3rd Time Lucky 45p

CooKieS

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I like salvinia natans, no invasive Roots like limnobium, smaller so better looking in nano tanks and easy to grow.

About the lightning, full power but only 6h daily at thé beginning, the twinstar E series aren't overpowered like the S séries, ;)
 

alto

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Cryptocryne wendtii green
Anubias
Bucephalandra
Hygrophila maybe ?
Repens
Java fern
Mini hair grass
Moss or some sort, easiest possible

I was planning to use all tissue culture.tropica 1 2 grow if possible.
TC Bucephalandra can be quite sensitive and more prone to melt than emerse grown pots (and pots from a reputable aquarium nursery tend to be more stable than some sources which transplant plants from elsewhere into pots shortly before sale)
Sometimes Bucephalandra will (completely) melt in new setups so I’d add rare(ie expensive) Buce (or other plants) after tank is well established (3-6 months)

Java fern - as tank is small, choose a smaller variant

Moss - given your set up, choose any of the Tropica 1-2-Grow options (except T barbieri which quickly transitions to a lose amorphous blob unless rigorously controlled (and then any trimmed bits you’ve missed will take up residence e.v.e.r.y.w.h.e.r.e) - best management of this is grown on stones etc that can be easily removed for trimming)
Unless you want instant moss carpet appearance, one pot goes along ways
You can chop moss and jam bits into rock crevices, or sprinkle atop glue-on-wood (Jurijs mit JS style) or layer on wood, wrap with cotton etc line (recent Green Aqua Josh Sim aquarium scape video - the first shorter video, not the long workshop seminar one) ..... a very thin layer of moss that is strictly trimmed during the first weeks produces the moss result you will in ADA style scapes

S repens - read through the article on Tropica website, it’s not uncommon for emerse leaves to disappear slowly (or melt rapidly), just wait for new growth

Eleocharis acicularis 'mini' - this can be quite variable in growth (from slow to fast) so depending where you’re planting it, you could easily add 1-3 pots, unwrap the grass “mat” (as shown by Jurijs mit JS) and pinch into small sections and plant ~1cm apart
Once planted, older growth may obviously yellow and slowly disappear, or plant may continue looking green and just fill, either way it will form a carpet



What’s missing?
The rapid growing stem plant - look at Tropica Auxilary plant list
H siamensis 53B or H zosterfolia or B caroliniana etc

I really like H micrathemoides as a fast growing small leaf stem plant - in my soft tap water it’s a dependable “easy” plant, though I find the 1-2-Grow version much less dependable than the pot

Rotala Vietnam H’ra is another small leaf stem plant that grows very easy in my soft water

Number of pots - much depends on your goals ... I prefer fewer pots and more room for plants to fill in, others want a scape that looks instantly full
 

Deano3

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TC Bucephalandra can be quite sensitive and more prone to melt than emerse grown pots (and pots from a reputable aquarium nursery tend to be more stable than some sources which transplant plants from elsewhere into pots shortly before sale)
Sometimes Bucephalandra will (completely) melt in new setups so I’d add rare(ie expensive) Buce (or other plants) after tank is well established (3-6 months)

Java fern - as tank is small, choose a smaller variant

Moss - given your set up, choose any of the Tropica 1-2-Grow options (except T barbieri which quickly transitions to a lose amorphous blob unless rigorously controlled (and then any trimmed bits you’ve missed will take up residence e.v.e.r.y.w.h.e.r.e) - best management of this is grown on stones etc that can be easily removed for trimming)
Unless you want instant moss carpet appearance, one pot goes along ways
You can chop moss and jam bits into rock crevices, or sprinkle atop glue-on-wood (Jurijs mit JS style) or layer on wood, wrap with cotton etc line (recent Green Aqua Josh Sim aquarium scape video - the first shorter video, not the long workshop seminar one) ..... a very thin layer of moss that is strictly trimmed during the first weeks produces the moss result you will in ADA style scapes

S repens - read through the article on Tropica website, it’s not uncommon for emerse leaves to disappear slowly (or melt rapidly), just wait for new growth

Eleocharis acicularis 'mini' - this can be quite variable in growth (from slow to fast) so depending where you’re planting it, you could easily add 1-3 pots, unwrap the grass “mat” (as shown by Jurijs mit JS) and pinch into small sections and plant ~1cm apart
Once planted, older growth may obviously yellow and slowly disappear, or plant may continue looking green and just fill, either way it will form a carpet



What’s missing?
The rapid growing stem plant - look at Tropica Auxilary plant list
H siamensis 53B or H zosterfolia or B caroliniana etc

I really like H micrathemoides as a fast growing small leaf stem plant - in my soft tap water it’s a dependable “easy” plant, though I find the 1-2-Grow version much less dependable than the pot

Rotala Vietnam H’ra is another small leaf stem plant that grows very easy in my soft water

Number of pots - much depends on your goals ... I prefer fewer pots and more room for plants to fill in, others want a scape that looks instantly full
Wow some great advice there thanks very much, i have head george tall about 53b so will have a look into that, today i will have a look and wright down all the plants and amounts.

I was planning to use sand infront of the rocks and dont want a huge carpet but could plant mini hairgrass in the sand in places and think will need a few small anubias to add plant mass on the rocks alsong with moss and stems at back then floating plants.

You think should work ok and sand will look good ? Also still need to break up some rock and pack in between the rocks so soil doesnt pour out onto the sand.

Thanks for all advise
Dean

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Deano3

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I am working through my plant list and i will list below i have a long lost so want the easiest and fastest growing plants.

I plan to have lights on 80-100% and co2 come on 2 hours before lights on and set at 1-2 bps, i will also be doing 1 squirt of tropica plant food daily.

Plants on my list are below but i would like to remove a few of these as would rather have more of the same plants so recomendations would be great.

Hemianthus mucranthemoides
Ratala sp
Bucephalandra (smallest ones ?)
Anubias (smallest ones ?)
Elecocharis mini
Cryptocryne wendtii green
Sp repens
Java fern ( smallest ones ?)
salvinia natans as floating plant
H siamensis 53b

I am still unsure on amounts but i dont have a huge space for panting so dont think will need loads, any help on smallest kinds of the plants would be great and also unsure about what moss to go for ?

And lastly i want a shop i can order all the plants from at same time and hopefully all tropica 1-2 grow as be pest free etc.
Was thinking aquarium gardens

Thanks for all the help and advice so far
Dean


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CooKieS

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Hi there,

I would remove the s.repens which Can be tricky and too big for your tank.

I'll add marsilea crenata mixed to your eleocharis mini into the Sand, easy and nice looking in nano tank.

Anubias petite
Microsorum trident (beware, those grow BIG in 2-3 months, place it in the right corner)
Bucephalandra SP red or green are OK and not so Big
Moss spiky (dark green medium growth) or christmas (light green High growth)

One pot of each plant would be enough for your 45p

Cheers, waiting for the pics of the hardscape ;)
 

Deano3

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8 Feb 2012
Messages
1,987
Hi there,

I would remove the s.repens which Can be tricky and too big for your tank.

I'll add marsilea crenata mixed to your eleocharis mini into the Sand, easy and nice looking in nano tank.

Anubias petite
Microsorum trident (beware, those grow BIG in 2-3 months, place it in the right corner)
Bucephalandra SP red or green are OK and not so Big
Moss spiky (dark green medium growth) or christmas (light green High growth)

One pot of each plant would be enough for your 45p

Cheers, waiting for the pics of the hardscape ;)
Yet again thanks for all that advice, i will remove the repens as you recomend and add the marsilea crenata and will order one pot of each from aquarium gardens once i finish the hardscape maybe this week.

Looking forwad to this one just hoping its a success and hopefull with your help it will be.

Thanks
Dean

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Deano3

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Hopefully plants be here tomorro, i need to smash up some rock to wedge inbeetween the rocks etc so sibstrate doesnt come through and then plant,i will start with few peices of grass around rocks then do the stems.

i will put anubias and buce into the cracks in the rock and not plant the rhizomw.

But everything else will go in soil and put moss on the wood and rocks.

I will have to weight down the wood as not pre soaked then i will add sand last.also going to plant dry apart from odd spray.

I am thinking lights on for 5 hours day at 80 percent and usually co2 on 2 hours before lights and off 1 hour before lights off yes ?

I will dose 1 squirt of tropica a day or would that be too much?

Thanks dean



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Deano3

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Another thing is in the first week when doing daily 50 percent water changes do you clean the glass and pipes or anything like that or litterally just remove half water and refill ? Then after a week give a more vigorous clean.

And do you just fill buckets to around correct temp then pour in then when aquarium full add the prime ?

I dont actually have a thermometer yet but dont want to see one in tank so will check occasionally and then remove.

Sorry for all questions just want it done right.

Dean

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Jayefc1

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Personally i wipe every thing down with some kitchen roll try to get as much dirt out i can with each water change i do about 75% water in a new tank daily for the first week and the every other day for the next 2 weeks there will be a lot of organic waste in there and a 45p is harder IMO cause there is not as much room for error with it being smaller i wouldnt put the buce in either till tue tank has setteled very prone to melt in new tanks
Cheers
Jay
 

Deano3

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I do 50% weekly on a New tank, with tropica soil, but non ferts until 1-2 months, just liquid carbon daily. ;)
I will do 50 percent daily for first week and give glass a wipe but not get into filter etc, so would you advise no ferts at first ? And also have my co2 but would you put in liquid carbon aswel and just to the recomended dose.

I am very happy with the hardscape, i have had to put rocks ontop of wood for now.

I added lots of smaller crushed rocks aswel.

My only trouble was my intake wouldnt fit on right of tank so tomorro i am adding a smaller intake and will buy a eheim surface skimmer to the tank snd this will also add a bit of flow.added the buce as already purchased so have to.

The co2 is at 1-2 bps and drop checker is still dark green not sure if film on bottom of it so will check but happy with the layout.

Thanks dean
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alto

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As always ;) I’ll suggest trimming back your lovely moss clumps (bonus you can use the trim to start more moss :cool:)

Love the top down view :wideyed:

(confirming your Microsorum is attached to rock or wood? Which variant is it?)
 

Deano3

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As always ;) I’ll suggest trimming back your lovely moss clumps (bonus you can use the trim to start more moss :cool:)

Love the top down view :wideyed:

(confirming your Microsorum is attached to rock or wood? Which variant is it?)
I will do that with the moss only plants i attatched to wood and rocks is anubias and buce and moss everything else is soil.

How whould you advise doing water changes i am juat going ti change 50 percent water then clean glass whilst doing daily then at end of week i will scrub the Rocks etc. And would you not dose whilst in first weeks ?

Also want to change pipes around today as dont like the side there on.

Also i am already thinking about a new filter maybe the oase 250 as this filter is a mess on trying to get ot filled after a water change however i did move pipes round so more than likely be easier tomorro. But the 250 has the pre filter and primer.


Bit concerned as my drop checker dark after 2 hours, i have diffuser in middle infront of the outflow any recomendations ? Only have lights on 30 percent for now u till i can sort it.

Thanks dean

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Last edited:

Deano3

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Currently doing 70 percent water change and cleaning the glass and wafting around the plants but seeing sone deficiencys in plants ordered a oase thermo 250 and inline diffuser so hopefully that improves the flow etc.

Yellowing on surface plants and pulled a few leaves from bucephalandra.

Pics below, i am dosing tropica every other day 1 squirt.
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Deano3

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Little update.

I am now back at work so did a quick water change and glass clean after work, should i be doing much else ?

I am dosing tropica every other day and when i am off friday i will fit the oase 250 and inline diffuser.

Lights are still on 30 percent from 12-5 but i am seeing some plant deficiencys any ideas ? Lights too low maybe ? Having bba and few black spots on leaves but seeing no growth like last time i had my 60p.

I am going to siphon all the sand out as looks a mess and put jist tropica soil in and plant more anubias and hair grass and also get rid of floating plants as yellowing

Any help would be amazing.
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CooKieS

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DONT PANIC! :D

Your plants just need time to adapt, it can't be any deficiency problem at this early stage.

Just give them light (80-100% is OK but no more than 6 hours daily)
CO2 needs to be perfect, light green drop checker when light is ON :pompus:
Ferts aren't needed yet as you got plant soil, just dose K, and eventually liquid carbon to kill algae spores in the water column. ;)

Continue the weekly WC and wait at least 2-3 weeks to see how the new growth look.:cool:
 

Deano3

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DONT PANIC! :D

Your plants just need time to adapt, it can't be any deficiency problem at this early stage.

Just give them light (80-100% is OK but no more than 6 hours daily)
CO2 needs to be perfect, light green drop checker when light is ON :pompus:
Ferts aren't needed yet as you got plant soil, just dose K, and eventually liquid carbon to kill algae spores in the water column. ;)

Continue the weekly WC and wait at least 2-3 weeks to see how the new growth look.:cool:
i know i am not very patient at all. I am off for 4 days from friday so will get new filter on and co2 sorted hopefully and plant some more hair grass and rano the lights up to 80 percent for 6 hours.

Thanks for the encouragement mate i need it and appreciate it .

I will keep lights at 30 percent for next 2 days while working but will do water cha ge after work.

I will try do a more thorough clean of tank tomorro by cleaning the rocks etc, also thinkong of taking the wood out for easier access and once stems grow will look good. But no rush.

Thanks dean



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Jayefc1

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Just be patient the yellowing of leaves is most lightly to.be the transission stage whack your co2 up get the drop checker yellow the plants are going from 400ppm to 30ppm so.whilst you have no live stock give them as much co2 as you can keep.up the water changes and cleaning its so early in the cycle dont panick just try one thing at a time dont change everything you wont know whats working and whats not
Cheers
Jay
 

alto

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am going to siphon all the sand out as looks a mess and put jist tropica soil in and plant more anubias and hair grass and also get rid of floating plants as yellowing
I’ve no patience with sand so always end up ditching it
BUT
you did a nice job with your scape, so if you like the sand area, just be patient

Give the plants (and aquarium “cycle”) time to establish, you can easily siphon out “ugly” sand and replace it (that’s the trick of those amazing online scapes ;)) occasionally - depending on specific tank, sometimes sand will look “clean” for ages (once tank is established)

I’m not a fan of limited light intensity when starting up new scapes - most plants comes from relatively high light emerse or submerse nursery conditions - so I just make sure CO2 is available, ramp light over 15-30min, then run LED at 75-100% (depending on light and aquarium dimensions) for ~4-5 hours, ramp down etc

(I’ve a kitchen counter 30C with light ~10h, half of that at low light levels just so I can enjoy the tank through the evening, CO2 is a Tropica Nano kit that runs maybe 1 bubble per 2 sec, 24/7 (it’s just easier), Eheim mini up filter, plants include an MC carpet, Eriocaulon cinereum, H verticillata, Tropica AS Powder and at 3months I’ve yet to add any fertilizers ... growth is slow, steady, no visible algae, though I’m seeing some recent leaf breakdown so should be fertilizing, tap water is soft
This method isn’t typical of my other tanks (except for the lazy aquarist aspect) ... I suppose I’m just mentioning it here as an example of finding what works for you/your tank
No drop checker so I’ve no idea what the CO2 level might be, filter is set to maintain some surface ripple)

As others mention, any rapid onset yellowing/melting of plants, is really about the plants you received, rather than your care (unless you’re running the tank at 28*C and more) - and is a normal part of transitioning to emerse growth
What you do want to see, is new leaf growth

You mention removing the wood for access - not sure why you’re considering this, it’s easy to siphon around hardscape by using a small tube (I’ve a Python Siphon Mini - though the hose dimension is maybe 1cm not the 1inch mentioned in the link), when I refill the tank, I run the water through an Eheim filter inlet to disperse the spray and then direct it towards any areas I can’t otherwise reach ... if a load of debris comes up, then I’ll redrain/refill tank again (with a daily water change this is unlikely but as I’m slightly lazy it’s more likely been a week - or weekS :oops:)

If you don’t have any yet, pick up some Clithon corona snails (Jurijs mit JS, Green Aqua both mention these small Nerite type snails) as they are excellent clean up crew
 
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