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Dwarf Cichlid Seclusion (Juwel Lido 120)

mark4785

Member
Joined
4 Jan 2011
Messages
451
Location
Derbyshire, UK.
I've acquired a new Juwel Aquarium which I'd like to transform into an aqua-scape that has the feel of a naturally propagated eco system, but one which also provides sufficient space and attractions (i.e. hiding spots and burrows) for a dwarf cichlid pair named Microgeophagus Ramirezi.

While I can and will do the latter confidently, I may need some help/pointers in achieving the former as it's my understanding that objects and plants have to be placed in just the right spot to create the illusion of a never-ending ecological environment (i.e. a river basin) rather than an artificial, unnatural and constrained tank of water with bits placed here and there!

I did a quick sketch of what I was hoping to achieve with the aquarium; while I have drawn the essence of what I want to place in the tank, their placement doesn't give it depth or a natural feel in my view:

I think the two front pieces of bog wood should have less height, should be placed more towards the foreground so there is space for plants to be placed behind them. I think the symmetrical look is primarily what has ruined the natural feel!

prospectiveaquarium.png






Here is a picture I took yesterday of the actual aquarium; so far it has the substrate installed. I want the substrate to be a consistent 2-2.5cm deep because the intended fauna are not purely bottom dwellers so they will not clean the substrate surface enough to remove the faeces and food that will seep down through the layers:

dsc06378t.jpg





Equipment:

  • Juwel Lido 120 model aquarium
  • Juwel EccoFlow 1000 (1000 LPH)
  • Dennerle Co2 500g canister (injected co2)
  • Super atomiser co2 diffuser
  • Dennerle PH/co2 computer
  • 2 x 24w 438mm fluorescent lights
  • Pearl drop-checker by CAL Aqua-labs
  • Fine Unipac fiji sand
  • Varied sizes of bog wood
  • Horiba nitrate meter






Plant List:
(Plant names that are crossed out will be added later)
  • Limnobium laevigatum
  • Eleocharis acicularis
  • Java fern
Plant suggestions are welcome!!






Fish Stock:
  • Microgeophagus Ramirezi pair
  • Microgeophagus Ramirezi fry (hopefully..)
Before stocking the aquarium, I will be using matured pond filtration media to kick start the nitrogen cycle and will plant heavily to safe guard the fishes against ammonia and nitrite.






Water Chemistry:
  • Carbonate hardness: 4 dH (may lower this with 50:50 tap water / RO water)
  • General hardness: 4 dH
  • pH: 5.5 - 6.0
  • Temperature: 27 degrees C
  • Nitrate 25 ppm






Fertiliser:
  • Macro nutrients will be made by myself with dry salts and tap water and added on alternate days.
  • Micro nutrients will be added on non-macro nutrient dosing days using a branded product.
 
I think you've a very nice start here. About the layout. The wood need to be placed on the golden ratio point to look more natural. Simply said, the cave opening should be at about 2/5th or 3/5th. On odd number of wood also make it more natural looking. Best way to do this would be with 3 smaller pieces of wood of different sizes. Third, they are standing up too firm, try placing the pieces of wood at a more natural angle. Try looking into 'iwagumi' stone placement. This does apply to your layout as well: Create an Iwagumi Aquascape

Good luck!
 
I think you've a very nice start here. About the layout. The wood need to be placed on the golden ratio point to look more natural. Simply said, the cave opening should be at about 2/5th or 3/5th. On odd number of wood also make it more natural looking. Best way to do this would be with 3 smaller pieces of wood of different sizes. Third, they are standing up too firm, try placing the pieces of wood at a more natural angle. Try looking into 'iwagumi' stone placement. This does apply to your layout as well: Create an Iwagumi Aquascape

Good luck!

Thank you for your advice and the URL provided.

I have on order several varied sizes of bog wood and will attempt to place these according to the rules set out in 'iwagumi aquascape'. May have to print the article out and follow it while I place the wood with it being a lengthy article.

Next time I post I should be able to indicate and show where I've put the bog wood and hopefully the amazon frogbit will be in too. There is a hazy look to the water which is a good sign of an algae bloom so I can't wait to get planted up.
 
Planting it first, before filling would have been easier, but either way, no problem. Good luck and post some pictures when done+'


At the time of filling I was planning to do a fishless ammonia cycle rather than transferring filter media in and planting. If I run into problems I'll just have to empty it.
 
Well all the pieces of bog wood that I require have arrived. The larger pieces are in while the smaller pieces are not in just yet.

I've had to do a big water change as the water went a yellowy brown colour from the tanins. I haven't placed the pieces in their final positions yet; when they are in their final positions I'd be grateful if the positioning could be appraised.

TXD4SS8.jpg
 
I was going to upload the final placement of the bog wood pieces today, however, the piece that is known as suteishi is floating on the surface. There must be some trapped air somewhere within it causing it to rise.

I've taken it out and applied boiling hot water in an attempt to dislodge the trapped air but i've had no luck!

Any suggestions?
 
Hey man. Some good wood in there. Personally, I'd move the taller of the pieces towards the background and have whatever is behind it (rock or bogwood?) in front, so literally just swap the lateral positions.
 
I am now looking into choosing a foreground plant and have been drawn towards Hemianthus callitrichoides. The growth rate seems quite fast which is something that I was looking for. However, I know that this plant only has small stems and was wondering if they anchor themselves quite robustly after a certain amount of time?​
The eventual fish stock that I wish to introduce (German rams) have ruined some of my past aquariums because they bite and rip out the HC.​
I would love to know if the HC becomes harder to uproot as they grow over a long period of time or if they always have a small and loose root layer.​
 
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