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Fill into/onto a plastic shopping bag.
How much water are you changing at a time? I can do a 50% with little to no substrate disturbance during refill but my tank is 50cm deep.
Unfortunately you'd have to disassemble the tank to run it through the machine that bevels/polishes but the machine could easily take a couple of mm (or more as needed) off the each side so you didn't end up with a massive bevel and all sides remain the same height.
The guy I did the second timer for had his psu go phut big style so we replaced it with a Mean Well APV-35-12 driver
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-drivers/7703908/
Done, please excuse the hand drawing.
The timers I used had 4 pins, 2 for powering the timer and 2 for the switch. For this to work you need to plug the psu into the left end and the light into the right and leave both switches on the psu permanently on.
I'm not currently using it but it will be back in use soon for a different project. The power supply is not sealed in the first place so I didn't bother making any special effort to seal it. The wiring comes out a hole drilled in the side. The switches were removed to allow the timers to sit...
While they do the trick they're not perfect by any means and I wouldn't feel comfortable making them for others due to imo a lack of consistency. With the tools I have available I'd struggle to make them for thinner glass. They're pretty tough to get the bends consistent and took a bit of...
I managed to snap stainless steel locking wire doing mine, I ended up using a scalpel.
You'll also need to get some silicone remover if you haven't already.
I liked the plastic ones but no one does them for 10mm glass, so looked at the ada ones and decided I didn't like the price but the idea was sound so I diyed
Lindy have you tried pinching your ada ones a touch to make them grip the tank better?
Sorry cant help there. I know how they work from when I looked at setting up a marine but never looked into models. Trying one of the marine forums would be best or ask in the off topic section on here as there are a few reef and ex reef peeps about
Those are designed to fill chips in laminated glass and wont be any good for scratches. Think of it like this, the cross section of a scratch is like a V where as a chip is like this /_\ so the resin will fall out of the scratch very quickly. If we had a scratched screen you either got a new one...
The only difficult bit is putting the new wires into the pcb and as far as soldering on a pcb goes it's pretty easy. You could use crimps for the rest of it making it easier to do.
Thanks:) no an aircraft engineer. Just sat down looked at what I wanted to do, what I needed to do it and went from there. Tbh if it had been a bit more complex like the psu being a funny voltage or the timers having a higher load I would have needed help but luckily I have access to that at...
Hi All,
This is a quick how to for a dual timer installation on an Arcadia Stretch LED luminaire the objective is to replace the two switches with timers to give individual control of the moonlight and the main light.
Before I continue a quick disclaimer:
WARNING! this project requires the use...
Just to clarify I meant to slow the flow as a test only. If it works then enlarging the holes will have the same effect as slowing the flow by reducing exit velocity
Is it glass or plastic? If its plastic try opening the holes up 0.5mm at a time till the sound stops. If its glass you could try fine sand paper wrapped around a dowel. Before you get the tools out have you tried slowing the flow? If this fixes the noise then enlarging the holes will work
The metal hooks like the ADA ones are not as obtrusive as you may think especially if you put them on the ends of they tank. I needed 8 and as I'm cheap I made my own, a couple of quid for some stainless strip that I then cut and folded at work. They are nice and strong too my cat loves to sleep...
You control the flow by how much water you pump in. You could have a 4in diameter overflow and 100l/hr pump your flow rate would still only be 100l/hr but if you had a 1/2in overflow and a 4000l/hr pump you'd have a wet floor very fast....
Never tried a fluidized bed filter before, I cant see it being better biologically than a trickle filter but it would have the advantage of not off gassing your co2. Seal the sump, minimise splashing and inject your co2 into the return line and you shouldnt have to many issues. DIY - Acrylic...
The ebi is quite a nice little tank (I have one), an eheim 2213 will take the heater and will provide good flow without turning it into a whirl pool. If the tank is just for cherries then I would not bother with a heater.
PM me the email addy and Ill send them a question asking if the 781 is suitable for sealing in a potable water tank that will be constantly full of water and Ill see if I get the same answer :shh:
Ollie
I read on a Aussie tank building article dow corning silicone(cant find the link or remeber which type) was the one of the best to use even though it says not for aquarium use. He contacted the distributor to find out why and it was because too many people were using it incorrectly and blaming...
When I was doing aircraft compsites we had a job where we needed to make an intake with a piece pvc tube similar shape to the outlet of a lilly we heated the tube while pushing it over a waxed die to expand and shape it. The die was made of wood: filled, sealed and painted to a high gloss then...
That explains why my corys spawned after the last water change :D
Makes me feel a bit better to as cant get to my lfs till sunday :evil:
Thanks for the help
Ollie
Hi All
I have a Tetratec 300w heater light is going indicating on but according to my Marina Aqua Minder it appears to have stopped heating the tank.
Which should I trust?
Is there any way to tell if the heater is actually working?
Thanks
Ollie
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