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PBM's Dennerle Scapers 55

Thanks for your kind words. It's encouraging. :)

I think I'll grab some H pinnatifida.

Still a bit slimy here and there but the fog is lifting, Nitrites are dropping and things are growing in.

I sense victory.

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If I were to do water changes with (pure) RO from now on, will I minimise the chance of diatoms?
Don't do it... slow and steady is the way. You can use pure RO to top up evaporated water, for everything else, it needs to be remineralized (I believe that's the term used) in some way. You can mix RO and tap water when doing water changes, but I wouldn't bother just for the sake of keeping a lower TDS for the shrimp. I've had fish and shrimp with TDS above 400 and they didn't really bother with it.
 
I’m effectively cutting the RO with the existing tap water, right?
Sorry, I don't know if I'm understanding what you mean correctly... but if you're doing water changes with RO only, you are diluting whatever there is in the tank already, but you'll be changing the water chemistry in tank a bit too quickly for my liking. Almost nothing in this hobby comes the "quick and easy" way.

Re:TDS is it not good practice to match it to what they’re already used to?
I've been in your place before mixing RO with tap water to have lower TDS (my tap water has around 300)... then someone here told me there was no point, I gave up and it made absolutely no difference. I had a tank with shrimp running with TDS over 400 not that long ago and they still bred like crazy.

Unless we're talking about some very specific and hard to keep fish/shrimp species, more important than following numbers is to keep the numbers stable. If you get fish/shrimp from a store, chances are they're being kept in tap water anyway. Fish/shrimp bred locally will also most likely be in tap water and have adapted to it in the meantime. In my experience, if you do the acclimatisation properly you rarely have any issues.
 
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Understood but surely my shrimp will better withstand the acclimatisation if the TDS is similar in each tank? I wouldn't like to put them from 200 into 350+. Isn't it just something else that can go wrong?

I suppose I could just start water changes in the existing shrimp tank with tap...
 
Understood but surely my shrimp will better withstand the acclimatisation if the TDS is similar in each tank? I wouldn't like to put them from 200 into 350+. Isn't it just something else that can go wrong?

I suppose I could just start water changes in the existing shrimp tank with tap...
True. If the water is similar in both tanks (TDS, other params, temperature, etc) you wouldn't even need to acclimate. Once in a while I move shrimp between tanks, and since I keep all my tanks the same way I don't even to acclimate them.

With all this said, we are here just to discuss and give advice, if you're doing something that you believe works well for you, you shouldn't change it just because someone says so.

If your shrimp are breeding and you want to play it safe, do it your way, and then try to slowly stop using RO for water changes in one of the tanks to see how it goes (slowly reducing the amount of RO over a couple of months). If something bad happens, you'll still have one tank with suitable conditions to move the shrimp into, or (worst case scenario) at least some shrimp in one tank to repopulate.
 
Update:

• Ordered an Eheim Experience 150 (500lph). Turnover from the AquaCompact (350lph) good - flow not so good.

• Transferred some Amano shrimp from the main tank. Doing sterling work on that white slime! :thumbup:

• Debating on whether to use spray bar, duckbill or lily pipe outlet?...


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Looking really nice! Is that some kind of Blyxa at the back right?

I’m toying with the idea of DS a tank but am worried about the wood drying out and going for a float when flooded? Any issues with this? T


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Cheers. I'll defo try that first.

Just a thought. I've LOVE to get that heater out of the tank. Has anyone ever sat a canister filter in a sump (obviously below the line of the motor housing) and heated the water that way? I'm no engineer but I'm thinking that there would be too much of a loss of energy. Or maybe not?... any thoughts?
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Trouble with the 200w hydor on a small tank is what happens if the heater gets suck on:eek:

So it's either a DIY inline heater easy to make plenty of vids on YouTube making it so an appropiate size wattage heater is used, or get a thermal probe which measures the temp turning the heater on/off as a failsafe which powers the hydor heater.
 
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