90x45x45 medium tech :)

GlenD

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Another question is how am I going to attach ferns and anubias etc.. to the rocks? I can't take them out... I can't get around the rocks with cotton, and the tank is filled (although I can drain it)???
 

Kalum

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Best option is to find any crevices to lodge them in, 2nd option would be to glue (after draining obviously)

What sort of look are you wanting with regards to planting? Might be easier for people to make suggestions if we know what you do or don't like and what picture you have in your head
 

Kalum

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Most of what you see in that are epiphytes such as Java Fern based (normal, narrow leaf and trident), anubias and bucephalandra and are not actually 'planted' in the substrate, there are a few to the sides and back of the picture which are planted

Various Cryptocoryne might be worth looking into for a similar look which you can plant in the substrate and are easy to grow/look after, various hygrophilia are also in the easy category and it would definitely be worth adding a few faster growing stems if it fits what you want
 

tam

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Another question is how am I going to attach ferns and anubias etc.. to the rocks? I can't take them out... I can't get around the rocks with cotton, and the tank is filled (although I can drain it)???
Draining it and using superglue would be the easiest option - some plants you'll be able to wedge where you want and some will plant in the substrate - but if you want plants along the wood it will need gluing or tying. With moss tying may be easier - but javafern/anubias etc. gluing is.
 

GlenD

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Yes I think my plant list is

Foreground
  • Aanubias
  • Bucephalandra
  • Cryptocoryne types?
Mid-ground
  • Java Fern - trident
  • Bucephalandra
  • Cryptocoryne - types?
Background
  • Hygrophilia Salicifolia
  • Vallisneria
I've also got 1 x large amazon sword and a small amount of twisted vallisneria sitting in my current community tank that I need to do something with.
 

Jayefc1

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If you do decide to use super glue make sure you buy the gel type as the runny one makes a mess the gel will stay where you put it I know it sounds obvious
 

rubadudbdub

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superglue... runny one makes a mess
Superglue also leaves white spots on whatever its put on wood, rocks etc that stays visible for ages. So if you use it dab the spot somewhere you can't see it if possible.

Not used the gel, so no idea if this is any better in this respect.
 

GlenD

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The plants have been ordered and should be going in this Friday :)..

2 x Bucephalandra
3 x Anubias (small type)
3 x Microsorum Trident
2 x Portion of moss
3 x Hygrophilia i.e. Salicifolia
4 x Cryptocoryne
1 x Amazon Sword
2 x ECHINODORUS QUADRICOSTATUS - Dwarf Amazon Sword
1 x Valis
Loads of Amazon Frogbit
 

GlenD

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Hi guys, also couple of questions regarding lighting.

The AI Prime is 8-10" above the water, what intensity / wattage should I be starting at? Also, what lighting period? Currently I have a 6hr cycle with a 1/2 hour ramp up/down after/before, given 7hr total.
 

Siege

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Hi glen,

AI Prime are good lights but I’m unsure, simply because you have 1 light when they are designed to be overlapped.
The intensity in the centre is going to be massive to get strength at the edge.

Bearing in mind your tank is newly planted I’d be included to go at something like 60% (random figure, try it and see what you think).

At the same time bang the co2 right up to help the plants get adjusted to being submersed :thumbup:
 

alto

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Just to confound ;)

The AI Prime is similar to Kessil A160 in PAR (slightly under but the new HD version should be slightly higher I’d guess) - Filipe Oliveira has used these on many scapes so I’d check his video details, maybe post the question on his FB

With this cluster matrix design, as you reduce intensity, you also significantly reduce the “spread” of the light fall
(this will occur with other LED designs as well but is less noticeable on an array) so while you’re trying not to blast the area directly under the Prime, you’re going to be increasing the shade effect at the edges
For this reason, I always run my single A160 Kessil (60 x 45 cm tank footprint) at 100% (after the “ramp”) and just decrease photoperiod when establishing the tank
eg, 30 min ramp 4-5h 100%, 30 min ramp
Then for extended viewing, I just swivel the light so it’s behind the tank (left or right corner) and only “moonlight” falls on the tank (ie light is dimmed to lowest setting)

I have minimal algae in my setups so this seems a reasonable method :p

If concerned, you can always just “corral” the frogbit directly beneath the Prime

If you were using 2 x AI Prime, then I’d begin with reduced intensity
 

alto

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Fantastic Island :cool:

Depending on the growth rate of that Hygrophila sp, I’d add in H zosterfolia 1-2-Grow for rapid initial growth (just one in vitro cup is loads)
I’d also add Otocinclus fairly early on - if you’re planning on having any?
 

GlenD

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One week update

Or is it two week update? Anyway six x nerite snails, six x Amano shrimp and six x red cherries are in. Got some moss and just did a 75% water change.

Today, I also made some temporary acrylic covers for the tank. As my snails have been found in the living room three times now!

Also got this algae on the rockwork at the front, what is this and what should I do?
 

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Siege

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Hi glen.

I was expecting to see brown diatom algae but looks like blue green algae.

Have you got any surface movement? I’ve found it loves low oxygen environments.

Adding a nice surface ripple along with ensuring flow around the area will help. Blasting the substrate with a turkey baster and syphoning it off at water change should do it.
 

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