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5ft Custom Heavily Planted Sumped Hi-Tech (450l)

jagillham

Member
Joined
6 May 2015
Messages
343
Location
Kent (UK)
New tank time! :woot:

We've just moved house, and I've finally room for a bigger tank. The previous one was 120 (long) x 60 (tall) x 50 (width), so around 360l, with ~40l sump. As it turns out houses are quite expensive these days, I'm very much on a budget for this build. Luckily I should be able to reuse most of the gear:

- 4x 54w T5's (With reflectors)
- 40l sump with Eheim Compact 3000lph return
- Two powerheads
- Two stage CO2 injection set up (5kg FE)
- Jebao Dosing pump (for the EI)

On the old tank I had a semi automated water change set up, which I'll replicate. The old thread on that is here if you are interested (https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/my-diy-automatic-water-changes.39586/)

So, new tank is 150cm x 55cm x 55cm. This will sit on my custom made cabinet / sideboard, which is about 2.5m long.

I've gone with local eBay seller Lush_Lola for the glasswork. The tank all in is £400 delivered, which includes some modifications to my own specification. Mainly the standpipe (back right) allowing me to drain the tank, and also a very low spray bar that comes in through the bottom of the tank itself to aid with flow. Overflow is BeanAnimal style, and front glass is Optiwhite.

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The base for the cupboard is 3x 800mm B&Q kitchen units. I chose these as I'm hoping having 6 narrow(ish) doors will make it look less like a kitchen side! The units are really quite chunky, and when all screwed together will be more than solid enough. Units were £33 each too, which is great value.

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I've done away with the normal kitchen unit feet too, and will have just a small gap to the floor, again to hopefully look less like a kitchen.

It's quite a beast once all stuck together...

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Next step is to source the top for the unit. I'm looking at Oak worktops, with ofcourse sufficient oil. I can also use this to make a lid too. I'm a little nervous about this, but it seems to work well for the AquaOak aquariums, so should be OK!
 
I would add some extra timber to increase the strength and spread the load, espically in the middle.

My tank (120 x55x60) is sat on a inch thick solid oak sideboard and I still had to reinforce it with some steel. As the doors wouldn't open with the tank half full.

I've also assembled a collection of kitchen units and broke one standing on it..
would I want 8 big guys standing on it, add a safety factor of 3 and you have a foot ball team.. ..Hell no.
 
Thanks @Barbara Turner - have you a picture of the tank?
My current one is a Seabray Dolphin (same dimensions as yours). That is only held up by an 18mm chipboard panel at each end, and a fairly small 2x4 prop in the middle...

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This new one is going to have to have 5x ~40mm supports directly underneath the tank, 7 if you include the far ends. Weight spread across the lot via a 38mm solid oak worktop.
 
Well that’s been a fun weekend...

Drilled the holes in the worktop. Last tank I did the holes too small, so really stuggled to do the connectors up. Went for 10cm diameter, managed to break my drill bit!

Fitted the tank connectors (all 5 of them!), and 4 of them leaked :(

Only a small slow drip, which seemed to be coming down the threads. No idea how, they were all screwed on tight. Ofcourse then they had to be removed, which meant trying to drain the last of the water out. Took the connector out to drain the last couple of cm, which then proceeded to wick back under the tank. Not a great mix with a solid wood worktop!

So we end up with the tank up in the air on wooden blocks, fans going full whack and trying to dry out the surface.

Anyway, round two today. This time still using the rubber washer, but with silicone in the thread, on the nut and all over the top of the connector. If this leaks, I’ll be getting the hammer out!

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Absolutely gutted - just brought my fish across. Lost all 5 torpedo barbs within the hour, 3"-4" ones too.

Arrggghhhhhhhhhh!!!!!
 
Lost all 5 torpedo barbs within the hour, 3"-4" ones too.
Not cycled :eek: No dechlorinator :eek:. Silicone with mould inhibitor :eek:

A tank like this will be at least 8 weeks to guarantee, no testing required, it is fully cycled. Plants and dirty will help, but patience is the best method.
 
Not cycled :eek: No dechlorinator :eek:. Silicone with mould inhibitor :eek:

A tank like this will be at least 8 weeks to guarantee, no testing required, it is fully cycled. Plants and dirty will help, but patience is the best method.

Not sure where you got this from?

Silicone is tank safe variant and filter coming across is a fully cycled 45l sump. Losses were within an hour or so, so it’s not an ammonia issue anyway.
 
Not sure where you got this from?

Silicone is tank safe variant and filter coming across is a fully cycled 45l sump. Losses were within an hour or so, so it’s not an ammonia issue anyway.
Dechlorinator. Some people are reporting they are seeing chloramine in their water in the hot weather.

I doubt silicone, years ago (maybe 30 odd) people used to use sanitary silicone to seal their tanks before special aquarium silicone came along and they seemed to keep fish alive.
 
I take the “tap safe” point. Although I used prime within the hour.

What I don’t get is why you saying about filter and incorrect silicone when neither apply to this build?!
 
Things have settled down a bit with the tank. Managed to make the sump leak along the way (not a massive surprise given I’ve replaced 2 of the sheets of glass on that already!).

Currently everything is sat in a plastic storage container, which seems to do the trick.

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Loads of flow along the front glass at a low level... maybe too much judging by the sand being shifted! May have to tone that down, or bring it up higher.

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Some plants have transferred between the tanks. Most the crypts melted being outside in plastic boxes for too long.

Ordered some more sand, next jobs are to fix the sump and start to do the hard scaping.
 
Made a start on the hardscape, and will be using the plastic girds used to protect grass. B&Q has ‘Blooma High-density polyethylene Grass stabilisation tiles’, which as luck would have it are not buoyant. I was able to just about cut them with a Stanley knife. I’m filling them with lava rock to use up some volume, then maybe fill rest with the sand. Not 100% sure, making this up as I go along!

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Should work... you could do another layer on top of that if you want more height. Just leave the front as one layer tall so you build up the slope!
 
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