• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Giesemann Pulzar HO and BT Interface Review

Chris Jackson

Member
Joined
23 Apr 2014
Messages
680
Location
Falmouth, Cornwall
HI All,

I've replaced my ADA Aquasky 602 with a pair of 470mm Giesemann Pulzar HO Led units and accompanying Tezla BT Bluetooth controller.

I'm very happy with the result but in truth all has not gone as smoothly as I'd wish.

So why switch? Well the Aquasky delivers a lot of light packaged in a very elegant unit but two things bug me with it. Firstly I do not like the high light bleed into the room and well down the back of the tank. Secondly I'd really like more control over the light output.

DSCF6115.jpg

Here you see the band of light that the Aquasky sends down behind the tank. Less of an issue if your tank is not so close to a wall but mine is.

And with the Pulzars on the standard tank brackets the effect is gone...

DSCF6117.jpg


Add in a single adhesive flexi LED strip as background lighting and you get a pleasing effect..

DSCF6166.jpg


DSCF6681.jpg


As far as colour rendition is concerned I feel the Pulzar's in standard spec produce a light output that is a little more pleasing closer to the T5's I'm used to. The Aquasky always reminded me of the Giesemann HQI halide lights that I have in another fitting that seem just a light too "bright white" and wash out the plant colours a little. The various T5's I've used have produced a more pleasing spectrum than either the HQI's or ADA LED's but this is of course subjective and as far as plant growth is concerned, everything grows like mad under any of them.

The major attraction than had me choose the Pulzars is the BT Interface that allows for programmed light cycles in terms of both time and intensity. My whole intent with setting up this tank was to create an ideal setup whereby the only limitation was my skill and imagination as far as aquascaping was concerned. There should be no compromise in terms of equipment hence the initial ADA tank and light purchases. The Pulsars and BT interface take this a step further.

The BT Interface provides a Daycycle, a Lunar Cycle and a Colour Mixer. The day cycle is as the name suggests and allows full control of lights on/off time and intensity and is actually very easy to use once you've worked out how to find English instructions relevant to the software. This was one of my frustrations. Whilst the software can be downloaded from either the Giesemann UK or German websites in PC/Mac or Android versions but to actually get guidance on using it requires you to read the Futura manual and adapt those instructions to fit as best you can and it takes a bit of thinking. The are no instructions for the BT Interface per se and the only instructions for the Pulzars are in German... Not what I'd expect for a £200.00 price point. Added to that the mains power supply for the BT Interface arrives as a 2 pin German unit and requires a suitable UK mains adapter which was not included. Again not what I'd expect for £200.00.

However once you've jumped through these hoops you do end up with a highly flexible package that allows you to have your tank illuminated for many more hours per day without irradiating your plants or creating an algae farm.

I've had the lights for around 3 weeks now and originally I was running a fairly low output schedule as I was going to be away for a week and wanted everything easy in my absence..

BT%20Interface%201.jpg


I've been running this new higher intensity schedule for over a week now and all is growing is very well with no algae issues.

BT%20Interface%202.jpg


There is a colour mixer that allows you to customise the light output across three channels misnamed as White, Royal Blue and Marine Blue. Apparently the the blend as is mimics Giesemann's Midday T5 but what theor "Midday" tube is isn't clear because, according to their website, they produce Tropic and Super Flora tubes not "Midday" tubes. Playing around with mixing the colours hasn't produced anything preferable for me so far. I was hoping that there would be a Kelvin slider type of control as the unit is quoted as producing a 4600- 8500 Kelvin output but quite what the standard output is isn't clear but I suspect it is close to the 6500K Tropic tube.

The other feature is the Lunar Cycle mode that produces a low output Moonlight feature according to what ever timing you set that also follows the actually Lunar cycle once you program in when the full moon is. A bit gimmicky perhaps but it is a nice way of having your tank decorating the place all through the evening. I'm running it at a very low level and switching off at midnight. The plants close up for the night as usual and the fish go quiet and are less disturbed by room lights going on and off and you can also see the shrimp keeping busy. I like!

DSCF6183.jpg


Ok, finally a few issues...

I ordered through Charterhouse at a quoted 15 day delivery time... I lost count of how many weeks I waited but it was around 8 before the wrong marine versions turned up...finally nearly three weeks later the correct lights arrived but one was faulty with only one LED board working..that was quickly replaced direct from Germany within a week but with no advice of delivery so it was fortunate I was in.

IMG_2876.JPG


Charterhouse have been very helpful throughout but it has all been very slow and tiresome and for a premium product I really don't think the information and documentation is adequate at all.

Having raised my concerns directly with Giesemann Germany via their web site I was contacted by Simon the MD at Reef Eden (The UK importer) about my concerns. He said I should have got a UK mains adapter (but didn't actually offer to send me one..) and that he actually does all the German to English translations for Giesemann but that they are in the process of standardising the controller software across light units so that only one set of instructions is needed but of course this hasn't been done yet...

So that is probably enough from me now but I'll do my best to answer any questions..
 
Hi Chris

any information about the PAR readings of the Giesemann Pulsar units? I wonder if one of them in a 60 cm tank would deliver something similar to the Aquasky 601 (PAR reading around 120-140 micromol at the substrate)... looks nice and much cheaper. Unless you have the Tezla controller I guess the unit is not dimmeable, isn't it?
(nice tank!)

Jordi
 
Hi Jordi,

No PAR readings I'm afraid but I'm confident the output from a single Pulzar is pretty similar to a 601 and certainly enough for most things I'd have thought. The Pulzar's Meanwell drivers are clearly ok for dimming and output 24v but using a non Giesemann dimmer will invalidate any warranty. I'm sure the dimmer discussed here http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/led-dimmer-solution-but.35341/ will work fine but it's a risks you'll be taking. The Tezla controller is a lot of dosh for what you get but the flexibility is brilliant, having this level of control is superb and I wouldn't want to go back to just a dimmer. I'd save for one of them if you can..
 
interesting leds used , quite odd no par readings from giesemann website
 
interesting leds used , quite odd no par readings from giesemann website
For lighting units I've looked at, this is pretty standard - not sure if it's a form of copy protection (not there is any effective copy protection unless one has the $$$$$ to go after infringements), some of the companies will send out a technical data sheet to distributors/retailers
 
I was contacted by Simon the MD at Reef Eden (The UK importer) about my concerns. He said I should have got a UK mains adapter (but didn't actually offer to send me one..)
and you didn't request one stat!!! :wideyed:

Thanks for the review :clap:
 
and you didn't request one stat!!!

Ha...shows how disinterested I am in stats eh!

I was pretty certain that two units will provide all the light I could wish for and I have confidence in Giesemann then with the Tezla interface I have all the control I need so the plants will tell me the rest... They seem very happy so far...
 
Hi all, I thought you might be interested in this explanation re the provision of PAR values from Giesmann UK that I received today. It's good to know they're taking an interest.


I just wanted to send you an email after spotting your review on UKAPS for the Giesemann Pulzar light units to say thank you for such an honest review.

I have passed on a few points to Giesemann regarding some of the niggles you encountered which we view as very valid and important feedback.

To add one point raised in the discussion regarding PAR levels, Giesemann as a general rule on 120 degree output LED units don't publicise PAR maps as inherently these units deliver there energy distribution across a much wider area compared to lensed units that focus light within a confined area. This often leads to very large differences in intensity readings at any given distance and misleading comparisons between lensed and un-lensed LED systems when measured under the standard free space test procedures (without the benefits of the aquarium body and reflective properties of the aquarium side panes). This often leads to readings up to 60% lower on free space tests than readings gained under real world application where the light units with wide angle output are typically mounted much closer to the aquarium surface using the aquarium side walls to capture and rebound light back into the aquarium that would normally be unregistered on a free space test where a large portion of light typically overspills the test area if the light unit is mounted at comparable distances to lensed units.

As every aquarium situation is different, it becomes incredibly difficult to offer accurate PAR maps for each and every product and combination that Giesemann offer without the danger of misleading customers into believing they will acquire a given concentration of light from any light unit under all situations.

I hope this explanation offers some insight as to the reasons why we generally don't publicise PAR maps.

Id like to wish you continuous success with the units and welcome additional longer term feedback which you may be willing to supply.

Kind Regards,

Simon
 
Hi.
I would like to know what schedule of light are you using now, and the results now that time has passed.
Regards,
Luís
 
Aha well I've been running this for sometime now

BT%20Interface%202.jpg


All is well with everything growing strongly but I wouldn't class the output as intense and it's certainly less full on than the Aquasky. Junius Repens and Rotala Rotundifolia show plenty of pink at the tips but my Rotala Wallichi isn't shifting to the fine wispy pink form under the current regime at least. In summary I'd think one would have to class a single unit as low light.


DSCF6827.jpg
 
Aha well I've been running this for sometime now

BT%20Interface%202.jpg


All is well with everything growing strongly but I wouldn't class the output as intense and it's certainly less full on than the Aquasky. Junius Repens and Rotala Rotundifolia show plenty of pink at the tips but my Rotala Wallichi isn't shifting to the fine wispy pink form under the current regime at least. In summary I'd think one would have to class a single unit as low light.


DSCF6827.jpg
I'm asking this because i have an zetlight system and i'm trying to learn what are the best way to configure intensisty of light during the day instead of having 6/8h of constant light.
 
I'm asking this because i have an zetlight system and i'm trying to learn what are the best way to configure intensisty of light during the day instead of having 6/8h of constant light.

Well the way I look at it in the tropics there are around 12 hours of daylight of varying intensity depending on time, season and cloud cover so replicate something like that as best you can and see how it goes!
 
Hi!

I'm wondering how many of these you think I need for a 60x40x35 co2 pressured tank? One or two?

Thanks!
 
One will certainly give you enough light

Ok! Thanks! I'm also planing on making some kind of lampshade fore the unit. I think you have talked about making on for yours? Are they building up a lot of heat so I have to take that in aspect when hiding the LED?
 
Ok! Thanks! I'm also planing on making some kind of lampshade fore the unit. I think you have talked about making on for yours? Are they building up a lot of heat so I have to take that in aspect when hiding the LED?

I'm not running mine at anywhere full power now so heat build up is minimal but I think you should certainly plan for ventilation or heat dissipation in your lamp shade design to be safe.
 
Back
Top