• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Glutaraldehyde!

Oh right, did not know that! Will do that now it's more affordable. :)
 
Alastair said:
With excel you do similar, adding more after water change than you would on non water change day.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Often wondered why this is as thought liquid carbons only had a half life of 12 hours anyway??
 
I would have thought Easy Carbo and Excel are just diluted with Distilled Water but maybe there is something else in the bottle?
Hopefully it's just water movement and oygen that causes it to break down in the Aquarium. :?

Questions, questions!

Shame we can't ask the guys who pioneered the DIY approach to Glutaraldehyde.
 
Often wondered why this is as thought liquid carbons only had a half life of 12 hours anyway??
Click to expand...

I was under the impression that on water change day lots of co2 was brought in via the tap water which is supposed to have higher concentrations. :? Maybe it's the disturbance of the actual change that drives off a lot of co2.

I intend to mix mine with deionised water, I get it in litre bottle from morrisons for about 90p. One of the other posters earlier in the thread did comment that they were told tap water was ok or possibly boiled and cooled. Not sure who the reagent guy is or where the information came from. I've based my assumption on using dei-ro water has nothing to react with the glute other than the h20 itself.

Mortis has done this for two and a half years with good results but doesn't mention I don't think what he dilutes his with. I'm at work at the moment so can't check an EC label but if it's 1.5% glute would it not say what the remaining 98.5% is on the label?

I came across this dosing calculator but it just confirms what we already knew.
 
The guys whole site has some decent calculators and information on. He advises dei or RO water and seems to know his stuff.
 
According to them an aqueous solution does not require stabilzers. As a disinfectant it becomes progressively less effective as it continuously interacts with bacterial cell walls.Its biocidal activity becomes progressively weaker and is neutralized in 7-14 days.
Click to expand...

Just quoting someone else but they give the impression that it reacting with bacteria degrades so as there's theoretically non in ro water should be ok. Some other good information can also be found here
 
Just be careful guys. Any water can be used.
Click to expand...

I have a bit of a theory on a safeish way of going about it I'll give a try to lessen contact time. If I can find a cap same as the bottle the glute comes in I'm going to drill a small hole in it enough to take a length of airline tubing that's long enough to reach the bottom of the bottle. When I make up a bottle put the cap on the glute and draw out the 8ml required with a syringe. Replace cap with original, wash the piped cap off in sink. All done outdoors with latex gloves on.

Every little helps I suppose :)

Second Thoughts might even leave that cap on the bottle and use an airline valve to close it of.
 
:lol: yep, it doesn't get a very good write up on all the health and safety data sheets. It's the worse type as well, just creeps up on you over the years rather than immediate effects. I have a fish tank over at an empty house waiting to be stripped down that I dose EC with. Normally in my house there's the smell of food that's been cooked etc and you don't really notice but at the empty house it's the first smell that hit's you when you walk through the door. Shows how much standard EC lingers in the air in an unventilated-ish room with no other smells.

Definitely wants dealt with outside.
 
I guess this is similar to buying off te shelf ferts vs EI salts, you're basically paying for water vs actual product.
I might look into this when mine runs out, I've still got a quarter of AE's version.
 
I may start doing some decay/dosing test soon as I have a Glut test kit.

For example, how long does 2% last in a high light aquarium?
A low light aquarium?

Canister vs wet/dry filtered tank?

Does 4% go down faster?

Can we dose say once every 4 hours during the light period if the 2% is gone in 3-4 hours?

If we remove the plants, what is the % drop in Glut from 2# vs time?

Samples can be frozen since this stops bacterial action and makes testing and processing the samples much easier.
 
plantbrain said:
I may start doing some decay/dosing test soon as I have a Glut test kit.

For example, how long does 2% last in a high light aquarium?
A low light aquarium?

Canister vs wet/dry filtered tank?

Does 4% go down faster?

Can we dose say once every 4 hours during the light period if the 2% is gone in 3-4 hours?

If we remove the plants, what is the % drop in Glut from 2# vs time?

Samples can be frozen since this stops bacterial action and makes testing and processing the samples much easier.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a pretty good idea; I for one would be very interested in your methodology and, needless to say, results.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top