I won’t do it intentionally, but if I am on vacation and my timer gets stuck and won’t shut off light and CO2. I got scared as my timer just broke and stuck at the on position shortly before my planned vacation. Will 24/7 photo period stops plants from uptaking CO2 and gas fish to death? What harm can continuous photo period do to plants.
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Is it disastrous having light and CO2 on 24/7
- Thread starter tiger15
- Start date
Hi all,
Not sure about the CO2 effects.
A long time ago I had some very yellow frogbit in one of the tanks in the lab. and I couldn't work out why. I started feeding them more, I gave them different iron chelates etc. but all with the same result, reasonably large rosettes of very yellow leaves. The plants didn't die, they just looked horrible and sickly.
I was only ever in the lab. when the lights were on and I could see that the mechanical time switch was keeping time, and that the timing pins were in position. One evening I was working late and when I came back past the lab. at ~20:00 and I could see the tank lights were still on.
The lights had (and I still have the same) time switch with a button on the side for "timer" or "on" and at some point it had been changed from "timed" to "constantly on". I don't know when exactly, but the Frogbit had been yellow for several months, so I imagine it was several months of 24 hours light.
When I changed the timer back to "timed" the plants greened up over the next few weeks.
cheers Darrel
Not sure about the CO2 effects.
It depends on the plant, some grow effectively under constant illumination and they actually commercially grow hydroponic lettuces etc. under 24 hour light.
A long time ago I had some very yellow frogbit in one of the tanks in the lab. and I couldn't work out why. I started feeding them more, I gave them different iron chelates etc. but all with the same result, reasonably large rosettes of very yellow leaves. The plants didn't die, they just looked horrible and sickly.
I was only ever in the lab. when the lights were on and I could see that the mechanical time switch was keeping time, and that the timing pins were in position. One evening I was working late and when I came back past the lab. at ~20:00 and I could see the tank lights were still on.
The lights had (and I still have the same) time switch with a button on the side for "timer" or "on" and at some point it had been changed from "timed" to "constantly on". I don't know when exactly, but the Frogbit had been yellow for several months, so I imagine it was several months of 24 hours light.
When I changed the timer back to "timed" the plants greened up over the next few weeks.
cheers Darrel
Ed Wiser
Member
You can come back with some really nice algae.
I don't mind coming back to take care of algae. What I worry is fish and/or plant wipe out.
I have already encountered one disaster in my previous vacation. Before I left, I replaced a new CO2 cylinder to assure CO2 wouldn't run out during my absence. But I didn't have enough time to adjust the CO2 to check that the bps was stable. When I returned home, the house stink as the tank had turned into green pea fish soup. 10 lb of CO2 was dumped in 2 weeks, total fish wipe out, but no dead plants, just algae infestation. In subsequent cleanup, algae was taken care of and plants were restored to healthy conditions.
I have already encountered one disaster in my previous vacation. Before I left, I replaced a new CO2 cylinder to assure CO2 wouldn't run out during my absence. But I didn't have enough time to adjust the CO2 to check that the bps was stable. When I returned home, the house stink as the tank had turned into green pea fish soup. 10 lb of CO2 was dumped in 2 weeks, total fish wipe out, but no dead plants, just algae infestation. In subsequent cleanup, algae was taken care of and plants were restored to healthy conditions.
Andrew T
Member
Maybe invest in a smart timer? Then you’ll be able to control it while on the go. Or better yet, an aquarium controller but those can get expensive.
Chuck Turtleman
Member
If I was even remotely worried about my CO2 being stuck in the "on" position, believe I would shut it off while on vacation. If the lights are high intensity perhaps cut the photoperiod back too until you return. Assuming you aren't going to be gone for more than a couple of weeks, the tank should be fine (though likely needing a good wipe down). I've run out of CO2 for that long in the past to no ill effects.
I have used a variety of timers over the years, both electronic and mechanical, and they all failed at some point. Smart timer is no exception, say if the battery is dead while you are away.
Timer can get stuck in the off or on position.
In the off position, fish will be safe but plants will be starved of photosynthesis. Will plants survive 2 to 3 weeks without photo periods?
In the on position, will fish be gassed to death because plants can’t catch up with CO2 consumption or just melt down in continuous lighting?
Timer can get stuck in the off or on position.
In the off position, fish will be safe but plants will be starved of photosynthesis. Will plants survive 2 to 3 weeks without photo periods?
In the on position, will fish be gassed to death because plants can’t catch up with CO2 consumption or just melt down in continuous lighting?
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Many timers have the over riding on and off button, and if you forget to switch it back, it will be on or off forever. This is why I like the old fashion INTERMATIC timer in which the over riding switch resumes regular schedule at programmed time.
Just wonder if you have fish with the frogbit tank, if so, do you see any stress on the fish as they have been deprived of sleep for months.
Fish are equally important to me so I am concerned for both plants and fish.
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Good shout.
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
I like old school heavy duty <"analogue mechanical timers"> as well.
I didn't see the fish very often (Corydoras hastatus), but they seemed to be fine. It is quite a dark and gloomy tank at substrate level, so that might have helped.
cheers Darrel
This is/was my most reliable timer. Mine was years old before I even used it on my fish tank. It outlasted all the B&Q "cheapy" timers and even my wireless controlled sockets. Currently repurposed each year to turn on outside Xmas lights.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMETU17.html
Of course if you want 100% reliability it is not cheap, which is why I now use a PLC. Mine has been running for over 2 1/2 years and not missed a beat.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-a-plc-to-control-your-fish-tank.42993/
Also used by Zeus
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads...ntrol-your-fish-tank.42993/page-3#post-489803
and Filip Krupa
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/2000l-high-tech-beast.53176/page-5#post-534620
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMETU17.html
Of course if you want 100% reliability it is not cheap, which is why I now use a PLC. Mine has been running for over 2 1/2 years and not missed a beat.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-a-plc-to-control-your-fish-tank.42993/
Also used by Zeus
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads...ntrol-your-fish-tank.42993/page-3#post-489803
and Filip Krupa
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/2000l-high-tech-beast.53176/page-5#post-534620
Ed Wiser
Member
I use a GHL Profilux but also use Kasa wifi plugs and powerstrips for tanks that are smaller.
https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs
Great way to run a tank when you just want to set a timer to turn on lights and Co2 selnoid and be able to tap a switch on your smart phone to turn off the filter when feeding fish or changing water.
https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs
Great way to run a tank when you just want to set a timer to turn on lights and Co2 selnoid and be able to tap a switch on your smart phone to turn off the filter when feeding fish or changing water.
Interesting that you are with me in finding out heavy duty mechanical timer works best. I have used a number of digital timers in the past and now returned to using old fashion mechanical. The plug in digital timers may be more accurate in keeping time, but they don't necessary last longer than mechanical as they all contain a mechanical switch that will break down. Programming of digital is not as intuitive as simply moving pins in mechanical, and even reading what has been programmed is not transparent. Mechanical all lose or gain a little time daily, and big time in power outage, but readjustment is as simple as turning the wheel to match the clock time. It's a pain that I need to read the instruction each time to reprogram a digital as I don't do frequent enough to remember.
Timer is a critical piece of safety equipment for CO2 tank. I used to operate two timers, one for the light and one for CO2 so I can turn on and off CO2 one hour before light on and off like everyone does. But for safety concern, I return to using one timer for both to assure that light and CO2 will always be synchronized. With two timers, there is risk of one timer gets stuck resulting in CO2 without light, or worst, 24/7 CO2 without light that assures fish wipe out. I am no scare monger as I have already experienced a wipe out from CO2 mal functioning.
Hi all,
We had all the glasshouse sockets re-wired (to IP67), and I told them right at the start of the tendering process that the time switches had to be suitable to work with HID lamps. Needless to say all the timed sockets installed were electronic and they were all fried the first time they tested them with the discharge lamps. After that they made me stop using the HP sodium lights, because I couldn't plug the time switches into the new IP67 sockets.
I also had the lights failed by the PAT electrical tester for having "the wrong fuse" for a 400W appliance.
cheers Darrel
That is why I had mine originally, they were to run the 400 W High Pressure Sodium grow-lights in the glasshouse.
We had all the glasshouse sockets re-wired (to IP67), and I told them right at the start of the tendering process that the time switches had to be suitable to work with HID lamps. Needless to say all the timed sockets installed were electronic and they were all fried the first time they tested them with the discharge lamps. After that they made me stop using the HP sodium lights, because I couldn't plug the time switches into the new IP67 sockets.
I also had the lights failed by the PAT electrical tester for having "the wrong fuse" for a 400W appliance.
cheers Darrel
The internal battery dies in about 3 years, about the same longevity of a mechanical timer. Yes, you can revive a digital with a new battery, but if dies in the middle of your vacation, the outcome is the same. For mechanical, I only count on 3 year service, and replace when it dies. I anticipate the possibility of any timer could die in the middle of my vacation, but by using one timer to control both light and CO2, I eliminate the possibility of continuous CO2 without light which is fatal. Continuous light with CO2 or continuous darkness without CO2 is bad, but I haven’t heard that it is fatal.
