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3rd Time Lucky 45p

It really depends. If you did a 10% WC, sure it can be. If you did a 90% WC it shouldnt be.
How much water did you change? How long after did you make the pic?
 
Set lights to following

30% - 12.00
50% - 12.30
80% - 13.00
50% - 18.00
30% - 18.30
0% - 19.00 there after.

You still want to set a 0% at 12:00 - if you’re wanting darkness overnight
(at present you’re still asking the controller to run some sort of ramp from 0% at 19:00 to 30% at 12:00, depending on the controller it may interpret this in different ways)
 
You still want to set a 0% at 12:00 - if you’re wanting darkness overnight
(at present you’re still asking the controller to run some sort of ramp from 0% at 19:00 to 30% at 12:00, depending on the controller it may interpret this in different ways)
I have now done away with controller and just have lights on a times to come on at 12 till 18.00.

I did around 70 percent water change then pit new solution in drop checker around 9 last night its from co2 art then took that pichure this morning.

Its much lighter colour than my last bottle of solution hopefully light green / yellow at lights on today

Thanks dean

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My drop checker was yellow today but i will check tomorrow what colour it is on lights on.

Should i remove leaves i snapped end off

Dean
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Quick update, been doing water changes and cleaning the gladd and rocks but the wood is really annoying as cant get in to clean the tank.

I have debated stripping and replanting after a rescape as not entirely happy with this as was nice when had sand but then had to adjust to add soil but would be a lot of work and want plants to start growing then can rescape in future. I think looks to plain without the wood at the minute but i may cut the wood and try join together so can easily be removed and then put back in. I planted under the wood and wood pulls up plants etc when I remove so need to do something.

Plants are pearling so very happy as never ever had that and looks great. Havnt done a filter clean yet or a diffuser clean any idea when i should do this ?

Should i remove the stem were leaves are snapped and i am seeing some defficencys like patchy leaves .

Thanks dean
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Had a bit or a change and added a rock to right hand side so easier for the wood to be placed and not squashing the plants so much happier and also trimmed the wood so much happier with it.

Removed snapped leaves as far down as i could, also not getting co2 to the rear right so putting on 3 hours early tomorro and also ordered jet lilly pipe and some more buce and bonsai.

Hope you like it.
Dean
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Hi all, Do the new leaves (on the Rotala) look a bit yellow and pale in real life as well as on the photo?

If <"it does">? You may need to try and a different chelator for iron.

cheers Darrel
You think start dosing my tropica specialised ferts ? Yes they are pale in person.

What you think on the rest you think looks ok and must be good that plants are perling .

Like i say i have ordered a het flow for better flow to hopefully get to all corners of the tank.

Thanks dean

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Hi all,
You think start dosing my tropica specialised ferts ?
You could give it a go and see what happens.
Yes they are pale in person.
It is likely to be an iron (Fe) deficiency, mainly because this causes yellowing of the new foliage. This happens because iron isn't mobile within the plant, so the plant can't move iron to the new leaves.

If you have hard water? iron deficiency is more likely, nearly all iron compounds are insoluble and and you need to use a chelator that still works at <"higher pH levels">.

One thing to bear in mind is that you won't get an instant response from the plants if they are iron deficient, it is only new leaves, that grow after iron becomes available again, that will be green.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all, You could give it a go and see what happens. It is likely to be an iron (Fe) deficiency, mainly because this causes yellowing of the new foliage. This happens because iron isn't mobile within the plant, so the plant can't move iron to the new leaves.

If you have hard water? iron deficiency is more likely, nearly all iron compounds are insoluble and and you need to use a chelator that still works at <"higher pH levels">.

One thing to bear in mind is that you won't get an instant response from the plants if they are iron deficient, it is only new leaves, that grow after iron becomes available again, that will be green.

cheers Darrel

Thanks darrel i will give a go at starting to dose my tropica specialised and see if new growth improves, also my water is hard i am pretty sure. Or i could try flourish iron ?

What exactly do you mean by chelator ? Something to bond the iron

Sorry if its a daft question

Thanks dean

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Hi all,
i will give a go at starting to dose my tropica specialised and see if new growth improves
Have a look at <"Slightly sad floating......"> for some details of what to look for as your plants perk up.
Sorry if its a daft question
No, it isn't a daft question, it is all to do with
  • how soluble compounds are, and
  • how easily ions form insoluble compounds, which will then precipitate out of solution.
All plants, including terrestrial ones, can only take up nutrients as ions from solution.

The problem with iron (Fe) is that most of its compounds are insoluble and if you have an aerobic, calcareous solution (your tank water) all the ferric iron (Fe+++) ions will form insoluble compounds. Have a look at <"Iron phosphate"> for some more details.

Its different for other nutrients, the salts of some nutrients are always soluble. If you have a salt like potassium nitrate (KNO3), it is very soluble and you get a 1:1 ratio of potassium ions (K+) and nitrate (NO3-) when it is dissolved in solution.

Because all potassium and nitrate compounds are soluble, it doesn't matter what other ions are in solution, you will never get a potassium or nitrate containing compound precipitate out of solution.
What exactly do you mean by chelator ? Something to bond the iron
Yes, a chelator is a compound (usually an organic acid) which holds onto an iron ion (Fe+++). That Fe+++ ion only becomes available when the chelator is degraded.
Or i could try flourish iron ?
You could try, but it probably isn't going to work very well in hard water. Have a look for <"ferrous gluconate">, it talks a bit about "Flourish", pH and chelators. Also have a look at the <"FeEDDHA"> thread for some of the chemistry.

cheers Darrel
 
Cheers for all that darrel i had a quick read in work at dinner time, i have been dosing 1 squirt a day of tropica specialised and will see how it goes , getting some algae on wood as seen in pictures, i clean off when do water change but hate having to take wood out as seems to take ages to get back in same position.pics of algae below also dosing 6ml of liquid carbon daily.

Here is a quick update picture also added another bucephalandra and some more stems growth is slower than i thought but i think looking good but still some deficiencys in plants on rear right hopefully the new lilly pipe will help once fitted.

Also need to level the substrate at front of glass wish i just put substrate in first but i wanted sand origionally not to worry.

Any comments welcome.
Dean
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Its nice but the wood is kinda blocking the plants at the back you need a diff position for the wood I can only think of shifting it more to the back so yr shorter plants will be in front of the wood
 
I know what you mean its currently resting on the tocks once plants grow a bit i will put further back so cant see the ends of the wood.inlt trouble is i didnt have much planting space at rear right so dont want wood there but hopefully i can once plants grow a bit.

Also added a new lilly pipe today and flow is much better around the tank and getting movement at the rear right now.

Any idea on the algae and will shrimp get rid of this as thinking of adding some soon.

Thanks dean
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I know what you mean its currently resting on the tocks once plants grow a bit i will put further back so cant see the ends of the wood.inlt trouble is i didnt have much planting space at rear right so dont want wood there but hopefully i can once plants grow a bit.

Also added a new lilly pipe today and flow is much better around the tank and getting movement at the rear right now.

Any idea on the algae and will shrimp get rid of this as thinking of adding some soon.

Thanks dean
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Shrimp generally only eat green algae unless theyre really hungry.Heard nerite snails at a rate of 1 per 10 gallon works too!Otherwise could consider otos they are small and peaceful.
 
Also added a new lilly pipe today and flow is much better around the tank and getting movement at the rear right now.

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Tank is coming on well Dean

Where are the new lily pipes from? I’m looking for something similar for my 45P. But having trouble finding anything that is not too big.
 
Tank is coming on well Dean

Where are the new lily pipes from? I’m looking for something similar for my 45P. But having trouble finding anything that is not too big.
Thanks patrick the lilly pipes are from aquarium gardens nano inlet and outlet blau ones they look great as i was in the same boat.

And thanks for that i may get some ottos soon think i will het shimp first how long you recomend waiting for cherries? And do nitrite snails lay eggs everywere ? If they didnt i may get snail aswel

Thanks dean

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Thanks patrick the lilly pipes are from aquarium gardens nano inlet and outlet blau ones they look great as i was in the same boat.

And thanks for that i may get some ottos soon think i will het shimp first how long you recomend waiting for cherries? And do nitrite snails lay eggs everywere ? If they didnt i may get snail aswel

Thanks dean

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Female nerites will lay unsightly eggs.Could consider assassin snails.If yr ammonia and nitrite is zero time to plop in some shrimps :)
 
Female nerites will lay unsightly eggs.Could consider assassin snails.If yr ammonia and nitrite is zero time to plop in some shrimps :)
Not sure what levels of ammonia etc are as no test kit i just planned on leaving tank for a while, back at work for 4 days now so will wait until next week bedore adding any shimp then will take a trip to dobbies and hopefully they have some decent shrimp.

How many you think to add at once ?

Also a few signs of algae but i havnt done a filter clean yet so will do one when off and continue water changes ever other day until then any ideas what algae it is ? I am hoping a clean up crew of ottos and shrimp will clean it up and a small shoul of tetras and that will be it i imagine.

Lastly the drop checker is always light green at lights on as i switch on 3.5 hours before lights on however the drop checker then seems to get lighter until nearly yellow by time co2 goes off wonder if i should try putting co2 on just 2.5 hours before to see of helps just hope isnt to dark green at lights on. I will have a play next week.

Thanks dean
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Not sure what levels of ammonia etc are as no test kit i just planned on leaving tank for a while, back at work for 4 days now so will wait until next week bedore adding any shimp then will take a trip to dobbies and hopefully they have some decent shrimp.

How many you think to add at once ?

Also a few signs of algae but i havnt done a filter clean yet so will do one when off and continue water changes ever other day until then any ideas what algae it is ? I am hoping a clean up crew of ottos and shrimp will clean it up and a small shoul of tetras and that will be it i imagine.

Lastly the drop checker is always light green at lights on as i switch on 3.5 hours before lights on however the drop checker then seems to get lighter until nearly yellow by time co2 goes off wonder if i should try putting co2 on just 2.5 hours before to see of helps just hope isnt to dark green at lights on. I will have a play next week.

Thanks dean
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Too much co2 then.Your wood has white fungus that the shrimps will like.If ure afraid of killing them 5-10.If not 20 would be good.Looks like the beginnings of hair or thread algae. ;)
 
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