My canister goes as follows:
Bottom tray - course -medium - fine foam
Next tray course foam
Next - noodles
Top tray - course foam and finer foam at the top.
If this was your filter how would you configure it?
Well, same advice really, ditch the noodles - a vampyric invention designed to suck the life blood out of your filter, leaving it forever in a state of "undead."
I guess if you're a purist, the foam can follow the water path and be in the sequence of coarse to fine. If you use Purigen, or other chemical media like activated carbon (which works great by the way) then it should be the final filtration stage just so that it stays relatively clean. I think Fluval sells foam pads with a carbon layer also.
I really don't fret too much about filter media and sequencing, it's just not worth the energy. Whatever material you put in the filter will develop a bacterial colony - even if the packaging says something different. So noodles do plenty of biological filtration even though they are marketed as "mechanical filtration".
For our purposes it's all just another illusion of The Matrix. We want to maximize flow throughput, because in a CO2 injected tank flow is King. Everything else is a distant secondary concern. Plants quickly uptake NH3/NH4 as nutrition, so we really don't need all that specialty stuff. The higher the plant mass the more thoroughly the job is done - and they pump Oxygen back into the water and sediment, which supports a more efficient bacterial load, so who cares if someone is selling overpriced special magic media with a gazillion square meters of surface area? That has no advantage whatsoever. A fish only tank is a different story because there is no method of NH3/NH4 removal other than the filter media.
So hobbyists coming from a fish only background worry needlessly about the wrong things. Put lots of plants in the tank and do all the things that foster
their health. They, in turn, will make the tank healthier.
Also in my tank i have a 1 meter spray bar which is nearly the length of the tank, but either end looses out slightly, I have 2 power heads 1 is the nano 1600 and the other is the korila 3200 although I took this out because it seemed much for my tank.. Maybe I was wrong?
I currently have my nano powerhead on the left hand side pointing to the front (opposite side of intake)
Would you move this to the Centre?
Well, if the output of the powerheads are too strong and cause too much commotion then you can do the opposite of what I advised sonicnija to do regarding their placement. Placing them near the tank walls will neutralize their output somewhat. Another alternative with overpowered pumps is to orient the flow scheme from left/right i.e. across the tank because although the distance is longer, the muscle of the pumps will now carry the energy the longer distance. That means the spraybar can be shorter and thus it too will have a more even pressure across it's now shorter length. There are a couple of ways to skin the cat so just try different schemes and placements. Sure, you could just remove the nano and place the 3200 in the center. The only real rules here are that all effluent should work together and point in the same direction, AND always use the pH profile check to validate any new flow/distribution scheme.
Cheers,