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Day 96:
Upgraded the canister filter from Fluval 106 to Oase Biomaster Thermo 250 šŸ˜ as the fluval was dying on me

Regime:
Lights: 30 mins of sunrise and sunset and 5 hours of lights configured @ 40% intensity of RGBW.
CO2: 2 hours before the lights come on (sunrise setting) and off 1 hour before the lights are off. Bubble rate approx. @3 bubble per second. Used a pH meter to check for a 1 point drop.
Fertilizer : 2ml of Aquaboost Compleat All-in-one fertilizer 3 times a week. 2 ml of Aquaboost Color & Strength fertilizer 3 times a week.
Water change : 50% every Sat/Sun.
Tank inhabitants: 7 Amano Shrimps, some Red Cherry Shrimps and yellow shrimps, 7 Cardinal Tetras and 4 Harlequin Rasboras.
Will increase the count of Cardinal Tetras to 10 and the Harlequins to 8 this week. Would love to add a centerpiece fish after a few weeks but not sure which one ?šŸ§

Tank picture:
IMG_20210807_200441.jpg


Plant performance:
Did some heavy trimming today of the monte carlo and hairgrass carpet. Also had to completely trim the AR mini as it seems the Amano shrimps just keep eating and destroying all its leaves. Christmass Moss keeps growing like crazy and needs frequent trimming.
The Ludwigia Repens Rubin doesn't really get red enough but rather brownish. Maybe needs more light intensity but not sure yet. Need to also measure nitrate values to check if that prevents it from getting red.
 
Would love to add a centerpiece fish after a few weeks but not sure which one ?

You want one that is suitable for the tank size and compatible with whatā€™s already in there, when centrepiece fish is bandied about itā€™s usually always means something inappropriate. Your tank isnā€™t really big enough for a larger bodied fish if this was your intention, certainly anything larger than a Honey Gourami or three would make the scale of fish v planting look odd.

Tank looks lovely, keep up with the good work youā€™ve put into it.

:)
 
You want one that is suitable for the tank size and compatible with whatā€™s already in there, when centrepiece fish is bandied about itā€™s usually always means something inappropriate. Your tank isnā€™t really big enough for a larger bodied fish if this was your intention, certainly anything larger than a Honey Gourami or three would make the scale of fish v planting look odd.

Tank looks lovely, keep up with the good work youā€™ve put into it.

:)
Honey Gourami would be my first choice as well or anything of that size or a bit smaller which is peaceful ;)
 
The Ludwigia Repens Rubin doesn't really get red enough but rather brownish. Maybe needs more light intensity but not sure yet. Need to also measure nitrate values to check if that prevents it from getting red.
Ludwigia species don't turn red from Nitrate limitation if that's what you mean, they only grow smaller. In my experience the only deciding factor when it comes to color is light intensity. The brighter the light the redder it grows. Lower light and it'll lean more towards green.
 
Day 105:

Lights: Increased the intensity of Red to 50% and kept WGB to 40% as before.
CO2: No change to schedule
Fertilizer : Increased from 2ml to 5ml of Aquaboost Compleat All-in-one fertilizer 3 times a week and 5ml of Aquaboost Color & Strength fertilizer 3 times a week.
Water change : 50% every Sat/Sun.
Tank inhabitants: Increased the count to a total of 8 Harlequin Rasboras and 11 Cardinal Tetras.
Plant performance: There seem to be signs of BBA on the Anubias, some parts of the Christmas moss and on some leaves of Staurogyne repens. Also the algae appears on the driftwood šŸ˜­.
I am not sure if this is because of switching to an Oase Biomaster 250 Thermo filter from my previous Fluval 107. I have used the spraybar as the outlet and maybe the flow is a bit too much of this filter considering my tank is just 57 litres.

IMG_20210816_162258__01.jpg


Also generally a leaf or two of my amazon frogbit floating plant turns yellowish in color. Maybe its an indication of something lacking.

IMG_20210815_182204.jpg


Will look at lowering the light intensity to 30% and also reducing the flow from spraybar outlet to see if that helps.
 
Hi @MMonis, have a look at the duckweed index. Amazon frogbit is perfect for this. I've only ever used DIY ferts so can't comment on the ones you are using but my guess would be you're lacking a nitrogen source. If you add some more nitrogen you should see results pretty quickly in the frogbit leaves.
 
Day 129:

Lights: Have some issues with BBA and so reduced the light intensity which is now set as Red to 45% and WGB to 35%. Lights on for 6 hours.
CO2: Had a sudden surge in CO2 accidentally due to increase in bps (no idea how :rolleyes:) and also lost 4 Harlequin Rasboras in the process šŸ˜­. Started a pH profile using a pH Tester and the data is as follows:
EventpH
Degassed (24 hr)7.8
14:30 CO2 On7.5
15:306.6
16:30 Lights On6.5
17:006.5
17:306.5
18:306.5
21:30 CO2 Off6.5
22:30 Lights Off6.7
23:307.0
Hoping that this is sufficient and close to optimized, which can help reducing/stopping BBA.
Flow of the tank is recorded in this video
Fertilizer : 5ml of Aquaboost Compleat All-in-one fertilizer 3 times a week and 5ml of Aquaboost Color & Strength fertilizer 3 times a week.
Water change : 50% every Sun.
Tank inhabitants: 4 Harlequin Rasboras, 11 Cardinal Tetras, Yellow and Red Cherry Shrimps and 7 Amano Shrimps
Plant performance: BBA still apears on parts of driftwood and on some Anubias leaves. The AR mini is being eaten by the Amano Shrimps, although I do feed them some cucumbers or squash every 4 days. Need to decide whether to give them away or keep them and ignore all the eaten AR minis ā˜¹ļø

Tank picture:
IMG_20210907_215532.jpg
 
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