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+1 on the drop checker. At the surface it's telling you a different story as to whats happening down below. You can't be far off though, that carpet looks great. Your flow seems to be going in various directions. The upper powerhead aiming across the top and the lower one aiming down low. The...

As Ian says more info would be needed about the setup. 99% of the time it's down to co2 and flow/distribution.

After removal and spot dosing you can try reducing light.

My fissidens was in a jar and I only added a few drops here and there. It still turned orange. You will have to be very careful in small volumes of water with EC. As you have shrimp, reducing light intensity and duration maybe a better option although many dose EC with shrimp with no ill...

Be careful treating with liquid carbon. I fried some fissidens this way on a window sill. Do you have any floating plants? Shading can help reduce light intensity thus helping deal with the thread algae.

Increasing your lighting could put you back right where you started. With everything you want to make gradual adjustments. Add half hour for a couple of weeks etc. Doubling the light intensity and adding 2 hours is a huge increase. Take it slowly otherwise your hard work could be ruined.

Sounds like co2, frustrating huh? I have most species flourishing in my tank although the odd plant here and there shows low co2 symptoms.

Cool, just wanted to be sure. ;) I've found once things settle in GDA comes on very slowly. When I do a big trim and remove a lot of plant mass it comes on a lot faster. I personally think it comes on stronger when the balance of the tank is upset. When I feel the tank is in the sweet spot I...

Is it GDA or GSA? Dust or Spot?

I'll go along with the excess light theory I think, it gets way to technical for me. :lol:

This debate comes up every now and again. http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=18067 A quick forum search for silicates will show similar stories. :thumbup:

What volume is the tank? I presume you have pressurized co2 to go with that huge amount of light :lol:

Certainly sounds like diatoms and at 4 weeks is quite normal. Shrimp and oto's would help clear them up. Lower light levels will also help.

Outbreaks of staghorn usually occur when tank maintenance slips. When was the last time you cleaned the filter and scrubbed the pipes? I would chase that down and tick it off the list.

As above. Reducing light will help you win the battle.

Yes. You want movement or ripples on the surface but not agitation. Movement without breaking the surface. In a liquid carbon dosed tank I presume you could get away with more surface agitation as the carbon is not in gas form it won't gas off.

To nuke BBA with liquid carbon it's best brushed directly, I use a toothbrush. I've not had to resort to any blackouts so can't comment on how effective it would be. How is the flow around that tank with the internal, internal? Can you improve it?

BBA is believed to be triggered by fluctuating co2 levels. As you are dosing a liquid carbon product you are not so much low light - low tech, but more low light - medium tech. The weekly water changes could be contributing towards the algae problem. JPT, suggests cutting back on water changes...

Reducing the light is a wise move. Can you give some information on your water changes? Frequency and volume. I've never liked the idea of the Juwel filters and ripped mine out. Removing those sponges inside the tank itself must be a pain.

6-8 hours a day is plenty of light. More light = more demand for co2. If the co2 is not supplied your plants will fail. Adding some floating plants to reduce the intensity of light would be more beneficial than increasing the photoperiod again. Less is more!

It's not a fert in a true sense but a form of carbon. The active ingredient is glutaraldehyde, go google it. :shh: This explains briefly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glutaraldehyde

Without good co2 adding light will only cause problems. Have you dropped the lighting levels again. back to only two bulbs? This would be the best move for now. I can't see the algae, a close up would help someone identify it for you. I can see what looks like light grey/silvery strands, kinda...

So you may appear to have adequate flow rating for the tank but as already posted, getting this flow around a triangular tank can be tricky. This is where your going to have to experiment by moving outlets and trying various configurations until you find one that works for you. Seems the TMC V2...

This, it could be a number of things. :thumbup:

I had the smae stuff in my 125 after about 3 weeks or so and put mine down to fluctuating co2 levels. As you have been using liquid carbon then changed to gas your tank will have suffered fluctuating levels. Aslo noticing the increase after a water changes shows that it's taking advantage of the...

I had a fair bit of BBA and as others have posted in high flow areas. I had some Cyprus Helferi with badly infected leaves on the surface and I think it came from the wood in close proximity. A hard pruning, toothbrush and easy carbo during water change followed with a good spot dosing seems to...

This may not be needed. You could try moving your lily pipe around to create different flow patterns around the tank or even try a spraybar on the back wall. You need to try and improve your co2 distribution and flow. I hear you on the unfortunate shrimp loss and liquid carbon but if it's killed...

If you are saying that is 1 weeks algae growth then you most certainly still have way too much light. Looking at your tank it looks pretty deep. Deep tanks need more attention to flow, your flow may not be as good as you believe.

I think maintenance. Everything could do with a good clean for starters. The yellowing could be a fert deficiency. You say the middle is the healthiest and probably recieves the best flow. Do you not have a drop checker? How do you estimate co2 levels? I would go for good maintenance, remove...

Your tank dimensions as listed on the link are 31*18*24 cm I would of thought this is more than 10l unless you have a lot of hardscape in there. 9w sounds about reasonable for the tank, you can reduce the amount of time you are running the lights and/or add some floating plants to help reduce...

As Mark "the master of low light" Evans has said, reduce the lighting. Removing as much as possible and plenty of good water changes will all help in eradicating the algae. How is your flow around the tank? Can we assume you are using a drop checker with 4dkh water and reagent to give an...

Do you have a good filter maintenance routine?

Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae Too high for what? the Oto's? I wouldn't have thought so. If your worrying about the hardness and the plants then relax. Have you reduced your lighting? It's been a good 2 weeks since this was advised but you keep looking at other...

Sorry, I'm out. I know naff all about led's. I'm sure someone that knows about them will chime in sooneror later, but even fixing co2+flow it will take a while to eradicate. If it's just as bad then it would suggest your lighting maybe a bit intense.

What is your lighting and how long is it on for? Edit. Tank dimensions and a pic helps. :thumbup:

Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae Tank specifications - 60x30x45 70L Lighting - Hagen Glo T5HO/48W - 8 Hours on I would say 48w is quite high over this volume. Your tank is a little over 2 weeks old. Diatoms do appear in new setups. Lower light will help through this...

Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae 1. Remove a tube yes. 2. Buy oto's if its's the brown diatom algae. 3. Drink tea :thumbup:

I'm not familiar with that product but generally liquid carbon and shrimp can be risky, especially with increased dosing. Proceed at your own risk. I would dose as normal and get into a routine. Weekly WC's and do the filter once every 2-3 weeks. Keep removing badly infected leaves. I had this...

For a student on a budget grab a brew and check in the articles section for Clives chat about EI.

Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae Understand. If this is the case, please save your cash, it's better off invested into good co2 delivery than on doubling light intensity. When you can grow healthy plants without algae then you can consider upping the light. If you...

Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae Why add another 70w of lighting if you cannot handle what you are using now? Easy carbo is 1ml per 50L? Your dosing to cover 1,500l there or 750l if you double dose. Increasing light will never reduce algae unless you blast it hard...

Re: New Tank - Brown Algae/Green Spot Algae/Thread Algae GSA could be low phosphates if I remember correctly. I would consider 48w over 70l pretty high lighting. Is it possible to raise your lights from the tank to reduce the intensity?

Re: New Tank - Brown Algae As Alastair said. Add a few Oto's they will soon clear it up and keep it at bay. I have a few Oto's that I rotate around when I setup a new tank. They usually go in after a week or 2.

Is this wood fairly new? If so, then white fungal growth can appear. Shrimp will usually polish it off, if not it can easily be wiped off or will go after a while. It is considered harmless. I can't see this white growth in your pics but can see a slightly green version of it. So it could be...

Is the filter internal? I find you have to keep on top of them to avoid staghorn. Could also be flow issue. Filter maintenance and good water changes should help keep on top of it. Remove any badly infected leaves. Reducing the lighting for an hour or 2 may help whilst your dealing with it. I...

EI works on principle that there is never any deficiencies in nutrients. Trying to cut back to allow for hardscape can introduce deficiencies. Keep it simple and dose to the tanks capacity. To sum it all up. It's better to have excess than not enough otherwise you risk health issues in your...

How long is your photoperiod? Less light should help. Diatoms are down to too much light and not phosphates. Otos absolutely rock at diatom control. When I have diatoms in a new or existing aquarium in go the oto's. Those tanks with oto's are diatom free.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Fixed. :shh:

Any algae left on any plant will grow. You have to remove it all or as close as you can. If you can't remove it all, spot dosing with easycarbo will help finish it off. I wouldn't worry about damaging a plant that is already damaged. If the plant is beyond recovering the next step would be to...

Did you trim back the Hemianthus and removed all infected parts?

Sounds interesting. Any pics? If they're not attached to anything just siphon em out at water changes. As for the cause I'll pass.

I've seen lots of Staghorn I've gotten used to it. I find it tends to crop up after moving plants, disturbing substrate and being slack with maintanence. I once double dosed daily with EC and after a few days it turned reddy pink, I presume the oto's ate it after that.

Staghorn. Your last picture is a great example. http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm With the moving about and substrate disturbance you probably had an ammonia spike. Trim infected leaves and look into filter maintanance. Vaccing the substrate would help. Remember the water change afterwards.

I've been battling this algae too in my low tech nano. I also had plenty of frogbit in there, shrimp love it. Tweaked flow and got my Easycarbo in stock. 1 week later it's a reddy orangey colour. I remove badly infected leaves and algae at water changes. Currently running 7hr photopriod...

For the Glosso, trim it hard to the substrate and replant the trimmings. It'll soon learn to go horizontal.

That shot with the spawn is nice to see and a good sign. :thumbup: I'm suffering the same kind of algae on some creeping jenny stems along with some anubias. I'm tweaking flow to see if it helps so still following this thread to see how yours is dealt with. I'm trimming them and removing...

You seem to have invested a considerable sum in equipment then tightened up the budget on the plants. More plants as already suggested is the way forward. In a similar post I saw 1 member say "your effectively growing algae". If it was me I would go scrape/clean everything up then go with a...