sanj
Member
Very nice scape and I like the wood effect behind the tank too.
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Another newbie has a go: Dartmoor tor-inspired (maybe!)
- Thread starter sarahtermite
- Start date
sarahtermite
Member
darren636 said:
I appreciate your advice, Darren. I knew the lights were on for too long
It took me a while to get the timers, but they're now on from 2pm to 10pm. Still too long? As for the otos, I did buy them fresh out of quarantine. If I was going to buy them again, I'd wait a while. And I will certainly follow the instructions on the CO2; my only (?) problem is that the solenoid didn't come with any instructions at all, so I don't know at what point I link it in! I'm hoping it'll become clearer once I get the CO2 set up....Alastair said:
sanj said:
Thank you so much Alistair and Sanj; it means a lot coming from two such experienced aquascapers
. Incidentally, I collected the wood initially to go in the tank, but I got too much, and it was too big, and I didn't want to not use it, so I put it behind as a stop-gap, and now I rather like it. I'm not sure I could have used all of it, anyhow, as some bits were burnt. I presume you can't put burned wood in the tank; but is that true? Isn't it just carbon? Or does the process of burning release loads of nasty toxins?
Hi
Re solenoid there should be a arrow pointing on the solenoid casing.
The Co2 flow runs through the solenoid in that direction from the regulator to the bubble counter then the diffuser.
Cheers
hoggie
Re solenoid there should be a arrow pointing on the solenoid casing.
The Co2 flow runs through the solenoid in that direction from the regulator to the bubble counter then the diffuser.
Cheers
hoggie
sarahtermite
Member
hogan53 said:
Brilliant - that's really helpful!
I shall go and investigate closely. Thanks Hoggie.
sarahtermite
Member
Well, I finally connected the CO2 to the tank this week; it does seem to be making a difference to the plants, and for the first time ever I've seen pearling on the plants! (Not the be-all and end-all, I know, but still nice to know that I can get it ). But it does add yet more 'stuff' into the tank, and it's looking very crowded at the edges. Doesn't help that I have two heaters - think I'm going to replace them with just one. Both of them together only get the water to about 20 - 21 degrees C, which is well below the 25 they're supposed to achieve. Anybody any recommendations for a decent nano heater?
Next task is to fit the solenoid, so that the CO2 is on for a regular period (aiming for 2 hours before lights come on and off an hour before the lights go off). Which raises a question which I hope someone can help me with - do I connect the solenoid in the high pressure tubing, or the softer, silicon tubing? I'd guess the high pressure, but it'd be nice to have some expert advice!
The hairgrass is growing well, but the Pogostemon helferi and the Bolbitis difformis are getting what I think is brown diatoms on them, especially the B. difformis; only the new growth seems free (see below, apologies for crappy photo - taken on iPhone). My inclination is to get the CO2 sorted, and then just prune out the affective growth on the Bolbitis. Does this seem sensible, or is there something else I could try?
). But it does add yet more 'stuff' into the tank, and it's looking very crowded at the edges. Doesn't help that I have two heaters - think I'm going to replace them with just one. Both of them together only get the water to about 20 - 21 degrees C, which is well below the 25 they're supposed to achieve. Anybody any recommendations for a decent nano heater?
Next task is to fit the solenoid, so that the CO2 is on for a regular period (aiming for 2 hours before lights come on and off an hour before the lights go off). Which raises a question which I hope someone can help me with - do I connect the solenoid in the high pressure tubing, or the softer, silicon tubing? I'd guess the high pressure, but it'd be nice to have some expert advice!
The hairgrass is growing well, but the Pogostemon helferi and the Bolbitis difformis are getting what I think is brown diatoms on them, especially the B. difformis; only the new growth seems free (see below, apologies for crappy photo - taken on iPhone). My inclination is to get the CO2 sorted, and then just prune out the affective growth on the Bolbitis. Does this seem sensible, or is there something else I could try?
Hi
Best using the stiff tubing on the solenoid.
hoggie
Best using the stiff tubing on the solenoid.
hoggie
sarahtermite
Member
Once again, thanks for your advice Hoggie; the CO2 is now attached to the solenoid, and so far so good! I've only just put in the drop checker, so I'll keep an eye on the CO2 levels, but it currently comes on about an hour before the lights, and goes off an hour before the lights go off.
I noticed this plant/algae growing on some of the twiggier bits of wood.
Anybody any idea what it is?
I noticed this plant/algae growing on some of the twiggier bits of wood.
Anybody any idea what it is?
sarahtermite
Member
Kind of OK. I'm still trying to sort out the right level of CO2, and I don't want to add any clean up crew until that's stable (currently getting my drop checker to dark-mid green). And I'm still not sure my flow is sufficient through the tank. I'm getting what I think is brown diatom growth over the hardscape and older leaves. However, the Bolbitis has had a trim and is growing back well, and I'm going to bite the bullet and give the Eleocharis a trim today (first one :!: ). Will post pics later....mikeappleby said:
pariahrob
New Member
Sounds like progress Sarah. I don't think you should worry too much about the diatoms. Give the glass and stone a quick scrub before you do a water change and you should be ok. That's all I did. Now my Sakura and rillies take care of algae.
Do you have a recent photo? Im interested in this new heater you told me about. Is it doing a better job than the two you had before?
Do you have a recent photo? Im interested in this new heater you told me about. Is it doing a better job than the two you had before?
sarahtermite
Member
Rob - this is the heater I've now got in my nano:
http://orinoco-aquatics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=49
It seems to keep my tank at a steady 24.8-24.9, which is a couple of degrees warming than the previous two combined, so I'm a happy bunny!
I've given the tank an overhaul (hairgrass looks rather sorry for itself now - bit scalped!); was going to post some pics, but time got away from me, and now I'm off for a couple of days, so will do when I get back. I think next weekend I'll also get some shrimps in there, and was thinking of some ramshorn snails, too.
http://orinoco-aquatics.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=49
It seems to keep my tank at a steady 24.8-24.9, which is a couple of degrees warming than the previous two combined, so I'm a happy bunny!
I've given the tank an overhaul (hairgrass looks rather sorry for itself now - bit scalped!); was going to post some pics, but time got away from me, and now I'm off for a couple of days, so will do when I get back. I think next weekend I'll also get some shrimps in there, and was thinking of some ramshorn snails, too.
sarahtermite
Member
Re: Another newbie has a go: Dartmoor tor-inspired: problems
So I came back from four days away, and the CO2 had run out. Luckily, it didn't seem to have caused any extra problems, and the cylinder had lasted a long time, almost a month. Which makes me think maybe I need to turn it up, as the drop checker only really goes mid-green. Is there a certain level below which CO2 has no effect, or is it a case of the more there is, the better the plants like it? From what I've read, the fish and shrimp aren't keen on CO2, and I'd put their needs ahead of the plants.
Anyhow, talking of shrimp, I finally decided the CO2 was sufficiently steady to get some clean-up crew in, so I went and bought 3 amano shrimp from my LFS yesterday. Initially all was fine, and they took their new homes happily. But when I got home from work today I couldn't see them anywhere, and after a lot of peering and poking it dawned on me that they might have got sucked into the HOB filter. And that's where I found their little corpses. I feel really bad about this; it just hasn't occurred to me that this could happen. I guess before I get any more I'll have to find a way to cover the inlet. I would use sponge, but I don't want to restric the flow any more than it is already, so maybe tie some mesh over it? Anyhow got any better ideas?
So I came back from four days away, and the CO2 had run out. Luckily, it didn't seem to have caused any extra problems, and the cylinder had lasted a long time, almost a month. Which makes me think maybe I need to turn it up, as the drop checker only really goes mid-green. Is there a certain level below which CO2 has no effect, or is it a case of the more there is, the better the plants like it? From what I've read, the fish and shrimp aren't keen on CO2, and I'd put their needs ahead of the plants.
Anyhow, talking of shrimp, I finally decided the CO2 was sufficiently steady to get some clean-up crew in, so I went and bought 3 amano shrimp from my LFS yesterday. Initially all was fine, and they took their new homes happily. But when I got home from work today I couldn't see them anywhere, and after a lot of peering and poking it dawned on me that they might have got sucked into the HOB filter. And that's where I found their little corpses.
I feel really bad about this; it just hasn't occurred to me that this could happen. I guess before I get any more I'll have to find a way to cover the inlet. I would use sponge, but I don't want to restric the flow any more than it is already, so maybe tie some mesh over it? Anyhow got any better ideas?
pariahrob
New Member
Oh no! Sorry to hear that Sarah.
You could try the foot of some low denier tights/stockings? That shouldn't restrict flow too much but will prevent the shrimp being sucked up. It will also prevent any little bits of plant and uneaten food too, so you'd need to clean it fairly regularly.
What's the diameter of your HOBs inlet pipe? I have some good hose clips that would look better than zip ties. If they are suitable I'll send a couple your way.
As for CO2 it seems that very low settings tend to be less consistent and although better than nothing, you want to be on the green/yellow side of things. This is from my own experience though, so it might be different for you.
Just increase gently over time and keep any eye on the fish. If they start gasping and breathing from the surface reduce it again. You'll get the balance with a little time.
Rob
You could try the foot of some low denier tights/stockings? That shouldn't restrict flow too much but will prevent the shrimp being sucked up. It will also prevent any little bits of plant and uneaten food too, so you'd need to clean it fairly regularly.
What's the diameter of your HOBs inlet pipe? I have some good hose clips that would look better than zip ties. If they are suitable I'll send a couple your way.
As for CO2 it seems that very low settings tend to be less consistent and although better than nothing, you want to be on the green/yellow side of things. This is from my own experience though, so it might be different for you.
Just increase gently over time and keep any eye on the fish. If they start gasping and breathing from the surface reduce it again. You'll get the balance with a little time.
Rob
sarahtermite
Member
Thanks Rob.
I'll have a go with some tights (easy to source!). The inlet is about 1cm in diameter; would your clips fit? If so, that would be great. If not I reckon I could probably use those black elastic bands that are used to attach moss to rocks.
And I've turned up the CO2, I'll see what effect that has. The main problem I'm having at the moment is with brown diatoms; I think that's indicative of fluctuating CO2 levels, so ideally I don't want to keep turning it up and down and up again.
I'll have a go with some tights (easy to source!). The inlet is about 1cm in diameter; would your clips fit? If so, that would be great. If not I reckon I could probably use those black elastic bands that are used to attach moss to rocks.
And I've turned up the CO2, I'll see what effect that has. The main problem I'm having at the moment is with brown diatoms; I think that's indicative of fluctuating CO2 levels, so ideally I don't want to keep turning it up and down and up again.
My diatoms were dying away/getting less after a couple of weeks, but last weeked I got 6 "ottos" and between them they have scoffed the lot. Not a sign of brown diatoms anywhere.darren636 said:
Shouldn't have removed the brown covered leaves on Saturday when I did the water change, would have given them some more to eat. Quite impressive the difference they have made.
sarahtermite
Member
Thanks Ian - is that stainless steel mesh? That sounds like a good idea, certainly durable, though I'm not 100% sure how I'd attach it to the filter intake (it's quite smooth). But I'll give it a go!ian_m said:
ian_m said:
Otos are great, though I'm not sure how many I could get in my tank, as it's only ~12 litres. Plus, I had a bad experience with them in my main tank; out of the four I bought, three died within just a few days.
Having read up on them it seems they can arrive in the LFS having been poisoned in the collecting. Don't know for sure that's what happened for me, but the water was fine, and I've never had problems like that before.I have been scrubbing the diatoms off the rocks, Darren, but it's all over the lower leaves of my Pogostemon helferi, and also on my very spindly twigs. I seem to do more damage than good when I try and scrub them!
pariahrob
New Member
Any updates on the tank Sarah? SHow us some photos with your new cherries!
sarahtermite
Member
They do look very happy! Will get some pics up tomorrow, with any luck.
