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Ammannia Pedicatella 'Golden'

@Hanuman could you post a second reply instead of adding such a large portion of text through edit a day later? It would be helpful because then those who have set the thread on watch will get a notification that more have been added to the thread :thumbup:
No because I did the edit not long after posting late at night thinking I was online but I wasn't. Once I was the next day it went trough. :thumbup:
There is pretty obviously more to this plant than that. My tank is also experimental in that i am using inert substrate, this is not commonly used with the most challenging plants. Since Golden curls for me in both the sand and in soil cup, it seems in that in my tank the problem does not lie there. Data points like that (however unscientific they may be) contribute to our wider understanding. I wish more people who grow this plant would chime in with their data points. Maybe eventually a pattern will emerge, and we will all have learned something.
That's exactly what I am saying in my reply. Putting the curling on EI is far too easy and too simplistic. You are just one example among more than a dozen I have seen with the plant curling, all in different conditions, so EI, or lean are for that matter irrelevant in my opinion.
 
I’m going to be honest, I still have not seen any picture example of ammannia golden growing clean flat leaves in standard EI. Everyone I see growing ammannia well are using some kind of modified dosing, whether that be lean ( hope the mention of the L word doesn’t offend any 😆) whether that be modified micro nutrients, macro nutrients blah blah blah.
I am happy to be proven wrong.

Secondly I am under the impression that Raj mahakul uses nh4no3 for nitrogen? I thought This goes against EI thoughts that ammonia causes algae? Again still not standard EI.
 
I've noticed you're using EI as a shortcut for something. Is there any universally accepted EI formula to begin with? Or do you mean just the general strategy 'all nutrients in excess'?
 
I've noticed you're using EI as a shortcut for something. Is there any universally accepted EI formula to begin with? Or do you mean just the general strategy 'all nutrients in excess'?
I use EI to represent standard dosing of kno3, kh2po4, K2so4 and csmb
To
30 No3
3 Po4
30 K
0.5 Fe.
Say, if someone were using less light or no co2 and cut these numbers in half or even less I would still consider that EI.
But once the compounds are changed then it is no longer EI to me.
 
@plantnoobdude , interestingly, quite the same is often called PMDD (poor man's dosing drops) in ours, often by explicit opponents of EI. :D
Obviously, we cannot determine whether EI contributes to particular growth defect without taking other nutrients into consideration. As long as Ca, Mg, Na, S, Cl and HCO3- are not defined, no discussion may lead to sensible results. That said, I fully accept an argument that other variables can be at play: a sudden change of composition, CO2 level or lighting, temperature, water flow & oxygenation, and possibly other.
 
Just because Plantnoobdude is growing very nice Golden using one technique, it doesn't mean that it can't be grown well by using other techniques.

I would be happy to learn from someone dosing EI how to grow the Golden well (I suspect it will be linked to super low Gh/kH), so if you know of people doing this, please invite them to join UKAPS and start a journal with photos! Not enough journals of real plants, too much theory for people like me without a chemistry background :)
 
Just because Plantnoobdude is growing very nice Golden using one technique, it doesn't mean that it can't be grown well by using other techniques.
Most definitely agree! Except for the “very nice” they definitely have a bit more to go in terms of colouration and plant form.

I would be happy to be proven wrong by someone who has grown ammannia consistently in EI. Since that’d mean my complex dosing is no longer needed…. Just that I, so far haven’t seen such an example.
 
Secondly I am under the impression that Raj mahakul uses nh4no3 for nitrogen?
He was but he tells me that he switched to KNO3 and didn't see any change in the plant behavior. In fact because I don't like blowing hot air I asked him directly to confirm about some of the curling on his plants. He said that those that were curling were due to pruning/replanting. He also sent me a pic of his tank several month after that picture you see in FAN's website. They look flat to me. Yet he still insist that his don't look as well as Tom's who has grown them in full EI. And by full EI I mean full EI, not some watered down or modified dosing as you put it. So clearly this tells me that high ferts here is not the problem. In fact I asked Tom as well, because you see, I like to have info from all sides before I write anything. His answer won't surprise anyone here. Major problem with Ammania curling/stunting in high tech tanks is CO2 related.

Raj's tank:
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Everyone I see growing ammannia well are using some kind of modified dosing, whether that be lean ( hope the mention of the L word doesn’t offend any 😆) whether that be modified micro nutrients, macro nutrients blah blah blah.
I am happy to be proven wrong.
The term EI was initially used in some post above by @erwin123 as a general term to describe high ferts (that's how I understood it). Majority of people don't really go full EI 30-3-30 nowadays but some do. But beyond definitions, you have several examples of this plant being grown in high fert water column. Above I gave one. Tom's signature tank is another. Marian Sterian tank yet another. Probably the best Ammannia I have seen anywhere. Although he was dosing 8.4 ppm No3, 10.5 ppm K and 1.4 ppm PO4, his accumulated target was 20-30 ppm NO3 - 30ppm K and 0.2 PO4 weekly. He did that by simply lowering WC volumes. All this by having 50-60ppm CO2. One can call that what they want, EI, b@stard EI, modified EI, whatever it doesn't matter to me as it all comes down to the same: high ferts and if one wants to be picky, low PO4, I'm fine with that too.

Tom's tank:
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Merian's tank:
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I don't see any stunting or curling in any of those tanks and I am sure one can keep looking and find more. But my experience is that I see far more stunting and curling on tanks from people who have a lax attitude toward CO2, being low ferts or high ferts.
I would be happy to learn from someone dosing EI how to grow the Golden well (I suspect it will be linked to super low Gh/kH), so if you know of people doing this, please invite them to join UKAPS and start a journal with photos! Not enough journals of real plants, too much theory for people like me without a chemistry background :)
See above, hopefully that's not theoretical. 😉

Now to keep everyone happy, the Ammannia pedicatella will be easier to handle in low fert environment with a highly fertile substrate. This does not mean is can't be grown fully formed in a rich water column fert environment as long as CO2 is properly dialed in. Pictures above prove it.
 
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So, @Hanuman , do I gather correctly that you guess that inconsistent CO2 dosing is at the core of the problem?
 
inconsistent CO2 dosing is at the core of the problem?
Inconsistent and insufficient CO2 in relation to fert and light availability. Liebig’s Law. I thought that the tanks above proved that high ferts was not the problem regarding stunting and curling...
 
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Inconsistent and insufficient CO2 in relation to fert and light availability. Liebig’s Law. I thought that the tanks above proved that high ferts was not the problem regarding stunting and curling...
Completely agree with all your comments above.

Many suffer from nutrient tunnel vision. When all you have is a hammer everything looks like a nail.

There are dozens of ways to get CO2 wrong. And many other things too.

Get CO2 and the other things right and regardless of dosing everything else is much, much easier.
 
All this by having 50-60ppm CO2. One can call that what they want, EI, b@stard EI, modified EI, whatever it doesn't matter to me as it all comes down to the same: high ferts and if one wants to be picky, low PO4, I'm fine with that too.

Completely agree with all your comments above.

Many suffer from nutrient tunnel vision. When all you have is a hammer everything looks like a nail.

There are dozens of ways to get CO2 wrong. And many other things too.

Get CO2 and the other things right and regardless of dosing everything else is much, much easier.

Noted that higher levels of fert dosing seem to go very well with 50-60ppm CO2 , so those who are able to achieve such levels in their tank and have fish that don't mind, this appears to be one easy way to success with this plant (I'm sure all the other plants will love the 50-60ppm CO2 as well!)

With that amount of CO2 in the tank +light , I presume that the faster growing plants in same tank as the Golden are sucking up the ferts from the water column at a super fast rate as well.

I would prefer not to run my CO2 at 50-60ppm (I think my shrimp might be bothered by that much CO2), so hopefully there are those who are succeeding with the plant without that much CO2 that I can learn from. :)
 
Noted that higher levels of fert dosing seem to go very well with 50-60ppm CO2
I would prefer not to run my CO2 at 50-60ppm (I think my shrimp might be bothered by that much CO2), so hopefully there are those who are succeeding with the plant without that much CO2 that I can learn from
Looks like you are cherry picking information and disregarding the lesson you could learn from those 3 tanks.

So let's back it up a bit. That 50-60ppm of CO2 is a number given to me by Marian. Could be less could be more. I've learned to be skeptical about CO2 ppm content in water due to how we measure it indirectly. So it's at best an estimation. Regardless of those CO2 numbers, the above tanks have shown unequivocally that ferts ARE NOT the problem. So now that you know that, you can extrapolate it to your situation without the need to have that much CO2 in the tank or having examples of 100 tanks. Adjust light and ferts accordingly. In fact to counter your argument, simply look at Tom's tank. There are fish and shrimps in there and they look just fine to me. I can't tell you how much ppm of CO2 there is in there, as that information was not communicated to me by Tom, but certainly more than enough considering the plants I see. Ammannia looks fantastic as well. And in Marian's tank there were some Pristella maxillaris. So that's that.

Some plants will be more sensitive than others to small changes, that we all know, but keep in mind that in an aquarium we are not in nature and despite our best effort to keep things stable, tanks are always bound to be somewhat unstable whether that is due to human intervention or a lack thereof. Reason I say this is because I see many people thinking that we can attain perfect form, color etc for all plants in our tank. That's just an illusion given by snaptshots of tanks. All these beautiful tanks you see right and left having plants with perfect form are just pictures of tanks taken at a specific moment, and I can tell you with a high degree of certainty that even those tanks go through phases where some plants stunt, others don't etc etc. But obviously many times over people don't show the tanks in those conditions. When I see your Ammannia in your tank they looks pretty fine to me.
 
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I'm sure all the other plants will love the 50-60ppm CO2 as well!
There are some scientific papers on the question of CO2.
Half saturation rate for most plants is between 100 and 200 µM (4.4 to 8.8 mg/L).
Values over 1000 µM (44 mg/L) have detrimental effect on plants.
 
the above tanks have shown unequivocally that ferts ARE NOT the problem.
Thank you for meticulously collected documentation. It's definitely valuable. However, when it comes to conclusions, I see it rather differently.
You (and others) have demonstrated that good results are possible both with low and high dosing of nitrates, phosphates, and potassium. At the same time, we may take for certain that bad results are possible both with low and high dosing of nitrates, phosphates, and potassium.
That's not sufficient for a conclusion that ferts are not the problem. It says nothing about other nutrients, and nothing about their relative abundance. I think we should not haste to dismiss the influence of mineral composition of water as insignificant.
 
Looks like you are cherry picking information and disregarding the lesson you could learn from those 3 tanks.

So let's back it up a bit. That 50-60ppm of CO2 is a number given to me by Marian. Could be less could be more. I've learned to be skeptical about CO2 ppm content in water due to how we measure it indirectly. So it's at best an estimation. Regardless of those CO2 numbers, the above tanks have shown unequivocally that ferts ARE NOT the problem. So now that you know that, you can extrapolate it to your situation without the need to have that much CO2 in the tank or having examples of 100 tanks. Adjust light and ferts accordingly. In fact to counter your argument, simply look at Tom's tank. There are fish and shrimps in there and they look just fine to me. I can't tell you how much ppm of CO2 there is in there, as that information was not communicated to me by Tom, but certainly more than enough considering the plants I see. Ammannia looks fantastic as well. And in Marian's tank there were some Pristella maxillaris. So that's that.

Some plants will be more sensitive than others to small changes, that we all know, but keep in mind that in an aquarium we are not in nature and despite our best effort to keep things stable, tanks are always bound to be somewhat unstable whether that is due to human intervention or a lack thereof. Reason I say this is because I see many people thinking that we can attain perfect form, color etc for all plants in our tank. That's just an illusion given by snaptshots of tanks. All these beautiful tanks you see right and left having plants with perfect form are just pictures of tanks taken at a specific moment, and I can tell you with a high degree of certainty that even those tanks go through phases where some plants stunt, others don't etc etc. But obviously many times over people don't show the tanks in those conditions. When I see your Ammannia in your tank they looks pretty fine to me.


In fact that happens in all of our tanks as plant mass increases, CO2 uptake increases. Unless you manually adjust CO2, it normally decreases in the water column with time. In my former scape, I always slightly increased CO2 every few weeks and decreased it when I did a big trim.

Hi Hanuman,

I am 100% agreeing with you that there are some who can grow the plant well under EI based on your examples.
But there are equally some who say it grows better under leaner dosing and I've also seen their photos.
I guess all we can do is to share our experience with this plant and our various tank parameters, and learn from those who are successful with the plant.
And also learn from negative experience like my recent stunting of the Goldens :)


Here's a example of lean dosing. (I'm really not saying its the only way to grow the plant), but this is the results of my internet research on this plant:

 
But there are equally some who say it grows better under leaner dosing and I've also seen their photos.
That's what I said earlier:
the Ammannia pedicatella will be easier to handle in low fert environment with a highly fertile substrate. This does not mean is can't be grown fully formed in a rich water column fert environment as long as CO2 is properly dialed in. Pictures above prove it.
The only reason I posted all the above is because you implied that EI / high ferts was the reason why the plant couldn't look beautiful and curled. In fact to support even more what you say above, here is what Tom has to say about it:
Low ferts or absent ferts in the water with ADA soil is easiest. Reduces CO2 demand since nutrients are more limiting than CO2.
By ADA soil, I would bet he also means fresh soil, at least less than 6 months old.
And also learn from negative experience like my recent stunting of the Goldens :)
Most, including Raj and Marian have had that plant stunt at some point. I know, they've told me and you've seen it. It's happened to me too. In the cases of Marian, his Ammannia tend to stunt when he was doing large water changes. When he reduced the WC %, they stoped doing that. This tells me one thing. It's not the amount of ferts that was the problem but the shock due to the sudden drop in ferts. Reducing the WC % reduced the fert drop shock. Some plants are just more sensitive to changes than others. In the case of Ammannia you would probably spend more time seeing that plant with good form in a well maintained low fert tank than in a high fert tank simply because it would grow slower, you'd had to trim less etc, putting the plant into less shock. But in a low fert tank if your maintenance is crappy, CO2 is crappy, soil is depleted etc you'll have the same issues than in a high fert tank.
 
Under Lean dosing thread
Post# #103
It was already confirmed that this plant can be grown under higher dosing, especially when the GH is high, higher Fe/Micros can be dosed. but Marian doses for NPK are rather not that high, even though he uses Fe/Trace at bit higher levels along with GH of 5-7 range.

Sudipta growing them in non Co2:
His Non Co2 tank
if this plant truly needed very high co2, then it should totally fail to grow under Non Co2 tank, Sudpita tank with high lights, lean dosing, rich Substrate (NH4 based). Not only you don’t need high Co2, you also don’t need high nutrients in order to grow this plant under the high lights.

Tom Barr’s Garage Tank with Co2, No Liquid fertilizer Dosing, old aqua soil can be found here
in this case both Sudpia and Tom’s Ammania Golden both look like they are growing much better than what you usually see in most High Tech, high dosing, Co2 enriched tanks. And am not referring to thickness of the leaves or stem, but overall health of the plant. Where in rich co2 they will obtain thicker leaves and stems.

Plantnoobdude experimental tank can be found here
every time he made changes to the nutrients, weather the ratio or the nutrients levels, plant responded differently. His goal was to grow all these plants together under the same setting of parameters because there was a misconception that they cannot be grown together due to their nutrient or Co2 demand. some of those listed plants: ludwigia pantanal, rotala wallichii, ammannia pedicellata golden, tonina fluviatilis, Cuphea anagalloidea

Tom Barr is strong believer of Liebig’s Law and this is what he have to say about the “Ammania Golden” after chatting with Tom Barr, this is what I gathered from him:
Direct quote from him:
“The whole genus is found above the water line. Not even saturated soil but it grows there fine. Might about to find exceptions out in nature but not many. The Ammannia species do well in rich sediments. I don’t need to dose at all this even with old soil. 2 years or more old. Easy to grow. The flip side is full EI and lots of trimming. They are weeds. The Lythraceae family is mostly like this. Some can do great at absent water column ferts. More ferts means more work in many cases. Hence doing away with the CO2 gas as the next step. It grows, but it’s harder to get the nicer richer colors. I’ve used the plantex CMS tub for the last few years, and add the B myself. It’s not an ideal trace but it’s worked and had a long history. Cheap etc. these species can go months on end without any traces added to the water. I get a B little better color if I do add, but totally not needed. You can add A crassicaulis variety and the normal gracilius, the partae/ red Neasea and a couple of others to these observations. Both absent dosing and rich max dosing did well, but more work and trimming water changes etc. if you only have Ammannia or mostly, have Ada soil, no need to dose at all I’d argue. They do not care much about water changes either way. Both extremes seem fine and the plant quality was very high. KH was low, 2 or less dKH. The lower, the better. The genus also grows well at fairly low light. 25-35 umol.
Plants take some time to even out all their rubisco enzyme, generally a few weeks
So if the CO2 is rich, they do not need as much, maybe 80% less. If the tank is non CO2, then they need A LOT! 5-10x more. Takes time to make that and have steady levels of carbon feeding into the growth “


#28

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According to Tom Barr:
Fairly New tank
2x week 80% water changes
KH 1-2
Light was about 140-200
CO2 about 60 ppm
NO3 15
PO4 5
K 20
CSM+B 0.1 ppm Fe, 0.2 ppm DTPA Fe and Fe gluconate, total 0.3 ppm Fe
Total 0.2 -0.3 ppm Fe added weekly

In that tank above we have the following weekly doses of Macro/Micros:
N 3.4
P 1.6
K 20
Fe 0.3
Mn 0.02864
Cu 0.00138
Mg 0.02144
Zn 0.00567
Mo 0.00077
B 0.01225

Tom Barr also said that there was no need to add more, this was Max for most things.
Tom Barr believe that too much NH4 gives too much Branching or side shoots
Tom Barr also suggested using high quality Traces/Fe
Tom Barr also stated that family of the plants the Lythraceae is an abnormality



Chat with Marian:
Direct quote from him:
“It does better in aquasoil. The nh4 should play an important role I have tried it in inert substrate as well. It can grow good if the substrate is at least 2 or 3 weeks old, and if it's not full of organics When the substrate is high on organics, the stem melts. The roots are not growing the way they should be. With no good roots, the plant does not grow healthy
But as i said, it grows better in aquasoil. Everything grows better in aquasoil
I have stopped using aquasoil in my big tanks where i keep my plants collection because i have no time to keep it as clean as it should be. After 3 months, the aquasoil accumulates a lot of dirt which causes a lot of problems, like algae, like melting. I have around 70 species in there and it's hard to keep app of them happy in an aquasoil tank
In inert gravel with Root Caps i can grow them without so many melting problems and without so many algae problems
But for example, cuphea does not grow as nice as it does in aquasoil. or maybe i didn't find a way to grow it in good shape in inert gravel. I am still studying
From my experience i can say nothing about this. I don't think that higher nutrient values can have a bad impact on it. For me it grew nice when i did smaller water changes”


Marian also believes that high NPK will grow plant bigger but didn’t provide any numbers, we could use his fertilizer and dosing for reference. Marian Doesn’t use NH4 in is his fertilizer, he has only done so for some experimental after we have chatted about it while back. Under his urea and lean dosing experiment, he said he obtained very small plants but super healthy plants in his 5–6-month old aqua soil. Here:
Lean dosing, Urea as N.jpg



He has also mentioned the following:
Black painted quartz 2-3 mm grain size is his preferred substrate
He also agrees that some of his Ammania weren't looking so good and that he could not grow them any better than this.
The plant can be grown in many conditions
But you need to take in consideration many factors. He also used Sudipta's guides as an example for Ammania
No CO2 will grow this plant very slow and with very short internodes and smaller size leaves
High CO2 will grow it fast, thicker stems, bigger leaves
This is his logic and experience
There isn't a standard
He has grown it in lean dosing as well with high co2, very small plants but super healthy.


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I will repeat again, that this plant can be grown under lean or higher dosing, that’s not the main problem here. This was already demonstrated under the Marschner ratio where using N as Proxy, it was used from 1-7 ppm N range to see if this plant can tolerate those levels under the Post# #103 While some leave damages started to appear once the dosing got extremely high (N), this plant continued to grow and grew straight leaves.
If someone is struggling with this plant weather under lean dosing or Higher dosing, then the problems are likely to be related to their water parameters, substrate, fertilizers or ratios are likely the cause. This also include the quality of their fertilizer such as Micros/Fe etc. If one is growing them decent under different ratio of fertilizer, this would suggest that their water parameters, Substrate are good to begin with. majority of people who can grow them in higher dosing, usually use NH4 enriched substrate such as aqua soil, which helps this plant tremendously. Weather you dose higher dosing or not, in a meanwhile this plant will continue to benefit from the NH4 and continue to do well. The problem may arise for this plant once the sources of NH4 are completely exhausted, which are usually rare in the aquarium. Because most people are almost never limited with NH4 as it is produced by fish and is naturally occurring process. But the problem here would be that too much NO3 usually buildup overtime, depending on how your tank is setup, the NO3 can be eliminated or reduced significantly by the right bacteria which also reduce or eliminate the NO3 that is being dosed into the aquarium. If one were to use higher dosing, especially Micros, they should aim for higher GH such as higher Ca and Mg levels. This usually prevent or help with the mishap from the Micros and at this point the importance of the ratio becomes less important even though it’s still important.

I don’t see the point why someone need to put so much effort to increase their dosing or co2 just to grow this plant when this plant seems to be growing under lean or even No Co2, you would also be putting your livestock at risk if you have any, just to grow this plant. Based on my own experiment and after gathering the data from most of the well-known people along with those who keep Ammania Golden or other picky plant species. I have gathered the following:
Now am not saying that only higher doseres were the only one who suffered here, even the lean dosers were struggling. But, in comparison there were more people who were successful with Ammania when dosing lean compared to those who were dosing high. Even those who were dosing high and keeping Ammania Golden well, they would encounter random issues with this plant such as stunting or twisting of all or some leave of this plant, in most cases bottom leaves were found to be majorly affected while this was not the case for those who kept this plant under lean or didn’t dose the water Colum and only relied on rich NH4 based substrate. Also, most of these people who were dosing higher nutrients were found to be replacing or adding new soil quite often, some were adding NH4 based root tabs quite often. Majority of those who had serious issues with this plant were dosing quite rich doses such as 0.5 ppm Fe from CSM+B along with very rich Macros.

This thread is mainly regarding how to grow “Ammania Golden” and the primary focus should be “how to grow this plant healthy” and It would be wise to do your own experiments and also gather multiple data from multiple people weather its lean or high dosing and then compare it with each other’s and see where and how we could find the proper solution for this plant. It’s not about competition between Lean vs High at this point.
 

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Agreed with most of what is said above. It's been said in previous posts and yes it's not a competition between lean/rich. Never was. But when we see it stirring one way with no actual evidence, it's important to show there are other possibilities so that it doesn't become the same old lean entrenched thread which can confuse people, considering it is definitely not the only way. But yes, as it is agreed by most, the plant is easier to grow in certain conditions, richer substrate + lean dosing being one of them. I'll post some picture once the plant has grown enough. I started growing it again for the past 3 weeks.

As for this:
This thread is mainly regarding how to grow “Ammania Golden” and the primary focus should be “how to grow this plant healthy” and It would be wise to do your own experiments and also gather multiple data from multiple people weather its lean or high dosing and then compare it with each other’s and see where and how we could find the proper solution for this plant. It’s not about competition between Lean vs High at this point.
There isn't a proper or unique solution on how to grow this plant, or any plant for that matter. There are certainly optimal conditions for each plants but considering we all have different objectives (lab research, aquascape, freestyle or whatever) we need to be able to know how to grow plants so that they look acceptable in most conditions. Not everyone wants low tech or high tech. Not everyone wants a rich substrate, some want sand etc. Not everyone grows only 3 SP of plants in their tanks etc. Problem is some people want to have their plant to be in their optimal form while growing them in an environment where the plants simply can't be in its optimal form. I have said this in multiple occasions but we can't expect to have 50 plants SP growing in optimal conditions in the same tank simply because in nature many of these plants have no business being together in the first place and have different requirements.

Also the OP states the following:
While I envisage that Maq will want to dive in to the deep end of chemistry and discuss ratios and Marschner, I'm also totally happy to hear non-scientific views on how we can grow this plant better. Or maybe just post photos of the Golden in your tank! Yes its prone to algae on the lowest leaves - but don't let algae prevent you from posting photos!

No need to back up anything you say with a reference to a phd thesis, sharing your actual experience growing this plant is also very valuable :)
So everyone should have its views wether that's lean or not. The thread seems pretty open to me.
 
N 3.4
P 1.6
K 20
Fe 0.3
Mn 0.02864
Cu 0.00138
Mg 0.02144
Zn 0.00567
Mo 0.00077
B 0.01225
Even this dose which seems quite rich, is actually quite Low once you factor in water changes which’s are being done twice a week at 80%. And Marian who was using higher nutrients as well observed some stunting.

Far as I know both of these people report that moving the plants without roots in the aquarium caused some stunting, which would suggest there is something unfavourable going on in the water column. Healthy plants should not have algae on older leaves or face issues when being replanted.

In my own experience, recently I moved one dozen stems of ammannia from one tank to another, when this happened I saw out of those stems one stem stunted, I trimmed the top off this one and hope that leaves will grow well from sideshoots.

So far there doesn’t seem to be any hard rules for this plant, it can grow in high kh, Low kh, lean or high dosing, Low or high light, rich or inert substrate. But that doesn’t mean one or the other isn’t easier.
Low kh, Low light, lean column, rich substrate seems to be the easiest way to grow this plant.

One thing I have noticed however, is that almost all people successful are using some kind of urea or nh4. Tom Barr with newer soil, Marian with root tabs or urea. I would like to see if this plant can grow in inert substrate, no root tabs, and no3 dosing only, I doubt it. I saw burr from tot mention that he couldn’t grow it in sand. His co2 and plant husbandry skills are on point which suggests something else could be causing these issues.

As for not being able to grow a wide range of plants, I strongly believe that it is possible to grow a wide range of species in one tank providing you have the time. The reason I believe this is because of the countless pictures happi has shared, with dozens of plant species doing well in a single tank.

It stands out to me that for this species lean dosing is favourable since it alleviates some of the pressures on the aquarist such as water changes and perfect co2. A nutrient limited column will allow far more variations in co2 via Liebig. And much less rigid wc schedules. While I understand some may be able to grow this plant in high dosing, Im not sure everyone has the time for two times weekly wc….
 
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