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Critique my hardscape Critique my hardscape

Is it normal for my drop checker to read green constantly for the first few days of setup? I'm running CO2 for 2 hours before lights on and off an hour before lights off. Lighting is set really low and only running for 6 hours at present.
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That picture is from now. 30 mins before CO2 on

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I will be updating this project and moving it to Journals soon for the rest of the journey.

Need a name for the setup, maybe something like Dragons Deep or something mystical like that. Any ideas?

Thanks

Matt
 
I have the 8 in 1 set which by the quality I highly recommend.Signstek 8 in 1 Stainless Steel Aquarium Tank Tweezers Scissors Spatula Tool Set https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MYTGLI3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r0zfAbQ76KB6W

It took long enough haha
Maybe on my next setup I will be better prepared and give myself enough time to do just that.
I think I will invest in a better pair of planting tweezers that are straight and do not have a bend in them like my current set.

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Any suggestions as to why my buces are like this? Light is not too high. CO2 may be lacking a little flow to help it along, have ordered a Hydor powerhead to help with that. We are on about day 10 to 12 after flooding. No ferts yet, will be dosing dry salts EI . Lights on 6 1/2 hrs @ half to 3/4 power, Co2 on an hour and a half before lights on. PH around 6.9. KH at 4 3 days ago. Will check again later.

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Matt

Let the tank develop slowly the plants will establish them selves. After a few months you can easily tweak a bit here and there and they will be off again very quickly.

You have a beautiful tank that you should be very proud of.

Keith:wave::wave:
 
Thanks for the kind words Keith!

I am having a lot of melt and losing plenty of plants. Parameters show-

PH- 6
(2 hours after lights on CO2 on 2 hrs before)

Ammonia 0.25ppm

NO2 0.25

NO3 20ppm

KH well JBL test not even going blue which suggests to me super low like 1 KH.

Maintenance day.. 50% water cha he and a rub down of algae, remove dead leaves.

No ferts yet.

No fauna yet

Also adding a Hydor powerhead to help the melt as I'm sure it's lack of flow. Some pics.

Fts
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Melting in one corner
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Melting Staurogyne Porto Velho
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Buces melting
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Any help or suggestions welcome.

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Hi Matt
You have a pretty much new setup.Its yet to finish its cycling .I had experienced plant melt like that(i assume they melt from roots upwards first) in past with high tech tank dosed on regular basis. Improving flow will help but I will suggest to increase your oxygen levels when your lights are not on.Adding an airstone or increased surface agitation stopped the melt in mine for few days.I will also second the addition of some fertiliser even if is in low dose till U see new growth and then full as your plan is.Buces are not rooted in substrate to feed of it.
Regards Konsa
 
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Matt

You should not have any Ammonia at all. Your first task is do your research and, find out what is causing it.
You will fix it until you find the cause.

Keith:wave::wave:
That's what this setup was for. To learn from.
I would say the only possible thing creating the ammonia would be the melted plants. I will remove any melted or rotting plants tonight and do a small water change maybe 30%. Did a 50% last night. But before I will test again.

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I don't want to change too much at once. I will add the powerhead and start with ferts on a low level maybe 1/2 dose to start

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Probably worth noting that my Rotala Vietnam is bright pink at the tips already, separate part of the tank to the melting stems.
Would this suggest that they are getting enough nutrients? and therefore confirm that flow would be an underlying factor?

Thank you all for your replies!
 
Matt

Looks like its going to be an expensive learning curve. For rooted plants I always used Seachem Fert tabs as recommended.

Water changes I would be doing at least 2 preferably 3 X 45% a week, when every thing is running perfectly do 2 x 45% twice weekly.

Just checking do you have any carbon in your filter if so please remove it as it's not required at the moment? Have you done a full water parameters test on your water supply?
Finally are you using a quality testing equipment not paper strips?

Keith:wave::wave:
 
Hi, Mat!
If I count well, there are two weeks from when you filled the tank with water. This means level of NO2 is normal and might even rise more due to much dead leaves and more organic waste. Nevertheless, plants have enough nutrients storage to stay without ferts up to 3-4 weeks if CO2 and light are optimal. So there might be a problem with plants from the very begining. It is unusual for Bucephalandra to melt such way after two weeks, is a quite resistant plant. Check the rhisom and if there is enough flow of the water. Regarding grass and plants with roots, again you may see some melting plants because when you portion it for planting, roots may be dameged but not so much and not so many. So my advice is to use ferts at 1/2 from dossage, preferable on daily basis (because you change water frequently that is not very necesary if you don't have animals there) and to check the flow of the water in those areas where plants are metling down.
Cheers,
Silviu
 
Matt

Looks like its going to be an expensive learning curve. For rooted plants I always used Seachem Fert tabs as recommended.

Water changes I would be doing at least 2 preferably 3 X 45% a week, when every thing is running perfectly do 2 x 45% twice weekly.

Just checking do you have any carbon in your filter if so please remove it as it's not required at the moment? Have you done a full water parameters test on your water supply?
Finally are you using a quality testing equipment not paper strips?

Keith:wave::wave:
I have the API Master test kit with test tubes. Tests PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate separately.


I will remove the carbon cartridge from the filter chamber

Will test again shortly and post results.

Thanks again Keith!

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Hi Matt
Your ammonia test will be influenced by the declorinator U use.Make sure U test before wc or after 24 hours to give it time to wear off first.
Regards Konsa
 
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