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New flood light project commin up..

This is the difference
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Same amount of led beads but a bigger format.. The 25 Watt also is significantly stronger..

The bottom one is the malfuctionung 12 watt that flickers when connected to a dimmer. Also made a bit croocked, maybe it makes a bad contact because of this dunno.. Don't care i don't think its fixable.. The seller promised me a refund anyway..

:)

These Chinese definitely lack quality control hehe, but for the price you can't complain.

I had found these leds on Amazon, I am sure they are better quality but for the price, they might not be worthed, plus they are warm white...
 
All wired up and done so far.. :) Took a while gave the floodlights a paint job that needed to dry etc.
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To give a proper good fitting screw connection i soldered fork connectors to the wires
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My personal choice, some may not agree, but since the TC unit doesn't come with a ground i connected the whole without a ground. Simply i have no grounded sockets in my living room and all will be permanently fixed to the wall about 50cm above the tank. I made sure everything is properly insulated and connected (soldered). It doesn't get hot and personaly i do not see a problem. I've seen people use IKEA lights over tanks connected without a grounded plug and or even Eheim heatings in the the tank that don't have grounded plugs.. This seems to be common practice that never recieves a remark. Anyway, i don't recomend it, wiring without ground, but its the way i did it as a personal choice.

What i didn't like on the TC unit is the connectors don't come with a cover, since it is VAC 220 i made a cover myself. With a piece of 4mm thick acrylic that fits perfectly in the slot above the connectors. I guess the slot is made for that, but the unit simply doesn't come with a cover supplied. Anyway, unscrew the bracket, connect all wires, slide on the cover, screw the bracket back and done.a snugly fit that goes nowhere.
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For the programming and since i yet do not know what the intensity will bring me.. I set it up like this.
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created 5 modes, each is a 12 hour cycle, 100% 12 hours down to 60% 12 hours. I guess 60% is what i need the least.. Thus i can step it down per 10% if 10012 is a tad to much.. :)

The panic mode is 24-7 all 100%.. That if when what ever happens and i need light i have it any time of the day. :)

Snooze is a 5% moonlight effect after 20PM.. I can switch on when i like it.. Late hours still awake or having visit and like to show it off.. Why would i want moon light when i'm a sleep or not around? ;)

Now its time to hang it to the wall above tha tank and shine a light on it.. :thumbup:
 
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Love your work @zozo.

Curious to see how long these LED globes last!
 
Love your work @zozo.

Curious to see how long these LED globes last!

Me too, we shall see.. Stated is 50.000 hours.. But hey, at that price $ 7 a piece for the 25 watt i'm still happy if its ¼ of that. :) But till now very little leds i bought died prematurely. Mainly its the small build in drivers that give up first. But these don't seem to have build in drivers, its so far ik can see, a rectifier setup and a resistor.

Anyway.. For now this is the cheapest and easiest to install dimmable led light setup i'd ever build. Summary. For convenience changing $ into € :)

€ 43,99 - TC423
€ 13,98 - 2 x r7s cob units (2800 lumen each @ 100%)
€ 11,20 - 2 x old fashion FLood light hoods
€ 4 - cable
€0.40 - fork connectors

€ 73,57 total.

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Didn't include the paintjob into the price.. But hence this is optional..
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This is 4600 lumen extra on top of the day light.. :) Noticing the very same plants growing far better on the window sil right next to it. Than 150cm away from the window seems to make a big difference.. I felt like the plants can use an extra boost. Especialy when th dark winter period comes looking.

So far the build is a succes and completed.

Oh, btw the TC423 is obviously optional as well, it works equaly good on a ordinary dimmer and timer switch. Thus it can be a tad cheaper as well.

For further updates on it, to be continued in this Journal.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/where-the-jungle-meets-red-rock-creek.56867/page-6
 
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Nice job Zozo, I am myself on the drawing board for creating a new LED light system.. When I started off about 3 months ago, I just bought two 50w led flood lights for a Fluval Roma 200 which at the moment are doing a great job at growing my plants with Co2. Actually, I have to trim nearly twice a week now for my stem plants to keep them in order.

I am looking to build another light, something in the region like your's but I am in two minds regarding which one. Use the TC controller with 5 different colours on the channels and control the brightness of each channel (RGB) to make the desired results
, or an ESP32 with WLED software for Android. The only thing missing at the moment is being able to set each segment of the WRGB to what ever colour you wish in the software. I have been in contact with the developer and he states he will be introducing it in the coming months.

While the flood lights are nice and powerful for the bang for buck, I am missing out on the reds, greens, etc popping in my tank..Hence why I would like to venture down to creating my own WRGB high light fitting.

The led strips I was thinking for the project are these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32970484615.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.7cfb3c00vLabJw which the developer of the WLED application recommend.


EDIT: I forgot to add the Github page of the features
https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED

Any ideas or input would be great regarding the above.

PS.. I love the look of your project, even the walls of the house look real nostalgic

regards
 
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Nice job Zozo, I am myself on the drawing board for creating a new LED light system.. When I started off about 3 months ago, I just bought two 50w led flood lights for a Fluval Roma 200 which at the moment are doing a great job at growing my plants with Co2. Actually, I have to trim nearly twice a week now for my stem plants to keep them in order.

I am looking to build another light, something in the region like your's but I am in two minds regarding which one. Use the TC controller with 5 different colours on the channels and control the brightness of each channel (RGB) to make the desired results
, or an ESP32 with WLED software for Android. The only thing missing at the moment is being able to set each segment of the WRGB to what ever colour you wish in the software. I have been in contact with the developer and he states he will be introducing it in the coming months.

While the flood lights are nice and powerful for the bang for buck, I am missing out on the reds, greens, etc popping in my tank..Hence why I would like to venture down to creating my own WRGB high light fitting.

The led strips I was thinking for the project are these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32970484615.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.7cfb3c00vLabJw which the developer of the WLED application recommend.


EDIT: I forgot to add the Github page of the features
https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED

Any ideas or input would be great regarding the above.

PS.. I love the look of your project, even the walls of the house look real nostalgic

regards

Thank you.. :)

The only advice i can give you is steer away from the flexible strips that need to be glued.. In the end they will let go, especialy in moist invironments. Other thing is when they are rated IP67 they are most likely silicon coated and this will turn yellow over time at the cost of intensity. Personaly i would advice non coated Ridgid aluminium smd led strip that can be slided into a aluminium profile with a cover. This can be water proofed easily if needed.

For the rest when it comes to smd RGB strips is they lak a bit of intensity.. But obvously this also depends on the setup high or low tech.. And last time i played with RGB is over 4 years ago.. Since led industry evolves like a rocket with about 3 or 4 new different led types devloped per year.. I realy have no clue what's out there nowadays and how it performs.
 
Hi, thanks for your input !! It's always great to ask to see if anyone has been there / done that, before I go wasting my time in R&D

The IP67 version you state are a little different now. I do know the silicone version you refer to, I actually have these for under my kitchen cabinets, these I think are rated @ IP65 ? The version I am thinking of getting is covered via a plastic sheet that seems to offer a little bit of diffusing. As in regards to brightness, the SK6812 offer a cold white version of RGB which helps I gather as I do know the RGB on it's own doesn't offer that great of whiteness. I would be using a good amount of these lights probably around 10 meters of a big of WRGB and Cold white Leds.

Also regarding the strips and their adhesive, I could not agree more ! during my use of these for the last few years they have become unfixed etc... I have found these clips that might be of use ? what do you think ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32961027618.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.31be3c00CBO2EQ

Either way, thanks for your advice, I will stop bombing your thread here and start my own when I decide which route to go, I hope you see you there too !

Regards
 
Also regarding the strips and their adhesive, I could not agree more ! during my use of these for the last few years they have become unfixed etc... I have found these clips that might be of use ? what do you think ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32961027618.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.31be3c00CBO2EQ

Its a trail and error or succes, that's diy.... :) Give it a go.. Personaly i stand by the ridged strips.. Can also be mounted with these clips.. Anything flexible if in comes off it will hang in between the clips. Or you need to clip them every 3 cm or such..

I will stop bombing your thread here
Never mind.. :) That's what threads are for, ask related questions.. :thumbup:
 
Nice! Just needs some white cable covers, or a matching tall plant for the right hand side.
 
had a big read through this... getting my brother in law to have a look (he likes DIY jobs and electrics )

how do you think the 25w would work on plastic tubing?
 
how do you think the 25w would work on plastic tubing?

I have no idea where you are thinking off with plastic tubing. I geuss you're thinking of to inclose the led tubes in plastic tube?. The glass tube the led is in gets warm, i didn't measure any temps but pretty warm i can tell. Depending on the plastic? And as the name plastic implies as in plasticity, temperatur has a great infleunce on this. For example the temperatur for acrylic to become pliable is rather low at about 80°C than 60°C will already make it relatively soft. For hard PVC it will be in about the same range.

So i guess as long as you stay far enough away from the heat source for the plastic not to exceed its plasticity temperatur you are good to go.
 
I have no idea where you are thinking off with plastic tubing. I geuss you're thinking of to inclose the led tubes in plastic tube?. The glass tube the led is in gets warm, i didn't measure any temps but pretty warm i can tell. Depending on the plastic? And as the name plastic implies as in plasticity, temperatur has a great infleunce on this. For example the temperatur for acrylic to become pliable is rather low at about 80°C than 60°C will already make it relatively soft. For hard PVC it will be in about the same range.

So i guess as long as you stay far enough away from the heat source for the plastic not to exceed its plasticity temperatur you are good to go.


so my problem is how to use this method in my hood..

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i have 4 hooks where the lights sit and i was thinking some tubing to sit these lights in... cut out the area below the light to allow it to shine down... but the tube would sit across the tank, cables in the tubing to link them up.

am i making any sense?

i could try to use metal clips to raise it off the plastic? can you get glass tubing?

i cant think of a way to do lights other than method already used...
 
Good luck, that's a nice challange.. I yet never builded something for a hooded tank other than with IP68 smd led strips.

With the use of r7s cob led replacment tubes you still would need a pair of lamp base fittings per tube that need to be accessible.
Not so sure this is the best option for a hooded aqaurium.. But honestly i don't know, i don't have one to brainstorm about.. :)
 
Good luck, that's a nice challange.. I yet never builded something for a hooded tank other than with IP68 smd led strips.

With the use of r7s cob led replacment tubes you still would need a pair of lamp base fittings per tube that need to be accessible.
Not so sure this is the best option for a hooded aqaurium.. But honestly i don't know, i don't have one to brainstorm about.. :)

what are your thoughts for a hood? i could just buy a dual connection and T5 tubing.....
 
Hi zozo, can I ask what the large house plant in your last picture is please?
 
I would go with something like this if its for low tech.

www.aliexpress.com/item/32949546551.html

Cover is your preference.. And you need to waterproof them with some silicone..

It's DC 12 volt constant voltage PSU.. 36 leds p/50cm x >62 lum p/l x 36 = 2232 lumen minimal per 50 cm strip @ 11 watt.

Cheap and easy to install.. :) And dimmable via PWM.
 
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