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New tank lighting suggestions

Kogre

Member
Joined
14 Apr 2013
Messages
214
Location
Derby
Hi all,

I'm new to the concept of a planted tank and am looking to go high tech over the next couple of months. The length of my tank will be 68" with a width of 24". The tank I'll be purchasing comes with a hood and condensation covers but either no lighting or poor lighting. I'm going to opt with no lighting as I want to install something that will effectively grow carpet plants at a depth of 30".

I've been looking into lighting and have come to understand that it comes at various lengths. What would or could you recommend to me to purchase that would give me medium to high amount of light in a tank that has an estimated capacity of 198 US gallons, 164 Imperial gallons or 750 litres while getting good horizontal coverage due to the bespoke size? Can I screw the light units into the hood? Would it be better not to have the hood?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. ;)
 
have a look at the TMC grotiles with a aquaray controller.

the controller allows good management of the intensity which is the cause of much woe in high tech tanks...

The MMC mounting system means that you can screw into the hood or suspend over the top as you prefer.
 
I quite like that controller. I'm not so sure about the lights though, I couldn't find anything against TMC grotiles.

Will I need to buy ballasts? Are ballasts the what the bulbs go into? Sorry for the ignorance here.

Ideally I'd like to have either 4 or 8 bulbs in all. The Arcadia 35W 30" would be perfect size-wise, but I'd definitely need 8 of those. Even then the light wouldn't be bright enough, at a paltry 1.41wpg.
 
From what I've gathered, LEDs are more expensive but offer the best plant growth and have a relatively low wattage. They arebetter than most T5s as well if I remember rightly. Look for TMC grobeam and TMC LED tile and you might get some results. On a tank this size you may need several light units which, as I said, could get very expensive! Have a look at TMC's range and see what you think!:)
 
NanoJames many thanks, but that would blow the budget and prolong the time it'll take to get the tank setup due to financial constraints. I found a "buy one get one half price" deal I could take advantage of in the future if my lighting requirements are insufficient though. It may be something I look into in the long run.

Forgive my ignorance, but in order for me to get a more traditional t5 lighting up and running, as opposed to LED, I'd need tubes, ballasts and a controller that supports the number of ballasts I have? It sounds like an expensive and cumbersome amount of components if that's the case.

ceg4048, I'd be interested in your thoughts and input too, you tend to explain stuff with reasoning.

Do I need the full horizontal footprint of the tank lit or will a few inches off either end be something I can get away with if I get good reflectors (yet another component...)? Is it almost impossible for me to get the ideal 2+wpg?
 
It will grow more algae. Is that better?
Jeez guys:mad: , I was just stating the fact that I would much rather have an AquaGro over my nano than my Arc Pod. I presumed that because Kogre seemed a pretty intelligent guy that he would understand that there is a need for CO2 and extra nutrients! Kogre, sorry to have this on your thread and feel free to get a mod to delete it but with the size of the tank you would need more lighting than you might need over a 60cm tank That's all I was saying. I hope you guys agree with that. :)
 
Thanks, I don't mind at all NanoJames and appreciate your input. My tank will be a little on the obscure side size wise which is why I'm finding it difficult to find a good solution with little knowledge on the subject, hence asking people who know better; you guys.
 
Jeez guys:mad: , I was just stating the fact that I would much rather have an AquaGro over my nano than my Arc Pod. I presumed that because Kogre seemed a pretty intelligent guy that he would understand that there is a need for CO2 and extra nutrients! Kogre, sorry to have this on your thread and feel free to get a mod to delete it but with the size of the tank you would need more lighting than you might need over a 60cm tank That's all I was saying. I hope you guys agree with that. :)

The reason we are so militant is that the world has been programmed to think that more light is always better. Whenever giving advice to newcomers about lighting we should always preface our advice with the caution that higher light intensities generally are associated with higher risk of plant health problems. There are many intelligent people who do not know this, and who experience failure as a result, therefore, intelligence has nothing to do with the success of a planted tank. Knowledge is the key. The OP seems fixated on WPG, which, for his size tank is a completely meaningless parameter, and so it would have been better if you had clarified that point instead of extolling the virtues of one system versus another. This is critical because peoples lighting choices are THE major contributor to problems in the tank. We are much too quick to talk about what WE would prefer when we really need to consider the needs and the experience of the person asking the question.

The OP also mistakenly believes that in order to grow carpet plants he requires a lot of light. This is another popular fallacy that you ignored, and it would have been better to clarify this point, that carpet plants simply grow faster, with high lighting but they require better flow and distribution in order to flourish.

To give context in response to the OP's question, ANY light is good for plant growth and health. The OP did not mention what kind of lighting came with the tank. It has been assumed that the lighting that comes with the tank is poor. It would have been better for the OP to describe in detail what kind of lighting the tank has an option for. It may in fact be poor, but we still need to assess the configuration as it may be an easier matter to modify the stock lighting instead of performing a new installation from scratch. With this in mind, one has to then think about the other issues such as cost, ergonomics, installation and power consumption.

Traditional T5 or T8 lighting systems require only ballasts, fixture and tubes. No controllers are required. The ballasts can be mounted in the fixtures or they can be separated so as to reduce weight on the fixture. There are plenty of options as this technology is mature. In post #1 it was mentioned that a series of 30 inch Arcadia tubes was preferred. If the installation is not difficult then this is as good a solution as any. Each tube will require it's own ballast, which can be remote. That would remove the weight from the fixture. Alternatively, few, longer tubes can be used depending on the fixture or hood. It's just not clear regarding the choice of fixture.

Depending on budget, hanging fixtures can also be used. The advantage here is that the fixture can be raised to control the light intensity and spread as well as the choice to leave some bulbs off. Even a metal halide hanging fixture can be used, however they tend to be more expensive and power consuming.

The LED fixtures can be used and they do not require the use of a controller, however a controller allows you to reduce the intensity and this is much more important. When you buy an LED fixture you typically get the tile, which is composed of the cluster of bulbs, as well as the power supply. The controller is an extra cost. Again, if you can afford this combination, then NanoJames contention that this is "better" is valid in the sense that it is a cleaner, neater and more controllable lighting system, and that's why it should be considered better, not because it is brighter, because massive brightness is actually a disadvantage.

So hopefully, this gives you a better general perspective on lighting systems. Apart from all that, in my opinion, what you should be more concerned about in a CO2 injected 180 gallon tank, is what level of pump strength or filtration strength you will have and how you will dissolve and distribute CO2, because that will have a greater effect on the health of your plants than what kind of lighting you have.

Cheers,
 
All I was doing was putting my point into context, giving an example!o_O If that is not what this forum is for then I respect that, I just wasn't happy with the way I was told that I was wrong. I am learning as much as anybody else on this forum and the attitude I got could of quite easily put me right off!:( Luckily I don't let people get to me so I will continue to make my tank as good as it can be. Just consider that next time you make a mockery of someone. I hope you understand.
 
The OP did not mention what kind of lighting came with the tank. It has been assumed that the lighting that comes with the tank is poor. It would have been better for the OP to describe in detail what kind of lighting the tank has an option for.

I actually did in my first post.

Its a brand new tank that I've yet to order. The only lighting offered was 4x22W which was pretty cruddy for almost £200 even by my own ignorant levels of knowledge, so I will opt to go with no light at all and source light myself. I have a hood as a blank slate and am seeking advice.

I'm also very open to input. I can drop the wpg the Americans tend to post about so often and I have an open mind. I'm no expert, you guys are. Its why I'm here. :)

I'm ruling out hanging lighting as I simply cannot afford it.

Sorry the reason I didn't mention CO2, flow or filtration was because I know how anal forum mods can be about sticking to the subject matter of said forum, this being lighting.

I'm leaning towards two Fluval FX6 filters with pressurized CO2 injection into the inlet via an atomiser of at least one of the canisters pushed out to a spray bar. I'm looking towards AquaSoil and Eco-Complete substrate with fert tabs across two layers.

Nothing I'm planning is set in stone other than me getting a big assed tank at the moment, so thoughts, comments and critique are more than welcomed.

For the most part I've pretty much got a shopping list of everything but the lighting, hence the inquisition of opinion.

It's cool, NJ, I don't think ceg means offence, it seems to be his blunt style of explaining things, which I can appreciate. ;)
 
Just to add my tuppence worth to the topic. If it is price restricted and you intend to buy new, then it is normally more cost effective to go T8 or T5 and you will need the respective correct wattage ballasts to go with the choice of tube selected. When selecting a ballast unit, always try to select one that is IP67 compliant, this means that it will be waterproof not just splashproof. Ensure that all electric connections go through a Residual Circuit Breaker (RCB). If T8 there are very few IP67 compliant ballast units so the majority will have to be remotely positioned outwith the hood. If you go down the T5 route there are IP67 compliant electronic controllers that can be fitted within most hoods. One point I will add onto Ceg4048 comments is that you are only supposed to fit IP67 compliant ballast units within aquarium hoods if they are not IP67 complaint they must be remotely positioned from the hood as Cegs4048 states.:thumbup:
 
If you don't mind saying, what is your budget lighting wise? I'm a bit stumped for ideas but maybe someone else could help 9if they knew the rough price?:) Sorry about earlier. I didn't really like being treated like that, "Wrong wrong wrong" and "It will grow more algae. Is that better?". I hope that it won't continue and we can get get on with choosing some lights!:)
 
Cheers, Trog, very useful information.

Ideally I'm not looking to DIY anything, I'd prefer some kind of unit that was self contained and could hold 6-8 T5 tubes, or two units that could hold 3-4 tubes each.

I just want the tank covered appropriately and evenly from day one, more for personal preference and benefit (if any) to plants. A 68"x24" hood with four 22" tubes in the centre or corner of the hood isn't something that appeals to me, hence me asking about the footprint of the tubes being important.

As for my budget, I don't know what is a good amount to spend on lighting, but at a push could be willing to part with 400-500 quid if its really good. I quite liked the controller suggested earlier but am not sure of its compatibility with T5 tubes.
 
OK, well that's a good amount to think of, I'm sure you could light up your tank for that much!:lol: I still reckon that LED is your best bet as you could also bear in mind running costs. LEDs are going to be cheaper in the long run but most likely more expensive at the start! Your choice...
 
Kogre,
Size of tank and budget is about right for the above options mentioned in my last post. Lighting units or aquarium illuminaires for this size of tank will be in the region of £600 upwards. So you may want to think about doing it with the Fluorescent tubes and ballast units as this option tends to be very cost effective.:thumbup:
 
Cheers NJ, definitely something I'll read into tomorrow.

I've just read far too many mixed things about LED lighting systems which make me weary.

I already love this forum so much more than others. I'm glad I joined. :)
 
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