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Thank you, Oreo! I made another lighting scheme (look attached picture). I decided to reduce the amount of light bulbs to just 30 (210 w total), they're now more concentraded at the sides to provide a more difuse lighting. Do you think 210 w of led is enough or too little?

Unfortunately will not be able neither to dim the lights nor to increase the distance from water . The light bulbs would be 7 ~ 8 cm from water surface and will remain fixed in a wood cap. So in this case it's better to use less light than more, ins't it? 210 w of led over 700 L is medium light?

I thought about floodlights but the problem is that the light would be very concentrated over some areas at the contrast of some dim areas (between the floodlights). With numerous small bulbs it's easier to get a more uniform lighting. I think I'll put 210w of led in total (17 k lumens). It...

Yes, because it's too expensive.

Here's the lighting scheme. Each black dot will be a 7w light bulb. They will be well distributed over all tank width and lenght. It seems a good idea?

The problem is this kind of led can't be dimmed. It's a common light bulb, same of the picture below. Despite this, 280 w over 700 L doens't seem to much. The lights will be 8 cm above surface level (light angle is 100º).

Hi there. I'll set up a new tank, a large one, 200 cm X 70 cm X 50 cm (height), 700 L total. What's the best lighting set up, 30 x 7w led light bulbs (210 w total, 16750 lumens) or 40 x 7w led light bulbs (280w total, 21000 lumens)? I'm quite undecided, 30 or 40 light bulbs? Please, let me know...

Hello everyone! What do you think about using pure peat as fertile substrate covered with a layer of quartz sand? Is there any problem? I know my water will turn brown due tanins but this problem I can solve changing water. Thank you.

I was thinking to drop the kh even more to 0,3 degree but at this level the ph would be stable at 5,7 with CO2 24/7. This is too acid to nitrifying bacteria survive, isn't it?

Yes, the ph swing I was experiencing before was due the CO2 injection at photoperiod (10 hour a day). The ph was swinging a whole unit (1,0 ph) in just 1 hour. So to solve this problem I set the CO2 running 24/7 to eliminate that ph swing. This way my ph swing now is just 0,1 unit a day (from...

Hi there. It's a good idea to run CO2 24 hours a day? I'm asking because I recently began to inject CO2 24/7 to eliminate ph swings in my tank. I know ph swings are harmless to fishes but I have crystal red shrimps. For sensitive shrimps like that I think ph swings of more than 1 ph unit in less...

Hi! Which ph do you consider the best for well being and breeding of crystal red shrimp? Just choose your "magic number" above because I'll keep my ph stable. Thank you.

The video above is the surface agitation of my plated tank. I think it should be strong to ensure good gas exchange.

I have soil in my tank. But it's a very old soil, more than 5 years. I think it doens't produce CO2 anymore. I have only 20-25 crystal red shrimp in a 270 L tank. So I think the water CO2 concentration is reaching the equilibrium point of 0.5 ppm in my tank. In this case I'll aim for a 1,8 ph...

My concern is that the most part of CO2 in low ph (around 6,5) becomes free and is not binded to bicarbonates anymore. Maybe CO2 is toxic in the free form in acid ph (low kh)? Who knows?

I'm using a DC. It changes its color from deep blue to green in about 2- 4 hours and keep green until the CO2 turns off. I'm planning to drop the carbonate hardness (KH) to just 1 degree because my shrimps prefer very low kh. Is there some risk to CO2 become toxic at low ph coupled with low kh...

I use a chiller to keep this cooler temperature :)

Yes, it makes sense. My tank water is 22 degrees. I have a very strong surface agitation to allow a extremely high CO2 injection rate. The ph of my tank rises to about 8 some hours after CO2 turns off (I'm using test kit to measure ph because my ph probe is fauty) . My kh is 3. During CO2...

Hi, folks! What's the correct equilibrium concentration of CO2 in water with atmosphere? I read in Diana Wastad book's (Ecology of planted aquarium) that it's about 0,5 ppm. But most people say it's 3 ppm. I'm quite confused. So, it's 0,5 or 3? Thank you.

These TDS values are expressed in ppm or uS/cm?

I don't have any fish or shrimp, only several very small snails that were introduced accidentally in my tank. I do 50 % wc every week. The environment light seems to be very weak but I can notice my rotalas curving toward the window , the source of indirect sunlight. This happens when my tank...

I already tried to keep the plants with low light intensity, the algae was growing as well and the plants was starving. So it's better keep the high light because the plants thrive this way, but it also grows a lot of algae on plants :D My goal is to adjust the photoperiod 4 hours earlier...

Hi, Ceg. My tank photoperiod 10 hours continuous (2 h low light, 6 h high light and 2 h low light again). But I noticed my rotala wallichii opens its leaves in presence of indirect sunlight (environment light), several hours before the tank lights turn on. So I assume a very small amount of...

But what's the consequences if the plants close their leaves some hours before the lights on the tank turn off? It can really triggers algae?

Alright, guys, I'll move my photoperiod 4 hours earlier. The total 10 hours is ok? It's 10 h but there is only 6 hour of high lighting as explaned above.

I didn't understand. You mean raise my tank lighting intensity?

Hi, guys! Finally I have a clue about what's is causing the algae that I'm fighting for many years in my tank. It could be a problem related to photoperiod. My tank photoperiod lasts for 10 hours (2 h of low light at beginning, 6 hours of high light at the middle and 2 h of low light...

I'll do the same :thumbup:

Alright. Could I dose all macronutrients after wc instead 3 x a week? There is any problem?

Hi guys. I intend to dose, weekly, 20 ppm of NO3, 2 ppm of PO4 and 3 ppm of Mg in my tank. So I don't know the way I'll dose this. Let me explain, what option below you think is better: Option 1: Dosing all this amount at once after each wc. (I change at least 50 % of water every saturday)...

I was researching about this and I found my problem may be Ca deficiency. I read the calcium concentration in the tank can't be below 20 ppm. My tap water TDS is only 60! I was adding, per week, 7 ppm of Mg and only 6 ppm of Ca. Now I'll dose 15 ppm of Ca and 3,75 ppm of Mg per week as PPS...

What a stunning tank! So beautiful. About my tank, my main issue is the algae. I'll reduce ferts and see what happens.

They are but there is also a lot thread algae on them. The camera did no focus the algae but they are there :D

My CO2 is fine, I turn it on 2 hours before lights on and turn it off 2 hours before lights off. My flow ins't a problem as well, about 20 times the tank volume per hour (2 canisters 700 L/h each one + 3 powerheads 1200 L/H each one). All them connected to spraybars on the back side of the tank...

I'll do this. Perhaps half of EI in a high light tank is enough to avoid any plant nutrient deficiency Do you dose the suggested quantity as on the label? If your only source of PO4 is "Tropica specialised" you're adding less than 0,5 ppm of PO4 per week in your tank. And the plants are fine...

I don't know, I think it's not. Take a look at this page I found in Tropica's website: This time it's nothing related to test kits but to a fertilizer made by Tropica. Notice that the company is warning to dose with caution. If it's dosed more than plants absorption rate is very likely the...

Hi there. Recently I was reading some stuffs about nitrates and phosphates and I found some scary informations on the manual of PO4 and NO3 kit tests. Just take a look: This information is from 2 big brands, Sera and JBL. They don't say to keep NO3 and PO4 at 0 ppm but advise us to...

Alright. OK, it's easy to remove the Ca completely, I was just taking some powder (CaSO4+1/2H2O), putting it in a cup of water and than throwing the content into the tank. My tank is high tech and I use high light. I'm sure I can keep the TDS at 200 or less If I perform a 70 % wc per week at...

Thank you for your reply. My tap water is pretty soft, about TDS 60. I dose weekly, 21,3 g of MgSO4.1/7H2O (magnesium sulfate heptahydrate), 9,8 g of KNO3, 10 g of CaSO4.1/2H2O (calcium saulfate hemihydrate) and 0,86 g of KH2PO4 in my 300 L tank. All them pre-mixed in a solution. This yields 20...

I still don't understand some things. There is any problem to perform 50% wc at once in crystal red shrimp tank? And what happens If I keep the TDS between 300 and 400? They can adapt well to this hardness level? The TDS is that high due EI regime. And one last question, based in former replies...

I'm thinking to dose some himalayan salt into my tank to raise water hardness and complement the standard EI fertilization. Himalayan salt is tottaly different of common table salt. This is compounded only by Cl and Na while that is compounded for more than 80 minerals! Of course, Na is the main...

These are green spot algae attached on the leaves that are killing the plant.

Here I dose 0,05 ppm (it's not 0,5 ppm) of Fe and 7 ppm of Mg per week. Note that the amount of iron your plants need is extremely low. Unless you aren't dosing it you won't see any iron deficiency.

My plants are suffering with this problem during years. Actually nobody knows what cause transparent leaves. You can try every thing, increase CO2 to an absurd level won't help at all. The glassy leaves will be still there even if you keep very high CO2, low light and very good flow and ferts...

5 is limnophila sessiliflora, 6 is rotala rotundifolia, 2 and 7 is ludwigia repens (rubin).

11 is rotala sp. green for sure

I have this one and I use exactly in this positon. The water will not enter in CO2 tube.

Don't worry about kh and gh. Most aquatic plants and annimals prefer lower levels.

They're fine, just beginning to produce the firsts adapted leaves. But I'm already planning now what to do in next weeks.

Alright. But I need to know if the old stems will rot. I think I'll do as described above in my first message. But I'm afraid to destabilize the tank uprooting the plants.

But what happens if I leave the old stems there? Sooner or later they'll to rot?

Hi. I've planted some stem plants in my tank like rotala wallichii, myriophyllum turbeculatum and rotala macrandra. All them in emerged form. Now the plants are developing leaves adapted to aquatic enviroment. So should I prune the modified part (submerged) and uproot the previous emerged stem...

This is so wierd! I'm quite curious to know why Nice experience! Maybe the plants from first tank aren't adapted to reiceve too much light to respective CO2 level?

I have some glossostigmas and they are growing glassy and upwards. They are growing so I think they are above LCP. I thought could be insuficient light because I'm running with only 2 x 30 w T8 tubes (with reflectors) over a 200 cm x 40 cm 45 cm (height) tank. Check out the videos below: And...

Hi, guys! Do you know what the light compensation point (in µmol / mˉ² sˉ¹) of pogostemon helferi and glossostigma elatinoides? Or just post the LCP of others plants you know. Thank you.

What are the concerns to keep a weak surface agitation and get surface scum? My water surface is covered by a film that makes the water agitation even weaker. So I think the gas exchanges is severely affected. I'm injecting a massive CO2 amount in my tank because I haven't fauna yet. So my 6 dkh...

I can't use only 1 tube or 3 (odd numbers) because I have 3 lines of T8 tubes, each one with 2 light tubes. So I think it's better to only turn on the central line during 8 hours a day.

My tank is also running with low light and high CO2 from now. I'll see if it works. It's a good idea? Or 2 x 30w T8 tubes turned on during 8 hours a day is too little light to my tank?

I'm using a ph probe. And the drop checker I dissolved some baking soda in a sample of water to do a 4 dkh water. After that I've tested the hardness with 2 different brands test kits. One told me that water had 5 dkh and the other told 6,5 dkh. So I think I have at least 5 dkh at drop checker...

Guys, I decided right now to use only 2 lights tubes from now. The algae is growing in whole tank and on plants leaves! My anubias is being choked by 3 kinds of algae. Its a good idea to run with low light and high CO2, isn't it?

So, my lighting is good? It's not excessive? I'm dosing a massive CO2 amount to compensate this light and nutrient levels. I also have algae, so I need to pay attention to CO2.

It's because I've read some plants appreciate larger nutrient quantities than EI provides. I'm dosing 60 ppm KNO3, 10 ppm PO4 and 10 ppm Mg per week + normal EI micronutrients dosage 3 times a week.

But I have 3 lines of T8 over the water surface and each light tube has a good reflector. My photoperiod is 8 hours a day but I begin the 2 first hours with only 2 light tubes turned on (the central line). I think I have high light, or not?

Hi, Ryan! I'm also glad you're here to help :). I did a search about problems with glossos and glassy leaves in whole forum so I found your thread ;). So your problem wasn't excessive flow? Only a CO2 issue? My tank size is 200 cm x 40 cm x 45 cm (hight) and about 300 L of water. I'm using 6 x...

My plants are pearling very well (like before or even better). I have installed the inline device yesterday, so I'll wait a few more days to see if my glossos will be still transparent. My drop checker is lime color during all day and becomes yellow at beginning of photoperiod and remains this...

I have installed my inline system. I'm injecting CO2 directly in spray bars using 3 CO2 hoses in 3 different spots. Each CO2 hose has a porous stone to produce small CO2 bubbles. Take a look at this scheme and you'll understand better: The sprays bars cover all tank length now, so I have tiny...

Alright, I'll try it. I'll inform you about the results as soon as possible. Thank you, mate.

Hi, jose! Thank you for your reply. Yes, I've read the linked article. I found it interesting but I haven't sure if CO2 bubbles and microbubbles will do any difference now because I already tried this method last year without success. The bubbles enter in my reactor with a large size and outs...

Guys, I've increased my CO2 a lot. Watch this video in full HD to see the bubble rate in each reactor: Do you think it is good enough? My plants is still glassy. So I need to wait some weeks to see any improvements? At the side of each CO2 reactor there is a pump that sucks the water and...

I was thinking to plant myriophyllums behind the anubias and let they grow on the water surface (with submersed leaves) to shade them. I have also some bolbitis heldelotii between the 2 larger stones. This plant becomes big enough to their leaves reach the water surface and shade the anubias as...

You're got it, I don't have fishes or shrimps ;). Ok, I'll inject more CO2 and see what happens. I can't lowering my lighting because my heaminthus micranthemoides begins to produce glassy leaves (I've solved this problem increasing lighting). My flow is good? It's not excessively strong, right?

I have tried this before but with the same bad results so I came back to reactors. I have very intense pearling using my reactors. I think they're better than inline devices.

aHi! I've read here help! with glossotigma that excessive flow can cause CO2 uptake problem. So, I think my glossostigmas are suffering from the same issue! Maybe I have too much flow and they aren't catching enough CO2 and presenting CO2 deficiency problems like glassy leaves. But I haven't...

Guys, here's a picture to show you the echinodorus tenellus size: And here are my algae infastation (it's not too much): My main concern is when I uproot the plant because it'll release ammonia to water column. And I'll have a algae outbreak. I'm right?

Now I got it. Thank you!

I still have doubts. I don't got how to create the link. I need to insert a code?

Actually I want to replace it to another plant. Echinodorus tenellus grows in layers and too fast invading the other plants. I was thinking to replace it by posgostemon helferi. But if I uproot the echinodorus I'll cause more algae?

Hello, mates! I'm with a trouble in my tank. My echinodorus tenellus amano is growing like crazy and dominating the tank. Currently it represents about 30 % of plant mass of my tank. So I'm thinking to uproot it and throw away. But my tank has some algae because I've increased my lighting last...

Hi, guys! My tank has plenty soft water, less than 1 dkh. So I inject a great quantity of CO2 in my tank (more than 50 ppm for sure) because I haven't animals yet, only plants. The problem (or not) is my ph that reaches the mark of 4,95 - 4,9 when CO2 turns off. This ph is ok? It can prejudice...

Do you think 60 ppm KNO3, 8 ppm PO4, 10 ppm Mg and 30 ppm Ca once a week can provide the maximum daily uptake? Or I need more to reach the daily uptake limit by plants?

Excelent explanation, mate! Thank you.

So I think there will be no problems because I'll dose 2x the weekly EI macronutrients dosage at once. Sixty ppm KNO3, 8 ppm PO4, 10 ppm Mg and 30 ppm Ca is a lot, isn't it?

I think it's medium/high. I have 3 lines of T8 (6 x 30 w) over my tank (200 cm x 40 cm x 45 cm) and each bulb have a good reflector. This weekly dosing schedule works better with high light?

It's more easy to dose all at once because I usually forget to dose some days during the week. I'll dose after after wc the following amount of macros, 60 ppm KNO3, 8 ppm PO4, 10 ppm Mg and 30 ppm Ca.

I'm thinking to dose all macronutrients weekly dosage at once (after water change). But I'll keep dosing micros in alternated days (because the most part of them are chalated). It's a good idea?

Do you dose the powder directly in the tank or dissolve it in a solution to store and use during the month?

Hi, Jose. What's your iron and macronutrients weekly dosage in ppm?

Alright. But I think my solution is good because there isn't any precipitate at the bottom. I use tap water because it's very soft (63 TDS) so it isn't so different than RO water. I had no idea about the solution ph. The iron EDTA tends to low the ph?

Hi, Ardjuna. I did my iron EDTA iron solution with tap water (very soft, less than 1 dkh). Do you know if the chelate will degrade before I use all solution content ? It lasts for about 20 days. Thank you.

But what happens if I don't trim them? They'll die?

Hi, guys! Do you know if it's necessary to trim carpeting plants? My echinodorus tenellus and eleocharis parvula are becoming ever more dense. Take a look at this pictures:[IMG]http:// I like them this way. But they're growing fast and becoming very compact. Can I keep this way or I'll have...

Hi, MedicMan. I'm not getting acess to this calculator. It is updated? Thank you.

Hi, people! I have set some emersed plants in my tank and now they're developing submerged leaves. Should I uproot the plant and cut off the emersed part and put it away? I was thinking to replant only the submerged stem that grew. Or there is no problem to keep the emersed stem underwater? Any...

I Always keep the CO2 flowing when the ph computer is turn on. I use it basicaly only to measure the ph.

I have a JBL ph computer. But I link it to a timer and keep the CO2 running during 8 hour a day.

It seems some kind of algae. You have a good water flow on this plant? I think your problem is little CO2 or nutrients to you current light level. Try to increase CO2 or dose more as well lowering the light. Your plants will tell you if you're the right way.

It's related to micronutrients. These are very toxic depending the quantity. I didn't remember properly but something about 0,3 ppm of copper could kill every kind of shrimp easily.

But nitrates aren't toxic for fishes even in a very high level (300 ppm +)

Could we dose all week EI dosing at once? For example, each saturday I intend to dose for all week something like 50 ppm of KNO3, 6 ppm of PO4, 10 ppm of Mg, 10 ppm of Ca + micros nutrients. There is any concern about this? If yes, why? Thank you.