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what DSLR in 2017 for aquarium photography and filming

Edvet said:
No moving fish and shallow depth of field;)
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It will be a while before I get any fish in this to take any example shots with a dslr unfortunately but I will as soon as I do

Flash would only create harsh shadows in such a small area, if the lighting being used on the tank isn't bright enough then adding another couple of constant light sources from different angles to avoid shadows would be the way to do it
 
Nigel95 said:
In that case do I need a more expensive body? Something like canon eos 80d? Or is the canon eos 70d still fine?
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From my experience of them I would go for a used 7d body, anything under 25k shutter count is basically new anyway and for the price you can get one a real bargain for the quality of camera plus it does film in 1080p HD.

Any body with 12mp+ and HD video will produce basically the same results image wise with the same settings, the lens makes all the difference and is where the true cost and quality of a dslr comes into play.
 
Nigel95 said:
I was thinking about this lens. It seems affordable second hand
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/tokina-12-24-4-n15

What is a reasonable price for a canon 7d second hand btw?
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I have no experience with the Tokina lenses so can't say anything on it to be fair, in terms of budget lenses I have used the cheaper Sigma which are pretty good but with Canon the best quality glass are the L range.

Also at 12mm you will get quite a bit of distortion, 35mm is more than wide enough for the average home tank, the Canon 17-55mm 2.8 EFS IS is an amazing wide angle zoom and non L series lens but even second hand about £350/£400 which is the same as the full frame 24-105mm f/4L lens which they have now updated to include IS ( image stabilisation).

If shooting on a tripod IS is not hugely important but handheld can make a big difference.

An average for used 7d is probably about £350 ish.
 
Depends on distance and tank size. I have a large tank (200cm). I can use my 12-24 from say 3-4 meters distance, or my 24-85 from 6-7 meters or more (that is to get a full tankshot in one go). With smaller tanks the distance will be shorter.
Alternative could be take multiple shots from a shorter distance and "stitch"them in a software program,
 
Edvet said:
I can use my 12-24 from say 3-4 meters distance
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Ok so I definitely need a 12-24 mm as I don't have much space on my room.

What do you think about this one Ed?
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/tokina-12-24-4-n15

I am currently trying to make a list so I can hunt second hand for good deals. If anyone knows a good body camera for a nice price post it below: It is important that it can also makes videos.
- Canon 7d
- Canon EOS 70d
- Canon eos 800d
- Canon 700/ 750/ 760D
 
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Nigel95 said:
One thing is very confusing for me. I have read full tank shots need about: DX use 18-20mm. and FX use 28-30mm. But if you have a 24-105mm you can't shoot macro photos (but macro lenses usually go like 70 - 105mm?) . For what purpose is the 30 + mm needed?
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A FTS could be taken with anything from 8mm to 600mm depending on tank size and distance available from it, anything below 35mm will distort the verticle lines but it isn't really easily noticeable until you get down to about 12mm.

Personally I would go with a 35 or 50mm focal length to keep as true to eye as possible, you may do well to rent a zoom lens to play with the different focal lengths and see what suits your space best.
 
Giving advice on an actual lens is always very personal, i might not be bothered by some softness, while you might hate the chromatical abbberation.
Indeed renting a lens is a good step if it's your first camera. It's also worth your while to go visit Cameranu or Kamera express and spend some hours there.
 
I use a mk1 7d (can be purchased very cheap second had as they are old now) and 24mm canon pancake lens (again very cheap lens), this makes for a pretty compact cheap DSLR that is good for most situations, tank shots, close shots, portraits, landscape etc. Also recommend the 100mm Canon macro lens.

I am far from a professional, not even a really active hobbiest when it comes to photography, my advice is go second hand and dont over spend, photography gear is expensive!

Here is my flickr, https://www.flickr.com/photos/colmdoyle/ macro shots are taken with a 100mm canon macro, full tank shots the 24mm pancake. Prime lenses are my favourite! Also have a 10 - 20mm wide angle lens that I use for landscape / holiday snaps
 
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doylecolmdoyle said:
I use a mk1 7d (can be purchased very cheap second had as they are old now) and 24mm canon pancake lens (again very cheap lens), this makes for a pretty compact cheap DSLR that is good for most situations, tank shots, close shots, portraits, landscape etc. Also recommend the 100mm Canon macro lens.

I am far from a professional, not even a really active hobbiest when it comes to photography, my advice is go second hand and dont over spend, photography gear is expensive!

Here is my flickr, https://www.flickr.com/photos/colmdoyle/ macro shots are taken with a 100mm canon macro, full tank shots the 24mm pancake. Prime lenses are my favourite! Also have a 10 - 20mm wide angle lens that I use for landscape / holiday snaps
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what a coincidence I was just on your flickr and sent a pm!

So you still recommend the 7d? If you would sell yours what price what you ask for it?
 
Nigel95 said:
what a coincidence I was just on your flickr and sent a pm!

So you still recommend the 7d? If you would sell yours what price what you ask for it?
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I do like the 7d, the mk1 is old, must have came out over 10 - 15 years ago? Still a great camera and perfect for someone wanting to really learn the in's and out of SLR photography, only think it lacks for me is wifi connectivity.

I am actually looking at selling the body, I dont use my camera enough and its a bit big to lug around, I would probably want about $500 AUD for it. Tho have not looked into what the going rate is.

My next camera would be something from the canon eos m series, can still use the lenses I have collected (via an adaptor) and its tiny and has all the modern connectivity features etc
 
Seeing as people with some photographic knowledge this might be a good place to ask a question......... How do I stop reflections of myself or other objects from the glass? I do have windows in my room with blinds which even if they're closed sunlight still gets through the sides so I'm guessing this is probably part of the problem - any suggestions aside from getting blackout curtains?
 
Andrew Butler said:
Seeing as people with some photographic knowledge this might be a good place to ask a question......... How do I stop reflections of myself or other objects from the glass? I do have windows in my room with blinds which even if they're closed sunlight still gets through the sides so I'm guessing this is probably part of the problem - any suggestions aside from getting blackout curtains?
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Take photos at night with all other ambient lights off, tv/room light etc etc.
 
Andrew Butler said:
Seeing as people with some photographic knowledge this might be a good place to ask a question......... How do I stop reflections of myself or other objects from the glass? I do have windows in my room with blinds which even if they're closed sunlight still gets through the sides so I'm guessing this is probably part of the problem - any suggestions aside from getting blackout curtains?
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Use a polarizing filter. Also don't get too caught up on which camera to buy for aquarium photography. The lens is going to be far more important. If you're using an APS-C size senor (you probably will be) i'd look for something with a focal length of around 35mm (50 if you get up getting a full frame camera). New Nikon and Olympus cameras have superb 18-55 kit lenses, not sure about Canon however. Also this all depends on your budget, I use a lot of vintage glass adapted to my Sony A7 to save money, means no autofocus but the images are stellar if you're willing to put in a little more time.
 
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Just a real quick and dirty example (btw these all are with a Nikon D300, a Dx camera with a 1.4 enlargement factor ( small CCD makes images look larger, but have less pixels)
1) 50 mm (cheap lens) with a real large diafragma, fast shutterspeed, handheld: because it's fast it's easy to shoot handheld and be sharp ( no moving unsharpness), just a small depth of field ( due to large diafragma) but takes good tankshots from some distance
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2) 50mm at diafragma 1.4 ( short depth of fiield) and at diafragma 22 (large depth of field)
DSC_7171_copy.jpg
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