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Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit questio

magpie

Member
Joined
9 May 2010
Messages
174
Location
Ludlow, Shropshire
Dear all

My new tank has arrived at TGM.... picking it up tomorrow. 'Exciting' doesn't begin to describe it... (how sad am I?)

anyway, I still have some planning time left, because brother-in-law is making the cabinet a) because he made the rest of our furniture and it'll fit in with it and b) because he's convinced that the cabinets at TGM are so flimsy they'll break under the half tonne weight. I doubt that, but I'm not going to argue.

However - it means I have to decide about lighting - and about the interesting problem of evaporation. Tank dimensions are: 3'0" x 2'6" x 18" that is 90cm side to side, 75 cm front to back and 45 cm tall.(roughly 65 gallons US or 250ish litres)

which means huge evaporative surface area - apart from the obvious problems of water loss, this'll mean chucking bucketfulls of water into the atmosphere of our living room. I have visions of water running down the walls which won't go down well at all.

so I need to do something about it. TGM do a glass lid that rests on 8 metallic clips that clip onto the rim of the tank - but whereas I'm sure that works well with a foot cube nano tank, I don't want to wrestle with a 3' x 2'6" piece of glass every time I want to do a water change - or even feed the fish.

I'm not sure what the other options are:

justin could make me a lid - but it'd have to be fairly waterproof and presumably if we varnished it with any kind of waterproof varnish, the VOCs will kill the fish for the next decade or so. We could line the lid with plastic? (how?) or we could think of something else. I wondered if a flat acryclic sheet might work - set on top of the tank with an inch tolerance all the way round - I could slide it back when I need minimal access and lift it off - but I'm not sure what the refractive index is of acrylic and whether it would let the light through - does anyone know?

and that brings us to lights: I had considered the Arcadia I-Bars which hold 2 x 24W bulbs but a) they look ghastly and b) I'm not sure they'd give enough light - even two of them would only be 96 watts which is only 1.5 wpg which is fine if I go lo-tech, but not good if I want to go up. I could fit them into a lid (see problems of waterproofing above) or rest them under an acrylic balance-on sheet.

Arcadia lights are a second option - might be allowed to fit up a pendant light system - or rest them on the rim (if not going the acrylic route)

or LEDs - TGM have a LED frame which looks neat but is horribly expensive -- makes the substrates look cheap.

I'm going up tomorrow and can talk to them, but wondered if anyone had any ideas... those of you who're inside and at the computer on a day when it's 27C outside... Hell, I hate deadlines... :)
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

Just had a quick Google search and you could go in for some plastic condensation trays like the ones they use on clearseal tanks;
http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue/aquarium-hoods-trays.asp
(scroll down to condensation trays)

They look like this;
V01179.jpg

reminds me of the sort of plastic you get in propagation trays you get from garden centres

Being only plastic they should be light (so easy to move) and you can cut lumps out for lighting brackets etc. They also look hella cheap.

Just a quick idea, hope it may be helpful :lol: :thumbup:
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

Thank you - a good temporary solution if we get stuck... found the Hagen Glo lights too - hadn't known about them (the value of reading the tank journals) - might try them instead of the Luminaires - cheaper and can be turned into a pendant. Just don't look as good.
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

magpie said:
this'll mean chucking bucketfulls of water into the atmosphere of our living room. I have visions of water running down the walls which won't go down well at all.

unless the tank is in a conservatory, in winter, you'll be fine. You only get problems when the water hit's cold surfaces like glass. water loss in a room is good for us. just top up every other day.

buying an open top tank, then covering it defeats the object a little.
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

buying an open top tank, then covering it defeats the object a little.

Indeed, but have you seen the lids they make for commercial tanks? That said, I do like the aesthetics of open top tanks, just hadn't thought about the implications for evaporation until now. But it's an old cottage and damp hasn't been an issue yet, so we can try it and see.

So if this becomes a lighting question - it seems to me that unless I"m ready to go full-on hi-tech (not yet) then I want 1- 1.5 wpg (US) of light, which comes to 65 - 93 watts (ish). Which would do nicely with 4 x 24 watt tubes in the Arcadia Marine Luminaire. The Tropical one has 4 x 39 watts - which may be a tad OTT. Can I use a marine one with a tropical tank? Presumably the only difference is the wavelength of the bulb?

thank you all hugely

m
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

Hi Magpie

Evaporation was something that really worried me before I got my tank (100cms x 45cms x 55cms tall), as it sits in a room with a great big single-glazed bay window - and we prefer to keep the house pretty cool (wear a vest - you're dad knew a thing or two ;) ).

Evaporation is not a problem in summer, but in winter I have to run a squeegee over the panes first thing in the morning - no great problem. The walls aren't affected. I did consider getting a stonking great dehumidifier, but I think it would probably just draw more water out of the tank.

If I were you I'd definitely start off trying a cheap plastic condensation cover - until your system is up and running you won't know whether or not this is even a problem at all.

I've automated topping-up with a Tunze Osmolator - not cheap, but brilliantly effective, and one less thing to worry about.
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

I used to have an open top 6ft x 3ft x 2ft reef tank with a kilowatt of light over it... I used to have an extractor fan in the wall behind it for when the temperature rose but still used to have condensation issues on my double and single glazed windows in the lounge (double aspect)...

However, my current planted tank is 3ft x 2ft x 1.5 ft (so surface area is only six inches short of your tank front to back) and I have a 4 x 39W T5 Arcadia Luminaire, but with only two bulbs on 90% of the photo period... There is no extractor running and I have no condensation issues at all... The house is fairly open plan, though...

The one problem I do have is topping up the tank... I lose an inch to an inch and a half of water a week at least, so am constantly topping up the tank (but usually don't get around to it, so have the water level a few inches below where it should be)... Not only is this a hassle, but I wonder how much I am concentrating the tap water containments in the tank as the water evaporates and I keep topping up from the tap (my water is horrible)...

Next tank (which I'm planning at the minute) will be using a Tunze Osmolator (as per Paul above - I used to use one of these and its great), but topping up RO water to avoid the concentrating effects...
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

Thanks, both of you - my tap water is truly revolting too (am angling to move to a part of the country with nice tap water - but oddly enough, my beloved doesn't think that keeping fish more easily is a good enough reason to up sticks and move somewhere completely new... no sense of adventure :))

so - I'll do as you suggest and use either perspex or nothing - and start investigaing Osmolators and RO units - are you going to plumb in your RO unit? Is that complicated? (is it possible to run an RO unit that *isn't* plumbed in?)

so much to learn... last time I had a tank, it was all basic water chemistry. This is so much more fun.

thanks both/all

m
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

Hi,

Am a bit rusty on my RO, but they need to be plumber into the mains. As the fittings are push-fit, it can be removed for storage is need be.

I had (and intend to do the same this time) mine plumbed in with a solenoid on a timer so that it came on twice a day to fill up my top-up tank. The one problem I used to have was the TDS rocketing as the water came on, but I solved this by adding a flush kit in so that the first minute the water came on if flushed the membrane and went to waste.

I have always used http://www.ro-man.com/ for my spares and bits (wish I had known about them before I bought the actual unit). They have loads of bits and also a pretty good FAQ section to get you up to speed on RO systems...
 
Re: Evaporation prevention (and lighting) - idiot newbit que

Thank you! - bookmarked RO-man and looking at the faq as we speak. Scary stuff, but doubtless will cease to be so in time... I'm seriously considering a Lake Inle biotope tank just to make the best of the current water chemistry, but it's not what I really want, so it'll be RO in the long run.

thanks for your help

m
 
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