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60-P amazon scape

Just make sure you have plenty of hiding places and not to bright light.
My black cube was full of fry moving around:

I cleaned it up and ony left some swordplants. I couldn't find any apisto's anymore. Turned out they are all hiding in the growth on the walls. They are sll still there just hidden.
 
Hi all,
I think Apistogramma Trifasciata could be an option.. any thoughts?
I kept them for a while.

The males are <"relatively aggressive"> from a young age, to both other males and un-receptive females. You really need to keep them as a harem, one male and two or three females. Each female needs about 30 x 30 cm of floor space (with cover and a cave), and you nee some space which isn't in a territory for the male.

Apistogramma cacatuoides or A. borellii are a lot calmer, A. "Steel-Blue" is also pretty aggressive, A. agassizii is somewhere in the middle.

cheers Darrel
 
I couldn't find any apisto's anymore. Turned out they are all hiding in the growth on the walls. They are sll still there just hidden.
Your tank is looking very healthy. Nice! Curious to know what species apisto your keeping..

The males are <"relatively aggressive"> from a young age, to both other males and un-receptive females. You really need to keep them as a harem, one male and two or three females. Each female needs about 30 x 30 cm of floor space (with cover and a cave), and you nee some space which isn't in a territory for the male.

Apistogramma cacatuoides or A. borellii are a lot calmer, A. "Steel-Blue" is also pretty aggressive, A. agassizii is somewhere in the middle.

cheers Darrel

That's some very usefull information. I won't be adding fish before the end of august so that will give me plenty of time to do some research. I'm sure the cichlid association I mentioned before can help me out finding the right species. Thanks!
 
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Overall the plants are doing good. Unfortunately the saggitaria subulata is melting? Hydrocleys Nymphoides has already reached the surface! (picture is from this morning..)

Some of the driftwood still needs to sink so the overall composition is a bit out of balance now.
The dropchecker was blue/green this morning (see picture) after 2hours of co2 running and 1hour of light. So I added some more co2 today. Dropchecker is now light green so I will keep it like this and see what tomorrow brings..

How often do I have to refresh the solution in the dropchecker to get an accurate reading?

I'm now dosing half the recommanded amount of ADA Green Brighty Neutral K and Green Brighty Mineral after doing a 50% waterchange. Upcoming week I will dose the recommanded amount to see how plants will respond. New leaves on my floaters (Limnobium Laevigatum) are a bit yellow so I think I will need to add more ferts.

Untill now I see no signs of algae, only some light mold on the dritfwood.

My pH is 6.1 in the evening, after doing the waterchange (at night because of work) it's 6.6. When co2 is running in the morning for two hours it drops to 5.9.
Should I consider using ADA Brighty instead of ADA Brighty Neutral K so my pH doesn't drop this much?

NO2 is 0.2 mg/L so I will keep doing the nightly 50% waterchanges..
 
AFAIK unless you have spilled etc the dropchecker solution doesn't need refreshing.
 
Aren’t they just melting ? I planted a bunch of them in my last tank , they all melted like that for no reason while everything else was healthy and then grew back new leaves and we’re very healthy too. I didnt understand why.​
 
Curious if your tap water is fairly "soft"?

It's not unusual for S repens to melt (though there are also plenty of instances of it not melting) - just trim the damaged leafs & wait for new growth, it usually forms strong roots then more leaf growth

Tropica article

What are the very pale long, narrow leafs in the photo?
I'm now dosing half the recommanded amount of ADA Green Brighty Neutral K and Green Brighty Mineral after doing a 50% waterchange
ADA is already a lean dosing system, not sure I'd do reduced dosing (but I have very soft tap water)
Are you doing daily water change & dosing?
 
Curious if your tap water is fairly "soft"?

It's not unusual for S repens to melt (though there are also plenty of instances of it not melting) - just trim the damaged leafs & wait for new growth, it usually forms strong roots then more leaf growth

Tropica article

What are the very pale long, narrow leafs in the photo?

ADA is already a lean dosing system, not sure I'd do reduced dosing (but I have very soft tap water)
Are you doing daily water change & dosing?

Thanks for your reply. My tap water is 8,9 ºdH and 7,8pH.
This week I started with 50% waterchanges every other day. I now dose the recommended amount of ADA fertilizers after the water change (every other day).
There is plenty CO2 in my tank with good flow. Twinstar light is now running at 70% for 5 hours a day.
IMG_0293.JPG
The long pale leaves are Helanthium Bolivianum 'Angustifolius' in this new photo on the left side behind the spiderwood. In front is Heteranthera Zosterifolia. It's growing very tall. Going to trim it tomorrow. I would say it's not getting enough light? Should I also dose more fertilizer?

Overall I have the feeling my plants are not looking very green..

Ph log yesterday (was not at home between 11:30 and 17:14..)
09:00 - 6.9 before co2
09:30 - 6.6 co2 on
10:00 - 6.4 co2 on +lights on
10:30 - 6.3 co2 on +lights on
11:00 - 6.2 co2 on +lights on
11:30 - 6.1 co2 on +lights on

14:00 - ?? co2 off
15:00 - ?? lights off

17:14 - 6.1 co2 off
23:22 - 6.5 co2 off
 
Curious if your tap water is fairly "soft"?

It's not unusual for S repens to melt (though there are also plenty of instances of it not melting) - just trim the damaged leafs & wait for new growth, it usually forms strong roots then more leaf growth
S. Repens could be emersed?
 
Hi all,
ADA is already a lean dosing system, not sure I'd do reduced dosing
I now dose the recommended amount of ADA fertilizers after the water change (every other day).
of ADA Green Brighty Neutral K and Green Brighty Mineral
Looking at the colour of the plant leaves it looks like you are having some nutrient deficiency issues.

I'm not a CO2 user, but the plants can only make use of the additional CO2 <"if the other nutrients aren't limiting growth">.

From the earlier posts in the thread I don't think you are dosing any nitrogen (N) or phosphorus (P)? These are two of the nutrients that plants need most of (together with potassium (K) they are the macro-nutrients N: P: K).

I'm not a user of any <"specific brand of fertilizer">, the issue for me is that plants can only take up nutrients as ions, and every K+ ion etc is indistinguishable from every other K+ ion.

cheers Darrel
 
From the earlier posts in the thread I don't think you are dosing any nitrogen (N) or phosphorus (P)? These are two of the nutrients that plants need most of (together with potassium (K) they are the macro-nutrients N: P: K).

Thanks for your input. Interesting to read about N: P: K. I think it's indeed a nutrients issue. The past week I started with daily dosing ADA fertilizers.
The Green Brighty K Neutral contains potassium. Together with green Brighty Mineral, this supplies iron, magnesium and other trace elements. (?what other trace elements I can't find on the ADA website?)

Quote from ADA website:
"nitrogen and phosphorus are seldom in short supply in Nature Aquarium as they are supplied from the substrate made of Power Sand and Aqua Soil and also from fish droppings and unconsumed fish food. Rather, these nutrients are often in excess and lead to algae in the tank."

I'm using Power Sand and Aqua Soil so phosphorus should be enough..

The only thing I'm not adding to my aquarium right now is nitrogen.. I'll see how the plants react on daily dosing this week. If the new leaves are still pale I'll consider adding ADA Green Brighty Nitrogen.
 
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