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The Original

As someone who only looks at the pictures and doesn't read much, I really appreciate the style of this journal.

Deliberately broke away from the New Decade, New Decadence journal for that reason @Libba .

Itā€™s a scapers tank this time and hoping to improve the use of hardscape and planting, less talk about how to run a tank and just show your work. Lotā€™s of pictures so potentially others may pick up on something they might find useful, or not šŸ¤·šŸ»ā€ā™‚ļø

What type of moss is that?

If you mean high on the wood at the back, thatā€™s Riccardia chamedryfolia:

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Simply perfection šŸ˜ as always great work so far, followed by great explanation and photos, always love your jurnals very helpful to everyone looks even better now the substrate system is in blended it all together brilliantly.

Looks very natural and also reminds me of lord of the rings and game of thrones type of scenery, hardscape looks spot on i love it, and a bit different in a good way, love harscape heavy scapes.

Dean
 
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Cheers @Deano3

Not gonna lie, thereā€™s a tank rammed with stems in the conservatory and it was very difficult resisting the temptation to simply pack it out with plants as usual šŸ˜‚
 
šŸ¤£šŸ¤£šŸ¤£ i can imagine it was hard for you, but like you say good to try new things sometimes and try something different with a bit more focus on hardscape and less plants be a nice change for you, i think will turn out a stunner,will look great once some fish as im there swimming aroind in all the nooks and crannies.

Also love the valley and the depth the hardscape gives.
 
Cheers @Thea B , also growing fond of this one.

Couple more stages to go yet, hopefully improve it further. Get the first week under our belt then can start adding details and further planting šŸ˜Ž
 
Looking great Geoff. A strong hardscape and concept.
Will be really nice to follow progress of this one and how you deal with all it throws at you.
Ady.
 
Promised a more pictorial journal this time, butā€¦ As an asideā€¦ Interesting observation of the Utricularia graminifolia.

Common thinking is the ammonia from rich soil at startup melts the plant. Tried planting the portions at different depths this time and this tank didnā€™t receive a dark start. At first glance this adds up:

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However, for this to ring true you would expect the portions placed right down deep into the ammonia rich substrate to melt, but the reverse happens:

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Exposed tips melt, buried section trucking along. The state of the UG in the pots is equal, pointing towards the condition of the UG in those pots being sensitive to light/water column exposure immediately after planting. In other words, itā€™s better adapted to the substrate when it comes out of the Tropica labs.

Leaning towards the thinking now that ā€˜best practiceā€™ with the UG 1-2-Grow pots is to completely bury the portions when planting. Meaning entirely, nothing visible at initial planting. Probably feels very counterintuitive to some.

Previously grown UG successfully in a species specific tank in this journal, Somethingā€¦ Somethingā€¦ Shallow Tank.

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Experience from that setup also lends weight to the idea that complete burial correlates with higher survival rate from initial planting. Estimate that the soil is not the problem folks think it is when using the 1-2-Grow pots, canā€™t speak for other methods of UG propagation.

Dug around and the buried portions in this tank look fine. Expect theyā€™ll take their time, but theyā€™ll show up once the UGā€™s food sources are more readily available.
 
An awesome scape with a subplot.
Interested to see how this experiment turns out.

Itā€™s the same for everything thatā€™s gone in this time Tim. Have questions, this rescape offers the opportunity to pursue some answers.

Even the arcuata went from very soft remineralised RODI high tech, then in very hard tap no tech, then back in here <1 KH and 4-5 GH high tech in the last three months. At first trim, want to see the time line in the growth. Always something new to learnā€¦ love this hobby ā¤ļø

Change of plan this time. Completed the first week of daily water changes, this is being decreased to every other day going forwards until thereā€™s new feedback. The floaters showed a decrease in growth. Export job done.

Floaters 100% out:

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Full surface agitation and light coverage restored:

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Full nutrient availability back to the intended planting.
 
Cheers @JoshP12 and always learning from the UKAPS community too! Looking forward to updates on your system bud šŸ˜Ž

A few quick amendments:

the arcuata went from very soft remineralised RODI high tech, then in very hard tap no tech, then back in here <1 KH and 4-5 GH high tech in the last three months.

Yeah, one step too far for the arcuata. Turned to mush and evaporated, one adaptation too many.

Interesting in a broader trend that has been experienced over the years though; putting plants used to high tech into low tech is relatively hassle free, taking plants from a low tech and placing them in high tech is problematic with a lot of stems generally, but not all.

For 200 litres of RODI:

1.6g Calcium Chloride
8.0g Calcium Sulphate
8.0g Magnesium Sulphate
2.8g Potassium Carbonate

Scrapped this remineralisation as did it with the last scape and it worked out fine, nothing worth repeating.

Changed to 90% RO and 10% Cambridgeshire tap to remineralise for something new. Itā€™s also quicker, easier and cheaperā€¦ whatā€™s not to love? šŸ¤·šŸ»ā€ā™‚ļø

Tap water here for anyone who likes crunching numbers:

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Also, RODI water is now just RO water coming out at 6ppm TDS all the way down from 490ppm. Pointless running DI section to knock it down to 0ppm if youā€™re going to remineralise with the source tap water.

In tank TDS is now roughly 120ppm. Not particularly interested in complicating things further than this. Tap water here is pretty comprehensive and has some of everything.

Tap report puts 10% tap mix into RO at Ca 11.1pm and Mg 0.83ppm. Supplementing Mg with a very accurate ā€˜dashā€™ of magnesium sulphate šŸ˜‚ Can already hear those who love their expensive and relatively accurate scales screaming at this blasphemy butā€¦ meh šŸ«¤
 
Hi all,
Tap report puts 10% tap mix into RO at Ca 11.1pm and Mg 0.83ppm. Supplementing Mg with a very accurate ā€˜dashā€™ of magnesium sulphate
I'm taking <"credit for this"> (as well as for the <"Duckweed Index">)
Scrapped this remineralisation as did it with the last scape and it worked out fine, nothing worth repeating.

Changed to 90% RO and 10% Cambridgeshire tap to remineralise for something new. Itā€™s also quicker, easier and cheaperā€¦ whatā€™s not to love?
I honestly think that using your hard, alkaline tap water as your <"remineralising agent is a no brainer">. You aren't going to use very much, so even if you have (justifiable) concerns about the nitrate (NO3-) and phosphate (PO4---) content of your tap water and don't want to use it the tank, you can still use a dash of tap water in RO (or rain water) just to add some hardness and alkainity. Dilution is your friend for everything else.

The only time it wouldn't work is if you want to <"decouple hardness (dGH) and alkalinity (dKH)">, because the tap water will supply 1 : 1 dGH : dKH

cheers Darrel
 
I'm taking <"credit for this"> (as well as for the <"Duckweed Index">)

As you should Darrel šŸ˜Ž

I honestly think that using your hard, alkaline tap water as your <"remineralising agent is a no brainer">.

Using the tap for remineralising definitely. Gave Jamesā€™ remineralisation a whirl previously to see if thereā€™s anything more worthwhile trying. Then, realised quickly that this was the wrong question.

Unfortunately stuck using RO rather than rain water as it hardly rains here. All water (product and waste) gets used though. More ethical in these times given the penchant for daily water changes during the first four weeks. Would argue the work upfront pays dividends in co2 enriched systems, but yeah. However, splash of tap in rainwater would be even easier.

if you have (justifiable) concerns about the nitrate (NO3-) and phosphate (PO4---) content of your tap water and don't want to use it the tank, you can still use a dash of tap water in RO (or rain water) just to add some hardness and alkainity.

Nothing justifiable this time around. Unless restricting available water column nitrate for plant colouration and form, not worrying about this one. Anyone who has been around the block and chased plant forms knows it isnā€™t that simple anyway; higher light intensity (200 PAR+) for stimulus and response, time, heightened K and micro availability for plant function and adaptation compared with macro water column availability, minimal N water column input with high soil based reliability, low system loading, ample oxygen, proximity to co2 mist source during the photoperiod, distribution pattern and very low KH (1<). That and leaving large gaps between single stems. Itā€™s fun whilst youā€™re chasing it, but a lot of effort for some colour.

This timeā€¦ Pretty much an all out green tank so thatā€™s out šŸ˜‚ No fancy species with particular needs except UG. Middle ground will do.

To be fair, could just run hard tap with the rest of the chosen species and call it a day. Only running softer water for more efficient nutrient acquisition and efficiency with co2. Loaded soil with softened water also allows for a simple fert mix of potassium and micros alone for a considerable time, has a long shelf life, doesnā€™t suffer mould issues and nothing is at risk of precipitating out at those concentrations - top up the auto doser every three months. Simple and reliable šŸ¤·šŸ»ā€ā™‚ļø

Less calcium rich water will theoretically preserve the CEC of the soil for longer, allowing for uptake from the soil rather than water column for majority of the planting across the tanks lifespan. Periodic root tabs. Get thereā€™s so many other factors at play here and even more that may be out of any awareness butā€¦ happy to dance in the grey.

The only time it wouldn't work is if you want to <"decouple hardness (dGH) and alkalinity (dKH)">, because the tap water will supply 1 : 1 dGH : dKH

Did this with the last setup running extremely low KH. Whilst a lot of folk are concerned with optimal/brilliant/perfection/glorious parameters for running a system, much more intrigued and curious about the range any given species will thrive in. Much more use when helping others make reliable plant species selections for their tanks.
 
When will we get some photographic updates on this? I'm sure there has been a lot of growth in the first couple of weeks with high lighting.
 
Thereā€™s not much particularly happening @Libba at two weeks old.

This was two days ago, took a few shots walking passed the tank. Blyxa is waking up:

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Carpets are slow and steady. HC at the back doing its initial leggy routine before spreading outwards, Glosso mid-ground just settling in, Marsilea hirsuta and crenata mix in the foreground is jostling for space but finding itā€™s way:

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I'm sure there has been a lot of growth in the first couple of weeks with high lighting.

The shear amount of tannins being released will be dampening that light down some. Every morning the tank looks like an elephant has done a big giant pee in the tank šŸ˜† Waiting for that to subside. Thereā€™s some additional bacterial film on the wood to keep clear, but thatā€™s about it:

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All pretty slow schedule. Low plant mass startups give longer grow in times, will be more interesting from one month onwards no doubt. Marine tank and garden have been stealing any spare time this month. This thing just needs to get on with itself and has been running like clockwork so far.
 
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