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Using EI Aquarium Water to Water a Bonsai?

Bobtastic

Member
Joined
13 May 2009
Messages
745
Location
Manchester, UK
Is it a good idea and use of waste water or will it damage the Bonsai?

My care instructions say to stand the tree in water covering the soil for 10-15mins so I thought it would be a good way to give it food without have to get terrestrial plant food.

Feel free to tell me it's a stupid idea and why! ;)
 
should be fine Bob. The only thing you have to watch with Bonsai is that you dont induce reverse osmosis whereby the roots of the tree cant take up water due to having too much ferts. Your idea of every fourth should be fine but also remember that Bonsai only get ferts when they are growing. Best to check your Bonsai type and google it to see when in the years its best to fertilise it.

Fertilizer or Salt Burn

Fertilizers are designed to operate in a broad spectrum of container sizes and soil composition at full recommended strength. There is no danger of 'burning the roots' when used as directed for anything from a seedling with its first true leaves, to a rooted cutting, to four hundred year old trees. Fertilizer 'burn' is a chemical phenomenon which can be described as backward osmosis. Fertilizers are salts, and in solution they have a salt 'value' or concentration. The liquid inside the cells of roots and all other living tissue also have salts and solutes. Osmosis is the phenomenon of water moving across an otherwise impermeable cell membrane into a solution of higher salt concentration. As long as the concentration of the soil solution is lower than the salt concentration of the cell, the soil solution with its dissolved salts (fertilizer and minerals) will be carried into the cell and utilized.

If you do not follow directions and accidently make a solution that has a higher concentration of salt than the concentration in the cell, the water will move out of the cell and into the soil solution, thus dehydrating the cell. This is a backward osmosis for the plant, and the effects are salt or fertilizer 'burn'. In extreme cases it will cause fatal dehydration and the symptoms will be the exactly the same as if you didn't water the plant, wilt, dull blue green color to the leaves, then yellowing or browning and death of the plant. In milder cases of salt poisoning only the margins of leaves will be affected. Usually they will turn yellow then brown.

To achieve a concentration capable of doing this requires mixing a batch many times stronger than recommended full strength soluble fertilizer. Usually you will see it only if too much solid fertilizer is directly applied to the soil surface or in the case of very hard water.
 
Thanks guys. I wouldn't imagine I would cause any salt burn with a dilute end of the week EI reused tank water. I'm not sure of the flavour of the tree, but do remember is stay to feed only in Spring-Summer.

At what sort of size should I think about repotting? and how often should I replaced the soil? It looks pretty sandy atm...
 
stuworrall said:
nice tree species bob

What did you mean by what size to repot in your other post?

Species is purely by accident as it was an impulse purchase in Aldi. ;)

I must admit that I'd read the term "repot" and assumed it mean moving it into a different potentially larger pot/container. But I guess the term could equally mean change the soil for a fresh mix?
 
yeah, you tend to repot so the tree doesnt become pot bound when the roots grow too big. Of course if you want to put it in a bigger pot becuase the one you have is too small then that is fine too.

Repotting is usually done when the tree is in its dormant stage so you dont damage it. I use a mix of akadama, cat litter and compost which is quite free draining so you dont get any root rot.
 
stuworrall said:
yeah, you tend to repot so the tree doesnt become pot bound when the roots grow too big.

So in this instance would you move the tree to a new, slightly larger pot? Or do you trim the roots?
 
Bobtastic said:
stuworrall said:
yeah, you tend to repot so the tree doesnt become pot bound when the roots grow too big.

So in this instance would you move the tree to a new, slightly larger pot? Or do you trim the roots?
I dunno, I havent seen the tree :D stick some pics up when you get the chance.
 
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I'm not saying that it needs repotting, as I've only just gotten it. I just wanted to know the... process.
 
Bonsai clubs are good to join, in a few minutes, you learn 10X vs reading.

I hack the roots back and trim them good about once every 2-5 years, then repack fresh soil etc. This gives me a chance to make sure the tree is healthy and any training or trimming is done after or before this repotting however. I like to allow the tree some time to recover and build up strength. You need some decent trimming tools and larger trees, perhaps some pruning shears or small saw etc.

I will cut a 25cm x 18 cm root ball back about 3-4 cm on each edge except the top.
 
Tank water works great for the moss and other cover, as well as for foliar applications. Fertigation basically.
 
I have kept potted trees & shrubs for over 30 years & own a large collection but, it has only been for the last three years, since I discovered - chicken sh.t!
I have found this to be a great source of root nutrition & although I accept the possible variables depending on the chickens diet, the product I use works extremely well ....
 
bonsai trees are usually grown in the ground or large containers until they reach the required size. then they are transferred to shallower training pots to get them ready for their actual pots. they are potted in bonsai pots to basically halt the growing process, this is what keeps them stunted. so bonsai trees are not usually moved from smaller pots to larger pots like regular pot plants. they are taken out of their pots, the roots are trimmed back by about a 3rd depending on the tree species and potted back in the same pot with fresh soil..

potting up a tree and matching the style of the tree to the pot is usually the last and final step...
 
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