I would not be surpriced if both ends of the bended top tube are different lenght to use it above multiple tank models..(though I suspect it’s the arm for a 60P rather than the 75P)
Yeh some you can feel and some you cant, polishing should improve either and lessen the impact of the worst even if not removing completely, I used to do a lot of car detailing and machine polishing in my spare time so fairly well versed in polishing with paint but limited when it comes to glass, key will be making sure the compound is worked correctly and it's kept cool and all should be golden....I would not be surpriced if both ends of the bended top tube are different lenght to use it above multiple tank models..
If you can feel the scratches with a finger nail, than polishing is not going to work..
The back is a lot better and potentially what I'll end up doing, but the sides are also like this, anything I can improve even slightly will be a bonus so will see in the next week or 2Very nice find is the back glass scratched if not so bad you could turn it round
Thanks Marcel you've confirmed my worry. That could be a deal breaker for me so might have to be replaced with something elseI believe HS - High pressure sodium or Hl(D) High Intensity Discharge can not be dimmed. Because the extra power peak it needs to start up is given by the ballast, that's why it needs that ballast and cannot be connected directly to the mains.
Thus a dimmer in front of the ballast can not work because you ne underpowering the balast. A dimmer behind the balast wil eliminate the power peak. The light can not switch on..
At least thats what i assume, the balast specs say its for HS and HI(D) lamps, then one of 2 likely is on you hood..
It can be but if it's to be used as my main tank as intended then it will be right next to my TV in the livingroom and a dimmer towards the end of the night is key, plus the higher the light the wider it will spread. During the summer is fine with the bright evenings but winter would be a pain. I know i could alter the photo period according to daylight hours but for me being able to enjoy the tank when i'm home in the evening is a mustI'm guessing the height of the light can be adjusted in lieu of a dimmer to similar effect.
Impressed with the archive section of your brain Marcel I spoke to one of my close friends who is a spark and this is how it went:What you need to look out for is a Dimmable ballast.. This is 1-10 volt dim port on the ballast, maybe they come nowadays also with a PWM dimport. But that i do not know.. Automated dimming with 1-10 volt dim port is a bit out of fasion.. I only know of one that ever made an electronic 1-10 volt automated dim puter for dimming Tube ballasts. But he stopt making them when LED and PWM became to popular..
Anyway with a dimmable ballast its possible.. The power peak commes from a capacitor build into the ballast, that only charges and discharges at startup with a high peak, than the balast takes over to feed the lamp.
Got a Flashback, it was the Flora Mate 1-10 volt Tube light ballast programmable dimmer...No longer in production.. Maybe still to be found as used product on Ebay. It was a mighty popular dimmer back in the 1990's in the vivarium hobby..
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