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Thanks. I have searched but all the threads I read were inconclusive.

Does anyone happen to know what the UK equivalent is for DRYLOK® Latex Masonry Waterproofer, seemingly available only in the US. It's a sealer used to coat the fake rock backgrounds and similar in aquariums, vivariums and paludariums. 4:49+

Thanks all. I’m thinking more for spraying aquarium decor; backgrounds and such. What’s the best, durable paint to use from a rattle can?

Too small and it’ll shift.

As title, are they (and the primers) safe for use in aquariums? Acrylic based so I'm guessing they are?

They'll take a few over time perhaps but newts aren't all that adept at catching nippy prey like shrimp.

Went to B&Q and have binned the brick idea - way too heavy. I'll probably just try to source lava rock in bulk. Any suggestions?

Thanks for your input. I've updated the first post. Having mulled this over some more, I realise that a tear-down is of course the 'proper' way to do it but I have a sizeable, established Cherry and Amano population and I have nowhere to re-house them temporarily. I do enjoy an engineering...

I've been running this non CO2 tank for 18 months or so (maybe more, maybe less). It's been moderately successful (no major plant health issues) but I'm kinda bored with it. What I'd like to do is convert it to a paludarium for a few Marbled Newts and keeping some suitable fish alongside. My...

A fair few Ramshorns but not overpopulated. I'm currently giving the following a try for a month: Lowering my EI dosing by 50%. Lowering Liquid Carb by 50%. Lowering flow somewhat. Reducing lighting by 5% and 1/2 hr per day.

Go external.

Sorry to revive an old, old thread but my BBA only grows in the high flow areas of the tank. Nowhere else.

I've noticed this, too. Might be an effort by the Admins to save on bandwidth - but it's self-defeating. Let the bots do their thing!

Definitely planaria - not just detritus thingies?

Before: After: Good riddance to algae magnets (Seiryu Stone). The end.

Does anyone run one of these without CO2?

I've been very pleased with the performance of my Chihiros LEDs.

Interesting stuff. I think I’ll go topless for a while ;) see what happens.

As a cover for my Roma tank, I use panels of walled polycarbonate which have a UV coating on one side. The LED strip is above it. I know these sheets reduce the intensity of light somewhat (and I compensate for that) - but is it likely to affect the 'quality' of light i.e. the spectrum? Does...

Thanks, I just don't see how it can *not* attach... eventually at least.

Solution found! I just slipped a short length of tube over the outlet pipe (just visble in photo) and the sponge pre-filter fits and works like a charm. No more messing around with a filter assembly; simply slip off - rinse - slip on. :thumbup:

I'd be quite happy with a pre-filter sponge which fits directly on the tube but I can't seem to find any with <12mm holes...

Top one's okay but it looks a bit ropey at the attachment point.

I already do but it’s a pain to remove the filter inlet then take the sponge off, rinse, refit the sponge then refit the inlet. I’d rather just slip one of these off the pipe, rinse then slip it back on. That silver though. Eww. .

Anyone know if these are available in some kind of black mesh and fittings? Also; do they just slide over the 12/16mm tubing? How often do they clog up?

Good plan! :thumbup:

Not sure. I ran a tank for two years without any liquid CO2. All plants very healthy - and no algae. I dose my main tank with liquid CO2 and have always had issues with plant health/growth and still have algae problems. Hence why I'm going to discontinue it. Just my observation.

I'm about to reduce Liquid Carbon in all my tanks to ZERO. It's a con.

I thought this was an easy starter for 10. :confused: Anyone?...

I've created a redmoor/spiderwwod 'thing' as I'll be rescaping my 240l tank soon. In doing so I've created a cavern-like void inside which has me concerned over fish getting trapped and even more so: detritus build-up. Should I fill this? If so, how and with what?

Email sent. Thanks.

I probably would but the 120x40cm footprint is set in stone. I wasn't aware EA did custom sizes, thanks. I've emailed NACD but no reply so far which doesn't bode well.

Day 44 and pretty much the end of this journal I guess. Everything's gone really well - no signs of diatoms and biologically all in balance it seems. Happy shrimp, happy shrimp keeper. Thanks for everyone's help and advice. :thumbup: Now to get my main tank up to the same standard of scape! ;)

I've decided I'm done with my Fluval Roma 240 due to its height. It's awkward to work on, hard to light effectively due to its depth and I'm tired of the aesthetic if I'm honest. Now looking for an opti-white rimless with a 120cm x 40cm footprint - and max 40cm high. I know that ADA, TMC...

Good point, sir. I'll fix that in due course. :thumbup: In the meantime I'll remove it from its clips and up-end it a couple times at least weekly.

I'm beginning to detest my Fluval Roma. They're simply too tall. Light issues aside, tall tanks are harder to scape / build height, IMO. Any manufacturer suggestions for a shallower (< 55cm) tank with a 120cm x 40cm footprint? .

Why does Weeping moss not attach? Surely it does in the wild?

Thank you for the offer but an Aqua Medic is on the way. I appreciate it.

Thanks. I’ll bear it in mind. I guess one failsafe is better than none. :thumbup:

Cheers. Really would prefer a simple plug n play option. I take it as there are no howls of derision the Aqua Medic one is fine?

Thanks so far. I didn't really want to go down this path but I gather that it's far safer to regulate the heater with a controller anyway. I've been looking at the Aqua Medic ones as although it's pricey, it's pretty much plug and play (I don't want to go through the ball-ache of building a...

I appear to be having issues with my DIY inline heater in that the temperature seems way out. My tank is at 25c yet the heater is at 20c. I'm assuming that as the thermostat is placed near the neck of the inline unit it's being affected by not being in the 'main flow'. See photo (inlet is...

Pretty pleased with this DIY inline external heater, too! :D Having kittens though - are all the air pockets out? :nailbiting: Will the heater blow when I turn it on? :eek: :D Only ONE way to find out! ...

Fungus. Just been through this myself. My advice: siphon it off - do not scrub; it'll only get worse. Should disappear in a couple of weeks all by itself. :)

Day 34: • Reduced turbulence a little by adding a JBL WideSet to the end of the spray bar. Flow is spot on, now. • Slime almost gone. • Shrimp are in (although all but two are conveniently hiding in this shot). • Just about to rig up the external heater - so I can get that ugly thing out! •...

Watch and follow Mark's Shrimp Tanks: :thumbup:

Wow. I can tell that you’ll never be unemployed! :D Good stuff, thanks. I have already needed to stem the flow a little in the current setup so that’ll give me some leeway. I’ll report back with my findings - although they’ll be subjective rather than objective! ;)

I wasn’t aware of those, thanks, but not really what I meant. Instead of a typical arched 'crook' which is inherently unstable - requiring suckers etc - I was thinking of a system that has either a tighter loop - or if that affects flow, somehow moulded longitudinally with the glass, looping...

Well, you lost me at 'maffs'! :D My heater diameter is 25mm and the tube I've bought is 40mm. Is that okay? Mine will have a 90deg elbow IN, T connector OUT. I see your logic but it's a bit late to change now. I guess it'll work though?

I'm about to construct an inline heater enclosure to run it externally (from a canister filter). Assuming restriction is no greater anywhere than that of my 12/16 tubing, will this addition decrease pressure/flow to the spray bar? I don't see how it can but would like your wisdom and experience...

Free if you live within walking distance! :p Wish I could be there. Enjoy. :cool:

Ah. I see. I guess nature will have to take its course on this occasion. Cheers.

Is there a neat solution for spray bar and inlet connections? I can't stand the shepherd's crook style on an open tank. They're fiddly and annoying to get and keep stable. Then they just look a mess. Isn't there a system that just clips on to the glass lip itself instead of the big...

I hope Cherry shrimp like flow. They've now got it in spades! Wondering if it's too much?...

Nettles are apparently good.

Not without a struggle! Would likely impact flow etc too no doubt. I'll have a think tomorrow.

Day 28: • Eheim Experience 150 has arrived. Now sorting cabinet space below. • Eheim 75w Heater arrived. • Awaiting shrimp-safe intake sponge. • Have ordered parts for external inline heater from plasticpipeshop.co.uk plus a Uniseal from eBay - I think I've ordered the right bits. :nailbiting...

I have an Ember Tetra in my 240l community tank who is pregnant and is frantically fighting-off other inhabitants (even Pearl Gouramis!) in order to protect her 'birthing space'. She's clearly stressed and I'd rather like to raise a batch of fry if at all possible. What would you recommend I...

Received a 75w version today. Diameter (measured with digital calipers) are: Tube: 25mm / 1" Neck: 30mm / 1.25" Just shows that you can't trust manufacturers specs! .

Did you get around to building one? I'm struggling to find the reducing parts - mainly because I don't know exactly what to search for.

Great, thank you very much. :)

£85

How? :eek:

I don't have it yet - and I'm after the diameter. :)

Appreciate it. I can't see the tube itself being the quoted 36mm. Perhaps that's the neck size?

Just bought an Eheim so a bit late! I note the minimum l/ph on those is 900l/ph anyway so it'd be too much for a 55l. Tad pricey, too.

Tried to obtain parts for an inline heater today. The look I got from "specialist" plumbing retailers was... Yeah, nah.

Fluval Roma 240 Fresh & Plant 2.0 LED Always a work in progress!

I need to know the diameter of the 'neck' of the Eheim Thermocontrol heater. Would someone be kind enough to give me an accurate measurement? Pic below: Come to think of it: Eheim's site says the glass tube diameter is 36mm - that's nearly 1/12". Is that right? :confused: Should be more like...

Any reliable alternatives to Hydor? The only 12/16mm one they do is a 200w.

Cheers. I'll defo try that first. Just a thought. I've LOVE to get that heater out of the tank. Has anyone ever sat a canister filter in a sump (obviously below the line of the motor housing) and heated the water that way? I'm no engineer but I'm thinking that there would be too much of a...

Thanks again all. I'm perhaps guilty of overprotecting my Cherry shrimp when in fact they're probably much hardier than I realise. This stems from my experience of losing ten (of a dozen) within a month of getting them last year with no apparent cause. Fortunately I was left with a breeding...

Any suggestions on whether I should opt for a spray bar (back to front or left to right) OR Duckbill outlet (left to right)? .

Thanks all. I have a golden ivy at the ready but I'm not that enamoured about hanging it on the tank to be fair. I also have Frogbit which does well in my main tank but, again, wasn't planning to add them. Which is kinda why I just wanted to run the tap through the nitrate filter and store it...

'Dwarf' Sagittaria - which turns out to be not so dwarf when it chooses! I soaked mine for a day or two, DS for a few days then decided to flood. A slight 'lift' was easily sorted with a couple of stones on the top. Cheers. :)

Day 25: Amanos have done a sterling job cleaning much of the mould and slime off the wood. Monte Carlo doing well (no sign of any melt), Flame moss 'sprouting', S. Repens slow but sure so far. The H tripartita's looking great too.

Thanks. Would this be considered 'plenty'? (55l scapers tank)

I’ve always used pure RO (then added minerals) for water changes on my Cherry shrimp tank but I now want to avoid the hassle of buying the stuff (and the expense/waste of making my own). However, my tap water comes out at 40ppm nitrates so that’s a concern. I have one of those Pozanni nitrate...

Update: • Ordered an Eheim Experience 150 (500lph). Turnover from the AquaCompact (350lph) good - flow not so good. • Transferred some Amano shrimp from the main tank. Doing sterling work on that white slime! :thumbup: • Debating on whether to use spray bar, duckbill or lily pipe outlet?... .

Understood but surely my shrimp will better withstand the acclimatisation if the TDS is similar in each tank? I wouldn't like to put them from 200 into 350+. Isn't it just something else that can go wrong? I suppose I could just start water changes in the existing shrimp tank with tap...

You can always seal them. Like wot I did. :)

Thanks. I get what you’re saying but I’m effectively cutting the RO with the existing tap water, right? Once I get TDS to 250 I’ll begin remineralising the RO. Re:TDS is it not good practice to match it to what they’re already used to?

Measuring TDS daily now. Aim is 200-250 as that's what my shrimp are used to. Currently 340 and dropping slowly. If I were to do water changes with (pure) RO from now on, will I minimise the chance of diatoms? Or is that not how it works? :)

Thanks for your kind words. It's encouraging. :) I think I'll grab some H pinnatifida. Still a bit slimy here and there but the fog is lifting, Nitrites are dropping and things are growing in. I sense victory.

Liquid only on this one. I hadn't but thanks for the suggestion.

Anyone?

Any value in using these when not injecting CO2?

Yes. Very yes! :thumbup: I shall do just that. Thanks again all.

This is the new setup - https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/pbms-dennerle-scapers-55.52867/ I seeded the tank well, used existing plants from other tanks and am using the fully established canister filter from an old one. It's taking a lot longer than expected.

In order: Francesca, Lydia, Steve and what looks like a bunch of Martins.

So many conflicting 'arguments' on the net - and nothing conclusive - so I'll ask here (my trusted source): Is it necessary or advisable to do water changes in a fully planted tank while cycling?

Inert, fine quartz gravel - all my tanks are. :)

Thing is; if I turn down my lighting intensity, things are gonna get dark in there real quick. I have masses of Phoenix moss in there which is Excel sensitive so maybe upping that isn’t an option. Maybe the expense (and faff) of injection is on the cards...

That's about it for set up... pretty much what I envisioned with perhaps a few more Crypts along the back. Doubtless I'll add a couple more Bucephalandra too. A disorderly mess at the moment but things should hopefully grown in nicely. Still surprised that Monte Carlo's doing well. Wish it...

Yes, new growth seems fine - and they are growing. All good. I hope not!

My bottle mix is 'as per instructions' - less phosphates which I've increased from 1 tsp to 4 tsp. I've just revisited the APFUK instruction card and they recommend 10ml per 50l (with, I'm assuming, CO2 injection). So, for approx 200l of water my 25ml dose would be just over 1/2 which I...

It’s a fair suggestion but I’ve been dosing roughly half as it’s liquid carbon, not gas. No problem increasing it; it’s cheap enough. I’m thinking it might need root tabs?

Not in my experience! ;) Anyhoo - I ripped the wood out and started again, scraping off the offending CA. I then set about tying it on. That process is easy enough but how do you tie-off the knot when you’re finished winding? Please don’t say ‘a dab of superglue’! Damn thing’ still cycling...

See what I did, there? :D I’ve grown P.H. successfully for some time now in my ‘medium tech’ but now that a ‘bed’ of them has established things are starting to go horribly wrong. Both upper and lower leaves are melting on different plants and they’re looking ragged. Tank: 240l Sub: Quartz...

Just added the new plants and mosses. Honestly - those who superglue moss with any degree of panache stand among Gods. No more pics for a while. Embarrassing...