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Experiance with ADA Brighty?

B

bjorn

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1 Dec 2010
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I've started to use ADA's liquid ferizliers and trying to figure out which ones to use. I currently do Brighty Step 1, but would you also combine that with Brighty Lights or Brighty Shade? Or would you just use one or the other, not both at the same time?

It's a bit confusing on the descriptions, as most seem to hint it's added for specific plants in addition to normal fertilizers.. but other places seems to say it's instead of..

I also noticed that Brighty Shade and Lights both contain extra Nitrogen, Phosphates and Potassium, do you need that in a new planted tank with fish?

Anyone can clarify?
 
It is either Light/Shade or step 1/2/3; not both. Only adding Brighty K might be helpfull
 
I bought a set of ada ferts from TGM, its pretty much all you need fert wise for the 1st 3 months, includes step1 and brightly K as well as Green bacter and Pyhthon git,

I dose 1pump of Step1 and Brightly K everyday
And 1drop of the G.bacter and 2 P.git at water change.
Substrate is powersand special S topped with amazonia powder

I was doing a water chane every 3days when using the ferts as it was on my nano.

I'm now using aquarebel fert, but had great succes healthy quick growth with this system. So I'd recommend it. Stuff like python git and eca is your call, it worked for me, but would I notice if I hadn't used them? Who knows it was easy enough for me to splash it in the tank on w/c.....ECA is good for Red stems I've heard so bear that in mind if you got extra cash and wouldn't mind testing it out.

Cheers
 
Thank you!

That journal is very good, explains it very well but you guys explained it already too.. I'll hold off on the Brighty Shade and Light. I think it's actually caused a bit of a algea outbreak and high levels of Nitrate by using both.

I'm using it together with ADA Amazonia and PowerSand Special, was a bloody mess but it cleared up nicely now and Ammonia is gone after 12 days (almost daily 40% water changes).

Also, for anyone else who's trying to figure out what's in each of these I found this handly reference:

http://www.adana.co.jp/en/products/na_l ... n_brighty/
 
Tom said:
Yes, if you're using Amazonia I would hold off both of them. You might find it useful after a year or so when the nutrients in the Aquasoil become lower.
Click to expand...

You mean hold off the Brighty Shade and Light?
 
Tom said:
Yeah, I would. Or at least pick one of them at a low dose unless you find you need it. You never need to dose both together, and they're usually only used with substrates of lower nutrition than Amazonia.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks! :thumbup:

I think I've actually managed to create a bit of a Algea outbreak by dosing both.. typical.. the tank was perfect before I started with both.
 
Well, let's not get into an ADA-bashing thread, please.

Their system works very well.

However, it does require the user to be on top of issues such as CO2 and circulation.

Water changes are another potential contender. In the early stages of using ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia, it does leech a lot of ammonia/ammonium that's said to be a massive algae trigger. Water changes are an ideal remedy for this.
 
George Farmer said:
Well, let's not get into an ADA-bashing thread, please.

Their system works very well.

However, it does require the user to be on top of issues such as CO2 and circulation.

Water changes are another potential contender. In the early stages of using ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia, it does leech a lot of ammonia/ammonium that's said to be a massive algae trigger. Water changes are an ideal remedy for this.
Click to expand...

It did leach a very large amount of Ammonia for 10 days, Tuesday was the first day with no ammonia. But I didn't know Ammonia could trigger Algae.. that would explain it then. It's mainly long hairy strands of brownish Algae but it seems to be sort of turning in to dust now. I've just put in my 4 Oto's and Cherry Shrimps today so hopefully they will help out too.

- I have very good circulation around the entire tank, almost 10x the volume of water.
- Lights 4x36w T8 Plant Pro Aracdia lights. (O2 Luminare)
- CO2 level are Green in drop checker (33ppm? - PH: 6.55, KH: 4, GH: 8 )
- I've done 30-40% water changes daily for the last 10-12 days as well.

I assumed it was due to overdoing the fertilizers as I was reading an article about Algea which was saying that Nitrogen and Phosphates was a cause to Algae, might have been an old article.

This is the Tank:
mytank.jpg
 
the Brown Diatoms now turned into dust.. but I've instead been given lots of hairy looking brown algea. It's very fine strands of brown algea, probably 2-4cm long. Is this also normal in a new tank? Or have I got something else wrong?

algae.jpg
 
I think I understand, so even if I was overdosing the fertilizers the large water changes I was doing should have prevented any Algea problems due to overdosing. Which means any Algea problem I know have are due to other reasons, i.e. Ammonia, light or CO2?

Ammonia is gone, so then maybe I have the light on too long (10 hours)?

Is that what you mean or?
 
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