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Dennerle Diffuser vs Inline Diffuser

brads

Member
Joined
1 Oct 2013
Messages
75
Location
Co Down.
Hi all,​
I'm using the Dennerle Medium Flipper upto 300 ltrs: has anyone had the experience with the Dennerle, and what do they think?​
Dennerle flipper vs Inline Diffuser what would you recommend, and why?​
Regards​
Billy​
 
Hello,
These "ladder" type devices with cutesy names like Flipper, or Frodo, or Bilbo are not really serious. They are fine if you want to hypnotize unruly children with the zig-zag bubbles, but otherwise they should be avoided.

Do yourself a favor and start by porting the gas directly into your filter inlet and see how that goes. You can even use a cheap ceramic disk to get finer bubbles to go into the riser tube. If you don't like the look of that or if there are other issues then spring for an in-line device. If you are handy then you can make your own with nothing but PVC tubiing and glue. There a re a couple of DIY instructions on here showing how to fabricate:
My new DIY reactor project | UK Aquatic Plant Society
DIY Reactor Build | UK Aquatic Plant Society
High flow DIY reactor - now with video | UK Aquatic Plant Society
DIY Reactor - pictures, assembly and testing | UK Aquatic Plant Society
DIY Reactor | UK Aquatic Plant Society

These are just a few.

Cheers,
 
Thanks again for the info it's much appreciated.
Regards.
Billy

I will look at the DIY's


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Hi Ceg,
Flipper will be going to a good home lol. I have ordered an in-line diffuser.

This might be a stupid question..., if the inline diffuser is connected to the intake of the external filter, is there a need for a bubble counter? And if so.. where does it get connected to.

I already have an Aquamanta EFX 1000u external filter and have just recently purchased another Aquamanta EFX but this one is 1200lph still boxed and unopened.

That gives me a total of 2200 lph for a 240l aquarium. I understand I require 10 x flow rate.

The 1000u filter with the full length spray bar fitted, there is very little flow coming out, and not sure now that the 1200 is going to make much of a difference.

Should I return the 1200 and go for the 1500 lph. and connect the inline diffuser to the second filter as I really need for the gases to circulate all over.

I understand the flow rates are over rated.

Regards
Billy


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Hi Billy,
2200lph rating is good enough but you would be best served by attaching a shorter spraybar to each filter and capping the end of each short bar.

Cheers,
 
Thanks for the info Ceg.

Having a shorter spray bar will that only put the gases into one side of the aquarium?

When I connect the diffuser inline do I need a bubble counter and if so where do I connect.

Regards,

Billy
 
I think you need to forget about bubble counters. It's just one more thing that gets in the way.

When you use two filters, life gets a little complicated because now you have to feed CO2 to two locations. You can do that with a splitter or a "Y" joint in the gas line.

A splitter is the best way to go and there are many different varieties. Here is a typical example. You would mount this where the single needle valve would ordinarily be mounted at the end of the regulator. Now you would have two needle valves that would feed two lines, one each to the inlet of each filter or to each diffuser. This would be a much better investment than a bubble counter and would give you a more even distribution of gas to each half of the tank.
4493.jpg


As I mentioned, try direct feed to each filter inlet first and see how that works BEFORE spending more money on in-line devices.

Cheers,
 
Thanks Ceg.
Billy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
 
Certainly interesting reading on the DIY in line reactors. They seem to make a massive difference to the amount of CO2 actually absorbed.

I'm always striving to have the least joints possible outside of the tank but I may have to make an exception here.

Are the reactors best pre or post filter or doesn't it make any odds?

Cheers.
 
Depends on the design but most a\re fitted after the pump.
I realise that making a DIY reactor is not always the cheapest alternative but I strongly recommend using clear tubing as this is the best way to see how it is working & how any adjustments affect the design.
Clear pipe also allows you to see how much build up of gas you get & how long it takes to dissolve once the supply is turned off.
Some reactor will store large amounts of gas that might take an hour or more to dissolve, you really need to know this as the device could still be introducing C02 when the lights go out!
The problem with building clear reactors is the cost of clear PVC pipe, you can get Acrylic much cheaper but then you cant get end fittings or bends that fit!
If you are a very handy man then building reactors can be great fun but small, inside cabinet, models don't always work as well as expected.
 
Mileage may vary, but generally these are best inserted on the pressure side of the filter.
You can measure the effectiveness of the different positions by doing the pH drop down checks.
Issues such as gas buildup and filter burping have to be considered if the unit is placed on the suction side.

Cheers,
 
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