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DIY Filter Schematic.

Stickleback

Member
Joined
12 Nov 2009
Messages
189
Location
Vietnam
Hi Guys

Just wondering if anyone would be interested in looking at my new filter schematic and giving some feedback or pointing out any potential problems. The problem I have is I feel my tank is under filtered.

I have a 300l tank next to my bed, but the cabinet is relatively low so no space for a Fluval FX5 or something similar. So I have decided to make my own filter as follows (please excuse my terrible handwriting):

2mc6p6w.jpg


The mechanical and biological filters are unpowered pond filters, filled with the relevant media.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 1770wt_941

The CO2 is an inline diffuser.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 4412wt_941

The litres per hour stated in the schematic is as rated, but will be reduced in reality because of the drag, by roughly a quarter I am led to believe?

The non return valve is to stop the main pump cycling water round the tubes when the secondary pump is switched off.

Here are the tank specifics.

300L - 260L after displacement.
Estimative Index + carbon + highish CO2
Unheated room temperature with British river fish.
A fairly normal selection of plants.

Any help would be really appreciated.

If you got down this far, thanks.

R
 
How about building a none bypassing filter? Mount the pump on the side and then imagine it like a giant prefilter. I'd do a diagram but macs suck and don't have ms paint ;)
 
It's really difficult to use though!!! It blacks out so you can't see what you're drawing. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the help guys.

I know I asked about my filter setup, but what I really wanted to know is where I can find some crappy broken web paint programs.

Cheers for the info :thumbdown: .

R
 
Sorry mate but I need a program to draw up a schematic for you. Your plan is correct and entirely suitable but I just have some finer details on the design to get best out put.
 
I wouldn't have a system like this that has lots of connections in it - it's too complicated IMO.

I would have two separate loops; one with the filtration systems and one that just has the CO2 unit on it. This way there won't be any issue with turning the CO2 side off overnight and there won't be water sitting in a mechanical filter that's not circulating. You will also reduce all the connections in the set up which are potential leak points.
 
I think you should stick with your current filter, but put a fluidizing reactor/fluid bed filter on the return side. This will provide you with an enormous surface area for colonizing bacteria. The filter is self contained and dosnt ever need to be cleaned as dead bacteria is removed from the sand by the tumbling action. The water is also clean in terms of detritus having just come from you external filter. I used this system on a heavily stocked discus tank and it was very good.
 
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