flygja
Member
Very NA looking. I'm liking it a lot. With a bit of nice photography, it'll deserve a place in ADA's books 8)
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california dreaming - nano 30l
- Thread starter Mrmikey
- Start date
Mrmikey said:
Nah not ADA tank, only of those TMC Microhabitat that is free with PFK. Am thinking of getting of getting ADA glassware (diffuser, bubble counter) and cal aqua nano drop checker. Going to user Powersand and Aquasoil and I reckon also Brighty K, Brighty Step and maybe Special Lights. To be honest if I'm successful with this scape I might look into getting something slightly bigger to replace it, maybe in ADA form, but the thing is my knowledge is limited to my moss tank you posted on yesterday.
I'm just waiting for the tank to come from PFK which should be this or next week fingers crossed, then I'm going to get the substrate and hardscape and work out what I can afford from there. I've bookmarked some redmoor pieces on TGM website, thing is it's hard to gauge whether it's that special piece or if it's too big really. Also I have no clue about what plants I want at all really!! Species of plants are much harder to learn than species of coral I find
.
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Wicked, bet you can't wait for that nano tank to turn up. All your equipment listed sounds really good, the nano drop checker looks really neat when in place, I love mine.
Have you decided on your substrate yet, I've heard Oliver knott stuff is good for shrimp thanks. I'm still undecided on my 20l, may just have it as shirmp and a few little fish.
Are you going to do a journal on this? Be good to see/hear how you get on with the Ada ferts, people say they are pretty good.
Have you decided on your substrate yet, I've heard Oliver knott stuff is good for shrimp thanks. I'm still undecided on my 20l, may just have it as shirmp and a few little fish.
Are you going to do a journal on this? Be good to see/hear how you get on with the Ada ferts, people say they are pretty good.
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Hey Ceg,
Just wanna check something out with you about my tank. If you remember I have a 30l tank and am running a eheim ecco 200.
My goal from day one was to grow perfect hc, Im having a little trouble with hair algae all over it and a tiny bit of bba at the front. Everything I read about this says Co2 fluctuation and poor circulation are the cause. Actually I see you mention it a hell of a lot.
My glass lili pipe off ebay is flowing right over the hc, I can see it moving about when turn up full which it is, so I cant imagine it is circulation problems but then again...
would adding these pipes reduces flow? or do you think its a isssue with my CO2 fluctuating or maybe not being high enough.
Ive seen you mention co2 is the biggest headache and it seems that way. When I get the drop checker to show green/yellow the fish gasp in the morning at the surface. This was when the hc looked its best about 4 weeks ago. Trouble is I have some CRS and am trying to avoid massive PH swings using the solenoid. Some people say its ok to run co2 24/7 but quite low. I just want to check with you and ask you opinion on this, flow, co2 lol sorry to be a pain but you are the master
Cheers mike
Just wanna check something out with you about my tank. If you remember I have a 30l tank and am running a eheim ecco 200.
My goal from day one was to grow perfect hc, Im having a little trouble with hair algae all over it and a tiny bit of bba at the front. Everything I read about this says Co2 fluctuation and poor circulation are the cause. Actually I see you mention it a hell of a lot.
My glass lili pipe off ebay is flowing right over the hc, I can see it moving about when turn up full which it is, so I cant imagine it is circulation problems but then again...
would adding these pipes reduces flow? or do you think its a isssue with my CO2 fluctuating or maybe not being high enough.
Ive seen you mention co2 is the biggest headache and it seems that way. When I get the drop checker to show green/yellow the fish gasp in the morning at the surface. This was when the hc looked its best about 4 weeks ago. Trouble is I have some CRS and am trying to avoid massive PH swings using the solenoid. Some people say its ok to run co2 24/7 but quite low. I just want to check with you and ask you opinion on this, flow, co2 lol sorry to be a pain but you are the master
Cheers mike
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Hi Mike,
Sorry for my tardy response mate. Got sidetracked with a couple of other issues.
OK so yeah, hair and BBA are all about CO2, CO2, CO2....Of course, light energy, flow/distribution and injection timing are all part of this equation. We need to keep this in mind because if we focus only on CO2 injection rate then this could become toxic to fauna.
Hair algae occurs when the concentration is inadequate, while BBA is more related to fluctuation of the concentration.
CO2 run at 24/7 is OK. Guys like Dan Crawford have good luck with this technique so you can try it and see how you get on. Naturally, Dan doesn't go over the top with his lighting so his CO2 demands are not excessive. That contributes to his success with this technique.
Using a solenoid, you can drive the tank to short periods of high CO2 by lights on then, shut the gas off much earlier so that this reduces the overnight stress. CO2 is more important during the first 4-5 hours of the photoperiod. It's much less important in the afternoon, so solenoid users need to shut the gas off earlier than is commonly thought. I typically shut off my gas 3-4 hours prior to lights off so that by morning the fauna are not stressed. The gas goes on 1.5 to 2 hours before lights on so I get decent saturation and a lime green to yellow dropchecker as soon as the lights go on. This optimizes carbon fixation and lowers environmental stress.
As I mentioned though, If your PAR values are over the top then the required CO2 concentration levels to avoid hair and BBA will always be lethal. People are always going over the top with lighting, especially with HC.
Cheers,
Sorry for my tardy response mate. Got sidetracked with a couple of other issues.
OK so yeah, hair and BBA are all about CO2, CO2, CO2....Of course, light energy, flow/distribution and injection timing are all part of this equation. We need to keep this in mind because if we focus only on CO2 injection rate then this could become toxic to fauna.
Hair algae occurs when the concentration is inadequate, while BBA is more related to fluctuation of the concentration.
CO2 run at 24/7 is OK. Guys like Dan Crawford have good luck with this technique so you can try it and see how you get on. Naturally, Dan doesn't go over the top with his lighting so his CO2 demands are not excessive. That contributes to his success with this technique.
Using a solenoid, you can drive the tank to short periods of high CO2 by lights on then, shut the gas off much earlier so that this reduces the overnight stress. CO2 is more important during the first 4-5 hours of the photoperiod. It's much less important in the afternoon, so solenoid users need to shut the gas off earlier than is commonly thought. I typically shut off my gas 3-4 hours prior to lights off so that by morning the fauna are not stressed. The gas goes on 1.5 to 2 hours before lights on so I get decent saturation and a lime green to yellow dropchecker as soon as the lights go on. This optimizes carbon fixation and lowers environmental stress.
As I mentioned though, If your PAR values are over the top then the required CO2 concentration levels to avoid hair and BBA will always be lethal. People are always going over the top with lighting, especially with HC.
Cheers,
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Hi Clive,
Now i must apologise for my late late response, ive been off the boil lately and focussing my efforts on my art by learning how to screen print.
Do you ever feel like you are banging your head against a wall talking to people like me! ha
It seems that my problems are down to me, probably by not listening to people like you!. You get conflicting opinions on here so I've started to print off your posts and suggestions and am building a little book of trouble shooting for myself. But the more I read obviously the more i understand.
So my BBA and hair algae are down to, yes I should have guessed poor co2 application. I have to admit now i have let my tank slip as I am still waiting for a proper jbl co2 set up to arrive. I just dont think the nano one i have cuts the mustard. I find that when the little 95g canister gets low bubble rate speeds up. Also the diffuser when clean produces tiny micro bubbles and then within a day or two get bigger. I imagine this again contributes to co2 fluctuation, which in turn triggers BBA and not enough co2 produces hair algae.
However it is not only my HC that is suffering it is also my Pogostemon Helferi. The HC is covered in hair algae and my Pogostemon Helferi just doesn't seem to grow and looks weak, again probably down to poor co2 consistency and another factor my poor dosing.
After reading a lot of your threads (again) i have come to to the conclusion I am defiantly doing something wrong.
I have dropped the lighting from 2 x 11w arcpods to just a single 18w superfish light. Even though nothing has improved and I dont see it improving until i have my jbl regulator.
when it arrives i plan a new corse of action. In one of your millions of useful posts i found this.
"post blackout, continue EI dosing, as high a CO2 as the fish can handle + Excel. Keep the lighting levels low. It will take a few weeks for the Rubisco synthesis to build enough of the protein to be useful at CO2 uptake (then you'll see real improvement.)
I believe this may be the reason my Pogostemon Helferi is suffering. As I understand it I have baked my plants with light while not providing them sufficient nutrients and co2. The co2 becoming almost redundant because protein levels in the plants have dropped so low it is exhausting them, thus failure to grow (Rubisco synthesis)?.
So when this jbl turns up sometime this week, I am going to use my solenoid like you suggested and get co2 levels high in the morning and then switch it off 3 hours before lights off. Another thing that is going to change is my dosing. I probably have 2 more days worth of TPN+ and then im switching to EL dosing and mixing my own. I've read your tutorial on this and it seems to make sense so why not give it a try?. When i get the salts I will check ive done it right and will give it a whirl. I will not be beaten by a tiny little plant!!
I think maybe I over complicate matter and I may be wrong but it is on the surface quite simple:
keep light low (as long as plants look heathy),keep co2 and dosing high, good circulation, use easycarb daily.
water change 50% once/twice a week.
if algae is present up co2, up circulation but keep dosing as its not the nutrients that cause the algae, and even if it did once plants establish and grow they will out compete them.
I DO need to crack this as Ive ordered a 60cm optiwhite, and i dont want to double my disappointments! I will not be beaten by a tiny little plant!!! haha its at least 10 nil up!
Im dyslexic so hope this reads ok.
Thanks again clive,
p.s have you ever writen a book? coz you should!
Now i must apologise for my late late response, ive been off the boil lately and focussing my efforts on my art by learning how to screen print.
Do you ever feel like you are banging your head against a wall talking to people like me! ha
It seems that my problems are down to me, probably by not listening to people like you!. You get conflicting opinions on here so I've started to print off your posts and suggestions and am building a little book of trouble shooting for myself. But the more I read obviously the more i understand.
So my BBA and hair algae are down to, yes I should have guessed poor co2 application. I have to admit now i have let my tank slip as I am still waiting for a proper jbl co2 set up to arrive. I just dont think the nano one i have cuts the mustard. I find that when the little 95g canister gets low bubble rate speeds up. Also the diffuser when clean produces tiny micro bubbles and then within a day or two get bigger. I imagine this again contributes to co2 fluctuation, which in turn triggers BBA and not enough co2 produces hair algae.
However it is not only my HC that is suffering it is also my Pogostemon Helferi. The HC is covered in hair algae and my Pogostemon Helferi just doesn't seem to grow and looks weak, again probably down to poor co2 consistency and another factor my poor dosing.
After reading a lot of your threads (again) i have come to to the conclusion I am defiantly doing something wrong.
I have dropped the lighting from 2 x 11w arcpods to just a single 18w superfish light. Even though nothing has improved and I dont see it improving until i have my jbl regulator.
when it arrives i plan a new corse of action. In one of your millions of useful posts i found this.
"post blackout, continue EI dosing, as high a CO2 as the fish can handle + Excel. Keep the lighting levels low. It will take a few weeks for the Rubisco synthesis to build enough of the protein to be useful at CO2 uptake (then you'll see real improvement.)
I believe this may be the reason my Pogostemon Helferi is suffering. As I understand it I have baked my plants with light while not providing them sufficient nutrients and co2. The co2 becoming almost redundant because protein levels in the plants have dropped so low it is exhausting them, thus failure to grow (Rubisco synthesis)?.
So when this jbl turns up sometime this week, I am going to use my solenoid like you suggested and get co2 levels high in the morning and then switch it off 3 hours before lights off. Another thing that is going to change is my dosing. I probably have 2 more days worth of TPN+ and then im switching to EL dosing and mixing my own. I've read your tutorial on this and it seems to make sense so why not give it a try?. When i get the salts I will check ive done it right and will give it a whirl. I will not be beaten by a tiny little plant!!
I think maybe I over complicate matter and I may be wrong but it is on the surface quite simple:
keep light low (as long as plants look heathy),keep co2 and dosing high, good circulation, use easycarb daily.
water change 50% once/twice a week.
if algae is present up co2, up circulation but keep dosing as its not the nutrients that cause the algae, and even if it did once plants establish and grow they will out compete them.
I DO need to crack this as Ive ordered a 60cm optiwhite, and i dont want to double my disappointments! I will not be beaten by a tiny little plant!!! haha its at least 10 nil up!
Im dyslexic so hope this reads ok.
Thanks again clive,
p.s have you ever writen a book? coz you should!
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Hi Mike,
Yeah, I'd love to get together with my mates (George F. et al) and write a book. We could do a lot of myth busting I'm sure. Internet's pretty effective though. I've had folks from all over request permission to translate our articles to many different languages.
You've pretty much summarized what needs to be done. I can't recall which thread you pulled my quote from but it sounds like I might have been responding to someone who would have been going from a low CO2 environment to a high CO2 one. It's under these conditions that the Rubisco production rate becomes relevant. Under high CO2 the plant becomes "lazy" and lowers Rubisco content of the leaves. It doesn't have to be as efficient if the environment has lots of CO2. When the CO2 levels fall however, more Rubisco needs to be produce so that they can capture and transport the fewer CO2 molecules.
The irony of high CO2 concentration levels is that the plants then become more susceptible to falling levels or fluctuating levels since their Rubisco content is lower. Under lower CO2 conditions the plant is more robust because it has a higher Rubisco content. This is a bit of a Catch-22 and it's one of the things that makes CO2 application so difficult. But again, it all starts with the light. High PAR levels cause this tightrope act to develop.
Personally, I would be more inclined to use the two 11 watt bulbs because you'll have better control, not less control. All you really have to do is to use a single bulb for a greater percentage of the time. If most of the day, the tank sees only 11 watts this helps. You really only need the second bulb when you want to view the tank. If the 11 watt and the 18 watt bulbs are both T5 then there won't be that much difference between 22 watts and 18 watts.
Flow/distribution is the other issue. George Farmer uses 25X flow rating filter in his smaller tanks for example. That gets water moving into the plant beds and force feeds the leaves. I prefere stronger filters to powerheads. I just fee that you have better flow directional control with the filters, especially when using a spraybar. George uses lily pipes, but uses that higher flow rating so the efficiency loss of the pipes is compensated for.
In any case you definitely need better CO2 equipment. You may even want to check out the Fire Extinguisher methods as this will be cheaper in the long run.
Also remember that plants cannot compete with algae. They would lose every time. Algae are predators and plants are the prey. It's not a matter of competition between the two. It's merely that plants in good health can resist the attacks.
Cheers,
Yeah, I'd love to get together with my mates (George F. et al) and write a book. We could do a lot of myth busting I'm sure. Internet's pretty effective though. I've had folks from all over request permission to translate our articles to many different languages.
You've pretty much summarized what needs to be done. I can't recall which thread you pulled my quote from but it sounds like I might have been responding to someone who would have been going from a low CO2 environment to a high CO2 one. It's under these conditions that the Rubisco production rate becomes relevant. Under high CO2 the plant becomes "lazy" and lowers Rubisco content of the leaves. It doesn't have to be as efficient if the environment has lots of CO2. When the CO2 levels fall however, more Rubisco needs to be produce so that they can capture and transport the fewer CO2 molecules.
The irony of high CO2 concentration levels is that the plants then become more susceptible to falling levels or fluctuating levels since their Rubisco content is lower. Under lower CO2 conditions the plant is more robust because it has a higher Rubisco content. This is a bit of a Catch-22 and it's one of the things that makes CO2 application so difficult. But again, it all starts with the light. High PAR levels cause this tightrope act to develop.
Personally, I would be more inclined to use the two 11 watt bulbs because you'll have better control, not less control. All you really have to do is to use a single bulb for a greater percentage of the time. If most of the day, the tank sees only 11 watts this helps. You really only need the second bulb when you want to view the tank. If the 11 watt and the 18 watt bulbs are both T5 then there won't be that much difference between 22 watts and 18 watts.
Flow/distribution is the other issue. George Farmer uses 25X flow rating filter in his smaller tanks for example. That gets water moving into the plant beds and force feeds the leaves. I prefere stronger filters to powerheads. I just fee that you have better flow directional control with the filters, especially when using a spraybar. George uses lily pipes, but uses that higher flow rating so the efficiency loss of the pipes is compensated for.
In any case you definitely need better CO2 equipment. You may even want to check out the Fire Extinguisher methods as this will be cheaper in the long run.
Also remember that plants cannot compete with algae. They would lose every time. Algae are predators and plants are the prey. It's not a matter of competition between the two. It's merely that plants in good health can resist the attacks.
Cheers,
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Hi Mate,
I've had folks from all over request permission to translate our articles to many different languages.
Im not surprised one bit! I defiantly think you should get together with george and co and get a book out there. Your knowledge should be in hard back and Im sure it would go down a treat. Where did you get all you info? you must have done some serious reading!! But the best bit about your posts are the way they are written and you're ability to convey a point thats easy to understand.....writing
It's under these conditions that the Rubisco production rate becomes relevant. Under high CO2 the plant becomes "lazy" and lowers Rubisco content of the leaves. It doesn't have to be as efficient if the environment has lots of CO2.
I cant remember now either but i recall the guy had been away and reduced his light and algae had subsided. When he got back he banged up the lights and it all when terrible wrong. I think your advice was to leave lights and turn up co2 and up dosing.
The irony of high CO2 concentration levels is that the plants then become more susceptible to falling levels or fluctuating levels since their Rubisco content is lower. Under lower CO2 conditions the plant is more robust because it has a higher Rubisco content. This is a bit of a Catch-22 and it's one of the things that makes CO2 application so difficult. But again, it all starts with the light. High PAR levels cause this tightrope act to develop.
I love this hobby you dont stop learning, this is probably why my Pogostemon Helferi in my other tank does so well, i dont really try and grow anything in there it just does. Keep it under low light and I dont even put ferts in. Again illustrating the fact that lighting is the catalyst for disaster unless you up everything to match.
If most of the day, the tank sees only 11 watts this helps.
ok im gonna try and just use 11w now and see how i go. Your right i only like the hi light for veiwing so ill be good and try and leave the think alone. For me I like to try these things even though Im sure you told me to use 11w before. Maybe you gotta experience the problems and push you tank to find a level that your happy with. im getting there.
Flow/distribution is the other issue. George Farmer uses 25X flow rating filter in his smaller tanks for example. That gets water moving into the plant beds and force feeds the leaves. I prefere stronger filters to powerheads. I just fee that you have better flow directional control with the filters, especially when using a spraybar. George uses lily pipes, but uses that higher flow rating so the efficiency loss of the pipes is compensated for.
yeah this is a bummer i wish i got the next size up 700lph eheim instead. Oh well seems to be doing a good job with the water quality but may have to add a tunze mini pump aswell. I think i could get better flow with the spray bar but love the glassware. Cant wait to get diffuser out and use inline heard people say there pretty good.
In any case you definitely need better CO2 equipment. You may even want to check out the Fire Extinguisher methods as this will be cheaper in the long run.
think im going to need to make a cabinat, my filters on the floor and co2 canister will be like a bomb next to my bed.
Also remember that plants cannot compete with algae. They would lose every time. Algae are predators and plants are the prey. It's not a matter of competition between the two. It's merely that plants in good health can resist the attacks.
thanks for correcting me makes more sense if you think about it.
may copy and past these into my journal if ok.
Thanks again mate,
mike
I've had folks from all over request permission to translate our articles to many different languages.
Im not surprised one bit! I defiantly think you should get together with george and co and get a book out there. Your knowledge should be in hard back and Im sure it would go down a treat. Where did you get all you info? you must have done some serious reading!! But the best bit about your posts are the way they are written and you're ability to convey a point thats easy to understand.....writing
It's under these conditions that the Rubisco production rate becomes relevant. Under high CO2 the plant becomes "lazy" and lowers Rubisco content of the leaves. It doesn't have to be as efficient if the environment has lots of CO2.
I cant remember now either but i recall the guy had been away and reduced his light and algae had subsided. When he got back he banged up the lights and it all when terrible wrong. I think your advice was to leave lights and turn up co2 and up dosing.
The irony of high CO2 concentration levels is that the plants then become more susceptible to falling levels or fluctuating levels since their Rubisco content is lower. Under lower CO2 conditions the plant is more robust because it has a higher Rubisco content. This is a bit of a Catch-22 and it's one of the things that makes CO2 application so difficult. But again, it all starts with the light. High PAR levels cause this tightrope act to develop.
I love this hobby you dont stop learning, this is probably why my Pogostemon Helferi in my other tank does so well, i dont really try and grow anything in there it just does. Keep it under low light and I dont even put ferts in. Again illustrating the fact that lighting is the catalyst for disaster unless you up everything to match.
If most of the day, the tank sees only 11 watts this helps.
ok im gonna try and just use 11w now and see how i go. Your right i only like the hi light for veiwing so ill be good and try and leave the think alone. For me I like to try these things even though Im sure you told me to use 11w before. Maybe you gotta experience the problems and push you tank to find a level that your happy with. im getting there.
Flow/distribution is the other issue. George Farmer uses 25X flow rating filter in his smaller tanks for example. That gets water moving into the plant beds and force feeds the leaves. I prefere stronger filters to powerheads. I just fee that you have better flow directional control with the filters, especially when using a spraybar. George uses lily pipes, but uses that higher flow rating so the efficiency loss of the pipes is compensated for.
yeah this is a bummer i wish i got the next size up 700lph eheim instead. Oh well seems to be doing a good job with the water quality but may have to add a tunze mini pump aswell. I think i could get better flow with the spray bar but love the glassware. Cant wait to get diffuser out and use inline heard people say there pretty good.
In any case you definitely need better CO2 equipment. You may even want to check out the Fire Extinguisher methods as this will be cheaper in the long run.
think im going to need to make a cabinat, my filters on the floor and co2 canister will be like a bomb next to my bed.
Also remember that plants cannot compete with algae. They would lose every time. Algae are predators and plants are the prey. It's not a matter of competition between the two. It's merely that plants in good health can resist the attacks.
thanks for correcting me makes more sense if you think about it.
may copy and past these into my journal if ok.
Thanks again mate,
mike
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Yeah mate, no worries, just do me a favor and fix all my spelling mistakes...
Inline diffusers work so much better than in-tank units because you get better mixing. If you can port the output to a spraybar then you get a very good distribution, but even the lily pipes will do better than some disk stuck in the corner. In-tank units have a more random distribution because the CO2 concentration has to work it's way across the tank. Any inline brand or type will work, DIY, Aquamedic, UpAtomizer, CalAqua, whatever. It's the principle that works.
People really do get hooked on light. I'm an addict myself and I don't think I'll ever recover, but whenever I'm planning a tank setup the very first thing I think about, above all else is how I will accomplish CO2 and flow distribution. Everything else is designed around that implementation plan.
Cheers,
Clive
Inline diffusers work so much better than in-tank units because you get better mixing. If you can port the output to a spraybar then you get a very good distribution, but even the lily pipes will do better than some disk stuck in the corner. In-tank units have a more random distribution because the CO2 concentration has to work it's way across the tank. Any inline brand or type will work, DIY, Aquamedic, UpAtomizer, CalAqua, whatever. It's the principle that works.
People really do get hooked on light. I'm an addict myself and I don't think I'll ever recover, but whenever I'm planning a tank setup the very first thing I think about, above all else is how I will accomplish CO2 and flow distribution. Everything else is designed around that implementation plan.
Cheers,
Clive
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
So heres the tank update with new bits and bobs:
30l
18w super fish
eheim ecco pro
tunze mini pump
jbl co2 reg, 500g bottles
solenoid
dry ferts
inline heater
hopefully I have most bases covered
Ok, due to waiting for all this stuff to come in the plants have taken a beating and things just melted and died. So i took this opportunity to cut back the erectus and re-tie the riccia, get rid of hair algae, take out 95% of hc. So now the tank looks pretty sorry for itself. (about a weekago )
Here are the ferts I got, pretty good for £16 and great service even with the snow. Looks very impressive but one of the bottles had pre mixed powders in so all i had to do was add water...basically cheap tpn+ based on james planted tank. Not sure what all the % are to make it up but seems to be doing the trick.
I say that because I have noticed algae hair algae hasnt really grown back, just left over bits on riccia. The glass seems to be staying cleaner longer which is good and today all the riccia and left over hc started pearling.
I have the pumped up the co2 in the mornings as the drop checker wasnt really changing colour till mid afternoon i think this has helped alot. Now it goes yellow so maybe a bit too much, I think my fish were stressing. With a few tweaks hopefully i will sort it out before HC x3 pots turns up tomorrow.
Overall looking optimistic, plants defiantly healthier, pogostemon helferi melted badly, went yellow but has bounced back! its a miracle! even got some buds sprouting
30l
18w super fish
eheim ecco pro
tunze mini pump
jbl co2 reg, 500g bottles
solenoid
dry ferts
inline heater
hopefully I have most bases covered
Ok, due to waiting for all this stuff to come in the plants have taken a beating and things just melted and died. So i took this opportunity to cut back the erectus and re-tie the riccia, get rid of hair algae, take out 95% of hc. So now the tank looks pretty sorry for itself. (about a weekago )
Here are the ferts I got, pretty good for £16 and great service even with the snow. Looks very impressive but one of the bottles had pre mixed powders in so all i had to do was add water...basically cheap tpn+ based on james planted tank. Not sure what all the % are to make it up but seems to be doing the trick.
I say that because I have noticed algae hair algae hasnt really grown back, just left over bits on riccia. The glass seems to be staying cleaner longer which is good and today all the riccia and left over hc started pearling.
I have the pumped up the co2 in the mornings as the drop checker wasnt really changing colour till mid afternoon i think this has helped alot. Now it goes yellow so maybe a bit too much, I think my fish were stressing. With a few tweaks hopefully i will sort it out before HC x3 pots turns up tomorrow.
Overall looking optimistic, plants defiantly healthier, pogostemon helferi melted badly, went yellow but has bounced back! its a miracle! even got some buds sprouting
.
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Hi nelson, haha believe me I've wanted to start again many times over! I'm using this scape to learn and I said to myself that I will only do a new scape when I can get this one looking good. Also I want to grow the plants a little more and use them on my next scape to save some money. Think it will be very simple
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Hi nelson, thanks mate but I decided to start again with new scape. I haven't set it up yet and the tank is in a right mess. Been pretty busy lately so haven't been posting much.
Why did I take it apart? Well I thought I had my co2 sorted... But I found it hard to get the co2 high enough for the hc. I bought some new pots from greenmachine and they just melted away?... So I though sod this and try something new with a bit less hassle. Might try it with Narrow leaf java, glosso and a bit of moss I'm trying to grow in my 20l. Can't wait to get it sorted again. I'd love some good manzi wood or a good root but I haven't got the cash... saving for filter for my 60l coming in the next two weeks however if tom barr ever gets back to me on the manzi wood I might be well in as I'd sell if the other bits I didn't use.
Why did I take it apart? Well I thought I had my co2 sorted... But I found it hard to get the co2 high enough for the hc. I bought some new pots from greenmachine and they just melted away?... So I though sod this and try something new with a bit less hassle. Might try it with Narrow leaf java, glosso and a bit of moss I'm trying to grow in my 20l. Can't wait to get it sorted again. I'd love some good manzi wood or a good root but I haven't got the cash... saving for filter for my 60l coming in the next two weeks
however if tom barr ever gets back to me on the manzi wood I might be well in as I'd sell if the other bits I didn't use.
nayr88
Member
- Joined
- 4 Feb 2010
- Messages
- 2,101
That's a shame it came down, I was just about to say its been a good read and how good the scape looks. Then you chuck it out the your scraped it
That's odd that the HC from the green machine melted even with decent flow fert and co2, and the lights OK aswell. Well your moss was posted yesterday and that grows and grows haha
I don't think Tom does small amounts of Manzi anymore.
That's odd that the HC from the green machine melted even with decent flow fert and co2, and the lights OK aswell. Well your moss was posted yesterday and that grows and grows haha
I don't think Tom does small amounts of Manzi anymore.
Mrmikey
Member
- Joined
- 2 Apr 2010
- Messages
- 372
Ha thanks mate was sad to see it go but I'll try something a little different. I hope that moss does grow well, very very slow in my tank , maybe with some co2 it will come to life. Yeah I think he said that he could do me a box, bit then he vanished lol think he said it would cost about £170 to post some over....
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