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You forgot the the chrome and nickel ;) The reason stainless doesn't rust is down to the chrome content. When chrome "rusts" it forms a very hard and non reactive chromium oxide layer. It's this property that protects the steel against rusting. The higher the chrome content the more resistant...

I'm also supplied by Thames water (Oxfordshire) and have never had an issue with the water quality. The hardness on the other hand..... Good for Tanganyikan cichlids but not alot else

I don't see why it cant be done. A lot of reef keepers use various controllers for all sorts, https://www.neptunesystems.com/products/apex-controllers/ This seems to be one of the most popular and can control/monitor all sorts of things.

I also own it, it was one of my first aquarium books. Unfortunately some of the ideas in regards to setup and running an aquarium are a tad dated but it's still well worth a read and their studies they carried out in the wild are gold dust

I also have very hard water and never had any issues with it, even rescaping/adding more soil to a stocked tank with no problems.

I've used john innes no3 recipe for all my dirt tanks even rescaping established tanks with no issues. In a planted environment inorganic nitrate is your friend and a necessity for the plants.

That would be my assumption as the spray bar adapts straight to the shepherds crook no need for the elbow.

I see what you're talking about now. That's the outlet side, on my 2213 I have a shepherds crook outlet not the elbow. So I guess it depends on which outlet kit you have been given with the filter.

I can't see your pic, are you talking about the bit that screws into the base of the canister.

I wouldn't say they have high co2 just alot of gas exchange that keeps the co2 levels constant. Things like rapids, large shallow areas and a turnover measured in cubic metres a second all help

This is my experience, I can't speak for the UK as I've not spent much time on the rivers over here. I'll also add that any where I saw plants growing in open water (lakes etc) they tended to be a couple of meters deep. Or a plant species that is a real weed and even then were often algae laden.

It could be a different brand optiwhite is the brand name for pilkington's low iron glass. It's also only low iron so I suppose it's possible for it to still be a touch green end on. I have no idea what brand glass my tank is.

My optiwhite looks like this end on 10mm thickness and 450mm depth Hope this helps

The other thing you can do is enlarge the holes that are there and this will also slow the velocity down.

He is and a downright pita to boot

My 2 before I rescaped for the mbuna.

My cat got tagged by one of my mbuna while she was having a drink the other day and come to think of it I've not seen her drinking from it since.

Not sure about it being photo shopped, if you look at the bulbs he's using there is one red tube plus a couple of pink so my guess is that the light spill is highlighting the books.

Your call, You'll never need that much light but if you're trying to grow out a scape in a very short space of time you may want that amount of light. The thing you need to understand as a beginner is there are a lot of pitfalls and too much light is the easiest to avoid. That will allow you to...

You'll find 2 tubes plenty especially if you're new to this. I ran a single 54wt5 over my 120x45x45 to give you an idea of how little you actually need. To much light = massive headache

http://www.ukaps.org/forum/index.php?threads/30941/

Yup, it's a good little unit. I've done a dual timer installation how to for it in the diy section.

What I'd do is use a 90deg countersink on the end of the tube then get a piece of sheet the same thickness as the tube wall, cut a disc the same as the od of the tube 45deg the edge and glue it in with acrylic cement.

No worries. I have the older e1500 and really like it. I think they're still built the same just less power hungry

I've not but others on here have. I don't see why you can't use it on it's own it may go anaerobic if you go to deep with it. I don't know what sort of scape you have in mind but you could use the powder for the foreground area and the normal in the back but bear in mind that shrimp and fish...

The largest grain will always end up on top. True of pretty much any substrate. You can also stick the normal aquasoil in a blender and make your own powder.

I think the filter will be on the low side flow wise. Check out the jbl e901 low power consumption (but not as low as the ecco) 900l/hr and 7l capacity. If you put ada powder over the normal soil it will sink in and the normal stuff will end up on top.

What's the flow rate on the ecco? I have the baby one and really like it, just make sure you get a spare set of the handle clips. If you're not sure whether it will be man enough have look at the new jbl externals. For heating look into a hydor inline.

Start with the water chemistry that you're planning on having long term.

I was discussing glass bonding with my mate that made my 60cm tank. He said it is really strong and splash resistant but not suitable for underwater use hence the need for a seal of silicone. Give that there are tanks available the have silicone so minimal they look as described the price had...

You should be good. Now you need to focus on getting the co2 well distributed once you achieve that, with your ferts sorted things will start going your way:)

Can you run it on two bulbs or raise the unit itself? Shame to ruin a perfectly good luminare.

You wont get anything but sound advice on here especially with Clive (ceg4048) in the mix but like Morpheus he can only show you the way you must choose red or blue pill;)

I use 1x54wt5 over that size tank. 2 would be plenty.

Just had look at the tgm website and the ada equivalent tank is £240 ish more expensive but is made from 12mm glass instead of 10mm

I'll let you make up your own mind. This tank is 4-5 years old too.

Pm Freshwater Shrimp(forum sponsor) they sell NA stuff. Ill try get a pic for you tomorrow.

Bearing in mind I'm looking at it on my phone I cant see any difference. Im sure viewing in the flesh would be different but the bits on mine I've just looked at have zero overspill just dead straight silicone only on the ends of the glass Ill try get a pic at some point just for you nath;)

I must have a newer one then because the silicone work on mine is on par with any of the pics I've seen of ada or na tanks. As the others have said Optiwhite is Pilkington's name for their low iron glass. If you're concerned about clarity then have a look at this: Pilkington Optiwhite

I own a tgm tank and it is very well made and no noticable cloudyness.

Once you get to 25 posts you should see the buy sell swap section:)

Botia striata – Zebra Loach (Botia striata kolhapurensis) — Seriously Fish They should be good they may uproot newly planted plants but ime were not a problem plant wise any more than corys would be. Have a good read of this if you haven't already. The Soil Substrate Planted Tank - A How to...

Id go for the low tech too. No liquid carbon just ferts and paitence. Have you seen botia striata?

I wouldnt say its elitist merely trying to point out that this is not a required piece of kit. How many noobs spend ££££ on lights only to be told to reduce the intensity.

Im not saying its for pros only just that noobs should understand the causes and solutions to algae before condsidering this sort of gadget

I think the point is that there are ways of dealing with algae that all noobs should learn first. Pro scapers are often pushing things so hard certain algae are unavoidable and painstaking manual removal is the only way of dealing with it. The difference is that a pro scaper could easily sort...

If youre in a hardwater area already the limestone will not increase your water hardness futher as there is already a large amount of calcium in the water. I live in a hard water area and use ji3 and even used limestone for hardscape in my tank.

No it says it uses ozone(ozone generator) which the twinstar is not.

If you decide to go ahead with using the o2 please read and understand this http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCoQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hse.gov.uk%2Fpubns%2Fhse8.pdf&ei=yXiIUoTfDOyV7Ab68IGgBg&usg=AFQjCNFtcZMgnfAcFkFjymcIu15S2IhXyg I can't stress enough how dangerous o2 is...

You dont need an air pump just get a divers bottle same as using FE co2 then

Seems weird it only has 3ft tubes on a 4ft tank. If you can, ditch the 2x39w for 1x54w then you will defo in the lowtech bracket. Or add plenty of floating plants and that should sufficently diffuse the light.

It will go. I had to do it on mine. Boiling water and brute force did the trick and as tim says it wont come off again.

I'll have a look at work for you but I'm not back in till Tuesday. I'll check my own stash aswell I may have some thing. If it is tapered or has partially formed threads you'll find you need a spanner after a few turns, my main concern would be overtightening

I stand corrected:) As it doesnt seem to have a sealing surface I would assume it relies on deformation of the plastic fitting to seal making a tapered fitting a more likely choice. Have you tried cleaning the threads out? Looks like theyre full of plastic. Also the new fitting may not be cross...

Or a BRASS BSP Taper x Hosetail Fitting Connector Fuel Pipe | eBay The AN fitting is 1/8 NPT and this fitting is 1/8 BSP.

An AN840-4D fitting may do the trick

Cant give you an exact size but it will be a tapered pipe thread maybe bsp or the like

Get up your 25 posts and offer them here I sure someone will find them a home.

You can put them in a cup of boiling water for a few minutes usually sorts them for a few months

I think that should be titled How to grow algae and waste as much money as possible while doing it. At least it doesnt go as far as reccomending nitrate/phosphate removal.

Check your water report if your really worried, if it was that bad we wouldnt be able to drink it. Ill have to dig out my pond stuff but I think it was enough to treat 10000 litres for around £7

I never bother on my 4ft and never have any issues 50%wcs. If you worried about cost, buy pond dechlor its the same stuff just more concentrated.

Totally agree Luis, the larger variety of stuff would attract more people and potentially pull more people into differing aspects of the hobby that is keeping stuff in a glass box. If I'd had more cash I would have walked out of Vivarium with a full dart frog setup and frogs. I was planning on...

How about at yours? you're in a more central location;)

Just to add to the debate, even with Paulo's offer I was still going to end up spending more for the weekend in London than the entire trip to Holland for Vivaruim cost me:wideyed:

Oh Blast! I'd already booked the Friday off to come help with the ukaps stand. I was looking forwards to putting more faces to names and catching up with those I met last year :(

Could be some sort of ceramic/glass packing or more likely a metal oxide of some description (the oxidised remains of your element)

http://www.aquariumplantfood.co.uk/fertilisers/dry-chemicals/starter-kits/ei-starter-kit.html More expensive than 1 bottle of tpn+ but it makes alot of bottles if that makes sense.

You dont need a drop checker for easy carbo. Buy dry ferts and make you own mix its 1000x cheaper

No idea sorry. I've just double checked and mine is only 11w but I'm only growing crypts, java fern and hydro japan. Id be tempted to go for the 11w as you can always raise it up or add some liquid carbon to compensate.

A PL light (e.g. Arcpod) will be plenty. I've got a 13w over my 30l nano. If you're adding co2 it actually lowers the light compensation point of plants, meaning you can use even less light. If you want to try LEDs check out the setup in this journal...

What balance? They have no livestock to worry about so loads of ferts, co2 and minimal light or have I missed somthing?

I believe the LED units are not on the market yet. New fluval ones, double check with Dan Crawford

Can't help with the glassware but plants are easy just blow the bags up like fish bags and you'll have no probs, I did this with a load of plants I bought in holland at the start of the year. All bought on the Saturday and not planted till Tuesday with no I'll effects.

I'm selling my 120x45x45 rimless braceless optiwhite at the mo only after £300 for the full setup lights filter etc. If you want the tank only id be happy to sort something out....

I've personally had no problems with cardinal tetras or harlequin rasboras (thames valley water oxford). A few others to consider http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/pseudomugil-gertrudae/ http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/iriatherina-werneri/...

Lol they can put on one for people with MTS aswell, will be good to catch up Ed.

:roll: There is always one :lol:

Saturday for me. How about everyone posting mugshots for easy identification?

Add the extra filter, I had a 3000l/h wave maker and a crystal profi 1500 on the same sized tank with no issues.

:text-+1: I agree with clive. I use Profito but only as a trace mix alongside potassium nitrate and potassium phosphate dry powders for macronutrients

Hi Clive, I was wondering about cryp melt. I've just moved some crypts from my low tec 4ft into my 30l nano. The main difference between the 2 tanks is my 4ft is straight tap at 14Gdh and my nano is RO remineralised to around 3Gdh. Is this a Co2 related issue or down to the change in hardness...

Can you post pics of your set up and drop checker colour? I still think a spraybar along with a drop in light intensity will sort you out. It also sounds like you have room to add more co2. Dont worry about pearling with high flow and proper distribution you will very rarely see it as the o2...

No reason not too or keep them as they are, up to you really it wont hurt either way if you keep up the 50%wcs all double dosing is doing is wasting ferts. Lowering the lighting will slow things down and give you a chance to get handle on the tank. If youve got a dead spot then you do need to...

You could try a luminare they can be picked up for reasonable money second hand there are some good led ones coming out for £30-35ish

Yes that would be about right, Im currently running 54w t5 over my 60 gal you could go a bit more with the t8 ie 2x 17w would be ok without being to much

I've heard good things about Big Als. It would be woth your time to wait and do more research. If you havent, read this http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=18943. Its a great write up on the non co2 side of the hobby and should be a great help.

None of the petsmart stuff is ideal. For product reccomendations try http://www.barrreport.com/forum.php?s=67d10a6b0d4a3a3fb9d58a3502017f42 its US based

Can be but no need and you may find the gravel sinks through it as the fluval substrate is pretty light

Check out these tanks 2 of the best non co2 tanks around http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=21327&start=170 http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14521&start=230

No problems with where your from you'll get all the help you need from here. It is a good fertiliser but only contains micro nutrients you will also need to supply macro nutirents as well If you can find it Tropica Plant Nutrition Plus is ideal and will keep things simple for you while your learning

Forget about Ph and amonia measuring as there is no need unless you are after a specfic reading on the ph for breeding fish etc. The water that comes out of the tap will be fine. There are alot of plants that dont require co2. The higher the intensity of the lighting the more co2 is required...

Lower the light intensity. Get a drop checker to measure co2 levels. Look at how the flow is being distributed, a spray bar along the back at the top pointing towards the front is best. Using EI substrate matters less so dont worry about that. Get you flow and co2 distribution right and the rest...

Just seeing one may not be enough to tip your decision but most on here will tell you they are worth it. With out water or if it does have some and its slightly tinted/ glass dirty or has a dark background you may not see the difference. My tank has no background just the magnolia coloured wall...

First thing to do is lower your light intensity. I would keep dosing and doing your water changes as normal and slowly wind back the co2. Substrate shouldnt matter as long as you keep up the water column dosing

Cherries will happily live and breed in a room temp tank, though breeding will slow or stop at low temps <16degC. My plants grew better in an unheated tank than heated (non co2) lower temp water is capable of holding more gas (both co2 and o2) for algae eaters you could look into hillstream...

Nice to see someone with a proper sized tank for clown loaches :thumbup: How big are they and any pics? My snail removal method was dwarf puffers.

Weekly

Well there is enough hardness in that water to prove your test kits wrong. I wouldn't worry on that front, so it is unlikely you have a calcium defiency unless you havent been doing water changes... I would follow Clive's(ceg4048) advice and focus on making sure you are diffusing and...

First of all how old are your test kits? and What type are they? Test kits tend to be a touch unreliable. Get a water report from your water company for eg http://www.thameswater.co.uk/water-quality-reports/z0283-carterton-&-witney.pdf Its more accurate for your hardness etc. To post pics read...