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Carpet plant.

Lee iley

Member
Joined
19 Aug 2018
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383
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Preston
Hi guys was just wondering what plant is best for a carpet in a low tech tank in sand. I will put root tabs in just saves me taking the sand out to replace with soil. My tank is 80% covered with soil and plants. Just be nice to have a carpet affect on the little bit of sand I have.

Cheers Lee
 
It is possible to grow a carpet, as such, low-energy but it takes time and probably won't be anywhere near as compact and dense as one grown with CO2. Take a look at this thread https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/low-tech-lawns.32597/ it also has a list of suitable plants.
You'd probably increase your chances of success if you use soil or Gucci substrate like Tropica Aquarium Soil. Personally, I'd cover all my bases and use soil and water column fertz. You might also try adding LC, at least to begin with; it might help get things off to a better start.
 
A small/short plant all the way down at the substrate level, will have a hard time in low energy / low light condition to spread.. Some easy plants still do, but ti can take very long. My latest personal experience it took Lilaeopsis brasiliensis over 2 years in a relatively strong lit tank at 20cm depth to spread over an 80 cm surface. Also on sand, tho the tank contains a clay based dirt soil at the back ground, this plant allthough at the front probaly feeds of it as well.

I would definitively do it again for a low energy tank, a layer of clay soil below it in the slooped back ground parts.

Lately i'm bussy with a new low energy project also planned with a carpet, several smaller plant sp. Not yet fully desided but likely Dwarf Sag and Helantium tenellum broadleaf. For now i do not know excactly when this all will happen, that desicion is not mine to make. I hope soon..

But since all plants thrive with a well developed strong root system and with this it will be easier for it to transitioning to submersed. I'm definitively go for a sufficiently long dry start periode with a sufficient amount of plants. This will significantly speed up the process and make it easier on the plants to go through the transplant shock, let it patiently grow a desent network of roots and the transition after flooding will only benefit.

That is where you make it hard on a plant in a low tech doing all that submersed. Giving an emersed form young plant first, a transplant shock, than it needs to grow roots and than it needs to transition while you take away huge amounts of its basic needs "Light and CO²" It can't do much with ferts either if it doesn't have enough of the first 2.. Than you are asking for difficulty and a (Actualy completely unnatural) troublesome start..

Low tech? Carpet? IMHO Dry start to the resque!.. ;)
 
Last edited:
Low tech? Carpet? IMHO Dry start to the resque!.. ;)
I agree, if it's an option I'd do it that way too...

Low-energy lawns and the Dry Start Method
One of the biggest bugbears of the low-energy way is the length of time it can take to establish a lawn of foreground plants. However, it is possible to give your plants a head start by using the DSM (dry start method). The internet is a valuable source of information on the DSM with a variety of methodologies achieving a similar goal. But for most it simply involves growing plants in a wet substrate for 2-6 weeks before the aquarium is flooded. This allows plants to use the aerial advantage to become firmly established. In addition, whilst plant roots are growing in they oxygenate the rhizosphere which accelerates the bacterial driven processes of tank cycling and substrate mineralisation.

The DSM has the added advantage of being algae free (no water), and of being less labour intensive. For instance, there are no water changes and nutrient dosing isn’t necessary, although fertiliser can be added to the substrate to help establish a lawn quicker. Foliar feeding with a dilute nutrient solution can also help, but if the solution is too concentrated it may burn plant leaves; I use 3 mls of TNC Complete per litre of water. But when all said and done, the key to a successful dry start is very high humidity, so all that’s really required is regular misting and a tank cover; clingfilm usually suffices. This ensures the plants leaves don’t dry out and provides ideal conditions for growth.

The methodology is usually as follows...

1. Add water to a level just below the surface of the substrate; don't let the water level raise above the top of the substrate, which can happen with daily misting.
2. Keep the tank sealed, but let fresh air in for 5 minutes every day to replace the old stagnant air, this may help prevent mould.
3. Spray and mist the plants.
4. Reseal.
5. Repeat daily for between 2 - 6 weeks during which time your lawn should become fully established, and then flood.

Nevertheless, the DSM is not without its downside. Looking at a tank devoid of water for several weeks can stretch delayed gratification to its limits. The humid conditions also favour mould growth, which can becoming a problem. Also, many plants don’t necessarily make the transition from emergent to immersed growth very well, particularly in a low-energy system. Therefore, it may help to achieve better results by choosing easy care, low maintenance plants such as Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, L. novae-zelandiae and Cryptocoryne willisii. Other plants such as Marsilea hirsuta, M. crenata, Staurogyne repens, and Micranthemum 'Monte Carlo', may not be as low maintenance but might still be worth a go. Plants nursery raised in their emergent growth form will be better suited to the DSM.

Low-energy lawns, bioavailable carbon or CO2 and DSM
Another way to establish a lawn in a shorter period of time is to simply go high-energy for a while and use bioavailable carbon or CO2 in conjunction with an appropriate high-energy fertiliser dosing and water changing regime. Once the lawn has been satisfactorily established both carbon and fertiliser can gradually be tapered to zero over a period of 2 – 4 weeks. This gives the plants time to adapt to low energy life; after which the rest of the aquarium can be planted. The method is even more effective if it's combined with the DSM, a la the Barr Report - Hybrid methods, fusing dry start + Excel with non CO2, which uses carbon for the first 2 – 3 weeks after flooding https://barrreport.com/threads/hybrid-methods-fusing-dry-start-excel-with-non-co2.4231/.
 
Another way to establish a lawn in a shorter period of time is to simply go high-energy for a while

I didn't have much succes with this one.. Had a high tech for 2 years with a hair grass carpet and some MC growing.. After pulling the CO² plug, the shock was to drastic, 80% gone within a few months, mc totaly gone hair grass bits left. The only 2 plants in the tank taking it without any ado was bolbitis and Anubias and the mosses.. Have no submersed stems left in this tank. I also had a massive die back in the big lush java ferns and the Buce going from high to low tech. Maybe i was just unlucky by chance choosing a lot of plants not taking that transition very well or 2 years at 30ppm simply is to much and to long.

But the DS method, simply looking at nature it's actualy the most logical approach.. Since bog plants didn't evolve as hydrophytes and only take flooding very well whit a fully matured root system. I guess not only biological maturity from the substrate but also the energy a plant stores in its roots, make coop better with transitioning to submersed. :)

Oh btw, not yet much in use in the aqaurium hobby.. Spraying with Root stimulator gives plants a great headstart and mosses go nuts on it. My favorite is..
http://www.cannagardening.com/videos/canna_rhizotonic
 
Thanks for the replys guys I can't dry start it because I've no other tank to put all my fish and plants in it at the minute. It was an option I was thinking about.

Cheers Lee
 
Whatever you do you will need to ensure good lighting levels at the substrate, even then in low tech forming a good carpet will take time. Species selection can of course help... If you were to be comfortable with a slightly looser, taller carpet than you will have seen in photos of high tech carpets, something like dwarf sag could be great. I have grown this in low light with a sand substrate and no fertilisation, and it still throws out runners with baby plants. I've also had some success with small patches of Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae, Hellanthium tenellum, and dwarf hairgrass though progress was slower due to smaller nature of these plants. Definately worth buying a decent amount of tissue culture pots and taking your time with planting it to get a decent distribution of small pieces to start with (I have taken dwarf hairgrass down to clump sizes of about 6-8 leaves worth before now and it was definately worth it if you have the patience). I also know people who have done well with Marsilea hirsuta in low tech tanks with sand over a nutrient rich base layer (like your root tabs option). Often with these things it can be a case of experimenting with a few plants until you find one that suits your conditions. But!... be sure to give the plants enough time to adapt to their new home before assuming they will never grow. If they arnt dying off, its a good sign... again patience is required!
 
Thanks matt great reply. I have had dwarf hair grass in the past and had success might go for that one again.

Cheers Lee
 
Great. Bear in mind there are a could of different sub species. Eleocharis Parvula is a bit shorter than the standard hairgrass (acicularis) and reasonably available too but slightly greater demands.... it's parvula I use. Acicularis can be 10cm tall (and montevidensis which is a bit rarer can get as tall as the tank!).
 
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