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Re: Help with Algae required, Hair or BBA not 100%

oswoldy said:
Hi Guys/Girls,
I am having a little trouble with Algae in my tank and I don't know how to get rid of it. I have tried removing all the affected leaves, reducing feeding, removing the air stones and less surface agitation but nothing appears to be working all advice greatly appreciated.

Tank Tests/Details:-
Ammonia: 0ppm
NitrIte: 0ppm
NitrAte: 20ppm
PH: 7.0
KH: 71.6ppm - 4 Drops
GH: 143.2ppm - 8 Drops
Temperature: 26.9 - Due to weather
Lighting: 2x 20w T8 = 1.3WPG on from 10am till 10pm daily
Ferts: API Leaf Zone - 10ml once a week
CO2: None
Filtration: Eheim Pro 3 2073 rated at 1050lph makes all my plants sway.
Tank: Fluval Roma 125L (33 USG)
Maintenance: Water change once a week 10-30% (Inc Sand Vac), Internal/External glass clean, Filtered cleaned when flow is reduced.

If I have missed anything please let me know and I will add it.

Many Thanks
Mike

Mike

The lighting period is too long - knock it down to 6 hrs and it would be advisable to add some easy easycarbo per day say 5mls per day to start with and increase as plants grow, the reason for adding easy carbo is that you are not adding any Co2.

Regards
paul.
 
Re: Help with Algae required, Hair or BBA not 100%

oswoldy said:
Hi,
Thank you for taking the time to reply. I will cut it back will 8hours be OK, I can do six if necessary but would prefer (for asthetics) for it to be 8.

Could it also be due to me only feeding once a week (10ml)?

Regards
Mike


Mike

My personnel view its lighting too long a light period. I have two tank - 200 litre light are on for 7 hrs and a 20 litre that the light are only on for 6hrs and plants are fine.

Regards
Paul.
 
Re: Help with Algae required, Hair or BBA not 100%

Hi Mike.
I fully support what Flyfisherman is telling you. Photoperiod too long.
I have 3 tanks in my house (don't ask,....... it evolved :lol: ). 1 is hi tech (hi lighting and full CO2) and 2 are lo tech (lo lighting and no CO2).
On the lo tech setups I only run the lights for 6 hours a day, but here's the important bit, make sure there is enough nutrients for the plants. I do, and my plants are healthy (just slow growing) and no algae in sight. :D
I'm not familiar with API leaf zones' chemical composition, but it is far better to overdose than underdose for sure. If you overdose, there will always be enough nutrients for the plants and therefore they remain healthy and will not be attacked by algae. However, if you are underdosing, your plants will suffer and they will be attacked by algae, at every opportunity, as they start to degrade. Any excess nutrients in the tank will not affect the livestock in any way, so don't worry about that.
This next bit may sound bizarre to you but trust me on this, because I'm now doing it myself. If your tank is planted and you are not injecting CO2, it will definitely help your plants if you reduce the water changes to 6 monthly (yes, once every 6 months :wideyed: ). Healthy plants = no algae.
Still keep up the filter maintenance and glass cleaning and definitely remove algae affected leaves.
I don't know what my water parameters are as my test kits went in the bin when I started dosing EI about 4 months ago, but that's another story. All I can say is they must be OK because my fish and plants are telling me that and I ain't got no algae :D .
oswoldy said:
Ok I will just decrease the photoperiod then and will hopefully see an improvment. How long do you think it will take before I notice an improvement?
Remove all algae affected leaves, always remove any dead or dying leaves as they appear, keep on top of filter maintenance, get the ferts right, and you'll see immediately, that the algae won't come back. :D


Less work, lovely looking tank. :D

Hope this helps.

Chris
 
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Hi Mike.
oswoldy said:
Is there a better alternative to API Leaf Zone, that is more highly concentrated so cheaper as less is needed?
EI dosing (Estimative Index) is about as cheap as you can get once you get your head round it. :D
Check out this excellent tutorial by ceg4048 (also known as Clive, our resident EI guru).
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=1211 you'll probably have to read it more than once (I know I did :oops: )

What you will have to bear in mind is that EI was originally designed for maximum nutrient uptake rates using a 12 hour photoperiod and 5-6 watts per gallon. :wideyed:
As your lighting period is now less than the 12 hours and your watts per gallon are a lot less than the 5 -6 used in the original experiments, you will obviously need a lot less nutrients.
I worked mine out at 50% of the max. for my lo techs and it worked for me, I could probably cut that down too but it keeps the numbers simple so I just carried on using that. Just don't get bogged down being super duper accurate. No need with EI. As long as there is more than enough nutrients you will be OK.
Someone once calculated that using the ADA liquid ferts runs out to about £44 a litre :wideyed: which is about 96.5% water. Boy that's expensive water. I think I calculated it costs me about £3.50/£4 a litre using the dry ferts. Everyone's a winner. :D
Any more questions just holler, there are a lot more experienced people around here than me, I'm just letting you know what worked for me. ;)

Chris
 
That is indeed BBA see James Planted tank site - the site also has useful info about dosing ferts.
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm.

Reducing the photoperiod will take some of the pressure off the demand for ferts including CO2 which BBA is thought to be caused by.
When I start to get algae thats a sign for me that I need to start pruning so while you are removing affected leaves give the tank a good prune - less plants less demand for ferts. Also don't reduce feeding as this is an important source of plant nutrients (nutrients don't cause algae) and think about fewer water changes if you decide to keep to the low tech non CO2 approach as this also removes ferts.
 
Brenmuk said:
That is indeed BBA see James Planted tank site - the site also has useful info about dosing ferts.
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm.

Reducing the photoperiod will take some of the pressure off the demand for ferts including CO2 which BBA is thought to be caused by.
When I start to get algae thats a sign for me that I need to start pruning so while you are removing affected leaves give the tank a good prune - less plants less demand for ferts. Also don't reduce feeding as this is an important source of plant nutrients (nutrients don't cause algae) and think about fewer water changes if you decide to keep to the low tech non CO2 approach as this also removes ferts.

the greyish & messy appearance makes me believe it is Staghorn. BBa tends to form little neat tufts.
 
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aaronnorth said:
Brenmuk said:
That is indeed BBA see James Planted tank site - the site also has useful info about dosing ferts.
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm.

Reducing the photoperiod will take some of the pressure off the demand for ferts including CO2 which BBA is thought to be caused by.
When I start to get algae thats a sign for me that I need to start pruning so while you are removing affected leaves give the tank a good prune - less plants less demand for ferts. Also don't reduce feeding as this is an important source of plant nutrients (nutrients don't cause algae) and think about fewer water changes if you decide to keep to the low tech non CO2 approach as this also removes ferts.

the greyish & messy appearance makes me believe it is Staghorn. BBa tends to form little neat tufts.

Good observation it does look more like staghorn from the pictures.
 
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