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Algae advice

peter.k

Member
Joined
17 Oct 2015
Messages
32
Hi everyone! I need some help with green algae.
I have AquaNano one 40 aquarium
filter :Eheim bioMech filter media with Fluval Biomax rings
light: Finnex FugeRay Planted + Aqua LED light plus Moonlights
light timer: was 8 hours now just down to 7
co2 start at 12:00
light go on at 14:00
co2 got off at 19:00
light go off at 21:00


co2
: sodastream cylinder / Regulator/ Solenoid / Atomizer 70mm Bazooka Diffuser (3 bps) Green drop checker

Plant Food
:Tropica Specialised Fertiliser / Tropica premium fertiliser
1 pump of Specialised on Monday
1 pump of premium Tu
1 pump of specialised We and so on
0 on Sunday
I have problem with Bacopa bottom leaves and Alternanthera green spots
6C7QZXe.jpg

YyR7sqB.jpg


Java Moss and HC are fine

IkTlIdc.jpg

jLsV6a2.jpg


Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'm planing to order Ei Starter Kit and replace me tropica fertiliser.








 
Hi Peter,

I can't see the diffuser on the picture... Where is it?
Is your flow OK?
When I had algae problem, the main reason was poor co2 distribution around the tank... You should see the tiny bubbles going all around the tank.
If you can, turn the lights down a bit until the flow problem is sorted.


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Manuel I just tested and its 0ppm.
I do water change every Saturday 20-30%
Can any of you recommend small powerhead for nano aquarium for flow.?
 
Hi Manu.
Bazooka Diffuser is next to red arrow.
jarEUoF.jpg
Hi Peter,

Having a look at this article from Clive:

http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=dosing-with-dry-salts

I'm quite new to this but if I understood correctly you should have 20ppm of nitrates a week, so if you test your water, it shouldn't be at 0ppm.

Concerning the diffusion, your bazooka seems to be in corner, surrounded by tall plants. I can imagine that's some plants in the opposite side might not get enough co2. Is There enough flow? Can you see the mist going around the tank?

It might be helpful to send a video, easier understand your set up.

Maybe someone else has a better idea...

Cheers,
Manu


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Hi Peter

I found nano cubes particularly difficult to work with when going high tech. Flow is difficult in this geometry and especially using in-tank filters. I improved quite a lot my problem with co2 by changing to an external and more powerful filter. This ensures that you can play with a spraybar all along the back, use an outlet in a back corner with muscle enough to move all the plants and at all levels, etc.
Don't get fooled by nitrates tests, as expert members have explained in this forum, nitrates tests are useless as they usually measure many other things, thus the results are inaccurate and in most of the cases inconsistent. You just have to understand that your tank need nutrients and you are probably doing it right with the Tropica ferts range (don't throw them, they are ok, molecules are molecules both dissolved or in dry powders, the costed you money... used them!). Depending on your light, they will be no need to dose high amounts of ferts. In that sense EI is not going to be necessary the solution. If it is finally a matter o low ferts, just dose more... Actually try dosing a bit more and see what happens. Another important issue will be your soil. Is it an enriched soil (AquaSoil type)? If so, you won't really need high amounts of ferts in the water column as they will be provided via roots).

More questions: do you use a dropchecker? Does it change the colour as it is expected? BBA and structural damage (what I can see in your pictures) is a typical symptom of low co2 performance, that means, unstable supply, low amount and/or poor distribution.

Personally I would first address co2. You have to see the co2 micro bubbles turning all around your cube, all your plants gently moving and a lime green dropchecker (not necessarily yellow, remember that it takes 2-3 hours to change its colour). Once you achieve all this revise your fert regime. IME once co2 is ok, ferts are a minor issue (I don't mean they are unnecessary, they actually are... but that the amount provided and timing won't be so important. I uses to be very strict with dosing, Now I dose what I have, when I can, etc. just making sure plants have enough food. They may be some changes in the growth rate, but it will not determine if your tank is healthy or not)

Jordi
 
Hi Peter

Now I am on my computer and I can see the pictures properly. I can see your in-built filter, your AquaSoil type substrate and I have also read your comments about the drop checker.... Apologies for posting without paying attention to this.

Anyway, as mentioned in my previous email, I would work on Co2. I am not sure if the outflow, which cannot be changed in your tank, is able to blow the co2 micro bubbles all around the tank. When I use in-tank diffuser I try to "throw" the bubbles against the plant mass. I place it in different positions until a find the best one for reaching all the plants homogeneously. Sometimes this is achieved by forcing the bubbles to go downwards, to one of the corners of the tank, changing the outflow direction, changing the diffuser position, etc. It is really incredible how minimum changes can change the co2 distribution.

Another tip is to move your DC to different positions in the tank, in that case close to the bottom and next to the two plants that are suffering. Try it and see if the co2 there is good enough. In all my tanks, the DC is placed during the first weeks in the worst positions. I adjust the co2 performance for these critical points. Curiously, when my DC reaches the lime green I want in these critical positions, it is nearly yellow in the "standard" position (the position in which we see DCs in the pictures, upper part of the tank). But 90% of the plant biomass is not usually at the "standard" position level, but in the critical areas, so what you need to ensure is optimum levels there.

If it is an enriched substrate (it looks to me it is), you are ensuring a good nutrition to plants (via roots and leaching to the water column). As mentioned I would first use the ferts you purchased which are good. Try with the recommended dose (maybe this is what you are doing...) but remember that dosing amounts are just recommendations. If you have a look to Tropica Youtube channel you will see that once the tanks are established (healthy and high biomass), they are using 2-3-4x the recommended doses.

Hope it helps :)

Jordi
 
Thanks for all of this. Im still trying to figure out everything really. I've been reading and reading and reading. I have dicided to go for canister filter to improve flow. What do you guys think about Hydor professional external filter? or would you recommend me something different? Maybe with Hydor Koralia Nano 900 Circulation pump? I can now see that not all of my plant are moving. Because of atomic co2 diffuser, my aquarium is full with micro bubles but there is not proper flow
I have Colombo Florabase substrate

 
Hi Peter

I also changed from an in-tank corner filter to a canister. My nano cube is 25 liters and I bought a JBL e401 (400 lph, fully packed with media about 250 lph), an excellent piece of equipment which can be used with no problem with this small tank but that will also work in larger tanks (if you want to change in the future). It is very silent and I think it has the lowest power consumption in the market. You can regulate the flow and includes security valves system for cleaning the pipes without having to clean the canister. It comes with different outlets. The inflow will be probably too large for such a small tank and will need to be cut. I use it both with these black outlet devices and with the CalAqua Nano lily pipes.
Flow rate, consumption, easy cleaning are the main aspects to focus when choosing a canister filter... I would not use an Hydor Loral Nano 900 circulation pump in such a small tank. I had one and even in my 60 cm tank it looked enormous.

Jordi
 
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