7x flow be enough or do I need to upgrade?

[bjorn]

I'm preparing for a new 170L braceless tank (36x18x18) and already sorted out a new filter I want to use with a ADA or Cal Aqua lily pipe and intake:

Eheim 2173 Professional 3

I went for this model because I liked the idea with integrated Thermal / Heater. However it has only a flow of 1050 L/H, which works out at 7x the tank volume (1050/150 = 7, took off 20% for the Sand, stones etc). The rule everyone seems to be going by is 10x the volume of water to get a good flow going.

I'm now worried that the new filter isn't strong enough and that the tank won't have a good flow. But the next step up would be a Eheim 2180 (1200XLT) filter which has two intakes, a flow rate of 1700 and the manufactures says this is for 400-1200L tanks.. So it sounds a bit excessive (and much more expensive) to me that I would use such a big filter on a relatively small tank that's only 170L.

Should I consider upgrading to such a big filter just to achieve 10x+ ratio?

 

[Nelson]

you could just get a koralia.

 

[ceg4048]

I went for this model because I liked the idea with integrated Thermal / Heater. However it has only a flow of 1050 L/H, which works out at 7x the tank volume (1050/150 = 7, took off 20% for the Sand, stones etc). The rule everyone seems to be going by is 10x the volume of water to get a good flow going.

No this is not correct. The 10X rule of thumb is 10X(tank volume), NOT 10X(water volume).

A 170L tank ideally get 1700 LPH so you have a 40% shortfall. You might be able to improve the flow throughput by reducing the amount of filter media.

Cheers,

 

[bjorn]

Ok, so what you are saying is that I should consider upgrading as it's not enough (1050/170 = 6.17)? Or get a extra pump.

 

[chrisfraser05]

having read up on this and spoken to alot of others I have got 22x flow for my 300lt tank.
Will be setting this up in the next week or so and will find out if it is right.

I am running 1700 flow in my 80lt at the mo and it is by no means too much I can assure you.

I would look at adding the likes of a koraila to yours to boost the flow

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
I'd stick with the Eheim classic 2217, they are great filters (as long as you remember Clive post that all external filters are basically "a pump in a bucket"), you can get all the bits for them, Eheim have made them for that last 20 years etc.

If you can separate the idea of flow from filter, this is vastly more biological filtration than you will need, and if you want more flow you can add a powerhead (like the Koralia suggested).

cheers Darrel

 

[chrisfraser05]

thats a very good point. Flow and filteration need to be considdered seperately.

The filter you have has a large enough turnover and media capacity to be adequate for the tank unless you overstock the tank massively.
The flow 1050 from your filter should be considdered as part of your overall flow however you need to increase the total flow amount and also ensure the entire tank receives this flow, without leaving dead areas. Any dead areas will be a target spot for algea.

How about a maxi jet 900? They are cheap, compact, quiet and the 900 will bring your overall flow up to just under 12x flow (around 10 times with media/pipework losses).
I swear by the maxijet tbh

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

How about a maxi jet 900? They are cheap, compact, quiet and the 900 will bring your overall flow up to just under 12x flow (around 10 times with media/pipework losses). I swear by the maxijet tbh

I'd agree with Chris about the Maxijets. I own quite a few of them (I use them for the "spare" sponge filter in every tank), and they are very reliable powerheads.

cheers Darrel

 

[bjorn]

Thanks. I'm starting to understand. The problem with the maxijet or koralia is that I want to use the least amount of hardware inside the tank and keep it as clear as possible.

Ok, so the filtration is fine with the 2173 filter.. but the flow is not enough. Is this the flow in terms of CO2 distribution or something else as well?

I'm going to use inline diffuser on the outlet from the filter so that CO2 should get mixed up on it's way out, maybe this will require less of a flow than a diffuser that sit's inside the tank?

 

[chrisfraser05]

I too have the same idea of keeping all the equipment out of the tank.

The way round I have gone for is using 2 black power heads in the top corners of the tank with a black background.
Basically what isn't out of the tank is camoflaged.

The two I've got for the back corners are 2800lt hr each and add to the flow of the 1200 filter which comes out of the spray bar (almost full tank length) causing the flow to go forward against the glass and down at the front.
The CO2 is dealt with by an inline diffusor (similar to the aquamedic 1000) so fully disolved.

The high flow not only ensures CO2 and ferts reach everywehre but also alow suspended particles of waste remain in the water column longer maximising the chances of them being drawn into the canister and removed from the tank.

Although a small buildup of detrious isn't nescicarrily a bad thing reducing it this way ensures better all round water quality

 

[ceg4048]

Hi,
Unless you are space limited, why not go for the 2180 thermofilter? That unit is rated at 1700LPH but unfortunately, is a monstrosity at Height 567mm X Width 330mm X Depth 330mm. This solves the problem of flow rating, heater and minimalist equipment. Another option is the Fluval FX5 rated at 2300 LPH, but is not a thermofilter.

The flow throughput and distribution affects both your ability to saturate the water efficiently with CO2 as well as to saturate the water with nutrients and to deliver it to the plant beds. More details in the thread High water turnover - discuss

As Darrel mentions, if you can find one of the Classic models with this level of turnover then this will do just as well - for much cheaper...

Cheers,

 

[bjorn]

Thanks, will probably do a bit of both. I did order a Aquamedic 1000 so intend to disolve the CO2 that way and will probably get one or two power heads too.