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that is just micros/traces, you will also need to add macros. nitrate, phosphate and potassium (N P K) https://www.btowstore.com/epages/BT2928 ... 100-PP-100 and https://www.btowstore.com/epages/BT2928 ... 100-PN-100 if you dont want to mess about mixing and adding separate powders then just...

even the "dennerlle guide to fascinating aquariums" recommends a lighting break, they do say algae cant adjust as well and it doesnt harm the plants as it simulates a tropical thunder storm or something other similar twaddle. i think the reason it benefits tho, is because they also recommend...

there are many other options for substrate other than just root tabs or soil. look into the different types of substrate you can get. and i would say not "perhaps" but "definitely" add ferts. you really don't want to try and keep the "dosing below the recommended levels". why are you worried...

you could introduce some floating plants? this will have the effect off lowering the intensity of the lighting into tha tank. also plants the grow upto and along the surface will do the same. or you could use some card or similar on the perspex part of the underneath of the lighting unit to...

excellent! :lol:

i'm not too up on the water chemestry side of things but i'm pretty sure you will get told in this forum that those figures are perfectly fine. no need to worry or to mess about adding things to alter that! also its a good idea to try the drop checker in different places around the tank, good...

well thats a lot of light for quite a long time! thats the equivalent of more than 3w/gal as its t5. i would maybe lower the photo period to 8 hours. i guess if the tank is rammed with fast growers you may be running out of nutrients.... you dont mention what the filter/flow is, this seems to...

do you really believe that test kit? any algae or signs of deficiency? if not bin the test kit and carry on as you are! :0)

don't worry! i know how hard it is to get your head around at the outset! just wish i could say it gets easier! :wink:

good point! :wink: i do believe it to be co2 related. in the recent past i have had lowering co2 levels as the week goes on, due to evaporation (increased water agitation) and also rapid plant growth interfering with flow, however both those have hopefully been addressed! i dont know why i...

thanks for the input! just looking at your tank from the link in your sig. very nice! :0) looks very similar in regards to plant mass, you achieved that with just the 2028?? i cant fault your reasoning , however, i have movement in pretty much all my plants including the "problem" areas, the...

thanks, yeah, have drop checker, its lime green at lights on and very yellow at lights out! altho i have upped co2 in the last week as i felt it may not have been as "maxed" out as it could have been!

hi all, i have signs of a potassium deficiency in my fast growing stems, rotala, hygro difformis and ludwiga reopens. (old leaves have pin holes and small amount of green spot algae) however i refuse to believe it can actually be a K deficiency, i use EI and add extra K as well as whats present...

yup, i'd say you're correct! :0)

ok, thanks, pretty much what i thought, just wanting conformation! 8)

hi, i'm quite new to this planted tank lark, i have a fairly new set up (4th wk) things seem to be going ok. using IE, NPK and dry micro from AE. i believe my co2 is now at a decent level from lights on, lime green/yellow with a tank ph drop of 1. i have decent enough flow with a 800l/h filter...

the pips are "loc-line" they can be bent to any position, extended etc!

thanks for that! It is clearer now. I admit, i have been struggleing with this! Mainly because it does go against everything i previously thought i knew! :-/ Everyday is a school day! :-)

i understand its supposed to be easy, but surely an idea of "base rates" and plant uptake is needed to a certain degree? if your nitrates (or phos altho not a prob) are high from the tap and you add more in your doses than the uptake of the plants, doing a water change wont "reset" the tank...

do you have a link george please? sounds like an interesting read!

ok, thanks the reason i'm confused i think, is that i have some macro ferts that contain Ca,K,Mg,S and i was told this is GH booster! :0/ ok, i'm gonna order some more dry ferts, seems easier than trying to mix and match my dosing methods! i have KH2P04 and KN03 already mixed, as my tap water...

thats pretty high! if your water report is like mine, 8 houses taken from my town of 22000 properties and they can be supplied from 4 different servies reservoirs, it may not mean a lot!! :0( mine also says dosed phospates, but has no figures, my tests reveal its around 3ppm!! nitrate tests...

:0) you're just up the road from me! i've just recently found this forum so not read that article until now. its a good read, but dosnt mention the GH booster that is on AE and is talked about lots? where does this fit in? thanks.

ok, so i'm seeing "csm+b" written a lot in regards to EI this is confusing me a tad, is the CSM part the "gh booster" thats available here http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/index.p ... ts_id=1377 and the "B" boron which is in the trace ferts here http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/index.p ...

do they have that in the big planted tank? if so that'd explain why they have about 20 sae's in that tank! :0) tis a great shop tho!!

hi, just wanting the usaul EI help, i've read quite a lot and nearly have it sorted, i think! :0/ i curently have:- a 240l tank with 2x54w T5 (could run 4 if needed) pressurised CO2 tap water KH 8 GH11 nitrate between 10 & 30 high phosphate 3ish a week into the set up, fairly well planted...