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The Worship of the Stones

Silviu Man

Member
Joined
12 Jun 2017
Messages
345
Location
Barlad, Romania
Hi!

Some time ago I have started a nano, reacting to a chalange of my godson that have an old nano and some Aquael filters. The tank was looking like this :

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Unfortunately, the glass of the nano tank has degraded and become not very nice.
In the mean time, there was a disscusion on a local forum regarding a start-up plan, promoted by Tropica, in a form of optimal route, for a succesfull aquarium, called Tropica 90 Days App. Here is the link :

http://tropica.com/en/guide/get-the-right-start/tropica-90-days-app/

Well, we know that are a few different strategies to start an aquarium. The main one said that we should wait for 3-4 weeks before changing water, introducing fish, shrimps, ... for being sure the cycling process is finished and the water is safe for living beings. Some said is safe to make earlier changes of water, some said we better wait, because the purpose of cycling is to ensure the feed for bacteria from filter by leaving the N-cycle to evolve in a natural way. Anyway, there are many opinions.

But, Tropica suggest an "optimal route" that means to make several changes of water and early introduction of shrimps and fishe in the tank. So, I decided to make an experimental trial, taking the chance with restarting the old nano. I will follow with great accuracy the "route" of Tropica, to see where we will go this way.

So, here it is :

Day 1:
You have followed our instructions on start-up and planting (click on each to see more), and the aquarium is filled with water and the technique is connected.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work?). We recommend that you start with only 6 hours light per day. If your lamp provides a lot of light, you should settle for 0,5 Watt per litre.
We recommend that you add CO2 to the aquarium, as this is the most important nourishment for the plants, and without the supply of CO2, many aquarium plants do not grow sufficiently. Depending on which plants you have chosen, we recommend different solutions (see CO2 solutions here).
Fast-growing plants ensure a good start-up and prevent algae problems (see list of supporting plants here). If you have not already bought some of these plants, we recommend that you do so within the first couple of days.
Postpone the supply of fertilizer, as the plants have brought their own "lunch pack" for the first 2-4 weeks.


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Hi,
For while I had that CO2 kit and I has switching the regulator on/off everyday. The valve did not resist long...
The best is to dial the CO2 to a low injection rate and just let it be.
What is your light BTW?
 
I keep it working all time long, 10 bb/min. I know that is the weak point of the device so, after I fix it at 10, it will stay there.
Anyway, I have 1 year guarantee so I will change it very fast if it works not properly. Light is 20 w led lamp. Program is from 12.00 to 18.00.
 
How long do you get with the gas with these size systems? Was considering getting one for a 300x300 cube I have. Although I have some spare gauges I was intending to put the cube on a kitchen worktop and the hangon bottle keeps things neat and contained but at £15 for a refill it could turn into a costly idea in the long run. Can't really hide a FE or 600gram disposable without leaving a cupboard door open or drilling holes in the worktop for the pipe and cable which won't be happening. Have we sourced cheaper re-fills of the same size that will fit in the holder?
 
If we consider the table from Tropica, at 5 bb/min. should go over 4 months. I put it at 10 bb/min. and will keep it there for two weeks then get down to 5 bb/min. as it is recommended for the kind of plants I have there. So it cost between 6 and 3 euro/month. But the table indications are related with a 30 litters tank so, in 45 litters need a recalculation, in 100 litters too. This because why I will go with 5 bb/min. The cost of the system is around 75 euro. A complete system with 2 litters cylinder is 225 euro. So, on long term, second solution is better from the cost point of view. I choose Tropica system for the good of the trial. After I will get the return of investment, I will change it for sure. The main problem here in Romania is that is difficult to refil small cylinders, otherwise there is a system with 0,5 litters cylinder at 165 euro. Tropica cylinder cannot be refiled! So you pay for 50.000 ml and this is it.
 
Day 3:
Change up to 50 % of the water (see guidance in water change).
Put shrimps and snails into the aquarium to prevent algae problems. We recommend 1 Amano shrimp per 5 litres of water in the start-up period. You might also add e.g. posthorn snails and other shrimps that also eat algae (see list of algae eaters here). Be aware that the legislation in your country perhaps prescribes that you cannot put animals in the aquarium until later after the start-up.


I've changed 50% of the water (using a graduated can of 2 litters) and only with RO water. Shrimps : 8 Amano, 10 Red Sakura and a small group of Black Cristal,Red Cristal and Rilli plus 4 Spiral Horn. Checking the local legislation looks like there is nothing mentioned as Tropica advise. CO2 is set at 8 bb/min. I guess is more than enough for the plants I have there.

Shrimps have spread quite well in the water and are active already. I see their colour start to recover. Having not so much algae I give them a little food (from now on I have to check NO2 closely, an important sign as long as I have an input of organic matter and all in short time ... so another details Tropica is not mentioning in their text but they make later a remark about "overfeeding"). The water is a little cloudy but this is because of waterchange, I guess. I will check it again in a few hours. As a few coleagues suggest that the rock from the left side is ... from another moovie, after grass will be stable I will relocate the plant from the back of the root and use that rock for supporting Anubias, planted on top of it.

Next 2-3 days are crucial so need to check the water quality daily; if any problems will occur, I will take a decision.

Here are the pics :

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Hi,
For while I had that CO2 kit and I has switching the regulator on/off everyday. The valve did not resist long...
The best is to dial the CO2 to a low injection rate and just let it be.
What is your light BTW?

You will not believe how right you were!

I try to fix it back to to 8-10 bb/min because, over the night, decreased to 4-5. The regulator has become very, acting like a spring pushed it out and the gas exploded in the diffuser! I manage to push it back but now it stays at 6-7 bb/min. Looks like it will be replaced by supplier but ...
 
in my experience, these diffusers need sometime to work properly. At the begining you need a high pressure (or strong rate) to make them produce little bubles. Otherwise they will bigger ones at time on the sides of the ceramic dish. With time it gets better.
I had one from TMC, and I scrubbed the dish several times until it started working.
Anyway, it really never worked well with very small bubble rates...
 
OK Bolota, I understood your point. But my problem is just the oposit : when I try to increase the no. of bb. the regulator jump out from the place and, of course, gas is released with high presure in the diffuser. Up to 4-5 bb/min is OK. Then after the adjusment become very difficult without having this problem with the regulator. On other hand, the diffuser works very well from the very begining (after I kept it in water for more than 24 h) it generate nice small bb. Anyway, this is first and last time using such kind of devices. Next will be a integrated ones with 2 kg cylinder. Thaks for reply.
 
I also have that diffuser and never had any issues with it, made my mind up though on the reg set, looks like I need to find some way of hiding the gas bottle.
 
Day 7:
Change up to 50 % of the water.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
Remove any old or damaged leaves. Dead plant material may increase algae growth.


Done! I am preparing 2 SAE that will be next change, in day 10.
A few pics :

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NO2 before waterchange : between 0,025 si 0,01.
NO2 after waterchange : normaly, <0,01.
NO3 before waterchange : between 1 and 5

So, cycling process on the way ...but slowed by the water changes, I guess!
 
Day 10:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
It is now time to put algae-eating fish into the aquarium. The fish will eat other algae than the shrimps and snails, and in this way you will ensure an efficient prevention of algae problems (see list of algae-eaters here).
If the water is green and cloudy (see example of green water here), check that the filter is running and perhaps rinse the filter sponge (see more about filters here). You also ought to change up to 75 % of the water every second day until you have clear water again. If you still have green water, an efficient solution is to turn off the light for 2 days and change 75% of the water before and after. Reoccurring problems with floating algae are usually due to overfeeding.


Done!
I've changed exactly 30% of the water, using again a graduated can.
Two SAE are in and looks like need to receive some food because there is not much to eat! Water is clear. The pipes of the filter are clean as new so I didn't check the filter. Last piece of BioDigest was added. Light is on for 6 hours, it will be changed next step. I will add this evening two more Spira and 6 RCS (last ones from my own "production").

Please find bellow a few pics.

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Day 17:
Change up to 30 % of the water.
If you are able to see thread algae (long, thin threads), this is best removed with a rough woodstick (flowerstick), which is lead through the thread algae while rotating the stick (see examples of filamentous algae here). Add e.g. more algae eaters; Amano shrimps, the siamese algae eater (Crossocheilus siamensis) and odessabarber (Puntius padamya) are particularly good at removing thread algae (see list of algae eaters here). More supporting plants will prevent the thread algae from appearing again.


Done.
Because there is no algae threat, I stay like it is. After an increase in NO2 (that should be normal at this time) looks like it is stable. Here are some pics.

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Hope you like it!
Have a nice evening!
 
Yes, looks like the method is OK. Anyway, I am thinking for next one to apply a early separate cycling of the filter together with a dry start
and then after Tropica method.
 
Day 21:
Change up to 30 % of the water. After 3 weeks, it is enough to change the water once per week, provided you see no signs of algae problems.
Check the technique (is the pump running, does the switch on/off clock work, is the CO2 running).
It is now time to increase the light period to 8 hours per day.
It is also time for fertilization. We recommend that you start with a fertilizer that does not contain nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P), e.g. Plant Growth Premium Fertiliser (read more about the Plant Care series here). Start with only ½ a dose, which means 5 mL per 100 L water per week. It is best to spread the fertilizer over the entire week instead of dosing all of it at once.


I have changed the water with 1 day before timing because last evening, checking NO2, I've got 0.1 ?! Looks like this method is focused first of all on avoiding algae development, due to frequent waterchanges. Anyway, no problems with animals. Plant are growing (slow, but growing). I started to add Plant Growth Premium Fertiliser 1/2 of the weekly dossage and I increased light time to 8 continuously hours per day. Here are the pics :

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