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The Co2 art website says they are preset at 43 psi. If they are running at 80 this is wrong. I can't think of an atomiser that needs 5 bar to work. Most are under 2.5 bar.
If this is a pre set reg it should be about 40psi. I don't think the Co2 art pre set regs are adjustable in any way which indicates yours is faulty. That said I've only used their adjustable regs. See if you can message Karol at Co2 art.
Co2 Supermarket do a solenoid that will fit directly to your regulator. Contact them and then and ask about this, its much cheaper than the JBL version:
My advice would be if you can afford a dual stage regulator than get one. It should remove any concerns about end of tank dump.
But to say that all single stage regs will cause end of tank dump is in my opinion incorrect.
This just isn't true. I'm not saying it doesn't / can't happen, I had a cheap regulator that was prone to it so I used to change the bottle once the pressure started to drop off. Fortunately I didn't lose any fish as I don't run my Co2 on the limit. The regulators I've had since don't do it. If...
It is odd. At the weekend I will try it on a different reg. I just don't understand how it can be that blocked that not even the smallest of bubbles come out.
I connected the reg straight to the diffuser with just a short length of pipe - no bubbles and no leaks. I found another old atomiser and that runs OK too. I'm sure its not leaking. When disconnecting the failed one the pipe comes off with a thump (for want of a better description) so there is...
I've always used inline atomizers and about 6 months ago my one developed a very slight leak in the body. I got a new intense one from one of our sponsors which has been fine until the last week. The Co2 level started to drop off in the tank. There is plenty in the bottle and the working...
The JBL one will not work on the D-D regulator. There is a small hole on the neck of the D-D reg that the JBL adaptor does not cover and the gas will leak out of it. Some people have tried to cover / block the hole but I'm not sure how successful their attempts were.
I'd stay as you are if your plants are OK. The DC colour will always be behind what's in the tank. If the plant health starts to change then you may have to tweak it up a bit.
The first time I bought Seachem Flourish Excel it was also a golden colour. My second bottle was clear and I contacted them to make sure there was nothing wrong with it. They confirmed that both colours were OK. Since then every bottle I've had has been clear. My own Glutaraldehyde has a golden...
I noticed that too Andy. I've not seen any tanks on here with that configuration but as this was 10 years ago, maybe horizontal has been proved to be better?
Hope Jose and Ardjuna don't mind me interrupting.:)
I don't think there is any issue with JBL kit. Plenty of people have used them on here in the passed and swear by them.
When the Co2 restarts in the morning and the bubble rate is higher have you tried leaving it to see if it slows up again?
It will not remain the same green for 24 hours if you are turning the Co2 off. As the Co2 gasses off it will head to a blue colour, normal behaviour.
Have you read this:
http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=co2-measurement-using-a-drop-checker
Your diffuser can fill with water when the Co2 is not on. When the Co2 comes on the gas forces the water out. On mine this makes a water squirting type noise until the diffuser is empty of water. It normally stops after a few minutes, depending on the injection rate.
In answer to 1) the right hand gauge shows the pressure in your FE. The left hand gauge shows you your current working pressure which you can adjust with the pressure dial.
2) connect all your equipment up with the solenoid off, close the needle valve and have the pressure valve open slightly...
Sounds like you need to start your Co2 earlier and probably increase your injection rate. Some people on here have had Co2 on 4 hours before lights. I'd start with switching on earlier.
It sounds like you will need to increase your Co2. 3Bps on a tank that size is on the low side. If you don't trust the drop checker then get a PH pen.
What's your lighting set up and duration?
I'd also start manually removing the algae as soon as you can.
It does sound like a leak and this is old advice but can you not connect your CO2 directly to your atomiser to see if this eliminates anything?
Having worked so hard to sort your tank out it would be a shame to jack the CO2 in.
Sorry, I misread your original post, I thought you were getting rid of them all.
Some people on here are reviewing a new Co2 Art needle valve, maybe that might solve your problem?
Some diffusers need a working pressure of greater than 2 bar to work. If your reg has a fixed working pressure of 2 or below it cant drive the diffuser.
Thanks Richard. My reason for asking is that one of my regs suffers from end of tank dump with a fire extinguisher. I'd just like confirmation that this doesn't / cannot happen with the Co2 Art one. It's a great price but I'm wary that you can get what you pay for.:)
Not really sure why you're digging at me over this. My current reg is single stage. As you point out dual stage regs are usually much more expensive which is why I want to know if this does what it says on the tin.
If anyone else can add something useful here it would be appreciated.
If you've no fish you can crank it up high to help your plants get established. You can then start to back it off while keeping an eye on your plants health. Don't forget you will be looking for a lime green drop checker when your lights come on as a rough guide.
I think it's just to be sure you have maximum Co2 concentration at lights on. This is when plants will absorb the most. Their usage will tail off during the photo period.
The top one is the original one which I don't think is produced anymore. This was a sealed unit. The second one is the latest model which I believe comes apart for easier cleaning, some people have reported issues putting them back together though.
Sorry to hear of your troubles and loss.
With your current set up I'd say you just have to keep and eye on your bottle pressure. Once the pressure starts to drop the bottle is on its way out. my 2K bottle is normally at 60, once it gets to 45ish it is time to get a refill.
You'd be very...
Out of interest, what is your PH from the tap?
You may not need a 1 point drop depending on your water. Have a look what Clive says here:
Still have algae...too much light still? | Page 3 | UK Aquatic Plant Society
I'm not sure if you can adjust the working pressure on the reg you have which maybe why you've just got a bottle pressure guage. It could still work if the reg fixed pressure is above two bar.
If it is adjustable you just need another gauge.
This gauge looks like it is designed for your bottle pressure as opposed to your working pressure. What does this read when you connect it to your CO2 bottle?
Bertie if you have bubbles moving through your bubble counter but nothing out of the spray bar you either have a leak or haven't given the system enough time to build up pressure.
As an aside I'm not sure it makes any difference which way the diffuser is connected as from what I can see it is...
I would monitor it again today Bertie. Canisters that are low in Co2 can 'dump' the end of the bottle quickly (depending on your reg) and this may be what happened yesterday. If the fish are gasping again today then drop your bubble rate.
Do you have a lot of surface movement?
Yeah I did shake it and it seemed better and I always do since but, I still say this stuff performs closer to Easycarbo than Excel. If I was spot dosing Excel on BBA it would be pink the next day.
I'd leave it today and just see what effect the earlier start has but I'm certain you will have to up your injection rate a bit. It's a good idea to remove the affected leaves.
Hi Bertie. You need to get to lime green at lights on. I'd try switching the Co2 on earlier in half hour steps or you could up the injection rate. You can also turn the Co2 off earlier if you like.
My Co2 comes on 4 hours before lights on and goes off 2 hours before lights out and my injection...
Normal excel dose is 1ml per 40L daily. Have you have mixed your glut with water first? Sorry if that's a dumb question it's just that your post reads like you want to add neat glut to your tank.
Ordinary bleach is fine (1 part bleach to 10 of water) but give it a good rinse afterwards. As for time it depends how blocked it is. Try half an hour and see if you get any improvement.
Sorry I have now. I think that's probably expected performance with your current set up. Have you considered putting the diffuser under the filter intake? That might reduce your Co2 usage, but personally I'd see how your current configuration works before changing.
Ok. Keep an eye on the fish while the Co2 is on. If its an UP in line atomiser you are using you will get some bubbles on the top. Can you see small bubbles taking a circular path after being driven down the front of the glass?
You need to be at lime green when the lights come on. Maybe the first thing to try is have the Co2 come on 2 hours before lights. Mine comes on 3 and a half hours before lights. It's a case of testing different durations or injection rates.
As far as fittings go it's just a push fit on this, so you may want jubilee clips. I'm using this on a 35l tank and have been really impressed. I had no significant drop in flow and had really bad surface scum when using a glass diffuser under the filter intake, but since setting this up it has...
Interesting. I find the DIY mix more comparable to EasyCarbo then Excel. I say that as I have to dose more of the DIY mix when spot dosing than I do regular Excel. I also found this with EasyCarbo. One other thing, if I get Excel on my hand it can burn a bit whereas this doesn't happen with DIY...
I've just looked at my reg and can see the pin hole you mean. I wonder what purpose it serves? Have you tried to put araldite over it?
It's a real pain that Deltec don't produce these anymore.
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