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I remember that thread too something about the more CO2 that's available the more chance of making food over converting O2 or something like that...
Look for Plantbrain's posts that's Mr. Barr.
The drop checker is always just a guide, its not accurate. If your fish and Plants are healthy then it doesn't matter what colour your drop checker is....As you've already got the best working BPS for yourself and the tank I'd be inclined to stick to what's working for you, since there is never...
hmm it all depends, sometimes it can last for ages and other times I have to change within a week, you can tell its starting to go when the mix inside gets cloudy.
I saw them the other day but no idea how its supposed to work to be honest why use two ceramics when the co2 would force the water out of the second one .... it makes no sense to me. it even shows the Co2 Coming from the first ceramic tube and into the second one.... It looks like its just some...
Not since the surface area is larger towards the base allowing mire gas exchange. It's the chemical reactions in the solution that take the time to register the change in carbic acid formation ( I think IRS carbic acid )
I think it's something to do with the saturation level of the water. As in hard water has more saturated in it but I'm sure the 'holy' CEG will be here soon to put us right.
What are you using it with? Bare in mind gas is easy to compress so if the pressure increases inside the diffuser 2.5 bps could easily be the same as 2bps when under more pressure.
As long as your plants are healthy then you don't really need to keep increasing your BPS, If you feel that the fish are acting differently then use your discretion, I notice that after about an hour or two of the CO2 being on the fish go about acting normal again, however if they keep acting...
My spraybar is about 1-2inches below the surface and the Upatomiser is about 5-6 inches down the back of the tank. My nipple for the co2 also points upwards just in case yours doesn't
Just to let you know if you can run it through a separate empty bottle just in case the froth runs high or the bottle gets knocked over. When I was running DIY co2 there were times when yeast would froth and enter the tank! Not what you want as it gets everywhere and kills the fish :(
They always fill up with water overnight, mine is the same. Prob another reason why it takes a while to work as the gas will compress while it displaces the water.
Could be due to your water not being saturated with CO2 when it comes on and your only seeing the mist when it becomes saturated, I don't notice misting for about 30mins after the CO2 comes on with mine but i know its working as the bubble counter shows the CO2 churning away.
I wouldn't worry about it you won't get 100% absorption the way your doing it nor do you need it. If your plants are happy and your fish aren't dead then your winning. You can see the bubbles getting smaller as they reach the surface of the tank, the small bubbles left over are only a tiny...
UpAtomisers are alot more effective at diffusing the co2 around the tank, alot of people swear by them! If you can fit one on your external you'd be mad not too!
I've used both and will be sticking with the atomisers ;)
I use a 600g Disposable Setup from the DIY section of the forum. £13 for a Canister on a solenoid lasts about 2 months (8 hours a day) on my 210 using an inline UpAtomiser.
Really worth it in the long run to get the parts yourself, might take a little bit of time to find the parts but you'll...
Hey Guy,s just installed this system but i have issues and need some help. When i turn on the regulator at the bottle i get gas coming out for about 1-20mins and then it stops....to get it started again i have to turn of the regulator and reopen it and then it does the same again and again...
Just ordered a UP One,Thans for the advice. Now for it to arive fro HK....Should take a while cause of the volcano...but who cares i work at the airport in aberdeen and i have lots of time off!
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