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PBM's Dennerle Scapers 55

Thanks! :)

"Take up aquascaping they said... it'll be easy they said!"

Gawd I detest tying/gluing moss but... progress so far...

I'm using a Chihiros 45cm - anyone know what intensity setting I should use? I'm going for 10hrs a day.

Also, I take it a glass cover is okay to bring about humidity - most tuts say use cling film but that's a pain in the ass, right? Gap is about 5mm all round.

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Looks good so far. If going for the dry start i would just spread the moss thinly where you want it to grow and let it take hold before you flood.
 
You want to trim the moss right back

Then you can take that trimmed moss, chop finely, add a bit of water, tiny amount of plain (no sugar) yoghurt & paint moss wherever you'd like it - this is the most effective method for moss attachment (assuming surface has come roughness - spider wood, mopani wood can be challenging as the surface can be very smooth - sand paper or wire bristle brush solution :D)

Dry Start - general, 12h light, as much light as possible, sometimes added CO2, sometimes (occasional) light fertilizer mist (well diluted aquatic fertilizer to avoid leaf burn)

You might scroll through Jurijs mit JS FB page as he recently did a DS on his 60P (some videos & tips)
 
I'm going to try the blended approach on the Flame Moss. Probably too thick as-is and I could do with some more here and there.

To recap some questions I posed earlier - can anyone help?:

• Is a glass cover is okay to bring about humidity - Gap is about 5mm all round (and it doesn't seem to be 'steaming up').

• I also have some small moss (Marimo) balls. Could I split them and glue to some of the wood or will that end in tears?
 
• I also have some small moss (Marimo) balls. Could I split them and glue to some of the wood or will that end in tears?
:lol:
Jurijs has a video on that too
Check George Farmer youtube channel - this I think

As for the glass top, you'll just need to monitor - you can always just cling film the gap (somewhat)
 
Cheers. Watching now. I'd always read that it just died when flattened out. But if Jurijs is doing it, well... :cool:

For the cover, I'm now using a clear, walled polycarbonate sheet which extends right over the rim. I'll open once or twice a day to change the air.

I've also finely chopped-up most of that Flame Moss pictured earlier. I have little hope that this is all going to work as the mosses are drying up already... :(
 
H. Tripartita and buce can easily be added later.

About mini pellia, my advice is too glue it before flooding.
 
Btw why dry start?

Slowest growth, great chance of mould, plants needs to readapt when flooding...ammonia cycle not done before flooding...

My advice? Flood it now.
 
Thanks.

I understood growth is faster with a dry start and at least the Monte will readapt quicker with better roots. All plants were purchased emersed so they'll have to readapt at some point anyway. Might as well give them a fighting chance. No ammonia issues to consider in this tank.

I'll be realistic with my patience levels though - I'll likely flood this within a month.
 
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I'll be realistic with my patience levels though - I'll likely flood this within a month.
If done right, DS needn't take more than 2-4 weeks (some people limit light) - often it's just a case of flooding when convenient, even after a DS you should be prepared for frequent water change, attention to tank etc

There's a journal here (somewhere) with a stunning DS that ran for months - not sure I could've ever flooded that tank :D
 
Well, that didn't take long... here comes the mold. :mad:

Given that I won't be stocking it with critters in the short term, should I just flood now? Monte Carlo seems to be doing well and probably beginning to root. I've ordered more Flame moss which I'll just tie on. The chopped moss can float off now for all I care...
 
Best way to combat mould in a DSM is to air the tank regularly, or alternatively if you are around the tank a lot then leave the cover off and spray regularly, you could just cover it the times when you won't be there like work etc, i would hold off flooding as it defeats the object of doing a DSM.
 
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