Scapers Tank Aquascape Attempt (Looking for C&C)

[LukeDaly]

Hey guys,

Started a new scape, with what I personally think is an awesome piece of wood.

Equipment:
Tank - 50 Liter Scaper's Tank
Light - 24 Watt Scapers Light
Co2 - 2kg FE with co2 art regulator and solenoid (Should I dose liquid co2 as well?)
Filter - Fluval 306 with carbon removed
Dosing - EI Dosing 10ml a day alternating days and a 50% water change every Sunday

Ok.. so that is the current list of equipment I have. Now for some photos. (Excuse the quality I took them with my phone)

Overall I think it looks ok, nothing on par with what I see on this forum tho but I like a challenge.
What C&C have you got for me? Anything you would personally change?

Any equipment you would recommend getting to make life easier / make the tank look better.
I have some lilly pipes ready to be fitted. And I am thinking about getting a Digital PH Reader.

I was thinking of maybe adding a grass type plant or something to carpet the rear right of the tank, from behind the piece of wood to the filter intake? What are the opinions on this?

Also this is my first time trying to grow Dwarf Baby Tears, how does it look? My co2 is currently sitting at around 2bps is this too much? I used three pots up front if that helps. If I cant get the DBT to grow in or if my tank conditions aren't great would Monte Carlo be a better option?

I understand that I may be doing some things wrong or that I may have jumped in at the deep end but thats why I am asking you guys to help me out everyone here is friendly enough and will help point me in the right direction. I am willing to spend money this is not a budget build as such I have saved up a bit of cash to help get me back into the hobby. Saying that my previous tank was only a little fluval spec V that you can have a look at in my imgur gallery if you like. It was dirted and I just used easycarbo & profito.

I intend to keep this as a progress thread as well as a journal. (I wish I had of took photos from the start but as I am sure many of you know when the post man arrives with new gear photos are the last thing on your mind.)

Thanks in advance to anyone with an input!
Luke.

 

[DivZero]

Hi Luke,

First off: beautiful scape and I especially love the wood!

I am also just a beginner when it comes to high(er)-tech tanks, but as many people helped me out I'll do my best for you

Regarding liquid CO2: I would say yes. I dose liquid CO2 because it's good for the plants (don't overdose!!) but I mainly add it because it's toxic for algae at the recommended dosing regime and helps keep algae at bay. But beware, it's toxic for just about everything else when you overdose. Also... don't drink it

I'm not sure if you have enough light to get a nice carpet of HC (aka DBT). Also not sure if it would be enough for Monte Carlo. However MC is said to be an easier plant, and that's why I got MC instead of HC. So far I've not regretted my decision and I love this little plant! If you light isn't enough you could always add another scrapers light, but I would ask for other people's advice regarding lighting.

About your CO2 bps: the bubble count isn't really important. The amount of dissolved CO2 is. This is why you have your drop checker. I looks a bit dark to me, but the photo can be deceiving. You should look up what color it should be for the right amount of CO2. Aim for around 30ppm CO2.

How long has you tank been running when the photo was taken? Or was it just setup? Also, at what temperature are you running? The photo shows 19.1C, but maybe you just filled it up with cold water

I personally would not go for an pH meter right away, you have you drop checker, which is nothing more than an analogue pH meter that shifts color to indicate the pH. Depending on how high-tech you want to run your tank you will probably be better of either getting another light or a stronger filter. It was a shock to me when I first found out, but a minimum of 10 times turnover of your tanks volume per hour is recommended. Which on your case would be 500+ liters and your filter is rated at 300 liter.

I hope this helps! And if anyone disagrees with me, please let me know, I'm not claiming to be an expert.

 

[Jose]

f you have CO2 bubbles going over the carpet plant then it shall grow.

 

[darren636]

Looks good so far
I'd like to see the rock work take a more prominent role

 

[LukeDaly]

Hi Luke,

First off: beautiful scape and I especially love the wood!

I am also just a beginner when it comes to high(er)-tech tanks, but as many people helped me out I'll do my best for you

Regarding liquid CO2: I would say yes. I dose liquid CO2 because it's good for the plants (don't overdose!!) but I mainly add it because it's toxic for algae at the recommended dosing regime and helps keep algae at bay. But beware, it's toxic for just about everything else when you overdose. Also... don't drink it

I'm not sure if you have enough light to get a nice carpet of HC (aka DBT). Also not sure if it would be enough for Monte Carlo. However MC is said to be an easier plant, and that's why I got MC instead of HC. So far I've not regretted my decision and I love this little plant! If you light isn't enough you could always add another scrapers light, but I would ask for other people's advice regarding lighting.

About your CO2 bps: the bubble count isn't really important. The amount of dissolved CO2 is. This is why you have your drop checker. I looks a bit dark to me, but the photo can be deceiving. You should look up what color it should be for the right amount of CO2. Aim for around 30ppm CO2.

How long has you tank been running when the photo was taken? Or was it just setup? Also, at what temperature are you running? The photo shows 19.1C, but maybe you just filled it up with cold water

I personally would not go for an pH meter right away, you have you drop checker, which is nothing more than an analogue pH meter that shifts color to indicate the pH. Depending on how high-tech you want to run your tank you will probably be better of either getting another light or a stronger filter. It was a shock to me when I first found out, but a minimum of 10 times turnover of your tanks volume per hour is recommended. Which on your case would be 500+ liters and your filter is rated at 300 liter.

I hope this helps! And if anyone disagrees with me, please let me know, I'm not claiming to be an expert.

Thank you!

I have a bottle of EasyCarbo left over from my first tank, would you recommend dosing this at a regular dose even when using compressed Co2? Haha ill try my best not to get to thirsty

Its that beautiful carpet that everyone wants that I am aiming for! So ill do everything I can to make it work! Yeah I had thought about adding another Scapers light but its quite hard to get a hold of over here on its own and not with the kit. Luckily I get on very well with my LFS and they sorted me out took a few months to come in tho!

Its definitely green been making sure it doesn't turn yellow on me. Saying that ive never seen it turn blue again since the first day I put it in, should it be going green each night?

I literally took them photos about 2 minutes before making this post its been running from the 23rd of December Yeah the tank is sitting at about 19C this is probably to low and I am planning on getting a hydor inline heater

I didn't think id need a new filter I was told that the one I have is already overkill? My water is literally crystal clear!

Of course it helps man thanks very much for taking the time to reply!

f you have CO2 bubbles going over the carpet plant then it shall grow.

They are definitely going over it, perhaps you mean sticking to it?

Looks good so far
I'd like to see the rock work take a more prominent role

Do you mean bigger rocks? Or more rocks?
I do have another bunch of rock and I can quite easily get some more or larger pieces in my LFS.

 

[darren636]

The rocks seem squashed under the wood, that's all.

 

[Jose]

They are definitely going over it, perhaps you mean sticking to it?

Not necessarily. CO2 bubbles going near it. The water through which a co2 bubble is travelling has got CO2 dissolved in it. Plus gaseous CO2 is very accesible for plants. If you can manage this and dose enough ammount of ferts and light is not very very low (which it probably isnt) then its all sorted.

Also sometimes putting the difuser nearer the surface makes it easier for the flow to push the bubbles down to the ground. You might have already noticed this.

 

[DivZero]

Yeah, just the regular dose of EasyCarbo. The term "liquid CO2" is just fancy marketing. The active ingredient in in EasyCarbo have little to do with CO2. Thus dosing EasyCarbo will not increase your CO2 concentration in the water and not suffocate your (future) livestock or anything.

What's important about the drop checker is the right color when the lights are on, so your plants have the right amount of CO2 to do their photosynthesis. Please note, the drop checker can take about 2 hours to catch up with the actual pH/CO2 level.

About the filter. It's perfectly fine for the filtration part of the filter. As I understand it, you need it to achieve good flow in the aquarium which enables you to get CO2 and other nutrients to all your plants. But for now I would just see how it goes with your current filter

 

[LukeDaly]

Not necessarily. CO2 bubbles going near it. The water through which a co2 bubble is travelling has got CO2 dissolved in it. Plus gaseous CO2 is very accesible for plants. If you can manage this and dose enough ammount of ferts and light is not very very low (which it probably isnt) then its all sorted.

Also sometimes putting the difuser nearer the surface makes it easier for the flow to push the bubbles down to the ground. You might have already noticed this.

Awesome, I noticed that having the filter outlet closer to the surface caused more bubbles to be pushed down so ive been sticking with that for the time being!

Yeah, just the regular dose of EasyCarbo. The term "liquid CO2" is just fancy marketing. The active ingredient in in EasyCarbo have little to do with CO2. Thus dosing EasyCarbo will not increase your CO2 concentration in the water and not suffocate your (future) livestock or anything.

What's important about the drop checker is the right color when the lights are on, so your plants have the right amount of CO2 to do their photosynthesis. Please note, the drop checker can take about 2 hours to catch up with the actual pH/CO2 level.

About the filter. It's perfectly fine for the filtration part of the filter. As I understand it, you need it to achieve good flow in the aquarium which enables you to get CO2 and other nutrients to all your plants. But for now I would just see how it goes with your current filter

Sweet ill start dosing with EasyCarbo again tmo! I understand, hopefully when I add the lily pipes I will notice a little more flow! if not it is always easier to add a small power head than replace the filter!

Thanks

 

[DivZero]

if not it is always easier to add a small power head than replace the filter

Indeed, and cheaper

 

[Jose]

Sweet ill start dosing with EasyCarbo again tmo! I understand, hopefully when I add the lily pipes I will notice a little more flow! if not it is always easier to add a small power head than replace the filter!

Are you sure you need more flow? How strong is your filter? I would better spend my money in an inline atomizer (or even an intank one) in your place. Just saying that its not just about muscle flow cause your tank may start to look unnatural with so much flow (thats just my humble opinion).

 

[LukeDaly]

Indeed, and cheaper

Indeed well I just got the lily pipes out there now and I already have the clear tubing! So the Girlfriend has been roped into taking me to get me a hydor inline heater tomorrow haha! What model should I be looking at for a tank this size?

Are you sure you need more flow? How strong is your filter? I would better spend my money in an inline atomizer (or even an intank one) in your place. Just saying that its not just about muscle flow cause your tank may start to look unnatural with so much flow (thats just my humble opinion).

No I am not to sure yet, going to fit the lily pipes tomorrow after a trip to the LFS to see if I can pick up a hydor inline heater after that I will be able to decide if flow is an issue I doubt it is at the minute. But if I really need a second opinion ill set up the good camera and get a video recorded .

 

[darren636]

Hydor make 200 and 300 watt heaters.
So 200 watt will be fine. If you can find them

 

[Andy Thurston]

Hc does OK in fairly low light had it in a tank with liquid carbon at 3.5X dose Otto's and amano shrimp seemed OK
I currently dose lc 5ml into a 60l tank and drop checker is yellow throughout the photoperiod and all the livestock is healthy although Otto's gills are red from the high co2 concentration
IMO pH meters are a must have when pushing co2 limits and don't buy one of the yellow cheapys from eBay
Nice tank BTW

 

[LukeDaly]

Hydor make 200 and 300 watt heaters.
So 200 watt will be fine. If you can find them

I know my LFS sells them but im not sure if they will have a 200 watt version tho. I can find a 300 watt for £47 delivered the next day on the net. So unless my LFS can beat that price in the morning ill have to order it.

Hc does OK in fairly low light had it in a tank with liquid carbon at 3.5X dose Otto's and amano shrimp seemed OK
I currently dose lc 5ml into a 60l tank and drop checker is yellow throughout the photoperiod and all the livestock is healthy although Otto's gills are red from the high co2 concentration
IMO pH meters are a must have when pushing co2 limits and don't buy one of the yellow cheapys from eBay
Nice tank BTW

I'm defo going to start dosing liquid carbon along with my co2. I never knew that dosing both would make a difference, glad I asked! I do have 4 Otto's in there so hopefully this wont cause them any harm!

Are there any PH meters you would recommend? And thanks for the comment man, means a lot!

 

[Andy Thurston]

I use a Hannah one but there are cheaper ones that work well too.

 

[LukeDaly]

I use a Hannah one but there are cheaper ones that work well too.

I'll check them out!

 

[TallDragon]

Luke,
Lovely tank. I will follow the 'attempt' with interest.
Was there a specific reason, you chose not to use the Dennerle Scaper's flow filter, that comes with the kit? Did you get the tank and light separately? Why did you choose the Fluval 306.

 

[LukeDaly]

Luke,
Lovely tank. I will follow the 'attempt' with interest.
Was there a specific reason, you chose not to use the Dennerle Scaper's flow filter, that comes with the kit? Did you get the tank and light separately? Why did you choose the Fluval 306.

Thanks man very much appreciated!
I didn't want or have the room for it to hang of the back tbh! I am a student so I don't really have that much living space especially since my computer takes up half of the room lol! I also loved the clean look of lily pipes in the high end tanks I see on here, and around this time last year the fluval 306 was on sale in my LFS for a great price so I picked it up!

Currently have the carbon removed as the bag seemed to rip open.. Considering purigen but the water is spotless anyway.

Yeah, I bought the tank on the Internet after Christmas last year (easy enough) as I didn't want the substrate / filter etc and thought it would have been simple enough to get a light on its own but apparently it wasn't so easy.. After looking at several options I was recommended the scapers light anyway and decided to have one ordered into my LFS.. Took a while but got here eventually!

Really appreciate the reply, actually all the responses I am getting are making me feel better about the whole high tech tank thing! Super exciting! Thanks everyone.

 

[LukeDaly]

Quick update, grabbed myself a bag of purigen in the LFS gonna install it tmo when doing tank maintenance.

Also I have been reading about Hydor heaters a little more before I bite the bullet, are these still overheating on people? Even newer batches?

I also found and lost a thread again on using an STC-1000 Temperature controller as a fail safe for Hydor heaters, has anyone tried this and can explain to me how it works im guessing the controller uses its own probe and shuts the unit off if the temperature gets to high? How long is the probe, would I need the unit to be sitting close to the tank?

Thanks again guys,
Luke.