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Critique my hardscape Critique my hardscape

Hi Matt
Your ammonia test will be influenced by the declorinator U use.Make sure U test before wc or after 24 hours to give it time to wear off first.
Regards Konsa
Think you are spot on mate , thanks Konsa! Just tested again. I read it as.
pH- 6.5
Ammonia- 0.2ppm
Nitrite- 0ppm
Nitrate- 20ppm looks darker on photo but is orange.

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Matt

I have the API Master test kit with test tubes. Tests PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate separately.
Excellent a good test is a must
I will remove the carbon cartridge from the filter chamber
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That will help a lot.

Your ammonia test will be influenced by the declorinator U use.

Dechlorinator, why are you using it at all. I always had a very high reading at my water supply. I stored my water for 3-4 days and the Chlorine evaporated. If you have to use it mix it with your new water first.

Keith:wave::wave:
 
Would I be better to wait further still before adding shrimp and algae eaters?

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I have not read every post in detail but ... what is the PH before the Co2 is switched on & then what is the PH when the lights go on?
This is important to know & will help you a lot.
I would not add any fish until you have the plants growing well.
 
Amano are very strong and rezistent. Same CAE and SAE. These may be added before RCS or others.
Still, if there are not frequent changes of water, it is not recommended before 3 weeks.
 
I have not read every post in detail but ... what is the PH before the Co2 is switched on & then what is the PH when the lights go on?
This is important to know & will help you a lot.
I would not add any fish until you have the plants growing well.
Good timing as I'm home for lunch. Co2 came on 3 mins ago. Just tested pH at 6.4. Lights on in 2 hours will test again then.

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Measured pH 10 mins after lights on. Still showing 6.4. Maybe 6.2 at a push

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Started dosing ferts as well today. EI at about half dose. Macro Monday micro Tuesday etc... rest day Sunday but going to do 2-3 weekly water changes of about 40% volume 1 or 2 midweek and 1 on Sundays to start off.

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OK well in that case you have a problem...
I think we need to look at your equipment.
Cam you explain your C02 system?
Sure, it's at least a 6kg canister with JBL dual gauge regulator and solenoid pictured below. From the solenoid valve into the drop checker then a stop or check valve so the water does not siphon back (all correctly fitted), from there into the glass diffuser which I'll admit needs cleaning. See below, warts and all.

Co2 timer comes on at 15:15 and off at 23:00.
Lights on at 17:20 and off at 00:00.
I have checked all timers and equipment and all working fine, I will check for leaks in the Co2 tubing but I don't think I will find any, seems to be coming through the diffuser well.

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I will try and attach a video shortly if I can pick up the distribution. It seems to be a lot better now that I have installed a powerhead to aid flow.
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Hi Matt
Looks like the sump pump is hitting straight in the powerhead.Is it not blocking that flow pattern?
Regards Konsa
No the sump pump is directed in front of the powerhead. The placement of the powerhead is temporary as it is rather unsightly at the front of the glass. Flow goes in almost a figure of 8 round the back left and back through the middle to the front.

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How many bps can you count? We are normally looking at a one point drop in PH by lights on, a cheap PH pen is very helpful
I have around 3 bps running. I have a JBL co2 and pH reader which is matching the API pH test figure.

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Well it is very difficult to see from your vid what is going on but I do see a lot of surface movement?
Anyway you are not getting anywhere near to a one point drop in PH so if you are confident you don't have any leaks, you need to turn up the gas!
It does look like you are blasting and losing lot of gas on the surface though.
It would seem the best flow formats work by causing a circular movement within the tank rather than a confused pattern.
 
This setup has racked my brain over and over again.

I seem to be getting next to no growth after 3-4 weeks and am considering starting over, I can't even understand why my buces all melted away.

If there is anyone in the Leicester area up for a visit then please do let me know. All the forums in the world can't beat a face to face discussion in front of the tank in question. My limited planted tank experience is starting to show now.
 
Matt, you need to aim for a one point drop in PH to obtain around 30ppm of dissolved Co2 in the water.
So just say if you have a PH of 7 two hours after the lights go out, you want to aim at dropping the PH to 6 at the same time as the lights come back on.
Once you have established a one point drop by light on, you need to check that the PH does not vary to much during the lighting period.
The best way to achieve this is by testing the PH ever hour or even better every half hour, starting from two hours before the lights come on right up to when the lights go out.
We would normally stop the C02 two hours before lights out.
That is why a PH pen is so useful.
What you don't want to do is take the PH any lower as that will effect your fish.
 
Hi foxfish
2 hours after light out is not enough to degas the CO2 build up and get a baseline PH.
I know what U are trying to explain but he may get your example literally and get confused or overdose the tank.Better to take PH before the start of CO2 injection in morning or take some water out and rest it for a period of time (24 h as example ) to get base line PH and get 1 point drop from that reading.
Regards Konsa
 
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