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RO water please advice - brown algea-diatoma ?

Re: RO water please advice ?

sWozzAres said:
...I don't understand when people talk about cause and triggers since it implies one thing. Light or silicon can "cause" or be the "trigger" if the diatoms are light or silicon limited, respectively...
Yes, I know, that's part of the problem, the confusion is based on a lack of understanding between causality and exacerbation.

Algae have two forms. They first exist as spores, which might be analogous seeds in higher plants. Here is an example of algae spores. Pictured below isn't diatomic algae, but is a green water type of algae (Haematococcus pluvialis). When in this state, algae sample the environment waiting for the combination of environmental parameters that are suitable for it's growth. In this form, the algae is invisible and innocuous. They lay on the substrate, on the surface of plants, wherever the currents take them. We're not sure exactly what combination of parameters they read, but we do know that light is a primary parameter. If the spectral energy exceeds some value it triggers a physiological change.
2744518480038170470S600x600Q85.jpg

Photo used by kind permission of Dennis Kunkel Microscopy.

This is the same species after the bloom. It is an entirely different form from the "seed" or spore. When the algae has bloomed into this form then all the available nutrients in the water are at it's disposal. Now the rules change. Now silicon, or Nitrogen or Phosphorous or whatever nutrition available is fair game. The more nutrients and light, the faster the growth, just as in higher plants.
2916442670038170470S600x600Q85.jpg

Photo used by kind permission of Dennis Kunkel Microscopy.

The idea therefore is to prevent the transformation from the first form to the other. This is what many are having difficulty understanding. When diatom algae are in the form in the first photo it does not matter what the silicon, aluminum or Phosphorous levels are if the lighting is below a threshold level. Furthermore, if the lighting exceeds the trigger threshold the algae will bloom even if the silicon level is low.

Conversely, silicate levels by itself will not cause the algae to go from the form shown in photo 1 to the form in photo 2. However, if the spectral energy levels are high enough then the transformation will occur. In a similar way a higher plant must have certain conditions met under which it will transform from seed to seedling.

All of the data discussed in the articles you kindly provided are based on working with the diatomic form shown in photo 2. They are working with diatoms that have already bloomed.

In the same way, the PO4 levels in the tank cannot by itself cause PO4 related algae to bloom. However, if an algae is triggered into blooming, then the algae in form number 2 will feed on whatever PO4 it can get it's hands on. The Catch-22 is this; Plants need more Phosphorous than algae need, so it's folly to try to remove PO4 from the tank because you will only be hurting your plants. Keep the algae that is in photo 1 from triggering into the form in photo 2 by keeping the lighting reasonable and your plants will be able to use the PO4, but the algal spores will not care what the PO4 levels are. This is how a high light tank is kept in balance, not by trying to rid the tank of elements that are desperately needed by the very organisms that you are trying to grow.

sWozzAres said:
I would also like to point out that the ratio of nutrients in an organism doesn't correlate to their requirement for those nutrients in that ratio.
Yes I completely agree with this. Ratios in this sense are generally meaningless.

Cheers,
 
Most diatoms go through a cell division phase where each successive generation divides to produce smaller offspring. Only when they reach some 30% of their initial size do they wait for a trigger to reproduce sexually. Triggers include not only light but nutrients, temperature and pH etc Depends. Just from an evolutionary point of view, it makes no sense to enter a reproductive phase if the environment won't fully support it.

As you know there are thousands of types of diatoms. It would really help to identify which ones we are talking about since all the studies that we can get hold of are specific to a particular diatom and the results don't always apply to our tanks.

I am toying with the idea of spending 500 on a microscope :)
 
TBH I think that a microscope at £500 is not going to be good enough to accurately identify algae. Your best bet might be looking for an academic that studies freshwater algae and asking them for some info. In fact I'm sure I've read somewhere that Mr Tom Barr is somewhat an expert. Perhaps he would be so kind as to share some knowledge?
 
Hi all,
Lisa may well be right, but I think a relatively cheap compound microscope could do for diatoms. I've recently dealt with Brunel Microscopes, and they have a good range of ex-demonstrators etc. well inside the £500 mark. Alan Potter is the main man and I was very impressed by him. <http://www.brunelmicroscopes.co.uk/> & pre-owned <http://www.usedmicroscopes.co.uk/exdemocompound.html>.

There is the microscopy UK site with lots of information <http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/> & <http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag...croscopy-uk.org.uk/mag/artnov99/machdiat.html>.

There is also the wonderful "Bioimages", I've had a lot of correspondence with Malcolm Storey and he has been very helpful.

Bioimages Diatoms: <http://www.bioimages.org.uk/html/t80560.htm>

cheers Darrel
 
Hello,

Here follow my story. I put extra bilogical media in my rio 400, maintenace and now after 2 weeks situation much better.
About light i'm sure not problem resolving for diatoma, why - here proof on my new 2 more weeks setup.
New setup
80L
hydor 450l/h internal + reactor unknow l/h
aqua clay and low stock with plants, extra added fast growing cabombas and Egeria densa
i left on light only 1 bulb but anything 2 wpg, high light
2 weeks regular water change every 3 days 60%
Ferilizing EI double dose due water changes and unknow how much absorb nutrients new clay substrate
2 weeks given only easy carbo 1ml(2ml to much, some plants start melt) and no one algea been, but growth realy slow.
I added 1 small fish for cycling period from start.
I use seachem prime water conditioner.

2-3 days ago i start inject co2 and after couple of hours near internal filter diatoma and on some rock slates, actualy within 2 hours i got diatoma.
Got due amonia imediate spike after injecting co2 via reactor, i have some amonia tests but i don't trust to this test stripes also there NH3 calculate + NH4 and not correct colors, but i feel very good amonia spike from water smell. In same day i changed 60% water and added macros. Diatoma stoping growning at all, lights on full throtle already some days and diatoma don't grow. Also i now every day feed water with little bacteria and will make regular water changes keep amonia so low as possible.
I think diatoma problem not light but instead amonia ;)
And I think light only is accelerator for diatoma if can feed with amonia and organics but that not problem resolving method, simply need keep organics and amonia so low as possible.
Of course lowering light for some time until amonia and organic waste problem resolved is good option too.
Now i'm on budget but i will buy Seachem matrix media or Siporax very soon.

Best Regards an many Thanks for Discusion :)
I wish Nice Day to All Forum Members
 
Re: RO water please advice ?

ceg4048 said:
Algae have two forms. They first exist as spores, which might be analogous seeds in higher plants. Here is an example of algae spores. This isn't diatomic algae, but is a green water type of algae (Haematococcus pluvialis). When in this state, algae sample the environment waiting for the combination of environmental parameters that are suitable for it's growth. In this form, the algae is invisible and innocuous. They lay on the substrate, on the surface of plants, wherever the currents take them. We're not sure exactly what combination of parameters they read, but we do know that light is a primary parameter. If the spectral energy exceeds some value it triggers a physiological change.

Your talking about stopping spores from germinating. I doubt this is possible in a tank full of nutrients. I think your better off stopping spores being produced, this is a different issue entirely what with it being on the other side of meiosis. I would expect it is more controllable.

Obviously, depends on which algae we are talking about. I think diatoms are oogamous, the egg stays inside the diatom and the motile sperm has to find it via chemataxis. I would imagine that flow can help alot in stopping this. If syngamy doesn't occur within a timelimit, the diatom will die. Flow could also affect zoospores (motile spores) by getting them stuck in your filter, maybe.

From what I can see, there are many different life cycles for algae. I am trying to identify the ones in my tank but it's no easy task! I would say though that dormant spore production seems to be a survival mechanism against adverse conditions, such as the onset of winter or depletion of nutrients. Therefore, simply practicing stability in the tank would go along way to avoiding sporogenesis.
 
Re: RO water please advice ?

sWozzAres said:
Your talking about stopping spores from germinating. I doubt this is possible in a tank full of nutrients. I think your better off stopping spores being produced, this is a different issue entirely what with it being on the other side of meiosis. I would expect it is more controllable.
Of course it's possible. I do it all the time. So do many others. I don't have any alga blooms. Algae are not caused by nutrients in the water. It's exactly the opposite of what you think. The Matrix has poisoned your mind against nutrients, so you've learned to associate nutrient levels with algae and this is a false premise. The OP is at least on the right track. The combination of light and the ammonia loading rate is responsible for his troubles.

Here is a tank which was being dosed with over 80 ppm NO3 and over 20ppm PO4 per week at the time of the photo. Conductivity was typically in excess of 800 microseimens. Alkalinity was just less than 15 KH and hardness was in excess of 25 GH. CO2 and flow were optimized at that point in the tanks life. I deliberately made the tank as hostile as I could with respect to these parameters and there were only two species I could not grow in abundance. One was named Tonina belem. The only bit of algae is seen on the wood. I didn't even clean the glass to take this photo. Of course you can stop spores from blooming. You just have to negotiate a settlement.
2387308170038170470S600x600Q85.jpg


sWozzAres said:
Obviously, depends on which algae we are talking about. I think diatoms are oogamous, the egg stays inside the diatom and the motile sperm has to find it via chemataxis. I would imagine that flow can help alot in stopping this. If syngamy doesn't occur within a timelimit, the diatom will die. Flow could also affect zoospores (motile spores) by getting them stuck in your filter, maybe.
Whatever. I don't care what species we're talking about. I don't have them because I'm not afraid of nutrients and because I concentrate on maximizing plant health first. This is the only form of negotiation algae will accept, regardless of the species or number of spores.

sWozzAres said:
From what I can see, there are many different life cycles for algae. I am trying to identify the ones in my tank but it's no easy task! I would say though that dormant spore production seems to be a survival mechanism against adverse conditions, such as the onset of winter or depletion of nutrients. Therefore, simply practicing stability in the tank would go along way to avoiding sporogenesis.
Well, again, I don't worry so much about studying or identifying the species. From my point of view that is tedious. I'm much more interested in growing plants, not stopping algae. I only need to recognize the general species in order to determine the nature of the fault occurring in the tank system. Once a general identification is achieved the corrective action can then be taken to improve plant health. The bloom subsides by default. This is why people fail in a high tech tank. They constantly worry about algae and their whole focus becomes a tunnel vision. This mentality of eradication is doomed from the start. Study plants, not algae. First learn what makes plants grow best. When the plants are healthy this automatically causes algae to recede.

Cheers,
 
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