• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

Nigel's Forest scape 128L

It is normal to experience moulding, in such situation. You can try to spray it with a solution of salicylic acid (you can use aspirin).
I remember I saw somewhere a similar isue that has been solved this way. Moulds are senzitive to soft acids, mostly to volatile acids
like acetic, propionic and formic acids. The best would be propionic acid but I cannot say from where you can get it. Anyway, take
care of the plants if you choose to use acids. There are also anti-mould products, that contain such active substances, in buffered form.
Maybe if you give a search, you can find some. I remember I used some time ago a product from Bison. Maybe this can help.

Thanks for your reply. The question now is it worth to risk acid on the plants to solve the mold issue. Do you know if the mold can do any harm as long it doesn't touch plants? Will it dissapear once the tank is flooded?


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
 
I'd try physically removing most of the mold, then wipe the spider wood with a cloth well damped with whatever anti-mold solution you choose to use, you'll likely need to wipe frequently depending on the mold - most can grow quickly

You can try various solutions as mentioned, I'd add peroxide to that list
 
I'd try physically removing most of the mold, then wipe the spider wood with a cloth well damped with whatever anti-mold solution you choose to use, you'll likely need to wipe frequently depending on the mold - most can grow quickly

You can try various solutions as mentioned, I'd add peroxide to that list

What Would happen if I don't touch it? Would it go away by itself or once flooded?


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
 
You don't know what kind of mold you have. Molds, almost all, produce mycotoxins, a metabolit of the mold that can stay on substrate or can be released. Most of mycotoxins are soluble in water so ... don't take any risk!
 
Just wipe it off where you can, ventilate the tank several hours a day. You can spray h2o2 (peroxide) to kill it off.. No idea for how long you are into the drystart and for how long you are planning to go. But this mold thing also is a very common terrarium issue.. Terrarium hobbyist also use peroxide, ventilation and Springtails. :) Springtails are bugs eating mold, getting fat and provide food for the whatever mostly frogs in the terrarium after that. So do you still have weeks to go? Find a local terrarium shop selling Springtails as food, drop a box in the tank and let them feast on it.

Other chemicals than h2o2, can also kill other beneficial organism, so at your own risk, but not advisable to use.

Ventilation is key not to get to much of it in the first place. But still it also depends a lot on the type of wood used.. One is more susceptible to mold than others. So if it is that bad, than leave the tank open for a few days and let the wood dry.. The moss can take that and comes back..

Usualy once the nutrients are used it goes away on its own.. Very well possible that it'll come back once the tank is flooded and than it'lll show as a white slimy substance on the wood. Also this will go away once the nutrients it lives off is used.
 
Just wipe it off where you can, ventilate the tank several hours a day. You can spray h2o2 (peroxide) to kill it off.. No idea for how long you are into the drystart and for how long you are planning to go. But this mold thing also is a very common terrarium issue.. Terrarium hobbyist also use peroxide, ventilation and Springtails. :) Springtails are bugs eating mold, getting fat and provide food for the whatever mostly frogs in the terrarium after that. So do you still have weeks to go? Find a local terrarium shop selling Springtails as food, drop a box in the tank and let them feast on it.

Other chemicals than h2o2, can also kill other beneficial organism, so at your own risk, but not advisable to use.

Ventilation is key not to get to much of it in the first place. But still it also depends a lot on the type of wood used.. One is more susceptible to mold than others. So if it is that bad, than leave the tank open for a few days and let the wood dry.. The moss can take that and comes back..

Usualy once the nutrients are used it goes away on its own.. Very well possible that it'll come back once the tank is flooded and than it'lll show as a white slimy substance on the wood. Also this will go away once the nutrients it lives off is used.

Dry start has been going for 2-3 days now. I can't wait to flood the tank but most of the new mosses won't be attached with the blender yoghurt method. My plan was to dry start for about 4 more weeks. But maybe it's better to take the risk and fill it after two weeks? Idk what's worse mosses floating in the tank or mold all over the place.

The wood that is used is spiderwood. During the waterlogging in a tub it had those slimy coat on it. Isn't this just the emersed version of it?

Those springtails look scary haha :p I don't see myself removing them once the job is done tbh..

Thanks for all help guys. I am a little bit negative on all the solutions you guys give.

I thought the tank has to be really humid to survive the mosses and plants, that's why I went with airing only for 10 mins a day.
 
Last edited:
During the waterlogging in a tub it had those slimy coat on it. Isn't this just the emersed version of it?

No not realy t's a combination of biofiilm (bacteria) and mold.. Submersed it is mainly bacteria, emersed it is both, the bacteria function as a sticky nutricious substrate for the mold. :) Something like that.

I can't wait to flood the tank
I am a little bit negative on all the solutions you guys give.

This goes away with the most difficult part of aquarium keeping, patience and experience.. ;)
 
Finallly it arrived! Trying out the chihiros rgb 60. Unfortunately I had to pay tax and some fees to the post company. With the Aquatlantis easy led the plants in my iwagumi looked yellow and unhealthy. A simple desk lamp showed much better colors. Hard to say how the chihiros is because of no water in the tank. Heard it Can look pretty blue but we will see.

The lamp is pretty high to avoid fire as the chihiros Can heat up a lot and I don't want it to close to the trash bag. I use a trash bag for dsm as wrap foil is impossible to use with all the spiderwood that sticks out of the tank. When flooded the lamp will be as low as possible to get the maximum par out of this lamp. The par in this scape will be still pretty low around 36-50 depending of the location in the scape on substrate.

dbab63df039adc8248b4900f645ba8f9.jpg


a0e5ef1c05ae7c47ded30b13f167f705.jpg


c3d0c258e4e8fee0206e45fefb5b7d62.jpg





Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5440.JPG
    IMG_5440.JPG
    397.8 KB · Views: 103
I'm intrigued to see how this light compares to the flat white in regards to plant growth.
 
Tank is flooded and on vid :). Can you spot the red cherries? Just a few in there got some green thread algae growing on moss already. Probably because my co2 atomizer is doing weird and not functioning good. Some hairy / slimy mold on the spiderwood but that will go away on it's own. In a few days I will be adding more red cherries and clithon sp (snails). Video would be better with some fish in it but will upload more in future.

 
Really nice Nigel, can't wait to watch it grow in. It's got an eery feel to it.
 
I'm no expert but you may lose your forest feel, but you could always remove them if you don't like them.
 
Back
Top