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diy cabinet finish options

Lindy

Member
Joined
29 Jun 2012
Messages
2,824
Location
Ayrshire, Scotland
Hi, i'm about to make a stand for a 80x60x40 tank. I've thought about painting but would ideally like a gloss finish, hard I know. Covering it in some sort of vinyl is another option but not sure what to buy/look for? I know you can get sticky back window vinyl but not sure it would suit this task. Help? Maybe I should make out of pine and stain and gloss?
 
Hi Lindy, I'm also considering a new cabinet (gloss look) :) I'm thinking of using mdf. finishing it with plasticote paint its not cheap but a can goes miles. I'd probably use plain old gloss on inside faces.
 
Have a look here

Sticky vinyl, fablon, wall graphics & tablecloths

I've used Fablon on both cabinets I've made with fairly good results, and I'm happy with them.

We got some high gloss vinyl from the above website to use on our kitchen cupboard doors, and provided you get the corners right you would never know that the doors didn't leave the factory that way. It's also a lot less hassle than painting.

I can say that with confidence as I was a manager for a kitchen company, and have designed, sold and fitted kitchens for a number of years now.




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I have had very good mirror like finishes on MDF by rollering on MDF sealer, emulsion paint & clear varnish. Fine sand paper (flour paper ?) between each coat and use the rollers (and tray) once, and throw them away or else you will end up "bits" in next coat. If careful, final varnish coat looks like its been sprayed on and is perfectly mirror flat. Make sure each coat is "thin" enough to cover and not thick enough to run and produce ridges and ripples.
 
Apart from spraying it is still possible to get a very high gloss finish on MDF.
Two pack polyurethane paints can offer an incredible deep lustre & can be taken to an even higher level with cutting compounds & polish.
To obtain really shinny finishes the paint is best applied buy a foam roller & tips off with a quality brush however it is not a two minute job & needs a certain amount of skill & patients. The final layer of paint needs to be very flat to give absolutely no shadow & a deep shine, by applying numerous thin coats this can be achieved though. :)
Two pack polyurethane paint is expensive though at around £35 a litre & undercoat around £25 a litre.
 
I have sealed mdf with the resin you get with the grp repair kits. Seals it well you have to work fast and you need plenty of rollers. Then flat with 800grade and paint, I've done this on speaker boxes . It's easier if you lay all your bits out first.
 
Not a bad idea :)It will be cheap at car body specialist if you know them or they are using that colour on the day. Most shops want £30+ to do an alloy wheel these days. You won't be able to beat a bake room job for durability.:)
 
Wow, thanks for all the ideas! Have looked at spray paint and have ordered some vinyl samples from an ebay seller. Will look at all other options suggested.

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Wallace, thanks for the link, I think that may be the company to buy from. Always great to get a recommendation. How would you suggest doing the corners as I did anticipate this would be the tricky bit. I will buy extra to have a play with.


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Aron_dip no worries, I understand you are busy.

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The Plasti-Kote spray paint (B&Q, £8 a tin) along with proper MDF sealer does a fantastic job (don't prime with diluted PVA as not recommend, seals surface too well and prevents paint penetrating and doesn't sand properly).

Plasti-kote, Welcome to the home of spray paint

Need to set yourself up a protected area to spray. Outside might be OK, but wind, passing insects, dust, cold etc all work against you. I sprayed my MDF sheets in the garage, making a "spray booth" out of dust sheets hung from the ceiling (to protect everything else in the garage..). Also lit with 500W lights so I could see what I was doing, heated with fan heater and hung all the MDF pieces from the ceiling so easy to work with.

Remember to turn off fan heater before spraying as a fire risk. Eye protection and face mask are essential or you will be coughing up stuff the same colour as your sprayed for next couple of days.

Just spray numerous thin coats 5-10minutes apart (or what ever can says). If you leave to dry too long next coat either won't stick or will eat into the layer below....

Leave 24 hours before adding protective spray varnish coat.

You will need far too many cans than you initially guessed at. I am sure it said 1 can does 1 coat for 2 square meters. I used about 6 cans for a baby changing unit/cupboard (same size'ish as 90cm tank unit) and 2 cans of sealing varnish.

Unit looked the doogies danglers and was easy to wipe clean etc. The other unit I worked on I rollered (as described above) as spraying was far too expensive and time consuming.
 
All best to buy more cans than needed, keep your receipt and take back what you don't use.:)
 
It's easier if you lay all your bits out first.
I'll make sure my bits are all out...

coughing up stuff the same colour as your sprayed
I think for this reason I'll maybe try your other method. I don't have a garage and I do have a 3yr old who will want to 'help'. I can have a practice first.
 
The Plasti-Kote spray paint (B&Q, £8 a tin) along with proper MDF sealer does a fantastic job (don't prime with diluted PVA as not recommend, seals surface too well and prevents paint penetrating and doesn't sand properly).

Plasti-kote, Welcome to the home of spray paint

Need to set yourself up a protected area to spray. Outside might be OK, but wind, passing insects, dust, cold etc all work against you. I sprayed my MDF sheets in the garage, making a "spray booth" out of dust sheets hung from the ceiling (to protect everything else in the garage..). Also lit with 500W lights so I could see what I was doing, heated with fan heater and hung all the MDF pieces from the ceiling so easy to work with.

Remember to turn off fan heater before spraying as a fire risk. Eye protection and face mask are essential or you will be coughing up stuff the same colour as your sprayed for next couple of days.

Just spray numerous thin coats 5-10minutes apart (or what ever can says). If you leave to dry too long next coat either won't stick or will eat into the layer below....

Leave 24 hours before adding protective spray varnish coat.

You will need far too many cans than you initially guessed at. I am sure it said 1 can does 1 coat for 2 square meters. I used about 6 cans for a baby changing unit/cupboard (same size'ish as 90cm tank unit) and 2 cans of sealing varnish.

Unit looked the doogies danglers and was easy to wipe clean etc. The other unit I worked on I rollered (as described above) as spraying was far too expensive and time consuming.


Sounds great that, did u sand in beetween or not also did u spray both sides of Mdf and then fit it all together once painted ?


Thanks Dean
 
Sounds great that, did u sand in between or not also did u spray both sides of Mdf and then fit it all together once painted ?
No you can't sand between coats with spray paint, as you have to spray the next coat before previous coat is 100% set (less than 30minutes ??).

I sprayed the unit disassembled, into parts, all hung from a beam of wood in the garage and did spray both sides of all panels though thinner paint and one coat of varnish on inside shelves/panels to save paint/varnish. Either attach screws to backs of panels or use your MDF fixings, cover fixing in masking tape and attach string to hang up.

Make sure you have all cans of paint ready on hand, shake at least 2 at a time (or get an assistant to be shaking/prepping next can whilst you spray) so you spray uninterrupted. Kitchen towel to clean nozzles if required.

Months later kept finding areas of "blue dust" in the garage where the DIY spray booth wasn't as air tight as I thought :eek:

Would I spray again....NO. Very very expensive in cans of paint. You could almost buy a compressor and spray attachment for the price of all the cans. Very messy & dusty. BUT finish is superb and tough.

This is why other unit was roller painted as much quicker, can be done with unit assembled and considerably cheaper. You use emulsion paint (under final varnish coat) as bigger choice of colours available (and can match the spray cans I used) and can be sanded mirror smooth between coats.
 
Thanks for that, I might go roller or vinyl if find out how to do seamless edges lol


Thanks Dean
 
hanks for that, I might go roller or vinyl if find out how to do seamless edges lol
Problem with vinyl, apart from affixing it bubble free in the first place, is many years down the line often the glue appears to soften, ooze at the edges, its shrink back a bit and bubbles appear.
 
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