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Vaguely accurate assumption: Algae needs certain conditions to get established - light / nutrients / flow / etc. (Obviously physical removal, spot treatments etc are beneficial, but those notwithstanding ...) Once algae has been become established, and those conditions are then significantly...

That's what I thought. I guessed it could slow the spread of algae between plants, but I wasn't convinced it would do much else. Wash your mouth out! :D:D:D

Today an LFS recomended a UV filter for treating algae. I've not come across this suggestion before. I know it's not likely to be the whole solution, but is it legit?

I have a similarly deep, low tech tank with algae. I hope you enjoy a challenge. 🤣😭 Others will be along with more informed opinion soon, but in the meantime, based on my challenges with a deep tank... I can't see the dimensions of your tank other than depth. Your filter is rated at 780Lph, but...

Apologies for the radio silence. Current status : Tank lights off, with the glass masked where the substrate meets it, and dosing 25ml Blue Exit daily. Water tests: ph 7.3 kh = 120 gh >180 Ammonia = 0 NO2 = 0 NO3 < 20 Am going to try to come up with a way to "suck out" what I suspect is BGA...

I've read the article, thanks. So far I've followed the instructions on the Blue Exit bottle (call me old fashioned 😁) so 25ml (250L tanks, probably 220L water) once a day for 5 days. The tank was also covered for 5 days. I've lost track but I think that was a week ago. Yesterday I went back to...

[Cue disappointed sigh] It's back in exactly the same spot it was before. So I guess I'll be working my way through the rest of the bottle of Blue Exit. I'd considered taping up the glass in front of the effected substrate, so that's now gonna happen too. I'm reluctant to cover the tank...

Sorry for the delay replying. I can see no signs of BGA on the surface now, but the patch was small and I inadvertently dispersed it before I could scoop it out so that in itself is not conclusive. There are still some patches of darkness against the front glass under the surface of the...

Unless there's new growth of BGA, it's unlikely the old will be visible. I tried to scoop out what I could see, but much of it just dispersed like dust as soon as I disturbed the substrate around it. Yes, the TNC Carbon is liquid. I believe its 2% Glutaraldehyde. It's couple of years old, so...

4 days in complete darkness and one more day of Blue Exit to go. I had been using some TNC Carbon before, particularly in the hope of it helping the Dwarf Hairgrass establish, but figured I should stop that for the moment. And the lights were on for 7hrs. In terms of getting back to usual, is...

Having been reading this thread (and understanding some of it) one thing that stood out to me is how low Nitrate can lead to BGA. Doesn't that imply that, once a tank is properly cycled, having too few fish can make BGA more likely?

Good to know. Did you have it in the substrate? I've read conjecture that Exit Blue just deals with "stains" and not the BGA itself. Any thoughts?

Looking at the tank in daylight, I can see a couple more areas where I suspect BGA in the substrate. In each case it is under the surface and against the front glass. 1) If I were to black out the areas where it is not evident above the surface (eg with gaffer tape) for a week or so, could that...

Is this BGA in the Akadama of what had, till recently, been a near dormant tank? Having done a big rescape a couple of weeks ago, replaced nearly all the plants, and started slowly introducing new livestock (algae crew first) it'll be a massive PITA if I have to strip the tank again. I've...

Any tips for removing algae from plants? I'm doing a big tank re-vamp an most of what I'm dealing with is like gren/brown fur. It's also quite .... err ... mature ... so much of it might even be dead?

About 1ml of 2% glute per 50L. Aiming for daily, but I'm not In the habit at the moment so every 2-3 days.

I'm using TNC Complete at 1ml per 10L once aweek. The substrate (Adakama) and tank are not new and (as discussed in another thread) should have a good culture of bacteria, so it's not been like cycling a new tank from scratch. I'm aiming for 10% water changes a week at the moment. I'm working on...

Micros??? Micronutrients??? The bioload will increase over time - I'm just trying not to rush the stocking. At the moment I'm dsoing the NPK at teh recommended level. Is it OK to dose the same amount twice a week? ie double the dose? The area covered isn't that big. Bearing in mind my lightl...

220L tank has been cycled for about a month. Diatoms came and went. I'm doing water changes once a week, dosing NPK once a week, and trying to get into the habit of liquid carbon daily. There are 8 Tetras, 6 Ottos and 6 Amano, which shouldn't be anywhere near an excessive bio load for a tank...

If Scotchbrite won't shoft it iIdon't imagine a soft tooth brush will shift it, but I'll search out Goerge's video. In the meantime I've sent ND (ho made the tank) an email.

Any tips on removing algae from tank sealant? The tank has been dry for a couple of weeks, I've tried H2O2, Milton, and Scotchbrite. Nothing is shifting it and I don't want to risk damaging the sealant.

Is there a way to quickly and reliably kill off algae from a large quantity of Crypt Wenditi if the health of the rest of the tank isn't of concern? (I'll be stripping the tank and offering the plants cheap / swap / free if there is, or throwing them away if there isn't.)

I might try a full black out for a few days and massive water changes and then try liquid carbon. If I do use LC it will have to be part of a full tank strip down as the hard scaping is so large and the tank so deep and there's so much algae. (I know it's largely down to lack of maintainance...

What's the best way to clean BBA from large pieces of hardscaping?

My GDA has been left to do it's thing for a few weeks, but doesn't seem to be diminishing. I've go some new plants coming in the next couple of days which hopefully will soak up some nutrients. But any other tips on how to accelerate it's demise? A blackout perhapse?

Ceg - I'd read the algae pages but completely failed to make that leap of logic. Ta. Fixfish - you know damn well that's not going to happen. ;)

Thanks Ceg. Umfortunlately I had to look up definitions for 4 words, an only one of those was Kilngon. But on a more serious note .... So my algae means I have unhealthy plants. But how do I tell what's wrong with them?

Obviously I've failed to assimilate some vital piece if information, but here goes... Algae is, at least in part, due to plants not consuming all the nutrients in the water. Plants only consume nutrients when they're photosynthesising. Plants only photosynthesise when there is light. So why...

If i knew it, I'd forgotten it, so thanks stuworrall. FWIW I live in an area with very hard water so that's never going o be a problem as such :lol:

Lights are now on for 5hrs. Thanks for all the info, especially from Prof Ceg (though I do feel a bit like I've just had my homework contemptuously thrown across the class room by a preeminent university academic who's been made to teach in primary school. ;) :( )

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: Lights turned off now. :oops: Guess I'll be reading up on photoperiods this evening. :oops:

Not quite doing 50% changes but I'm doing them more than once a week, so yes, it shouldn't make any difference. 12hrs. The media is pretty clean, and getting rinsed when I do water changes.

Of course I knew that :oops:

Like Bob says ;)

I've had a reasonable amount of Diatoms in my new setup. I've not been particularly concerned as it's a new tank. But over he weekend there's been a bit of an explosion and it's now covering a lot more glass and more and more of the wood (as well as much of my Hair Grass. Light is 2x36W in...

I just wanted some pretty fish in the corner of the room :( ;)

Everything is either back braking or ball breaking at the moment :lol: but I'm sure it will all get easier. :) To be fair, I can't even really think of a way to manually remove the algae from clumps of grass that wouldn't mean them getting uprooted. If they had well established root systems...

Am I right in thinking they won't now grow much taller than that? With the height of my tank I'd rather not cause plants to be shorter :lol: Eiher way, that's a way to prevent diatoms attaching, not how to remove them once they're there. With the troubles I've had I'd rather not be pulling them...

They're cut down. But I guess it depends what you mean by "right down".

My new tank appears to have deveolped diatoms. Ok, nothing surprising there. And I've read up on how to deal with it. But any suggestions on how to remove it from eleocharis parvula / dwarf hair grass that a) hasn't grown in propperly yet and b) is in a tank that isn't mature enough to have...