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Tank re-start - keeping algae at bay

nry

Member
Joined
23 Oct 2007
Messages
1,225
Location
Cumbria, UK
I'm back :)

To the point - I don't think I've ever managed to keep my tank algae free, or at least with minimal issues, in all the times it has been re-scaped.

I'm going to re-scape again in the next week or two - I always regretted buying the 30cm height (54L) Juwel Rekord tank instead of the taller 70L one - I happened to find someone had thrown a perfect one in the skip at work so it has been rescued and will replace my current 54L one. My setup will be as follows:

* 60w x 30d x 45h 70 litre aquarium
* TetraTec EX600 filter - 600 litres per hour book spec. connected to glass lily/inlet pipes
* 2 x 15w T8 tubes on timer
* Pressurised CO2 via FE/inline diffuser on timer
* Tetra Complete substrate topped with 3mm Dorset gravel
* Koralia Nano on timer with CO2

I have some Redmoor wood on the way from AE and am looking to plant mainly crypts with a eleocharis mini carpet.

I follow the full EI scheme using powders (inc. trace) mixed with water from Fluid Sensor, weighed and dosed to their supplied specifications. 50% water change on Monday evening each week. Filter cleaned every 4 weeks (sometimes 5 if I forget which week).

Not sure on fish stock yet, I'll worry about that once the scape and plants have settled in nicely - there will be some cherry shrimp in from day one since I have plenty.

What I always find is that initially things always start off well. Algae ever seems to rear its head until maybe 3-5 months into the scape. At present BBA loves my current substrate (FloraBase) and rocks, though it doesn't bother the plants much. I have some thread algae on the vallis.

CO2 is as high as I can get it without the fish gasping. I did have some manzanita wood in but like the rocks, it was impossible to keep algae free, BBA coated it and it looked very messy.

Lights are on for a single 7hr photo period, 3pm through to 10pm. CO2 is on from 12pm to 10pm.

Overall I am confused as to what I'm doing wrong - the filtration is perhaps low for the tank size given the 600lph may well end up halfed, so as recommendations are for 10x volume per hour, I'm hitting half that. The Koralia should have helped here, but overall it didn't have a major impact on reducing algae.

Suggestions welcome - having the taller tank will mean the lighting moves further away from the substrate/lower plant leaves. I'm just looking to keep things more algae free like many of you on here appear to achieve, yet I never seem to manage! I was close to ditching the tank this time around, but my kids persuaded me to have one more go as they love having the fish :)
 
I can't due to the starter unit being a dual-one, a single T8 would also drop the light below 1wpg too...which may not be good for the hair grass I'm planning?
 
Hi
Glad you haven't decided to pack it in. :thumbup:
Algae usually rears its head when there is a long period of lighting in a new set-up....or unstable Co2 or even a period of Non-cleaning routine activity.
When either of the above happen, it then can be difficult to eradicate the diatoms/algae after it gets established.
To combat this you need to do a lot of manual labour to keep it at bay.

With you having kids they would rather watch the fish than your backside....and that's not what you would like either...2 to 3 water changes a week gravel cleaning, glass cleaning, filter cleaning :( .

I would ditch the hair grass its a debris/detritus magnate...use Subulata.
If you do use Hair grass clean it regularly with a gravel cleaner.
Ditch the koralia(they only push around floating detritus) till your plants are clean and healthy and algae free....then you can re-install it.
Up grade your filter...if not just use 1 filter pad and 1 fine floss pad this will give you much more filtering power.
Purchase some floating plants and fast growing stems.
Reduce the lighting to 6 hours....this is the key point....your plants wont suffer.
Try and keep a stable Co2 level...Green is good...no its ideal :thumbup:
If your drop checker is not registering Green before lights come on switch them off and reset your Co2 dosing...dose to Green then switch the lights on.
Dont go down the Lime green coloured route..it will only cause you stress and your fish stress.
Use the full EI dosing routine.

Give the plants a good shake to remove dead skin cells and detritus.
Remove any damaged or discoloured leaves on all plants.
Do a gravel clean every week...best before water changes.
Do smaller water changes....try and keep the disturbance down to a minimum.
Monitor your plants you may get melt from Crypts any small melt sign remove the leaves immediatley.
Do this for about 10/12 weeks..it will pass quickly and hopefully you will have a healthy plants and a clean algae free tank.
After this period you can increase the lighting period.
Cheers
hoggie
 
I do feel that BBA got worse after adding the Koralia, however the diatoms on the glass stopped instantly. Light wise, the taller tank will reduce levels at the substrate level a little.

Lighting was 6 hours already and I'll be sticking with that.

I had looked at upgrading the filter though at the moment money isn't overly free - I'd prefer to keep the existing glassware so I'd need the same pipe diameter (12/13mm internal diameter), that may limit my choice. I had, however, wondered on fitting the spraybar instead of the lily pipe, that may give improved flow without worrying about the Koralia being used.

I'm not too fussed on maintenance tasks, though it is more my other hobby (JuJutsu which I try to get to twice a week) than the kids, they strangely enjoy watching my empty water out :)
 
Hmm. have you seen this:
http://www.aquadesign.pl/galeria_48B.htm
The set up isn't all that far from yours.
One thing I would say is the intakes limit flow on filters a lot more than the outlets (lilys) do, the difference in flow between the green ehiem outlets and even a cal aqua intake is really noticeable.

Light wise, I personally would be going for 3xt8 and running light from the start, also, sometimes it's worth putting a stem plant in there that will close it's leaves when it's had enough, I've started to use this method to decide the duration of my lights.

I personally haven't found hairgrass to be an algae magnet as long as when it's first planted you trim it really hard good maintainance is always key though.
Here's a good video showing good practice.
http://youtu.be/7qKcUIOBWIY

If the BBA got worse with the koralia do you know if your reg is producing a steady stream or if the diffuser may be inefficient? I also would say reduce the duration before lights come on and increase the rate of injection I've found that sometimes the co2 isn't going in quick enough when it's on too long before hand to keep levels stable.

The cheapest place I've found for filters is zooplus.de (not .co.uk) they still deliver to the uk but it's often a good fraction of the uk cost cheaper.

I'm sorry Hogan, but I don't really get the don't go lime thing, I've ran tanks that I have to get a yellow drop checker to get enough co2 into the water to stave of certain algae. Every tank is different, some might need more than the arbitrary 30ppm that we use as a guide just to keep plants healthy and I've certainly known this to be the case.

I know this might be controversial but might it be that the light is below the threshold so some species? If you could borrow a PAR metre that'd be a really great way of getting some hard and fast figure with which to work.
 
Are there any 'nicer' intakes? The TetraTec one is rather bulky and doesn't fit through the lid which is already hacked to bits for the lily pipes and lights :)

CO2 was as high as I could get it without the fish gasping.
 
Yes, I but I found a higher injection rate was possible if you reduce the period of time before lights on to around an hour.

Hmm, Cal aqua are the best of the lot but even then they're not as good as the clunky great intakes from filter manufacturers. The alternative would be to make some from acrylic I suppose.
 
I may re-look at the TetraTec pipes, if nothing else I'd be less scared of breaking them for a good clean :)
 
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