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So thick (not me, the plants) I doubt I'd be able see any buds! I reckon I'll play safe and do about 3 goes and start over.

If I cut my Rotala down to a couple of inches from the substrate it takes less than 3 weeks to get to the surface. How many times can I hack it down before replanting the tops? For ever?

Thanks. I suspected even if you could 'mow' the mess may not be worth the hassle.

I usually pull my Blyxa up, break it up and replant. But is it possible just to give it a bit a mow and cut it down a bit?

I'm sure you are right. I would expect they are a pretty standard piece of kit. I get wildly differing results depending on wether I use strips, liquid tests etc. I rarely check and this was the first test I had done since last April.

I have ordered new cartridges as it appears its been a while! However, I did see something in Google results, although the page it linked to didn't appear to be there, from JBL that suggested 'damp' could affect the chlorine reading.

Not that I can see. I suspect that although you pay extra for the Proscan strips, that they are identical to the bog standard strips.

To be honest, I only used Prime after the test showed chlorine. It also shows chlorine in my RO (home made), which also has an airstone running in it for a day before using (just as a stirrer for Equilibrium). I suspect the readings are false.

I tried it direct on crypts and java fern with no apparent issue.

My JBL test strips are measuring an amount of chlorine. This seems unlikely, I use RO water (remineralised with equalibrium) and have dosed with Seachem Prime- are these strips really measuring Chlorine or are they not reliable?

FX4

I have set my FX6 up using the coarse and medium sponges in the outer rings as per Pondguru advice. These sponges do get quite compressed to squeeze into position. I have noticed that some larger waste, bits of leaves etc, end up on top of the floss on top of the central section. Is it possible...

The instructions do say you can dose the entire tank. It just says not effective as spot dosing, which clearly would be tricky on some algae. I've never had a major issue with the other types of algae.

BBA is not hair algae, it grows in tufts. I use a syringe to target the tufts. On hardware I just syringe it all over as the tufts tend to form a carpet. It seems to have been more successful than my usual Excel/peroxide treatment.

Not obviously, however I had previously dumped my mosses. My Vallis was a bit ropey to start with as it was a few rescued bits. But it doesn't look any worse than before I started the APT. Hygrophila, crypts, blyxa, rotala and Java Fern all look fine. Excel always causes Vallis to melt for me...

Well I have to say the effect on BBA has been quite spectacular. I only had a few tufts on plants as I chucked all the badly affected. But my heater was covered in it. 4 or 5 days of spot treatment, and after a week it's gone. Just a few bits of dead and dieing remaining.

Thanks. I haven't a full outbreak as such. I neglected my tank for a couple of months, and now it's been tidied up wanted to hit the residual BBA on heaters etc.

Has anyone else tried APT fix? I'm going to give it a try and see if it kills BBA on some of my fixtures, heated etc.

Very! I've done the Pondguru Pimp, the biological media wasn't too bad, I've never left a filter so long, and I won't again!

Probably something in that, I used to religiously clean my filter every month. It's an FX4 on a 200L, so flow was never affected, but it had been neglected and it had its first clean for what must be 5 months at least at the weekend!

Thanks for the help, I'll up the ferts for a while and see what happens.

Looking at the Blyxa again, it looks pretty- just hints of BBA about.

The plants generally look good, although not so much now as CO2 regulator played up. (new one installed). Also I recently had a bit of a large cut back- my crypt parva was growing a bit wild, so taken it down to ground level- it always comes back. Blyxa may look a bit pale, but growing well...

I dose EI as per instructions from Aquariumplantfood, I use moderate Co2. I use remineralized RO, at 50% water changes per week. I consistently measure Zero Nitrate (JBL PRO Liquid tests). This doesn't sound right. Should be upping my ferts? I do have a bit of a BBA outbreak, but I was without...

I have had fish delivered from Tropco and also bought direct from there physical location. very impressed. Their warehouse is quite impressive. I have also visited one of the other well known places mentioned on here- and was not in the same league. Alan

Tempted to give it a go. My Vallis is now more than reaching the surface which will break the flow. I have Rotala in front of the outlets which must disperse flow.

I have a standard FX4 outflow- but I do have Vallis and Rotala and pogestomon erectus hat grows to the top. Usually have a small clump of hornwort floating as well. I need to think about it.

Tubifex or Copepods- mu Dwarf Rasbora have new issue.

It would be 24/7. Not much I can do about that. In a smaller tank opportunity to get out of flow at the surface is limited. My Tetras have no issue.

I have a 200l with an FX4, so flow and surface movement is high. Has anyone experience of Hatchet fish in high flow. I suspect it's a no no. Alan

So last weekend I tried my solution which seems to work. Friday evening, Bring 120 litre barrel into through room at opposite end to tank. Fill with RO through slightly open window. Remineralize with tap and bring to temp. On Saturday I drain water from tank via the extra outlet on FX4. Run...

I bought 2 of the 120L- more than I need- but can have one in garage full in case of emergencies- like I end up in pub.

It turns out a booster pump doesn't help much! save 40 seconds a litre- whoopee doo! They look ideal! It would only have to be in my living room Friday night, just refill Fridays before water change.

I need to pick up a nice big storage container somewhere- they seem to cost a fortune new!

I have a tap adapter on order so hopefully can do it indoors. Unfortunately now have a combi boiler so no storage upstairs, bu got me thinking about installing the RO unit next to boiler!

I'm assuming the booster purely boosts pressure and not temperature?

I make my RO in the garden at present from a garden tap. I 'make' around a 100L. Storing upstairs won't get past Mrs C. It take around 3-4 hours I guess. A large container at height is something I've been thinking about but space again is an issue.

I think I'm going to try pumping with RO straight in. The issue is I have a 2 hour window on Saturdays to get the job done, so if the booster pump does the job it will save a lot of lifting! I use about 30% tap so can use that to adjust temp if it goes to out of kilter.

My house is too small and full of family junk, I have bought and tried a trolley,a bit of an assault course!

Your first point would be my plan B. I.e fill containers adjacent to tank to save carrying. Issue would be the time it takes to refill. However I have a booster pump on order. Your point 2 is what I was doing before I started using RO.

It would take at least that. If I'm cutting with tap could use that to balance temp.

I have recently shifted over to using RO cut with tap water. I fill 25l containers and pump in tank using the inlet on my FX4. I have a bad back and carrying the 25l containers is crippling me. I have seen the chap in Green Aqua using a booster pump to feed the RO straight into tank. But if I'm...

I have an RO unit and in my main 200l tank I cut 50/50 with tap water and all is good. I recently bought a 57l flex which is planted but currently has no fish. My tap water has a TDS of around 350. I thought I may keep Chilli Rasbora. Just for the hell of I thought I'd try using Seachem...

I have a 200l aquarium and use the FX4. Thought it may have been a bit fierce, but no issues. I have replaced media with that from Pond Guru All seems good.

I do a 50% water change (~100L) weekly and also fill straight from hose- so haven't quite figured out how I'm going to get my 50L of RO in without hurting my back!

I have London tap water, and bought an RO unit last week on a whim, and I can never resist a gizmo. However, although I have only just started reducing my TDS (tank was reading 450, now about 350) since the weekend. It may be my imagination, but my Cardinal Tetras seem to have coloured up...

I'm using a diffuser I bought from aquarium gardens, it's plastic and much smaller than glass ones I have used. The output of bubbles seems very good and more even than glass ones I have bought. The best thing is I haven't broken it yet!

I have now reduced the ramp up times. I think I'll up the Co2- I have changed the background to a frosted background so the bubbles are less obvious. It is frustrating as 2 weeks ago it was going so well! I don't think co2 distribution is an issue as the FX4 pretty much blasts the bubbles...

Not the best of pics, but you can see the Rotala on the right is looking covered with diatoms. CO2 is moderate, so darker rather than light green, the bubbles were driving me nuts,I've also had a couple of CO2 wipeouts in the past so being careful. Filter is a Fluval FX4, so circulation is...

Would the diatoms inhibit growth?

My 200L tank has been set up for 2 months. Plants were growing very well, most from tissue culture. Plants include dwarf hairgrass, Rotala wallachi, pogestemon erectus. Once they took off they were growing like triffids, pruning more than once a week. After about 6 weeks diatoms started, and...

I did previously use an in line diffuser. However I had a CO2 accident and prefer to physically see what's happening. I now have a FX4 which uses odd sized pipes. Are there any reactors that are recommended?

Would a lack of iron have any effect? I've just bought a test kit and measuring pretty much 0 iron?

I have a black aquarium background, but it seems to highlight the co2 bubbles and they look a tad unsightly. I'm not keen on no background- I'll see my wallpaper! Would a lighter background make the co2 bubble less visible and what colour looks ok-white? blue?

I'm having much the same issue with the 'mini variety. Grown for tissue culture, grew fantastic for first 6 weeks, now beginning to look less than great. Nowhere near as red, and leaves beginning to break up.. Moderate pressurized co2, fluval 3 light. EI dosing and 50% water changes. Most other...

I bought some at the weekend at maidenhead Aquatics and paid £17 for 6. The chap did tell me he wouldn't have any more for a while as they are seasonal- perhaps its wrong time of year?

I've just bought a bigger one for my 200L- Pleased with it, it gives a 'nicer' light than my chihros lights.. As mentioned before the App is a bit limited- but more than adequate. How many things can a light app do? (I'll answer my own question- it has a night phase which you can set just a low...

I had an issue with my CO2 regulator/solenoid. Karol made great efforts to resolve via e-mail, unfortunately it needed to be sent back. It was collected Tuesday afternoon, fault investigated and fixed Wednesday morning and on its way back for Thursday delivery. The fault was almost certainly...

I saw someone using something similar in a fish house. But he was filling from a large cylinder. It's the cost of the CO2 that would make this crippling.i would think this would be significantly more expensive than any other option after a very short while.

The Corys are doing fine. Bought some tissue culture plants including Rotaal. Noticeably grown since they were delivered earlier in the week. My concern is when to start restocking with fish- and I think some patience is required!

Not user error in this instance. I rarely check parameters as they are always fine, but as this is a new set up I used My JBL Pro Test that measures a number of items, including GH/KH. I don't usually give 2 hoots about hardness- as you say I just use tap water and it is what it is. Its not the...

I have started again on my 200 L tank. I have a new filter (FX4) but retained by old biological media. I am using new tropica soil. I have done 2 * 50% water changes in the last week since it was set up.. It currently only has 6 small corydora on-(refugees from last set up) I am on London Tap...

Tank is 45cm deep.

I have a 200L 100CM tank- would 1 be enough? As I say I was a bit disappointed with the 'spread' of light on the Chihiros and the light is very 'white'. I'm redoing my tank with a view to keeping Dwarf Rainbowfish and was thinking the this may give off a 'nicer' light. I have planted some Rotala...

Has anyone used the Fluval 3.0? I like a gizmo! Is it any good? Is one enough for a tank? I have the Chihiros A series at present and had to buy 2 as the spread was not great. Alan

I've been using their soil. Pleased with it, hasn't broken down in 3 years.

Only a few mins from summer hill. The sat nav doesn't get it quite right. Its on the westward bound side of the carriage way. It's a reasonable sized place with a big sign! I have been up and down the road a few times! No idea if they are open weekends.

Obviously leeks would be very serious. Leaks equally so!

Danielm I see your location as London/Essex. Thameside in Basildon refill a 2 kgFE for a fiver. Look them up on the web. I just go round the back and they are refilled in 5 mins. All properly checked for leeks etc.

If you can get to Basildon, Thameside just filled 2 X 2.5 kg FE for a fiver each for me.

Filters all been cleaned, all fish feeding fine, even the hatchet looked OK last night. 50% water change as well at the weekend, so lets see what happens....

I was thinking along the lines of the disturbed substrate, water was black for a good few hours. Having said that, that was 2 weeks ago. Unfortunately I have no quarantine facility. Alan

My 200L tank has always been well maintained. EI ferts, CO2, and weekly 50% water changes. That is until about 4 months ago, I lost 50% of my fish due to overdosing CO2, and it has been subsequently neglected for 4 months due to family illness. 2 weeks ago I got the tank into good order. I...

Staurogyne growing ok after slow start, just waiting for it to become a bit more established before printing. But it is attracting BBA. Helianthus Cuba disappeared without trace in a week. Trying Lilaeopsis now. Using liquid Carbon, CO 2, and hydrogen peroxide, with little affect.

I've added the extra light, a month later I still have rampant BBA. At a loss at what to do next! More/Less Light? More/Less ferts? More/Less water Changes?

I have gone for the option of another Chihiros 901, with both on a lower power. One immediate advantage is the tank looks better. One lighting unit in a hooded tank essentially meant all the fish were in shadow when viewed from the front. It's been in since the weekend so will see how things go...

Flow should be OK- have a decent external supplemented with a Hydor circulation pump.

I have been using liquid Carbon from TNC, and spraying with Hydrogen Peroxide, it's stubborn stuff!

One was new, one was 2 years old and the rest were older I think. That's what prompted me to go for the LED, the tubes were getting on.

What doesn't, the BBA or parameters?

My parameters today are (according to JBL proscan strips) are:- Nitrate 18 Nitrite 0 GH 14 D KH 15 D PH 7.0 CO2 35 ppm (a bit higher than usual- just changed bottle so may need adjusting)

About 50 cm. Hooded tank so lights immediately above water through cover glass. Alan

I have never been able to grow carpeting plants. Using JBL aquasoil, FE CO2. EI using Aquarium Plant Food as per instructions. I must be doing something wrong! Alan

I have a 200L 100cm aquarium. I previously used 4 x 39W T5 lights , 2 on for 8 hrs and all 4 on for the middle 5 hrs. I recently changed to the Chihiros A901 running for 8 hrs. I have been running on full power and my BBA has got out of hand- the LEDS do not look brighter than the T5s, hence me...

I have just replaced my T5s with the Chihiros A901. I was running 2 tubes for 8 hours and 4 for about 5 hours. My aquarium is 200L 99.5cm x 40cm x 50cm, CO2 and JBL Aquasoil. I try and keep PH around 7. Hardness is London Tap Water! I have never had any joy with carpeting plants, so though I...

I have just had 2 FE refilled at Thameside Fire in Basildon. £10 for a 2KG. 01268 597999, Unit 4 Sovereign Park, Cranes Farm Road, Basildon, SS143JD. Good service, while you wait and all properly checked for leaks etc. Told me mine were lose and tightened them up.

Looks good, went with the Chihiros in the end.

Coincidentally I have ordered new lights yesterday- the Chihiros A series which runs at about 8000K. I rarely replace my carbon, but baulked at the replacement at the LFS at £12 a pop. It does make the water clear, and my thinking was along the lines of if I could get it cheap I would continue...

As per header. I am using carbon in my filter, but it's way too expensive in small quantities. Does anyone have any recommendations? There are loads at varying prices on eBay, so not sure what to go for or avoid. Alan

I have a 200L tank, 100CM long , 50CM deep. It is hooded. I am currently using 4 * 39W T5 tubes. Two of them on for 8 hours and the other 2 on for 5 hours in the middle. Plant growth is fine. I was thinking about upgrading to LED- Has anyone tried the Interpet Tri-Spec lights- they seem a...

CO2 Art- I have recently purchased a Professional Aquarium CO2 Dual Stage Regulator and Solenoid Magnetic Valve with precision SMC Valve. It is connected to a fire extinguisher. My issue is it seems to lose output pressure. I set it to about 2 Bar, and over the course of a couple of weeks the...

4 or 5 weeks in- no apparent changes. I have no green algae, all bar a tiny bit on my glass, which does get direct sun. Much less than before, My black furry algae is as bad as ever and am now waiting a delivery of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide!

End of second week, 3rd dose in after todays water change. I definitely have less, in fact possibly no green algae on the glass. It catches a bit of sun during the day, so susceptible to a bit of algae on the glass. There has been little, if no impact on any of the black hairy algae I have (not...

Think this should work https://flic.kr/p/GhzhET. Maybe not- I have posted a link.

Not sure I'm that brave! My aquascaping skills are zero! I'm not sure my test of Nulagi is 100% fair- a week or 2 before the start I pulled all my plants out, didn't intend to- just went that way. Wanted to thin the stem plants out- ended up chucking most of them as I think they stop the light...

2nd week, 2nd dose, no noticeable difference to anything.

I'm still on my first weekly dose, and 2 days in. Nothing obvious changed with Algae, but my water does seem remarkably clear. I may be imagining it, I also use Purigen, but it seems clearer than ever. Alan

I have put my first weekly dose in- nothing miraculous has happened! Fish and plants still alive.

I have just got a delivery of Nualgi Freshwater. Had to pay another £11 for VAT and customs handling charge which was a tad unexpected. I have no great expectations for this stuff, but all the review on the web and YouTube have been positive so nothing ventured, nothing gained- so I'll post on...