• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Hygrophila problem.

Seebo1993

Seedling
Joined
9 Nov 2016
Messages
2
Location
West Yorkshire
Hi Everyone,

I am new to the forum, thanks for having me!

I am in desperate need of some advice. I had bought some hygrophilia online but have had nothing but disappointment with them! I bought them as i read they are easy to look after and not demanding. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

For substrate I used 'Dennerle NutriBasis 6 in 1 Aquarium Substrate' about 2.5" covered with around 2.5" of sand also.

I have a Fluval Roma 240 which run T8 lighting along with 2x Interpet LED Light Strips. The lights are on 9 hours per day. I have been dosing TNC Complete Fertiliser (5ml) per week and TNC Carbon (4ml per day) now reduced to 2ml per day as I thought I maybe overdosing the carbon. I had also added some tetra plant fetilizer tablets, near the roots of the plants. The water temp is at 25c.

I read that plants that are bought online are usually grown out of the water take time to adjust?

Tank Readings:
Amonnia = 0ppm
Nitrite = 0ppm
Nitrate = 40ppm

Stock:
20 Tiger Barbs
5 Stebai Cory
1 Bristlenose


Any advice is appreciated as I really want to get into the world of planted tanks!

Thanks Everyone
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20161126-WA0000.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0000.jpg
    95.2 KB · Views: 382
  • IMG-20161126-WA0002.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0002.jpg
    258.9 KB · Views: 248
  • IMG-20161126-WA0001.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0001.jpg
    110.3 KB · Views: 238
  • IMG-20161126-WA0004.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0004.jpg
    139.2 KB · Views: 287
  • IMG-20161126-WA0003.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0003.jpg
    146.6 KB · Views: 218
  • IMG-20161126-WA0005.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0005.jpg
    130.6 KB · Views: 236
  • IMG-20161126-WA0006.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0006.jpg
    148.7 KB · Views: 236
  • IMG-20161126-WA0007.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0007.jpg
    137.6 KB · Views: 225
  • IMG-20161126-WA0008.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0008.jpg
    131.5 KB · Views: 237
  • IMG-20161126-WA0009.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0009.jpg
    196.4 KB · Views: 253
  • IMG-20161126-WA0010.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0010.jpg
    102.1 KB · Views: 211
  • IMG-20161126-WA0011.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0011.jpg
    105.3 KB · Views: 229
  • IMG-20161126-WA0012.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0012.jpg
    114.8 KB · Views: 231
  • IMG-20161126-WA0013.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0013.jpg
    129 KB · Views: 231
  • IMG-20161126-WA0016.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0016.jpg
    166.4 KB · Views: 208
  • IMG-20161126-WA0014.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0014.jpg
    136.4 KB · Views: 237
  • IMG-20161126-WA0017.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0017.jpg
    196.7 KB · Views: 259
  • IMG-20161126-WA0015.jpg
    IMG-20161126-WA0015.jpg
    140.7 KB · Views: 225
Hello seebo!
I too had problems with hygrophila for months, the algae on the leaves I think is caused by over dosing nutrients as T8 bulbs aren't as powerful they aren't forcing the plants to grow as quickly as they can, which is not a bad thing as too much light things can get ugly real quick!

The bare stems I also think is caused by the lighting not been powerful enough as I have a hygrophila 53B and only the shaded or base of the stem that no light reaches are bare

What sort of water changes do you do? When I was running T8 bulbs I never dosed any form of fertiliser and the plants grew slowly but seemed healthy

What can be happening if you only do small water changes is all the fertiliser you are adding you are only removing a small amount therefore it can all build up!
Yes many plants are grown emersed out of water but take around 2 weeks to adapt with stem plants once the top grows the bottom maybe begin to degrade at this point I cut the healthy top part off and discard the bottom part

Spectrum of lighting can be a big factor I too own a Fluval Roma but the 125 and the T8 bulbs I did have one was around 9000k which is alright for plants but then the other was around 15000k which isn't as good for plants I think the best spectrum is 6500k for plants as this replicates the sun and promotes photosynthesis I upgraded my tank to 4 T5 bulbs at 24 Watts per bulb.

I hope any of the information helps and is based on my own experience
Luke! :D
 
Hello seebo!
I too had problems with hygrophila for months, the algae on the leaves I think is caused by over dosing nutrients as T8 bulbs aren't as powerful they aren't forcing the plants to grow as quickly as they can, which is not a bad thing as too much light things can get ugly real quick!

The bare stems I also think is caused by the lighting not been powerful enough as I have a hygrophila 53B and only the shaded or base of the stem that no light reaches are bare

What sort of water changes do you do? When I was running T8 bulbs I never dosed any form of fertiliser and the plants grew slowly but seemed healthy

What can be happening if you only do small water changes is all the fertiliser you are adding you are only removing a small amount therefore it can all build up!
Yes many plants are grown emersed out of water but take around 2 weeks to adapt with stem plants once the top grows the bottom maybe begin to degrade at this point I cut the healthy top part off and discard the bottom part

Spectrum of lighting can be a big factor I too own a Fluval Roma but the 125 and the T8 bulbs I did have one was around 9000k which is alright for plants but then the other was around 15000k which isn't as good for plants I think the best spectrum is 6500k for plants as this replicates the sun and promotes photosynthesis I upgraded my tank to 4 T5 bulbs at 24 Watts per bulb.

I hope any of the information helps and is based on my own experience
Luke! :D

I'm 99.9% sure ferts don't cause algae at all, see here , I'm also 99.9% sure that spectrum has negligible effects on plant growth. All plants care about is how much energy they're receiving in the form of PAR from those bulbs, and that they're getting enough nutrients in the form of carbon and NPK to support that growth. More likely you have issues with your flow, or there is an issue with your husbandry, i.e not enough water changes, inadequate removal of detritus. If ferts caused algae then the E.I system of dosing would be a nightmare.
 
I thought that the EI system was based on large water changes at the end of the week to remove excess nutrients and help resetting the nutrient load? Fertiliser would feed algae but it's a balance between the plants using all the right nutrients to starve the algae. I maybe incorrect but this is what I have been lead to believe
 
I thought that the EI system was based on large water changes at the end of the week to remove excess nutrients and help resetting the nutrient load? Fertiliser would feed algae but it's a balance between the plants using all the right nutrients to starve the algae. I maybe incorrect but this is what I have been lead to believe

Yes, to an extent that is true. I'm not sure of the exact reasons for making large water changes without doing a ton of reading. You're right that it's about balance and having a good relationship between you're lighting, ferts and carbon. I'd love for one of the more experienced guys to pop onto the thread and explain in better, more knowledgeable detail.
 
Hi, I've a Roma 240 too with stock lighting t8 too. Mr Hindley is correct - kelvin is a measure of colour temperature not spectrum & doesn't affect plant growth - we choose this based on what is most 'appealing to our eyes. The best way to increase output of t8 bulbs is to add reflectors (or upgrade).
E.I dosing is usually used when adding co2 & usually associated with higher light set ups, although not always. If your adding co2 your tank 'technically' falls into high tech - although I find it weird to think a retro roma like mine could ever be considered high tech! Anyways, as John mentioned TNC's recommended dose is 1ml per 10 litres - so 24mls for this tank. Though if you'd like to achieve E.I levels of dosing ferts, using tnc complete, you would need to dose 24ml 3 times per week.
In a high tech plant growth is expected to be faster so 50% water changes are usually useful to remove decaying plant matter, detritus, organics and tds from the tank to prevent algae rather than remove excess fertilisers ☺
 
e82a0ab837b00f3970f800f36eca7501.jpg


Is this how manganese deficiency looks like?

Obviously something wrong with your plants. Plants requirements :
Energy : light. Only some light in blue and red spectrum can be used
Nutrient
Macro: nitrogen, carbon, phosphorus, potassium
Micro : other minerals such as boron, zinc magnesium calcium manganese etc.
Feeding mode: root feeder or feed from water column
Transportation of macro and micro : good water flow or rich nutrient.
Environment : water hardness, pH,temperature etc.


I think these are the basic aspects of plants. Any improvement should take sometime to show result.
Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Probably potassium deficient. Just increase your ferts by twice. Keep carbon same. Reduce light to 7 hours. Weekly 50% water changes.
 
Probably potassium deficient. Just increase your ferts by twice. Keep carbon same. Reduce light to 7 hours. Weekly 50% water changes.
The author using TNC complete which do not have potassium. I think you are right, potassium deficiency

Maybe you can buy ready mix potassium or buy potassium sulphate powder as cheap alternative

Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk
 
The author using TNC complete which do not have potassium. I think you are right, potassium deficiency

Maybe you can buy ready mix potassium or buy potassium sulphate powder as cheap alternative

Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk
Oh snap! I thought COMPLETE meant what COMPLETE usually means.
 
Hi Everyone,

I am new to the forum, thanks for having me!

I am in desperate need of some advice. I had bought some hygrophilia online but have had nothing but disappointment with them! I bought them as i read they are easy to look after and not demanding. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

For substrate I used 'Dennerle NutriBasis 6 in 1 Aquarium Substrate' about 2.5" covered with around 2.5" of sand also.

I have a Fluval Roma 240 which run T8 lighting along with 2x Interpet LED Light Strips. The lights are on 9 hours per day. I have been dosing TNC Complete Fertiliser (5ml) per week and TNC Carbon (4ml per day) now reduced to 2ml per day as I thought I maybe overdosing the carbon. I had also added some tetra plant fetilizer tablets, near the roots of the plants. The water temp is at 25c.

I read that plants that are bought online are usually grown out of the water take time to adjust?

Tank Readings:
Amonnia = 0ppm
Nitrite = 0ppm
Nitrate = 40ppm

Stock:
20 Tiger Barbs
5 Stebai Cory
1 Bristlenose


Any advice is appreciated as I really want to get into the world of planted tanks!

Thanks Everyone
Check google for Deficiency Finder a website should come up you will find helps.TNC sell the dry salts separately and Nigel if you contact would help
 
Tnc complete analysis

N 1.5%
P 0.2%
K 5%

Just shows how much better value ei is. Admittedly I use Tropica specialised on my tanks, only because i get it at trade price. And also because if I have to leave my girlfriend in charge of the tanks, saying two pumps of this is easier than getting her to measure out amounts.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top