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Spray Bar Flow

The media trays both my filters are roughly half full, mostly Eheim substrat pro and matrix for biological, ceramic rings for mechanical, and of course the sponge pre filter. The top trays of both are topped with filter floss for last stage.
The Eheim 2217 is a good filter and is rated for tanks bigger than your 180. My brother ran the thermo version on a 5 foot tank housing adult Oscars and Tin Foil Barbs very successfully for years. The head height isn't that great, so something has to be slowing the flow. Have either the inlet or outlet hoses got even the slightest kink? This would severely affect the throughput.
The 2217 is the Classic 600 (one of the round canisters). I don't think there is a thermo version of this and there are no trays so the media is just piled in.

I was careful to avoid any kinks in the tubing and they are as short as they can be (allowing a little bit of movement for cleaning / adjustment). Will check for kinks when I am cleaning over the weekend.
 
I'd put a short spraybar on one side of the tank.

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Hi all,
It's easy to pack too much media in the Eheim classic canisters which could also slow the through flow. Is your filter tightly packed?
followed by the white pad.
I'd take the pad out and some of the mech media. They aren't very attractive but a sponge on the filter intake keeps debris out of the filter, and should improve flow. The Eheim pre-filter is horrible, but effective.
I know that I need surface agitation to make sure there is oxygen in the water but I know I don't want too much as this will get rid of the CO2 that the plants need (during the day anyway).
I think low tech that having more surface agitation actually increases CO2 levels during the photo-period, because you have more gas exchange. The steeper the gradient between atmospheric and dissolved gas levels the faster the rate of diffusion.

This means that as photosynthesis depletes the available CO2 it diffuses in from the atmosphere more quickly at the waters surface.

The solubility of CO2 is much higher than it is for oxygen, but it only makes up 400ppm of the atmosphere, compared to ~21% for O2.

It is difficult to measure dissolved gases, so a lot of "facts" are really just conjecture, we can use the diurnal variation in pH as a proxy for CO2/O2 (CO2 is an acid and oxygen a base). Somewhere there is a thread where "BigTom" measured pH through a diurnal cycle in a low tech tank with, and without, water movement.
I'd put a short spraybar on one side of the tank.
I'd probably do the same.

cheers Darrel
 
If you want a prefilter allpondsolutions do one that you put in line before your external. I've just fitted 1 to each intake tube on my eheim thermo filter as it will be easier to clean them every week than do battle with the eheim. It might drop your flow a bit though.

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Put your drop checker a couple of inches above your substrate level on your front glass,leave it there for a day.If you get a colour change this will tell you if your flow is enough to take co2 down to your carpet plants.
 
Hi all,I'd take the pad out and some of the mech media. They aren't very attractive but a sponge on the filter intake keeps debris out of the filter, and should improve flow. The Eheim pre-filter is horrible, but effective.
Did I not mention I have the Eheim pre-filter already installed :)
I put this in a week or so ago as I figured the amount of plant crap was going to start gunking up the filter sooner rather than later. I cleaned the sponges after a week and they were manky. Could the pre-filter be reducing the flow?
Do you the mean the blue mesh or white fine pad? I am looking to add a Purigen pouch in there when I clean and will take all the media out so can add back in what is necessary. How much media do you think should be in the filter (especially given some mechanical filtration is now being done by the pre-filter) ?

Put your drop checker a couple of inches above your substrate level on your front glass,leave it there for a day.If you get a colour change this will tell you if your flow is enough to take co2 down to your carpet plants.
I don't have a drop checker nor carpet plants :eek:
 
I was out getting a bit of fish food and noticed LFS had the Newa Wave 1.6 adjustable circulation pump reduced to £25 so figured I would pick one up.
Stuck it in the tank and this made quite a difference. I could see all sorts of bits drifting. In fact I added it in the middle of the largest amazon sword and the flow on the leaves actually uprooted it.

Video is still uploading but this shows the flow now with all the plants moving. This is after I shortened the spray bar to four bits (I thought I did three but turns out I can't count :oops:)
Will the fish be OK with this kind of flow? The corys actually started schooling which they had not really done before and seem to be unfazed by it, the dwarf rainbowfish just hid but I think will be OK with it but the black neon tetra worry me. There is quite a bit of flow into the back of the pump and I have seen the tetra getting here and then struggling to get out. It has also sucked all the amazon frogbit across the tank into the space above the pump.

This is on the lowest setting (800 l/h; it goes up to 1,600 l/h).

What is the flow like in other people's low tech tanks?
 
Flow from the spray bar looks decent now.
Your fish are loving the flow from the circulation pump!
Seems you've found a solution!
 
Flow from the spray bar looks decent now.
Your fish are loving the flow from the circulation pump!
Seems you've found a solution!
Except the dwarf rainbowfish who are cowering in the corner... given they are meant to come from flowing streams I hope they will get used to it.

Will show flow properly tomorrow when I am brave enough to open the filter :eek:
 
OK so today I
  • Cleaned filter media
  • Took out a couple of handfuls of substrat pro
  • Added a bag of Purigen
  • Replaced a little bit of tube between the filter and valve which had a little kink
Now I may have two much flow....

or with a longer bar


I have left it with the shorter bar at the moment but I have noticed some of the frogbit being squashed against the glass opposite the spray bar and being dragged a little under the water. Does this flow look better / too strong and I keep thinking about this from a physics perspective and wondering what is actually happening to the flow. Without the circulation pump I guess I am now getting the same flow as I drew up in the first post but I am potentially creating some kind of vortex by having the circulation pump pushing across this movement?

Also how much of each media do I really want? I have 1 litre of Ehfimech then a blue coarse sponge followed by about 3.3 litres of substrat pro (well I have 700 ml of media left and I think the media set comes with 4l) followed by a white fine pad and 100ml pouch of Purigen.
 
Hi all,
Could the pre-filter be reducing the flow? I put this in a week or so ago as I figured the amount of plant crap was going to start gunking up the filter sooner rather than later.
Yes it will, but it is much better to stop the plant leaves etc ending up in the filter.

It had never occurred to me that people would use their external filter as a syphon, in terms of biological filtration it is a recipe for disaster, unless you are extremely fastidious about cleaning the filter. The same applies to having both aerobic nitrification of ammonia and anaerobic denitrification (of NO3) in the same canister filter, it is possible but the likelihood of the whole filter becoming anaerobic should preclude it as an option.

Biological filtration and dissolved oxygen are different from nearly all factors in that they have to be right 100% of the time, and what people often don't realize is that they are implicitly linked. There is a misconception that you need a huge volume of filter media to achieve biological filtration, and that the Biohome, Siporax, Coco-pops (which are good media) you use has to have special properties, but it isn't actually true. What limits biological filtration, in nearly all circumstances, is dissolved oxygen. Basically if your oxygen supply exceeds your oxygen demand, you are sorted. Have a look at <"Plecoplanet: aeration and dissolved oxygen..">. I wrote it about 10 years ago specifically for Plec keepers, and it has had a few homes, but it is applicable to nearly all freshwater aquariums.
I have 1 litre of Ehfimech then a blue coarse sponge followed by about 3.3 litres of substrat pro (well I have 700 ml of media left and I think the media set comes with 4l) followed by a white fine pad and 100ml pouch of Purigen.
You don't need the mech media, or the fine white pad. When you have the pre-filter in place it is going to do your mechanical filtration.
Does this flow look better / too strong and I keep thinking about this from a physics perspective and wondering what is actually happening to the flow. Without the circulation pump I guess I am now getting the same flow as I drew up in the first post but I am potentially creating some kind of vortex by having the circulation pump pushing across this movement?
It looks fine, you ideally want laminar flow with the pumps facing in the same direction because that is the most efficient way of circulating the water, basically it increases the effective gas exchange surface area.
There is quite a bit of flow into the back of the pump and I have seen the tetra getting here and then struggling to get out. It has also sucked all the amazon frogbit across the tank into the space above the pump.
Your surface plants will end up in the area with lowest flow. I've never used this style of circulation pump, I've only used a powerhead and sponge, but I would have worries about fish being sucked in, hopefully some-one who uses them will be able to tell you that they are fish safe.

cheers Darrel
 
The spray bar flow looks much improved.
I would've removed the mechanical media instead of the biological though.

Regarding Darrel's comment about the circulation pump, as long as the fish can't get into the unit they'll be fine. They might take a while to get used to the extra flow but they'll thank you for it soon !
 
It had never occurred to me that people would use their external filter as a syphon, in terms of biological filtration it is a recipe for disaster, unless you are extremely fastidious about cleaning the filter. The same applies to having both aerobic nitrification of ammonia and anaerobic denitrification (of NO3) in the same canister filter, it is possible but the likelihood of the whole filter becoming anaerobic should preclude it as an option.
OK stupid Newbie question but.... isn't this how most setups are configured? I guess most people who come back from LFS with a tank probably end up with an internal filter doing just this and those that do get an external one with have it as their only filter :confused: I guess in an ideal world we would have some sort of wet & dry filter as well but is this just better rather then "a recipe for disaster" ?
Also how do you split the NH4 => NO2 and NO2=>NO3 processing? Is this by simply providing a bigger stronger colony that has access to oxygen to do the aerobic bit (meaning no food left to develop elsewhere) ???

The spray bar flow looks much improved.
I would've removed the mechanical media instead of the biological though.
That is what I meant to do but was an auto pilot so only thought about this whilst putting the pump head back on. Next time I clean the filter in six weeks or so I will remove the mech media and add the remaining substrat pro I have left over.
Regarding Darrel's comment about the circulation pump, as long as the fish can't get into the unit they'll be fine. They might take a while to get used to the extra flow but they'll thank you for it soon !
They do seem to be getting used to it and from what I can tell they know how and where to get out the flow but are actively choosing to be in it (the corys in particular but also the rainbows who seem to school when doing it and occasionally the tetras).

Will attempt some different configurations in a few weeks as the rainbows seem to get very scared everytime there is a change (and there have been a few recently) so will let them settle for while first.
 
Hi all,
OK stupid Newbie question but.... isn't this how most setups are configured? I guess most people who come back from LFS with a tank probably end up with an internal filter doing just this and those that do get an external one with have it as their only filter :confused:
I think you are right, if you don't have plants (and a substrate) you are entirely reliant on the filter bacteria/archaea for nitrification. There are then three potential methods for the removal of NO3-.
  • Chemical media, such as a specific anion exchange resin
  • Water changes with water lower in nitrates.
  • and anaerobic de-nitrification of NO3- and out-gassing N2 gas.
You obviously can keep, and breed fish, successfully using "microbe only" filtration, but it is a system with a single point of failure (the filter) and very little resilience.

In my experience successful fish keepers, who don't have planted tanks, often fail to fully appreciate how skilled they are.
I guess in an ideal world we would have some sort of wet & dry filter as well but is this just better rather then "a recipe for disaster" ?
Plants are the answer. There is a <"negative feedback loop">, where enhanced nitrogen levels lead to enhanced plant growth, which leads to lower nitrogen levels. An increase in ammonia in a "microbe only" filtration system is likely to lead to fish death and increased ammonia production, which leads de-oxygenation which leads to fish death etc.

If I didn't have plants I would definitely have a wet and dry trickle filter, and the "Rolls-Royce" of filters is a planted trickle filter. If you have plants, and specifically some with aerial portions, you have a system which is much more efficient and resilient. As a general rule "plant/microbe systems" are about an order of magnitude more efficient than "microbe only" systems.

There are number of reasons for this, one that people often fail to grasp is that plants are massively net oxygen producers, basically for every molecule of CO2 used in photosynthesis a molecule of oxygen (O2) is produced.

At light compensation point CO2 use and oxygen evolution is in balance, but during active photosynthesis plant growth is a measure of the carbon capture. At the end of the photo-period usually both tank water and internal plant tissues are saturated with oxygen and it is overwhelmingly this internal oxygen store that is used for plant respiration during the dark period.

In an <"emergent plant"> there is oxygen transfer to the substrate, which greatly increases the area of the zone where nitrification can occur.
Also how do you split the NH4 => NO2 and NO2=>NO3 processing? Is this by simply providing a bigger stronger colony that has access to oxygen to do the aerobic bit (meaning no food left to develop elsewhere) ???
You don't really need to, they are both aerobic processes. We now know that <"a much greater range of organisms"> convert ammonia to nitrite, but the energy transfer is still <"the same">, with oxygen consumed and bio-acidification (you've gained 4H+ ions) occurring.

equation2.jpg


A lot of the discussion in fish keeping circles is about "cycling" and ammonia and the idea that the nitrifying organisms will die if they don't receive a constant dose of ammonia, <"but it isn't really true">. Oxygen is the prime metric, which is why scientists use BOD (Biochemical Oxygen Demand) as their measure of organic pollution.

cheers Darrel
 
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OT but interesting :D
Hi all,I think you are right, if you don't have plants (and a substrate) you are entirely reliant on the filter bacteria/archaea for nitrification. There are then three potential methods for the removal of NO3-.
  • Chemical media, such as a specific anion exchange resin
  • Water changes with water lower in nitrates.
  • and anaerobic de-nitrification of NO3- and out-gassing N2 gas.
My chemistry always was pants but after researching the nitrogen cycle (documented as you say by fish keeping circles) I was thinking that the only real way of reducing Nitrates in a non-planted was through water changes.
Does this de-nitrification (which I believe is biological) actually happen normally (in any great volume) or is this something you need to setup? I have read about deep sand beds, but is there not too much oxygen in a standard filter to allow this to take place?

Plants are the answer. There is a <"negative feedback loop">, where enhanced nitrogen levels lead to enhanced plant growth, which leads to lower nitrogen levels. An increase in ammonia in a "microbe only" filtration system is likely to lead to fish death and increased ammonia production, which leads de-oxygenation which leads to fish death etc.
Is this not with the caveat of plants with the right balance of CO2, light and nutrients? My understanding is that in a low tech setup like mine, the plants will take up very little nitrate as this needs them to take in Carbon and metabolise? As I guess Carbon will be by far the limiting factor in my tank will the low level plants I have actually make any impact on Nitrates?
  • Amazon Swords
  • Lilaeopsis Brasiliensis
  • Crypt
  • Rotala Rotunifolia
  • Bacopa Caroliniana
  • Vallisneria
  • Anubias
  • Java Fern
  • Java Moss
I also added some Amazon Frogbit as the fish I have wanted some floating plants but I guess these have the possibility to process more Nitrates as they can take CO2 from the air but then these are probably limited by nutrients?
I put some root tabs under the swords a while ago and I have recently started dosing Flourish once a week if this will make any difference.

I mainly bought the live plants because I thought they looked nicer than fake ones and chose the ones I did because they would survive in a low tech setup. I am interested in what the impact might be in a setup like mine.
 
Hi all,
Does this de-nitrification (which I believe is biological) actually happen normally (in any great volume) or is this something you need to setup? I have read about deep sand beds, but is there not too much oxygen in a standard filter to allow this to take place?
It will occur in nearly all substrates to some degree. Usually only the top layer of the substrate, and the zone immediately around the root (the rhizosphere) will be fully aerobic, deeper in the sediment there will be a zone of fluctuating oxygenation, and after that anaerobic zones where reduction reactions will take place. Although these zones of fluctuating, and negative, REDOX potential will lead to the loss of fixed nitrogen, they will make other minerals (like iron (Fe)) available.
Is this not with the caveat of plants with the right balance of CO2, light and nutrients? My understanding is that in a low tech setup like mine, the plants will take up very little nitrate as this needs them to take in Carbon and metabolise? As I guess Carbon will be by far the limiting factor in my tank will the low level plants I have actually make any impact on Nitrates?
No, there really aren't any caveats.

Floating, or emergent plants vastly increase the ability to deal with bioload, because they have access to atmospheric levels (400ppm) of CO2, but submerged plants will still very effectively deplete NH4 and NO3. One reason for having floating plants is just that they are easier to harvest.
I mainly bought the live plants because I thought they looked nicer than fake ones and chose the ones I did because they would survive in a low tech setup. I am interested in what the impact might be in a setup like mine.
There is a <"huge amount of scientific literature"> on the efficiency of plant/microbe filtration, along with a <"growing body of evidence"> (based on RNA profiles) that microbial filtration is carried out by a much wider range of organisms than was traditionally thought, but very little of this has filtered through to the more traditional parts of the fish keeping community, where plants are often regarded as merely decoration, and endless hours are spent discussing ammonia and cycling.

I maybe cynical, but I think that certain parts of the fish keeping industry are very interested in keeping people in the dark about the key factors in successful fish keeping, possibly so that they can carry on selling them all sorts of "magic bullets".

cheers Darrel
 
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OK so back to flow...
I am reading into this that ideal flow might be front to back laminar flow creating the circular flow pattern above but across the whole tank.
In terms of current I ideally want all the plants swaying .

This sounds sensible in terms of distributing nutrients, heating etc but one thing that still confuses me is the actual circulation. I guess for this I would ideally have flow the length of the tank pushing all the detritus and water over to the intake meaning that it was not just the same water getting circulated. This however is contradictory to the laminar flow above....
 
OK tank has been running like this for a few weeks and the plants on the opposite end of the tank to the spray bar look a lot healthier (Java Ferns have spores and new leaves, vals look a lot healthier and the Anubias has grown after being fairly static since I had it so all good there.

The amazon swords near the spray bar actually look worse and I have noticed a build of up detritus under the spray bar at the back of the tank (I suspect this is lack of nutrients so I will put to root tabs under them tomorrow but they were a lot healthier for several weeks with just the spray bar and no flow pump.

I guess the flow will currently look like from the front
Slide5.PNG

and from the top
Slide6a.PNG

So this is creating turbulence and stopping the flow from the spray bar hitting the front glass, rolling across the substrate and back up the back glass.

I was wondering whether it would be worth looking at putting the spray bar on the same side as the inlet which could be across the side like
Front
Slide1.PNG

Top
Slide2.PNG

Or vertically in front of the intake
Front
Slide3.PNG

Top
Slide4.PNG


The vertical spray bar concerns me in terms of not providing any surface agitation and potentially turning the tank into a whirlpool but the horizontal spray bar would just be creating a vortex in the other plane?

The flow pump is doing a great job of moving stuff from the substrate towards the filter but the current flow setup means that when the filter / pump are on that food is sucked to the bottom really quickly so fish either get to eat from the surface or the substrate (seems to take less than a second for even slow sinking pellets to hit the floor). The pump also creates quite a lot of flow that some of the fish appear to like swimming in.

I currently have a spare powerhead (rated at 270 gph) some spare spray bar, the flow pump and some time tomorrow to experiment... One thought I had was removing the flow pump and attaching the extra spray bar to the powerhead across the back of the tank to give back to front laminar flow.

Any thoughts on whether I should just leave as is or attempt one of the options above?
 
Still not entirely happy with the flow as have found I am getting large build ups of gunk in the back right corner (near the inlet) which are a right pain to clean as there area a lot of root plants there and it is behind the large driftwood.

The flow from the Ehiem even with the shorter spray bar is still not as good as that posted by @ian_m (I know his filter has a larger rated flow and Eheim tend to overegg their figures anyway) but his flow seems to be nearly hitting the over side of his tank where as mine if only getting about half way across.

I was considering going back to the extended spray bar with lower flow and moving the flow pump to augment it (and add a second on the other side of the tank) so the actual flow would largely be generated by the powerheads and the filter just handling turnover.

The other option is to add a second 2217 on the other side but trying to avoid this if possible.
 
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